Once and a while me and my dad will take a request from someone to build a specific project. This was one of those builds. Originally we had planned to insert a lock into the table somewhere so that you could lock the compartment, but eventually, we realized that the fit was so snug that there was really no need for one. The most difficult part of completing this table was creating the round rings that went around the edges. But, I'll get to those eventually.
Disclaimer(This post contains affiliate links)
Step 1: Materials/Tools
-Several 1/2" Oak Boards
-Woodburning Kit: https://amzn.to/2PzRWb6
-Wood Glue: https://amzn.to/2yzE5If
-Clear Polyurethane: https://amzn.to/2S7ugscNatural
-Elmers Wood Putty: https://amzn.to/2S7ugscNatural
-1 Foot Quick Grip Clamps: https://amzn.to/2SfcJP5
-Wood Screws Assorted: https://amzn.to/2LfgLV7
-Table Saw: https://amzn.to/2Lw474n
-Utility Knife: https://amzn.to/2BBUxZ2
-Chop Saw: https://amzn.to/2V9z5U7
-Glass Cutter: https://amzn.to/2AgEH6h
-Table Router: https://amzn.to/2Lycigt
-Bandsaw (portable kit): https://amzn.to/2ShO0df
-Belt Sander: https://amzn.to/2CxV93B
Step 2: Table-Top Construction
Table-Top: For the table-top, you don't necessarily have to do it in the same exact way that we did. For starters, before we even started building, dad made a template out of cardboard so that we could lay it onto our 3/8" plywood and trace the outline out with our jigsaw.
Rim: If you want to try and make your own circular trim piece, you're in for a challenge! There are several ways of going about it, but the method we wanted to use was the minimalist style of gluing and clamping. Since we didn't feel like wasting a ton of wood on making one small little trim piece, we first planed down several of our 3/4" boards so that they were nice and smooth. Then we glued several of them in an outline around the edge of our table-top and then left them to dry. This is no easy task though because once the boards are done drying, you really have to be careful as the piece is somewhat fragile. Another way we could have gotten that circular shape just right was to soak our boards in water so that we could have bent them much easier, however, our tight schedule didn't allow for this convenience. Not to mention the wood could have ended up checking or splitting over time.
Step 3: Legs
For our legs, we just kept them super simple as all we did was cut 12 15" long strips from our 1/2" oak boards, glued them in groups of three, and then planed them on our planer so that they were ready for when we needed to attach them to the table. For some added eye comfort you can opt to the router the edges and bottoms of your legs so that they have a more modern and clean look.
Step 4: Secret Storage Space
As you can imagine, we made our secret storage space out of the same 3/8" plywood that the top was made out of. This part is really simple as all you have to do is decide how big you want your storage space to be, cut your pieces to size, and then glue/nail it together. One added element that you don't have to add on yours is the fact that we had our legs rest inside our secret compartment. So in order to do this, we had to cut out some holes in the bottom of our compartment with our scroll saw for them to insert into.
Step 5: Support Wing Construction
Anytime you decide to embark on the creation of something that will contain a secret, you will always need to put in some extra effort to make sure it stays hidden. And this was the case with this table.
In order to help conceal the table's hidden area, we had to build some supports for the top piece. I won't go into too much detail as to how we ended up attaching them to the sides of the table as it was a little technical and required very precise pilot hole drilling. If you want to know how we attached them to the table you can check out the video as I explain it much better there. As for the boards themselves. These were made out of the same 3/4" boards that we used for the trim piece.
After we finished securing our wings to our table, we placed our table-top on top of the table and traced around the edges of it with a pencil. We then removed the support wings, took the pieces to the bandsaw, cut around the pencil line, and then painstakingly routered almost every inch of the boards that were inside the lines. The reason we did this so that the table-top could sit inside a recessed edge thereby making it look very natural to have a seam going around the outside of the table.
Step 6: Supports for Your Wing Supports
The wings themselves are not strong enough to support the table on its own. Therefore you will have to create some braces to help keep them level. I apologize for not having any good photos of them as I didn't seem to keep much of the footage of us installing them when I was editing the video. Any type of board with a 90-degree angle will do. As long as they extend far enough under the wings to give them adequate support, you should be good.
Step 7: Finishing
To try and match our friend's furniture, we applied two layers of clear polyurethane to the table-top and only one to the rest of the project. Adding any additional routering to the edges of your table are suggested but not necessary. Only add it if you desperately feel the need to have aesthetically pleasing furniture ;)