Living in britain, golf is braving the elements to perform tasks in order to complete the course, the objective being to retire to the 19th hole (the bar) with reasonable efficiency . this device is designed to facilitate and expedite that .being November the the last round of golf i played was in wind and rain including the last few holes in the dark.while cleaning the mud and sand from my clubs i decided to make this.
Lighting in this video is bad, i apologize, you kinda see whats happening.
Loosing problems is about predicting them before they occur , was originally planning to put the switch in the handle and run the wires through the shaft, and was also looking at putting AA batteries in the shaft , then i found a lithium cell holder and it got a whole lot simpler.
• Latching switch on the handle would be more prone to damage from other clubs in the bag.
• Live external wire would look messy.an internal wire would be needed.
• Loosening the head may happen if drilling the head where it meets the shaft , to route wire.
• Locking cap would be needed when having batteries and wire in a metal shaft , theres also a short risk.
• Lazer parts as they might not like negative earth ,if i use the shaft as a conductor,
Step 1: Notes on Lazer
- Nice line lazer, too good to smash up ,it was a christmas present. pic 1.
- Not so nice one used in this club, a budget lazer line tape measure combo .plastic grip has gone sticky. pic 3-6
- Nearly lost the lens when this split open in an explosion of plastic and metal.
Step 2: Spreading a Dot Into a Line
- Spot lazer's can easily be be converted to make a line ,
- Segment of clear biro works well and they are obtainable everywhere as far as i know..
- Small cylindrical piece of glass will be good, wine glass stem , or cocktail plastic stirrer.
Step 3: Hot Glue and Solder Time
Below is a short video of the nuts and bolts end of the assembly
• Having a premade stock lithium cell holder would have been quicker.
• Hot glue holds the lazer on target..
• Holding the solder joints above the metal surface is done with a sticky pad.
• Harder epoxy glue was necessary to hold the lens in place.
• Having superglue near or on lens parts fogs them up. dont do it.
Step 4: Making It Look Less Like a Big Blob of Jellyfish Poop on Your Putter.
• Masking off the switch and battery with plasticine.
• Modeling it in a way that it acts as a mould for the filler.
• Maintaining the the lines and general shape of the head are a must.
Step 5: Blobby Blobby Blobby
- Building up layers is an option
- But life is too short for doing things properly.
- Being bigger than the intended final shape is the goal here.
Step 6: Porridge Rubber Cutter
- Porridge stage is just after sticky,and moments before rubbery.and has distinct texture.
- Prodding leftover filler with your finger will guide you.
- Pebbelly and grainy tells you to get ready with a sharp knife.
- Proceed to shave the blob into an approximate shape.
- Paring off here saves a lot of filing sanding time and effort.
- Peeling off is also possible at this stage,so cut along and toward edges.
Step 7: File
- Feathering the edges where the materials meet.
- Feeling for tool marks and grooves left by the blade.
Step 8: Abrasive Paper
And now it should start looking and feeling like a nice object .
Step 9: Remove the Mask
Revealing a fully functional switch and removable battery.
Step 10: Options of Colour
- Originally was going with bright yellow enamel paint.
- Overpaintable after many hours, it was getting poor coverage,
- Over several coats it will become lumpy.
- Overturned my decision and wiped it off while still sticky.
- Ordinary duct tape worked as a mask for the face and shaft.
- Only spray colour i have to hand is rover nightfire red.
- Once red was dry i remove the mask.
- Oxidisation of the face over time has made it dull and grey.
- Oval motion with wet and dry paper 2000 grit get the face back to shiney and smooth
- Old school wadding polish getsit to a mirror shine.