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21Instructables253,084Views193CommentsMilwaukeeJoined December 29th, 2015
Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech follow me on twitter at @Core3D_tech

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  • Core3D completed the lesson Large Motors in the class Large Motors Class17 days ago
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.418 days ago
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    USB and PSU are two different power inputs to the board. The USB will fire up board but is only 5V and has no juice to run any motors (barely enough to light up LCD). RAMPs Board itself has 2 12 volt inputs 5A and 11A. Make sure you connected the + and - wires side by side and did not inadvertently use the + from 11A and the - from 5A. It could also be that one of the fuses behind the 11A and/or 5A is triggered. use your VOM to check of neither of these are interupted.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller24 days ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I can't speak for your A8M issues. I'm sure there's an ANet community on facebook that might be able to help you. If you choose to replace your current board on the ANet with a KFB2.0, you will have to install the Marlin firmware yourself (http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html). These boards don't come with stock firmware. You don't need a USBASP to configure the KFB 2.0. They have their own USB connection though which you can upload marlin (via something like Arduino IDE). I mention in the instructable that that you either select BOARD_MKS_GEN_L or BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB as the board. You subsequently have to configure marlin according to the specs of the ANet. There might already be an A8 configuration.h sample present in the sample configurations

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    I used most of the original I3 plans but since I did some redesign I can gaurantee absolute compatibility. distance between screw and rod (holes) are 19.4mm. Distance from rods to frame about 37.4mm. You can download the entire design from grabcad.com https://grabcad.com/library/laminated-prusa-i3-printer-1 for all the exact specs

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)4 weeks ago
    3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    Thx, It'll be tough to top this one next year at MRRF, but I'll try nonetheless.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)4 weeks ago
    3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    Thank you. I appreciate that. This feedback makes all the hard work even more worthwhile.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)4 weeks ago
    3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    Thank you, that's what I aimed for. I believe Form should be up there with function.

    Thank you! no categories of contest that lines up with this printer this time. My last Printer https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/ did end up as runner up in one of the contests. (Smaller and way more affordable)

    The software is described in step 19. It comes free with the hardware (duet WiFi). Their setup documentation is excellent.

    thx, I was told this wouldn't work from the get-go with 6mm belts, (I was told something similar with my canteliver, so I defied that too) but the proof is in the puddin' as they say. I was able to print up to full height on a very narrow subject, without issues. (see attached image with 1100mm vertical windmill wings). I did however expand the design so it can work with 9mm belt. Unfortunately, the 16 teeth pulley would be a problem if you want to upgrade this printer with the movable bed (instructable one day to come). using 16 teeth pulleys would leave too little room between the belt for my "belt grabber" mechanism. I've also thought about designed a printer using a metal drive chain (something like #25 C/L or #35 C/L), any thought on that (certainly would look very steamp...

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    thx, I was told this wouldn't work from the get-go with 6mm belts, (I was told something similar with my canteliver, so I defied that too) but the proof is in the puddin' as they say. I was able to print up to full height on a very narrow subject, without issues. (see attached image with 1100mm vertical windmill wings). I did however expand the design so it can work with 9mm belt. Unfortunately, the 16 teeth pulley would be a problem if you want to upgrade this printer with the movable bed (instructable one day to come). using 16 teeth pulleys would leave too little room between the belt for my "belt grabber" mechanism. I've also thought about designed a printer using a metal drive chain (something like #25 C/L or #35 C/L), any thought on that (certainly would look very steampunk)?So barring a future "upgrade" to a moveable bed, 9mm belt and 16 teeth pulley will work in this design.Now that I have you attention, how long can your arms get? People keep asking me why the bed is so small (only 330mm). Bigger bed, implies longer arms which in turn implies loosing Z-height. I'm still tempted to try designing something with a much bigger bed. This is my first delta, but I'm really impressed with the print quality compared to cartesians.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)5 weeks ago
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 weeks ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    As long as the steppers (your motors are most likely stepper motors, not servos) move the right direction while printing it should be good. For my last printer, I created videos, including the wiring and software settings. Their specific to the C3Dt/c but in many aspects similar to any other "simple" printer

    Not unheard of. Servos would be nice but incredibly expensive and a bit harder to control with existing hardware

    If you are using a heated bed, you need to turn on the TEMP_SENSOR_BED=1 (currently 0).I also noticed your #define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0 (should most likely be 1.75)Are you using all the MAX_ENDSTOPS? In the instructable this is all MIN_ENDSTOPS

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller6 weeks ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I assume you are talking about the LCB bridge, as seen on the top of the RAMPS in attached image. Ignore it. It comes with the package but is meant for hooking up the LCD to a RAMPS board. The KFB already has the two black connectors present on the board.

