How to Make a Custom Sewing Machine Case

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About: I got an old sewing machine when I was just a kid, and I've been hooked on making stuff ever since. My name is Sam and I'm a community manager here at Instructables.

We all have funny things we geek-out about.

For me it's sewing machines from the 1940s through 1970s.

I like tinkering with machines from this era as well as sewing with them, specifically Berninas, Pfaffs, and Necchis.

There are a lot of "old sewing machine" geeks out there, and we have a lot of fun with our vintage machines.

I recently completed restoring a few of my favorite sewing machines, and decided to build simple, sturdy cases for each of them. I also made some custom hinges to mount the machines into the cases.

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If you've got an old sewing machine that you love, you should give it a proper home! : )

This is how I made my sewing machine cases, and how you could do it too. Thanks for reading!!

Step 1: A Little Collection of Machines

These are my old flatbed machines that are fully up-and-running, ready to use. I have a Bernina 730 free arm machine that is probably used the most often, for mending and hemming my kids clothes and little projects like that, and that just sits on a shelf without a case.

I've also got a little serger that comes out at Halloween time for costumes, a new-to-me industrial walking foot machine, and a few more future-project machines piled up in a closet.

So . . . I'd say I'm a passionate sewing machine hobbyist. I might sell some of my machines someday, but for now when I pick them up, I feel joy. So they get to stay!

My instructables username was more apt when I joined the site way-back-when . . these days you're more likely to find me taking apart an old sewing machine than actually sewing with it. Follow your interests, I say!

Step 2: A Note Regarding Hinges

A key to this project are the hinges that mount the machine to the case.

These keep the machine in place but also allow it to tilt back for cleaning, oiling, and ease in bobbin swapping (which is more or less critical depending on the model of machine).

You can buy hinges similar to the ones shown in the first photo (like these), or salvage some from an older sewing table or case. I had a couple sets of these to use, and the installation is shown in the following steps.

However, I needed more hinges and didn't want to buy this style because they require a greater thickness on the back piece to which they are attached. I considered several ways to make homemade hinges and ultimately came up with the design shown in the 2nd photo.

This is a slim and minimal design that works great and are ridiculously easy to install, but they do require a bit of metalworking to produce.

I prefer securing my machines with hinges, but you could forgo hinges altogether and just rest the machine in the case, perhaps on little support blocks at the corners. So that is an option.

Step 3: Tools

Okay, let's get to it.

I used a variety of tools to complete these sewing machine cases and hinges.

For the cases:

  • tablesaw with cross-cut sled
  • brad nailer with air compressor
  • drills and sanders
  • router
  • scroll saw
  • oscillating sander

For the custom hinges:

  • portable metal bandsaw
  • drill press with vise
  • Dremel-style rotary tool

Materials are noted in the individual steps that follow.

Step 4: Base Measurements

The cases are made from 9mm (7-ply) baltic birch plywood along with a few pieces of hardwood.

The exact measurements needed may vary based on the size of your sewing machine, but almost all older flatbed-style domestic and industrial sewing machines I've seen have a depth front-to-back of 7 inches. The width varies more often; in my collection of machines, some have a base width of 14 1/2" an others are 16 1/2".

Remember to take into account space needed to fit the handwheel which on some models sticks out further than the base.

So I made the inside opening on my bases just a hair over 7" deep by 18" wide. This allows room for the handwheel as well as a little room for storage of the foot pedal or cords.

I began by cutting a scrap block of wood to be 7 1/64ish" to use as a spacer. This helps make sure the interior depth of the bases are made precisely as needed (see photo 1).

For the back piece of the frame I used oak, and the thickness used depended on the style of hinges I planned to use for that case (so some photos show a thicker doubled-up piece, and others show a thinner piece).

The remaining pieces of the base are made from 9mm plywood, with the sides layered to create a lip that registers the top cover piece in place.

The frame pieces are 3" and 1 3/4" tall respectively, and cut to length as needed to create the interior opening sized as noted above.

