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14Instructables78,842Views105CommentsMilwaukeeJoined December 29th, 2015
Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting my on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech

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  • Core3D commented on jcbuchli's instructable Cedar Strip Kayak7 hours ago
    Cedar Strip Kayak

    Stunning. That is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship and your instructions are great too. Makes me wanna make one

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c1 day ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    3D printed parts now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Printed Parts now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

    3D printed parts now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

    Now available on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/263704820777

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thx, unless I connect OctoPrint (on a Raspberry Pi) to the printer, I really don't connect to it. The printer reads the gcode from either an SD card (that is inserted in the LCD unit), or I upload it to my OctoPrint server.For slicing the models I use either Slir3r (1.3.0 Dev) or Cura 2.7.0 which are both free slicers.For any code updates to the firmware I use the Arduino IDE.

    People like the look and It's more compact than traditional printers. This was actually a challenge to me to get it to work good with a 200x200 bed. Most commercial Cantilevers are limited to a 120x120mm bed.

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  • Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c's weekly stats: 3 days ago
    • 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c
      27,767 views
      268 favorites
      48 comments
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c5 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Sorry to hear that. There is a huge ANET following so they may some answers. There a trick to tightening the hot-end. It needs to tighten itself against the throat tube and not the block itself As for quiting at the middle of a print that may indicate overheating of the steppers. That however could be for a million of reasons. I personally have never bought a 3D printer s as I get more fun out of designing them myself. There's gotta be something out there on the ANET. Like you said, they have a huge followingGood luck.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c6 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    The instructions for the laminated printer can be found here https://www.instructables.com/id/Laminated-Prusa-I...Somebody else noticed that one and is offering all the laser cut pieces via Thingibox http://store.thingibox.com/en/laser/400-3mm_lamina...

    Thank you!! Come back soon and see the entire assembly (down to the last screw) animated in Fusion 360.

    Well, then you are in the right place. In the next couple of days I'm going to figure out how to best offer the 3D printed parts and at what price. It will probably be through eBay. I will provide a link as soon as I get that up. As for Fusion 360, this printer was designed using Fusion 360. If you're interested, you can check out my GrabCad account at https://grabcad.com/core3d.tech-1 You'll find some of the Fusion 360 models associated with this printer. the best way to keep informed is to follow me on twitter @Core3D_tech I will tweet when I have figured out the logistics.

    Je vous en prie, merci beaucoup

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you.In all honesty I'm not a big believer in the dual extruder. There's too many downsides to having to nozzles exactly at the same height. I'm looking forward to the development (and already available upgrade) by Prusa https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/185-m...The other limitation with this printer would be the exact linear rail length to bed ratio. There is no wiggle room beyond each corner of the bed. adding another nozzle would seriously cut into the print volume on the X-axis.Not sure how you would measure accuracy and precision. It prints pretty awesome prints but never forget this a cantilever printer. It is much more susceptible to vibration than a fully caged printer.

    My bad. Thanks for pointing that out. I've just added them.

    If this is because of imperial/metric, consider 2525. It's off by only 0.4mm (probably within margin of error). Like I said, the rails are available in 2020 but you'll have to "extract the power and electronics" from the core (and add some more 2020 with corner brackets

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    my motors are noisy as hell in spreadcycle too. Have you tried the bug fix release. With the original 1.1.8 I was loosing steps all over the place. replacing it with the bug fix release fixed all my problems

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    I had trouble with the original Marlin 1.1.8 and was instructed to download the bug_fix release. It solved my issues https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...Also are you running in stealthchop or spreadcycle mode?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c9 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you. The good news is that both the Z-axis implementation and Linear actuators used for this implementation have versions for 2020 (2040 for Z-axis). You can check out each of the instructables. (the Z-Axis currently only has has 2020 for 8mm rods)https://www.instructables.com/id/Linear-Screw-Doub...https://www.instructables.com/id/Generic-Linear-Ac...The bad news is that this printer is not easily retrofitted and here's why:-The entire frame wraps around the universal power unit which has the EXACT height of the 1020 frame. Going with 2040 for the back part of the frame would make the entire frame "float".-There is literally 2mm space between the bed carriage and electronics case (which, alredy is about as compact as it gets). Going with 2020 would lower the bed assembl...

