Introduction: FPV Rover V2.0
This is the second version of the FPV-Rover.
As the name mentions, this is constructed to be used as FPV (First Person View) and has cut out on the front and rear for a camera.
All needed parts fit in the rover perfectly, so you have a clean finish and nothing lose.
The first FPV-Rover was a great success and there were a lot of people building the it.
As the motors were not that powerful, some asked for a version with standard 540 motor. And here it is.
For this, the whole rover had to be redesigned and some things I did not like on the first one were improved.
Step 1: Parts to Print
Find all parts you need on Thingiverse
I printed the rover in PETG and the tank track in PLA. PLA will work as well for the rover. The bevel gears were printed in PLA and the second one in Taulman Nylon. So far I see no problems with PLA.
for the rubber tracks I used Ninjaflex and glued them to the tracks with CA glue.
2x main cog front
2x main cog rear (needs support)
8x small cog
1x body (needs support)
2x outer frame
2x big bevel gear
2x small bevel gear (I recommend strong filament like Nylon)
2x motor mounting bracket
2x ESC mount
1x inner frame left
1x inner frame right
1x front cover (needs support)
1x rear cover
64x tank track
64x rubber track for tank track
Step 2: Parts You Need (BOM)
Here is the list with all necessary parts for the rover
Remark to the front camera:
You can use the IR-Cam as regular cam. It works perfectly. If you want to use the IR-mode, you'll need the two-channel-switch for this. In addition a IR-LED would be good. Otherwise the camera cannot work in completely darkness
2x 540 motor (I recommend 27T)
2x heatsink with fan (fan will be unmounted and used to cool the whole track system)
8x bearings 6802zz (24x15x5) (for main cogs)
16x bearings 688zz (16x8x5) (for small cogs)
2x ESC 160A 3S
1x two-channel-switch (to use the IR mode of the camera)
1x rear Camera
1x camera switch (only needed of front and rear camera will be used)
1x servo (for the tilt mechanism for camera and LED)
24x magnets (4x2) (front and rear cover are hold in place by magnets)
2x 2S 2200mAh lipo (You can use any 2S lipo with maximum dimension of 109mm x 22mm x 38mm)
Screws and nuts
128x M3 x 14mm cap head screws (to mount the tank tracks together)
8x M3x8mm Phillips countersunk screws (motor mounting bracken and ESC to frame)
6x M3x10 button head screw (to mount the motor to the motor mounting bracket and the big bevel gear to the rear main cog)
16x M3 nuts
12x M3x50mm cap head screws (to mount everything together)
2x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)
2x M2 nuts (to mount the small bevel gear to the motor shaft)
4x M2x6mm cap head screw (to mount the front camera)
CA glue, hot glue gun, screw driver, some cable, soldering station
Step 3: Prepare Motor
Add two nuts into the holes in the mounting brackets.
Attach the motor to the motor mounting bracket by using the M3x10mm button head screws.
Add one M2 nut in each small bevel cog and push it onto the motor shaft. You can screw the M2x6mm screw into the hole, but do not secure the bevel gear right now. It has do be adjusted afterwards.
Unscrew the heatsink from the fan (that will be used later) and attach it to the motor.
Step 4: Prepare Main Cogs and Small Cogs
You need 2 front main cogs, 2 rear main cogs and 8 small cogs.
For the main cogs you need 8 bearings (24x15x5) and for the small cogs 16 bearings (16x8x5). Insert one bearing on each side of the main cogs. The small cogs need two bearings each.
Step 5: Assemble Left and Right Track Frame
Place the cogs into the outer frame.
To mount the fan into the inner frame, use the M3x12mm screws which were in the cooling set. It is sufficient so use 2 screws. Take care of the direction. The fan has to push air into the rover.
As the fans are for 5v, you can solder them to the cable leading to the receiver. The ESC have an integrated BEC for 5v and that fits perfectly.
Both ESC have an on/off switch. You can leave the switch on the ESC and glue them with the hot glue gun into the frame. I unsoldered the switch and connected the two pins. That means, that the ESC are always on, as soon as you pug in a battery.
When you do this, put some hot glue on the pins, so that the ESC is waterproof again.
I put some thick double side tape on the ESC to stay on the frame. Secure the ESC with the bracket and 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.
Connect the motor to the ESC and place it into the frame. Mount the motor to the frame with 2 M3 x 8mm Phillips countersunk screws.