All of these pieces were cut using a table saw for long cuts, and table saw with cross-cut sled to cut them to length.

Step 5: Base Assembly

The pieces for the inside layer of the base were glued and nailed together using a brad nailer, as shown.

A bottom piece was then cut and glued/nailed in place.

Then the outer frame pieces were added in the same fashion. Note in the photos how I lapped the ends of the pieces to increase strength.

An 1/8" roundover bit was used in a small palm router to remove all of the square edges. Wood filler was used to fill the nail holes, followed by a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 6: Cover

The cover was made to fit onto the base, with side pieces that are 12" tall. This is assembled using glue and brad nails similarly to the base.

Pieces or hardwood scraps are used to reinforce the interior corners however, and cut shorter than the height of the cover walls to keep them from hitting the base when the cover is in place.

The built in handles are explained in the next step.

Step 7: Handles

I considered several options for adding handles to these cases, and decided that built in cut-outs on the ends was the best option.

They're free and allow the cases to be stacked and packed away easily.

The areas to be removed were marked and cut out roughly using a scroll saw, then made more smooth and precise using an oscillating sander. Then the edges were routed with a roundover bit from both sides.

This is all done before assembling the covers.

Step 8: Cover Assembly

The case cover was assembled using glue and nails as shown. Edges were routed, nail holes filled, and then everything was sanded with 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 9: Lacquer

To finish the cases, I sprayed them with several light coats of semi-gloss lacquer with a light sanding between coats.

Step 10: Adding Commercial Hinges

To add this style of hinges, you need to precisely drill or route out a recessed area for each hinge to sit in.

These are just a little under 1 1/8" so I used a spade bit to drill these holes. It helps to fasten the hinges into the machine first, and then prop the machine into the case opening to mark the exact position where to drill the hinge recesses.

To keep the spade bit inline I drilled a 1/16" pilot hole first.

The area to the front the holes is carefully sawed and chiseled away to make clearance for the hinge pins.

With the hinge recesses created, you can then prop up the machine so it is level with the base, and then fasten the hinges to the base with screws.

One or two support blocks can be made as needed and glued in place under the machine's feet so it will sit level within the case (last photo).

Step 11: Making Homemade Sewing Machine Hinges

The following few steps show how I make these custom homemade sewing machine hinges.

I show how to make one, but obviously you'll need two per machine : )

They are made from 1/2" square tubing, 1/4" and 1/8" metal rods, and tiny 4S brass washers.

Step 12: Hinge Housing

To make the housing for the hinges, square tubing is cut to length to match the thickness of the back hardwood piece of the sewing machine case.

For me, this was about 7/8". This cut is done using a small portable metal bandsaw.

Using a drill press and vise, an 1/8" hole is drilled through two sides of the tubing piece, centered 1/4" in from one end.

Using a small pair of locking pliers the piece is held and a non-drilled face is removed from the tubing piece using the bandsaw.

A dremel style rotary tool is used at this point to remove any burrs and sharp edges from this piece.

The piece is then returned to the drill press and another holes is made in the back of the bottom face of the piece, through which a screw will be fastened to attach the hinge to the case later on.

Step 13: Hinge Pins

A piece of the 1/4" metal rod is cut 1 1/2" long, and a piece of the 1/8" rod is cut about an inch long.

An 1/8" hole needs to be drilled through the end of the larger rod, about a 1/4" in from the end. This is tricky and might take a few tries to get it right! Use a dremel with a sanding drum to create a spot for the drill bit to start, which is helpful, and use cutting fluid.

The bottom side of the end with the 1/8" hole will likely need to be ground down a little to allow the pin to swing freely up and down in the housing. Take a close look at the first photo to see what I mean.

Step 14: Assemble Hinge

The hinge is assembled as shown. It helps to gently round over the edges on one end of the 1/8" rod to help feed it into place in the housing easily.

It also will help to have a pair of tweezers handy to help get the tiny washers in place, along with a little patience. It's a little puzzle, but it gets easier to put them together with a little practice.

