Ferrari Build

About: Students at Wichita State University run a program that modifies off-the-shelf ride-on toy cars for kids with disabilities. Our cars feature more technical builds with joysticks and arduinos. We post our ins...

Supplied Needed:

Ferrari F12 Kids 6V Electric Ride On Toy Car w/ Parent Remote Control - Red

Prices vary on, approx $220

1 relay - $1.75

1 Jellybean switch - $65

1 pool kick board - (picture above, does not come with section at bottom hollowed out)

Everbuilt punched flat bar steel - (picture above)

1 kill switch - (picture above)

Perf board for relay

Soldering iron and solder

Bolts - 1/4 inch (exact size doesn't matter, close to this)


Nuts to match the bolts

1/4 inch plywood for tray, approx 20in x 20 in is plenty

1 piece of particle board, approx 16 x 20 inches (just big enough where it's bigger than the kick board)

Normal door hinge

Zip ties

Foam (Nathan, I did not know what to put here for the foam we had)

Fabric to cover seat and supports - 2 yards of fabric needed. Pattern is personal preference.

18 gauge wire

Wire connectors, assorted (picture above)

Wire crimp connectors, circular ends (picture above)

Wire cutter and stripper - approx $8

Step 1: Assemble the Car

The first step is to assemble the car (except the wheels) according to the instructions provided with the car.

It is much easier to proceed with the future steps if the wheels are NOT put on at this time, so assemble the car fully, minus the wheels.

Turn the car on, make sure the motor runs.

Step 2: Wiring

After the car is assembled, remove the seat and access the battery underneath. All wiring modifications will be made now. The first image contains a wire diagram of the car as it comes from the factory. The second image contains a wiring diagram where all the necessary cuts need to be made. Third diagram contains the final wiring diagram with the Jellybean Switch and the relay attached. Remove both plastic undercarriages (in first picture).

All wires will need to be stripped approximately 1 cm at the ends where connections can be made. To do this, put the wire in the wire stripper in the correct hole for the size of wire, squeeze, and slide the tool toward the end of the wire and this will leave a bare end of the wire showing.

1. First add the kill switch. 2 holes need to be drilled, about 1 cm in diameter. This could vary based on your specific kill switch used. one at the back of the car, where you want it to be placed, and one out the back of the battery compartment to run the wires. Cut the red wire above the white clip in the diagram. The wire closer to the clip shall be connected to a red wire, long enough to reach the back of the car, and connected to the OFF side of the switch. Connect a wire to the ON side of the switch, run it back through, and connect it to the cut red wire that goes out of the hole toward the front of the car. These connections will be made with the wire crimp connectors. use the wire stripper and squeeze the crimp once the wire is placed in the hole. Now, with the key in the ignition, the car should be able to turn on and off just using the switch.

2. Add the relay. The pins on the relay need to be poked through the perf board, as shown. Now, it's time to solder. The relay is shown in the 3rd wire diagram, and it has 5 pins. Align your relay in the configuration shown, so the correct wires are connected to the correct pins. The connector used to join the wire coming from the ON side of the kill switch can be screwed off, and add another red wire to this to send to the relay on the pin shown in the figure. The blue and the yellow wires will be pretty long, possibly 3 feet or even longer. Make sure they are long enough to reach from the relay, through the hole toward the front of the car, along the bottom of the car, to the site of the 2 black clips shown in the 8th picture in this section. Unclip those 2 clips, and cut and shim the side with the RED and WHITE wires. Connect the blue to the white, and the yellow to the red. All connections made using the cap connectors.

3. Last, add the Jellybean switch. Cut off the end of the Jellybean wire, and split the 2 components apart where a wire can be added to each. The whole wires do not need to be split, just a few inches on the end. One end of black jellybean wire needs to be attached to the black wire coming out of the battery. This can be split, and another wire, shown as yellow, can be added here to make the connection easier to make. Connect one end of the Jellybean to this yellow wire. The other end of the Jellybean attaches to the relay; the correct pin is shown in the diagram. The picture above with the wires soldered to the relay is how we made the attachments, and the relay and perf board can simply rest in the battery compartment with the rest of the wires. All connections made using the cap connectors. (examples above in pictures)

4. Test the Jellybean. The motor should now run if the Jellybean is pressed down. If it doesn't work, check your connections, make sure all the wires are connected according to the diagram.

5. NOTE if the car ever will not turn on, check the fuse box. We had a fuse blow, and it needed to be replaced at one time during the build.