Pace the inner frame with all components on the outer frame with the cogs. Screw the big bevel gear on the rear main cog with a M3 x 10mm button head screw.
Now you can adjust the small bevel gear on the motor shaft and secure it with the M2 x 5mm screw.
Step 6: Prepare Main Body
Nuts and magnets
Insert 12x M3 nuts into the right places. These will secure the outer frames with the main body.
Insert 10x 4mm x 2mm magnets into the right holes. These will secure the front and back cover. both will only be hold in place by the magnets and are strong enough.
For the tilt mechanism for the LED and the camera, you need a 5g servo. Both, LED and camera will be controlled by only one servo. cut off one side (see image), so that it fits into the position. Use a hot glue gun to glue the servo to the body. Before doing this, find the center position and attach the servo horn.
Camera, LED and switch
The front camera and LED light do have a frame to be attached. For the front camera you need 4x M2 x 6mm screws.
At the moment, the IR-Mode does not work, because I'm waiting for a switch to turn this on and off. Therefore the LED does not to be powered up. We will install it anyway.
Place the FPV-switch to the right side of the front camera. There should be enough space. Glue it down with hot glue.
First insert the LED mount into the hole in there body. Put the camera mount left bracket on the other side of the LED mount. Secure the bracket with hot glue to the body.
Assemble the camera holder with the camera to the left bracket. Push the right camera mount bracket onto the other side of the camera holder and secure it with hot glue to the body
For the tilt-mechanism you need a 0.8mm rod. The camera needs about 45mm length, the LED about 69mm.
Step 7: Prepare the Top Cover
For the top you need, additional to the printed parts, one 40mm fan, one FPV-antenna and 4x 4mm x 2mm magnets.
The two L-shaped parts needs to be glued to the back of the top part.
The front lock consists of two parts each side. Glue the magnets into the prepared holes. Punt the L-shaped part into the hole of the other, so that the magnets hold both parts together. Now you can glue it to the top part.
Use a hot glue gun to attach the fan and the FPV-antenna to the top.
Now you can glue the bracket that holds the FPV-transmitter to the top part.
Step 8: Assemble Main Body
You need 4mm x 2mm magnets for the front cover, rear cover and tow-bar plugs. Glue them into the right place using CA glue.
To attach the outer frames to the main body, us M3 x 50mm cap head screws.
Step 9: Assemble the Two Tank Tracks
Each tank track needs 32 tracks and 64 M3x14mm cap head screws. I recommend printing the rubber tracks as well. I just did this for every second track.
You can glue the rubber tracks with CA glue to the tracks.
Step 10: Done
If you are using a Taranis, you can start with my settings.
Camera tilt: left stick (throttle)
Throttle / Steering: right stick
FPV-Switch: Switch A
Expo: Switch D
- down: no expo
- middle: full throttle, 50% steering
- up: 50% throttle, 40% steering
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.
I can't ignore the fact that the body is the exact same shape of a video game console. Hint hint.
I'm new to RC (I always just program), so I have no idea how to control this thing. What do you use to control the (super cute) bot and (more importantly) see though his little eyes? Also, would it be possible to add I/O pins in him?
Hi, to control this I use a regular remote control (in my case the Taranis X9Dplus https://goo.gl/npDwJa).
The FPV parts can be found on the BOM (camera, transmitter...)
Depending on the things you want to use, you can add different components to the rover. For the first rover I built a rubber gun that can be used for V2.0 as well (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1269962), that needs two additional channels. My transmitter has 8 channels. You need 2 for driving and one for the tilt-mechanism. that would mean, that you could add 5 more things.
In one of the last images you can see the space between the batteries. You can use that for additional electronics.
Here is a cool thing somebody did https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979227
THANK YOU! I looked at the controller and it just has a low res LCD. How do I veiw the video?
This looks awesome! Nice work. Which 3D printer did you use? I'm finally looking to purchase one and I have this type of work in mind.
Hi, I use a Prusa i3 MK2.5
Just wondering what kind of range you get on control and on video? Thanks
Both depends on where you drive.
With my previous Rover I had a Futaba remote control and the range wasn't that good. something about 60m-80m.
With this V2.0 I use a Taranis. As this just finished this week, I couldn't test the range so far. Video should be a little bit more, if you don't have any obstacles between you and the rover.