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    Thank you. The good news is that both the Z-axis implementation and Linear actuators used for this implementation have versions for 2020 (2040 for Z-axis). You can check out each of the instructables. (the Z-Axis currently only has has 2020 for 8mm rods)https://www.instructables.com/id/Linear-Screw-Doub...https://www.instructables.com/id/Generic-Linear-Ac...The bad news is that this printer is not easily retrofitted and here's why:-The entire frame wraps around the universal power unit which has the EXACT height of the 1020 frame. Going with 2040 for the back part of the frame would make the entire frame "float".-There is literally 2mm space between the bed carriage and electronics case (which, alredy is about as compact as it gets). Going with 2020 would lower the bed assembly but 5.4mm, where there is no room to go. There's also the unknown of stability. I kind set out to prove you can build a cantilever with a 200x200 bed (most commercial cantilever has 120x120 bed). I get very stable prints but one might argue that even with 1010 I'm pushing the limits (I had to replace 8mm rods with 12mm rods in the Z-axis as 8mm offered absolutely no stability). I don't know the difference in stability between 1010 and 2020. In a normal arching design this wouldn't matter much, with cantilever it may mean the difference between succeed and fail.If you don't mind separating the power unit and electronics from the core of the printer (which was kind of the premise of this design), almost all pieces are in place to build this using 2020/2040 T-Slot.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c9 days ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you. I appreciate that. This is my fourth printer and I learn new stuff every time. Good luck with your new build. Feel free to reach out with questions.

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  • Core3D followed badarsworkshop9 days ago
      • Bench Power Supply
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      • Outdoor Pizza Oven
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller16 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    You are correct I screwed that up. Replacing the image. A3 however equals pin 57

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller17 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Sharp observers have found the servo pins missing from this KFB2.0 board. Odd they did that. Should you wish to add a servo actuated auto level probe, here is what you can do: use pin 57 as signal for the servo and use gnd, vcc adjacent (see image).in the pins_RAMPS.h file, replace//// Servos//#ifdef IS_RAMPS_13#define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI#else#define SERVO0_PIN 11#endifat the top with:#DEFINE SERVO0_PIN 57after that uncomment/*** Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.|*/#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller17 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I'm asking around, but would any of the Max X, Y Z connectors not do the trick? Redirect Pin 2 from X_MAX_PIN (pins_RAMPS.h) to whatever servo pin your probe would use?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 weeks ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    If you wish to use the TMC2130 Stepper drivers check out https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers/ The wiring for this on the KFB2.0 will look something like this:

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Glad to hear. Enjoy the quiet

    For KFB2.0 with TMC2130 consider the following setup (take note of pins assignment in pins_RAMPS.h

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    before I try to answer that one. Did you have a working LCD on your RAMPS prior to this upgrade or is this a build from scratch

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 weeks ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Please read this reply in conjunction with the instructable on upgrading RAMPS 1.4 to TMC2130 https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-1...I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning in the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration.Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did workThe layout of the ISP on KFB2.0 is the same as the black and white image. going by the wires (and colors) defined in the TMC2130 inst...

    see more »

    Please read this reply in conjunction with the instructable on upgrading RAMPS 1.4 to TMC2130 https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-1...I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning in the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration.Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did workThe layout of the ISP on KFB2.0 is the same as the black and white image. going by the wires (and colors) defined in the TMC2130 instructable. Black to 1/MISOBlue to 1/SCKGreen to 2/MOSISoftware setup remains the same as the RAMPS TMC2130 setupHope this helps

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    very clean. That's a great solution

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller7 weeks ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Thanks. Clever to take the plastic hoods off. I crimp all my own wires and I go like the fact that they "click" in place but this certainly works.

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  • Bergen Makerspace Transportable 3D Printer

    Very nice project!

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Hope this helps: https://www.instructables.com/id/Wiring-3D-Printer-RAMPS-14/

    Sure, I wouldn't stop you from doing that. I think this project is something you would do for the fun of the project. Nobody can compete (on price) with the stuff from China. Like I said in a previous reply, make sure you read the reviews, some of them you might want to avoid. For only a couple hundred more than the printer in this instructable, you can buy a real Prusa I3 MK2 kit (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers) . You can't go wrong with that.

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    I think you build a printer like this for the fun of building a printer. If you're just curious or interesting in the printing end of 3D printers you would be better off buying a printer. Read the customer reviews closely on some of these very cheap printers, some of these have a dead on arrival rate that is staggering. What you see on Amazon btw is not a Prusa I3, like my printer this is a Prusa I3 Derivative from China.