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Smooth rods: at least 310mmScrew rods: at least 300mm

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    The KFB board has a heater0 and heater1 output for that purpose. I've never worked with dual extrusion but the configurations should be fairly straight forward. I believe the only thing in the configuration.h // This defines the number of extruders// :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5]#define EXTRUDERS 2

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thx!! fixed it.

    You can scale the Y to any length as long as you scale the linear rail along with the aluminum extrusion. One thing to keep in mind though is that the entire bed currently pivots on a single rail block. having a bed 500mm long might over reach the boundaries. You could consider adding a second block but I don't know if you can get a carriage with connections for two blocks. Don't try to scale the X axis any longer as it would put way too much strain on the cantilever pivot point.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    thx, it's hard to keep up with the vendors coming and going. I've updated the links in the instructabe

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    yes, unfortunate the seller quit his job. I've updated step 12 and here are some other links for the carriage:https://www.ebay.com/itm/3DPOWER-ALUMINIUM-Y-carri...https://www.taralu.net/products/tevo-tarantula-alu...You can find your own if you search for Tevo Tarantula Y Carriage

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c2 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    I could turn on international shipping (I assume you are referring to the eBay set). That said before you purchase, check that you can get the proper aluminum extrusion (1010 which is 1.5"x1.5"). It is my understanding it is very hard to find outside the US

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller3 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Yes that is the proper board you've selected. I've created a video on how to setup this board for the C3Dt/c here: as for your steppers not moving properly and display not working, that would be most likely related to the setup (not the board selection). I'd need more information on how to help with that (LCD type, stepper type, configuration.h)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    I can't figure out why, but my Delta also prints better than my CoreXY. I wouldn't throw the 500mm out the window (I've saw a 30ft high Delta at MRRF last year). But you may have to so some research on the arms. The largest stock ones that Filastuder sells are 400mm. You would have to do some research there. You'll also have to look into a 32 bit controller. I've always been a Marlin supporter but, man do I love my new Duet Wifi. As for stability, think big. My Delta is bolted into the wall for additional stability. Look forward to what you come up with!!

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Nothing is impossible but I with that bed size your arms would get very long. The recommended minimum angle I believe is 20 degrees (I go lower than that) but it will always mean your arms will be longer than 500mm (mine are 360mm). It also means your rails need to be 500mm longer than your print height. I you took my Printer's rails at 1360mm you would achieve a print height of about 800mm. That Printer would take up a lot of room. A coreXY maybe a good alternative here.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c3 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Eventually yes. I still have to put out my CoreXY here as well. Too many printers too few days. I'll be presenting my Delta at a Maker Faire in a couple of weeks and then MRRF2019 end of March. I hope to find some time after that. Heads up, this is not a budget DIY (it's already up to $2000)

    full specs: Build Volume: 330mm DIA x 1245mmLinear rails SR15 (Genuine THK)6mm Cast Aluminum heated bed (110Volt)Duet Wifi PanelDue 7iDelta Smart Adapter with E3D heatsinkBondTech BMG extruderBuildTak Flex Plate System (spring steel on magnetic bed)360mm Arms with mag balls Parts coolingTemperature driven controller cooling (of both TMC drivers and Controller)MeanWell 24Volt Power supplyFlying extruderNema 23 Stepper motors1515 extrusion FrameClip on wheels for easy transportationMacro operated adjustable bed

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  • Core3D commented on 陳亮's instructable Progressive Detail Moon Lamp4 months ago
    Progressive Detail Moon Lamp

    Yes!! https://youtu.be/m6DoqKYnRkw

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    to save you some time. I started with Marlin 2.0 yesterday and found you HAVE to use Arduino IDE 1.9 beta (with 1.8 you get compiler error)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I might be a bit out of my league here as most of my printers only have 1 z-axis motor and the one printer I built using two Z motors ran off of one driver. In Marlin 2.0 the configuration_adv.h has several settings around the dual driver (for all axis). Some of them seem to deal with synchronization issues.//#define Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERSIt also has an option (I believe this is new) for auto alignment for the two z-motors. //#define Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGNThis last setting is new from Marlin 1.9 so it may be addressing some of the issues you're dealing with. There's an interesting read on dual drivers for Z here: https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,648000 This article pre-dates some of the new setting in Marlin 2.0.