The excess 1/8" rod is then trimmed off, and any additional burrs are sanded away with the dremel.

A dot of super glue on the ends of the 1/8" rod will keep it in place if you're afraid it might slide out before you have time to mount the hinge in a case.

Step 15: Mount Hinges to Case

The beauty of these hinges is how easy they are to mount to the case, IF you have access to a cross-cut sled in a table saw.

The hinges are mounted to the machine, and location is marked on the base of the case.

Using a table saw cross-cut sled with the blade height set as needed, the channels for the hinges to fit in are carefully nibbled away pass by pass with the blade.

The hinges are fastened to the case with screws into pilot holes, and support blocks are added as needed to keep the machine level in the base.

Step 16: Add Clasps

Clasps are added to the outside of the case to attach the cover to the base. These are attached carefully using pilot holes to ensure precision.

Step 17: Add Names!

Since I've got a handful of machines, I decided to add names to the cases using vinyl letters.

I got a package of miscellaneous letters and numbers for $4 from a Home Depot store (this).

Step 18: That's It

I hope you found some useful tips and ideas in this instructable.

If you make your own sewing machine case, please let me know in the comments and share a photo or two. I'd love to see it!

If you're interested in restoring a vintage sewing machine, I'll have another instructable on that topic done soon.

Thanks for reading!

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    14 Discussions

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    diditmyselftips

    11 days ago on Step 18

    Wow your projects are just amazing. Really nice work and super detailed.

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    Bard

    Question 4 weeks ago

    Do you know where one can find sewing needles for vintage sewing machines? I have access to one but the standard needles seem to be to long.

    4 answers
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    MaryR193Bard

    Answer 23 days ago

    There is a great list of the needles needed for various sewing machines, found at the ismacs dot net website. If your machine does not take a standard "15" needle, there are many vendors out there, for both the common and rarer needle types. I suggest looking at some of the better known sites, the featherweight shop, sewsalot, sew purty, ismacs, and many various sites using vintage sewing.

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    Yonatan24Bard

    Answer 4 weeks ago

    Maybe you could even cut the needles with a rotary tool or wire cutters?

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    Jonas andersonBard

    Answer 4 weeks ago

    What kind of sewing machines do you have?

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    seamsterBard

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    There are different styles of needles depending on the brand of machine. All types are available still, so a quick google and you should find what your machine takes, and find several places online where you can buy them.

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    Laurpud

    4 weeks ago on Step 18

    Thank you for this Instructable! I have an eclectic mix of vintage machines, but my Dressmakers (reminiscent of 50s cars) have no cases. Now I just need to find someone who can make them for me...

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    srilyk

    4 weeks ago

    This is utterly lovely. It also exists as one of the items on my "most wanted" project board, so I should be making it in the next month or so

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    studleylee

    4 weeks ago

    Awesome!! Love that bandsaw too! -Lee

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    Phil B

    4 weeks ago

    Very nice work. Things I do never look quite so neat.
    A few months ago I worked on a similar machine for someone, but much newer, probably from the early 2000s. I think it was a Pfaff. The motor did not run at all. The shop the owner she trusts was steering her to a new machine for $700 and telling her how expensive it would be to install a new motor. I looked at the old motor and held some very fine sandpaper against the darkened copper commutator sections while I turned the armature by hand. It took a while, but as soon as the commutator was clean and bright the machine ran like new. This could easily be a problem on a machine from the 1930s or 1940s, too.

    1 reply
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    seamsterPhil B

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Thank you. Yes indeed, a deep clean can do wonders! I've cleaned up a few old motors in some of my machines, and had good luck using a small wire wheel in a dremel to clean up those blackened copper sections. It's incredibly satisfying to clean something up and get it back to working order.. especially if you're saving someone a good chunk of money in the process : )

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    Penolopy Bulnick

    4 weeks ago

    Those look like super nice boxes and I like how you did the lettering up the side like that :)