    This printer runs on a RAMPS 1.4 with is basically a shield on top of an Arduino Mego. You don't however send STL files to a 3D Printer. You take an STL file and run it though what is called a Slicer first. There are several free versions like Slic3r or Cura. This software is configured to know what your printer looks like (bed size, number of extruders, heated bed, cooling fan, etc). It takes your STL file and turns it into layers (slices) based on your specifications (like layer height, filament temp, bed temp, infill, print speed, etc). It in turn generates G-code that can either be read by your (or this) printer through an SD card that fits into the LCD unit or you can send it via USB.

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    maybe these setting changed:// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.#define INVERT_X_DIR true#define INVERT_Y_DIR false#define INVERT_Z_DIR true

    not sure if this has anything to do with it but it seems you have StallGaurd on Stallguard thrs0000DRVSTATUSXYZE0stallguardXsg_result0102300I don't, and I believe that might be what the diagnosis pin is for.have you enabled sensorless_homing in configuration_adv.h

    Not sure if this matters but I install my marlin installations in completely different folders and rename marlin folder and Marlin.ino\CoreXY\marlin\Marlin-bugfix-1.1.x\MarlinCoreXY_BugFixMarlinCoreXY_BugFix.inoI wonder if one of your marlin installs is trying to use/re-use precompiled stuff from the other version.

    I wasn't getting any errors with 1.1.8 but while printing it would simply start wandering by more then 50mm for the next layer. The steppers also weren't quiet, they sounded the same as before. After the bug_fix all travel went well and they did go quiet.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller2 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Yes, there is. You can add two z- motors parallel but you will be splitting currentsince you'd be using 2 motors for Z you can probably go with the lighter 0.4A (certainly not 2 2.8A steppers)

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    The aux 2 pins are the individual cx, cy, cz and c0 pins (the red wires in the diagram). The pins that go to aux 3 are the ones that are joined together each of the green wires coming from each driver are combined into one (you can't see in photo as the soldered bit is shrink sleeved) and go to Aux 3 D51Each of the black wires coming from each driver are combined into one and go to Aux 3 D50Each of the Blue wires coming from each driver are combined into one and go to Aux 3 D52The photo of the wires show the shrink sleeve wrapper combined wires. I did the automatic install of the TMC2130 drivers which is version 2.1.5. I have not tried any higher versions. I was forced to go with the Bug_fix release. Hope this helps

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    do you know if they're a4988 or drv8825? There really is nothing you have to do for them configuration wize (other than turn off HAVE_TMC2130. make sure you line up the dir and gnd pins on the drivers with the dir and gnd on the board. All you're trying to do is verify is the motors will turn on those.

    Did you use something like pronterface to test the motor? my m122 values are practically the same but when I just try to move 0.1mm the Enabled flips from false to true.Few questions:Did you have another driver, prior to the TMC2130? If so are you using the same stepper wires? i.e. did you have the same stepper motor running prior to upgrading to TMC2130?Are you using the AlieExpress version of the real TMC2130 Drivers?Do you have PINS_DEBUGGING on and if so, what is your M43 output?Do you have a picture of your wiring you can attach?

    sorry my motors are NOT until....

    When you say the motors are energized, what exactly does that mean? My motors are until I actually give a command to move.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Linear Screw Double Rail2 months ago
    Linear Screw Double Rail

    Done, added new stl files (DoubleScrewRail_2040_STL.zip) in the parts step that use a 2040 rail as support and accepts a 2020 cross rail in the slider. I put the LC8UU as close together as possible, still allowing to tighten t-nuts from the back (to support the crossbar).

    I just ordered a few pieces to make sure all fits when I design it.

    I sent you a message. Thx!! I will look into the linear Actuator as well. That one might be a bit more challenging as the timing belt runs inside the groove. Since it is more shallow (6mm compared to the 8mm in current design), creating a working slider might become a tight fit

    The 2020 and 4040 that you have around, does it have the grooves, or is it smooth? Much of the design is currently in the tight clip-on capability into the grooves. I'm currently redesigning this rail for 12mm linear rods and LC12UU block. I was a bit surprised about the flexibility in the 8mm rod. After that I can look into 2020 and 4040. In return would you be willing to return the favor by considering to support me on Patreon.com? https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech ;-)

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    I'm actually run my TMC2130 on RAMPS 1.4 not the KFB but I did try the drivers on my KFB2.0 for a quick test. I kept the pin configuration the same as my RAMPS 1.4 meaning inb the pin_RAMPS.h I changed to DEFINE X_CS_PIN 44DEFINE Y_CS_PIN 64All CS pins are on Aux 2I Also did not use the Aux 3 but instead put the ISP connections to the ICSP pins (next to Aux3). I've attached an image with ISP pins and X_CS connected in that configuration. Also make sure you install the Bugfix_1.1.x.zip https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/archive/b...The main release of 1.1.8 did not work (mostly lost steps) the bugfix release did work