6. Replace plastic undercarriages when motor runs by Jellybean switch.

Step 3: Seat Modifications

A standard foam pool kick board was added to the seat because the child we modified this car for was too tall for the current seat, as most children will be. This step may only be necessary if the child has a condition where he/she has trouble sitting up.

1. Head supports can be added to the kick board for neck and head support:

2. Set the kick board behind the seat, and measure how high you need the kick board for your specific child. Cut the excess section of the kick board off the bottom.

3. Cut the particle board in the exact shape of the remaining piece of the kick board, and glue them together.

4. Set the kick board behind the seat again, and outline the edge of the seat.

5. Hollow out enough of the foam using a Dremel tool or a box cutter, where the kick board sits behind the seat more flush.

6. There is a picture shown above of the seat with 2 bolts through it. Drill 2 holes here, and drill 2 holes through the kick board and particle board to match these holes. This will be to connect the seat to the kick board.

7. Cut 2 more pieces of the steel. Length of these is variable, all to match the child's needs. Ours were long enough where 8 holes of the steel were showing. We used a press to bend them to a 90 degree angle, shown above. If this tool is not available, they can be bent with a hammer on the edge of a work bench. Cut 2 slits in the foam and particle board where you need the head supports. slide the longer end through, and screw them into the particle board.

8. Outline the kick board on the fabric, and leave 1/4 inch on each side for a seam allowance. cut 2 of these sections, and a long thin strip of fabric that covers the entire curved edge of the kick board (from bottom, all the way over the top on the arch, to the other bottom). This strip should be 1/2 inch wider than the kick board and particle board together. Sew the fabric in the shape of the kick board. 2 slits need to be cut where the metal head supports will fit through it. This could be tough to slide the fabric cover on the seat with the head supports in place, but just work with it and it will go on.

9. Add the necessary foam to the head supports, zip tie them to keep them in place.

10. Make fabric covers for the hip and head supports. measure the circumference of the supports with the foam around them, and make a rectangle of fabric that is *length of support + 1/2 inch* x *circumference of support + 1/2 inch* (1/2 inch because it's 1/4 inch on each side.) Sew one side and one end, leave one end open to slide the supports in. For the hip supports, fold over the open end and attach them to the seat through the holes. Since the head supports are already attached, just slide the covers on and tuck them under the foam. Hot glue can be added to hold these in place.

11. Attach the kick board to the seat. As shown in the last picture, you can add a piece of steel to the site where the bolts come through the particle board for extra support. Add a washer and a nut to attach the contraption together.

Step 4: Tray

1/4 inch plywood was laser cut to meet our requirements of the size of the child. The tray is 17 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and these dimensions will work for any child most likely. The differences will be in the slot at the bottom where it will wrap around the child. Our slot was 8.5 inches wide and 7 inches tall. The hole for the Jellybean switch will remain the same, 6.65 cm in diameter. After the tray is cut, we painted it with black house paint and sealed it with Minwax Polycrilic.

Tray attachment

1. We used scrap pieces of wood for all this section. The main cross bar was approximately 1/2 inch by 3 inches by 17 inches long. The pieces holding it to the the sides were a square section of a 2x4 cut in half. Screw the sections of the 2x4 to the sides of the car. Holes can be drilled through the wood before to make sure the wood doesn't split.

2. Attach the hinge to the cross bar. Screw in the hinge in the fashion shown. If the screws show through the other side, they can be sanded down with a Dremel tool.

3. Attach the cross bar to the supports on the car. To do this, we had to carefully drill holes all the way through the wood from top to bottom, and then send a screw through the wood to attach it.

4. Attach tray to hinge. We used washers to cover up the insertion side because our paint chipped.

5. Cut fabric to cover the wood. Hot glue it to attach it.

6. A pool noodle can be sliced open and wrapped around the inside curve of the tray to add extra support. (optional

Jellybean switch attachment:
1. Used 3 bolts that came with when orders the jellybean, we drilled the wood to attach the bolts. Please note that not all wood would withstand drilling especially if your wood is thin. I suggest using glue if you can, and if you can't, just reinforce the drilling area with metal sockets to provided the needed support for drilling wood. 2. Some jellybean button come with a cover, we couldn't press the button with the cover attached. Sometimes, the button would push and get stuck so we simply removed the extra cover provided. 3. For the wiring of the jelly bean, we covered the wire with some wire protraction tube, and than attached the wire to the inside of the car to hide it, than found a whole on the ground to hide the wire and move it to the battery in the back of the car.



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