In this Instructable I would like to describe my version of the case for the memorial American Flag used to honor military veterans at their funerals. I wanted to simplify the woodwork and so came up with this version which only uses four 45 degree cuts. Even these cuts don't need to be exactly perfect, though you should try to make them as close to 45 degrees as possible. Note that the first picture is of a flag case I previously made with a darker stain.
Step 1: Materials & Tools
- ¾ inch oak plank (at least 67 inches long) and at least 4 3/8 inches wide
- Round wood plug
- Square glass cut on the diagonal (to yield two isosceles triangles)
- 1 inch wood screws (2)
- 1 ½ inch wood screw (1)
- ½ inch wood screws (6)
- Stain of choice
- Polyurethane or finish of choice
- Wood glue
- Brass plaque with adhesive backing
- Table saw with ability to tilt blade 45 degrees
- Tape measure
- Phillips head driver
- 1/16 inch bit for pilot holes
- Drill bit for wood plug
- Sabersaw or jigsaw
- 90 degree clamp (optional but it really helps)
- Paint brushes
Step 2: Get the Glass Cut
You begin by getting a square piece of glass. The length of the glass in my case is 18 inches. There is a 1/4 inch deep slot cut into all three piece of wood. The glass is cut so that 1/4 inch protrudes from the two upright sections and this allows you to attach the base and have it set. Go to a good hardware store that cuts glass. Get single-width glass and ask them to cut two isosceles triangles.
Step 3: Cut the Lumber to Size
First you have to rip the lumber so that it is the correct width. My cases are 4 3/8 inches deep. Second you need to chop the three pieces. I begin with uprights that are about 1 inch longer than I need and a base that is about 1/2 inch longer than I need. So for my case the uprights were 18 7/8 inches long and the Base 26 3/4 inches long. Note that both upright pieces are trapezoids. The measurement is along the long edge.
Step 4: Cut 45 Degree Bevels in the Top Pieces
In this step tilt your saw blade at 45 degrees. Note that when you make a cut you are making a reciprocating 45 degree cut on the adjacent piece. If you flip the board over you will at that time have a perfect 90 degree joint. Then measuring carefully make another 45 degree cut on the other end of each piece. Remember that your measurement (18 7/8 inches) is on the long side of the trapezoid. I found that it was best to cut a bit long and then keep working in until I hit my "cut mark." The tricky part here is making sure that the 45 degree cuts are at the right orientation. You are making a trapezoid and not a parallelogram!
Step 5: Cut a Slot for the Glass
Using a scrap keep raising your saw blade until it is 1/4 inch deep. Then set the fence to 1/4 to 3/8 inch away from the blade. Then run all three pieces (the two top pieces and the base along the fence to create the slot your glass will fit into. My saw blade's kerf is wide enough to only require one pass but test your glass for fit and if it needs to be widened then move the fence 1/36 inch further and make another pass.
Step 6: Join the Two Top Pieces
Make sure that the glass slot is on the same side and then spread a light layer of wood glue on both pieces and join them at 90 degrees. A 90 degree vise helps here but you could also just use a 90 degree measure and hold them together with masking tape on the joining and along the top. Just make sure that they are joined. You will let this dry and then drill a hole for the screw that joins the pieces. Make sure to use a drill bit that creates a wide enough hole that you can use a flat-head plug which you will wood glue in. Alternately you could fill it in with wood putty or sawdust and glue. After everything sets, sand this down.
Step 7: Temporarily Join the Base
Put the base piece on, again being sure that the glass slot is in the right place. Your glass should be extending about 1/4 inch as you can see in my picture. when you put the base on the glass should seat into the slot. Then drill holes on the base extending into both uprights at a 45 degree angle and drive 1 inch screws in. Be sure not to screw thru the uprights. You might have a wee piece of base jutting out. Just run that in small passes thru a table saw on a sled until it is flush. Then unscrew it all. Carefully remove the glass. Now sand all over. I like to "break the edge on the uprights to give it a bit more of a finished look. I've also used a router to round it slightly but I really like the sanded look.
Step 8: Stain and Seal the Project
Use stain if you want to and then apply three coats of polyurethane or your choice of protectant. Leave ample time between coats and rough the coats with very fine grained (220 or more) sandpaper.
Step 9: Insert the Glass Again and Screw It Tight
Insert the glass and screw the bottom on tightly. I don't glue the base down because this will allow me to repair the glass if I ever need to by disassembling the unit.
Step 10: Trace the Outline in Masonite and Attach the Back
After tracing the outline of the case in Masonite, cut it with about 1/16 inch removed. Then use the 1/16 inch bit to drill six pilot holes for the backing. Use the 1/2 inch wood screws to attach the Masonite to the back of the case.
Step 11: Insert the Flag and Use Foamboard to Hold It in Place.
You might need to shave the foam board to get the right width. Once it is in place screw the Masonite to the backing. Attach the brass nameplate in the front. Enjoy.