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever

    Ah well, can't argue with Adam Savage ;-) Installing the Octoprint server on an android will be interesting to see. That would make a good instructable by itself

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller2 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I use Auto bed leveling on the KFB2.0. I draw the 12 Volt for the Sensor from the 12V output and the Sensor signal goes to the Z-min Signal pin/GND pin (using the two resistors). https://core3d.tech/2017/09/13/proximity-sensor-detection-lj12a3-4-z-bx-vs-lj12a3-4-zby-wiring/

    This is my current setup for auto bed leveling sensor connection on the KFB 1.0. I used 2K and 1K resistors which seems to work great. Most other documentation recommends 15K and 10K resistors (just didn't have those around)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.42 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    very welcome.

    I will try to put something out today on the KFB2.0.

    As if on demand: https://www.instructables.com/id/Wiring-the-KFB20-3D-Printer-Controller/

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.42 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    Are you looking for instructions on all the wiring for the KFB or for the TMC2130 on the KFB2.0?

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  • Generic Linear Actuator With Built-in Tension Spring

    I had one burn out the other day and replaced it with this one http://amzn.to/2DjgxXq Seems to be working well less than $20. If you're printer is going to be around kids you can go with a brick like this one :http://amzn.to/2Dl8xp6 (not enough amps to heat bed though, I think)

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    I blame the autocorrect ;-)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever

    So the KINGPRINT MKS TFT28 2.8-Inch Full-Color Touch Screen claims it can work on plain RAMPS 1.4 (so theoretically it should work on the KFB 2.0). I did notice an additional power input on that unit so be aware of that.The Bigger LCDs seem to indicate MKS compatibility. Not sure that is what the KFB2.0 is

    You may need an mks board for that. Not sure the 8 but Arduino can handle that. I personally don’t think the touch screen adds value. I operate most my printers with octo print (control via web site or smart phone)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Linear Screw Double Rail2 months ago
    Linear Screw Double Rail

    I can print the parts for you. Check out these two optionsPLA: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263523950415PETG: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263523944028

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Linear Screw Double Rail2 months ago
    Linear Screw Double Rail

    If you have a shapeways account you can upload the STL files (included with this instructable) and order the parts that way. To be honest I just uploaded a single piece and it was $26. That's crazy. I can come up with a better price than that. Shoot me email at admin@core3d.tech

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever

    I use the LCD 12864 Amazon $14.99 for most of my printers which features 128 x 64 dots but you can just as easily do it with a 20 Character x 4 Line LCD (http://amzn.to/2FBTaLC). Each comes with two grey ribbon cables for which most controller boards have the connectors present (see more on this in my wiring instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Wiring-3D-Printer...

    It is very common for the Z-axis to have the linear screw as it carries more weight and only moves in small increments. For this printer I actually had to make some software adjustments to stop the Z-axis from crashing down when done. The X and Y axis generally are belt driven as they move longer distances and at much faster speeds. If you were to drive X and Y with screws your motors would be doing over-time. For a belt it takes (depending number of teeth on the nema) 80 steps for 1mm of movement, with a screw it would take 400 steps for 1mm. Z only moves in 0.1-0.3mm increments (layer height) where as X and Y sometimes travel 200mm in one move.

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  • Core3D followed Core3D2 months ago
      • Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4
      • Fully Functional Drag Chain Fusion 360
      • Linear Screw Double Rail
  • Core3D's instructable Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V's weekly stats: 3 months ago
    • Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V
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  • Core3D's instructable Adding Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer's weekly stats: 3 months ago
    • Adding Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer
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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.43 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    Huh, well fingers crossed

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.43 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    Did you check the last G1 Z.... Prior to dropping the last layer? That one should be top layer (I know it's far fetched)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.43 months ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    huh, I've not seen that before. I remember seeing a video on how Printing from a computer affected print quality due to the fairly "slow" serial baud rate. I've personally have printed a few times from the computer (or from Octoprint) to find my print fail due to Computer crash and Octo print failure. If you read the g-code on the SD card do you see something wrong (like missing the last layer)

    I might do an instructable on this upgrade but in the meantime, I did write it up on my blog https://core3d.tech/2017/06/06/upgrading-the-mk2a-bed-from-12-volt-to-110-volt/

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