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  • Core3D's instructable Building a 3D Printer's weekly stats: 4 months ago
    • Building a 3D Printer
      931 views
      11 favorites
      0 comments
  • Core3D made the instructable Print Your Own Moon4 months ago
    Print Your Own Moon

    Took 70 hours to print but it came out nice https://youtu.be/m6DoqKYnRkw

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  • Core3D commented on 陳亮's instructable Progressive Detail Moon Lamp4 months ago
    Progressive Detail Moon Lamp

    50 hours in, 17 to go. Dropping the light in prior to finish so hopefully I can get away with an 8mm hole

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    here are the image of how the endstops are glued using scrap piece of acrylic

    The small clips are all there. Laminate Prusa Frame has 4 and it needs to be cut twice, making it 8. The endstops are all attached to left over pieces. The X Axis.dxf has a few spare pieces that have the 8mm hole and screw hole. These were used for the z-axis end stop. The micro switches themselves are hot-glued to the the plastic (crude but effective). I'll add some images as soon as instructables lets me (current crashes everytime I try to add images here. The LCD case was the very first 3D print made with this printer (not needed to operate). Here is one of my models you can use that will fit the LCD https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078866

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I currently have one spare card and I have had trouble with one of them (out of 5) with the same issue. I will have to take one out of one of my other printers so I'll have 2 to run some experiment. I'll try this ASAP.

    send you a message, here's the video of all 4 outputs running (bed, 2 hot-ends and pwm fan) https://youtu.be/hSC-RBbFXTU

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller4 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Sweet. The image I posted in my reply does most of the same, TMC2130, 24Volt, Inductive sensor, Parts cooling. Instead dual extruder I have controller cooling (wheneven drivers power up the board is cooled). Hope you have better luck with stallgaurd than I have (I use it on my Duet Wifi on a different printer. Takes a lot of tweaking to find the right speed/current/sensitivity to get it to stop). Keep me posted on the dual extruder

    On my current CoreXY I have all 4 pins in use but not for dual extrusion. I have Hot-bed to bed, HEATER0 to hot-end1, HEATER1 to controller fan and fan to cooling fan. Do you have the board or are you considering to get it? I'm just thinking that if you set:#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L#define EXTRUDERS 2It should turn HEATER1 to your second hot-end.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Adding Parts Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer4 months ago
    Adding Parts Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer

    My apologies, since this was about adding the parts cooling fan and since every printer should already have a hot-end fan I didn't go into where the Hot-end fan goes. In most printers the Hot-end Fan is always on. For a RAMPS board that means it's connected to the two pins in the yellow circle. The parts cooling fan is connected to the remaining D9

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    There are 2 m3 25mm hex socket screws through the matching holes in the extruder bracket with nut in the back. The timing belt is simply folded around these two screws and tightened with the little plastic clips. I hope the attached images clarify

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Yes, if you're using drivers other than the TMC2130 you will need to add these under the driver chips to achieve 1/16th micro stepping (see step 2)

    yes, you can use cold extrusion for testing (make sure you're not pushing plastic in the nozzle) with the gcode command M302 P1

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c5 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    if by scale up you literally mean how high can you go, I think I'm already stretching the limits of what's possible. Even with the current height if you intend to print up to 260mm, you'll need to go slower (probably add z-hop). I've printed in vase mode up to the limit but there's very little acceleration and jerk happening there. The print in this video was the opposite The printer I'm currently finishing up can go up to 1220mm hiehg but it's a Delta and has completely different dynamics.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Pt100 isn't as straight forward I guess as regular thermistors. Did you go through the connection setup as described here: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/E3D_PT100_Ampli...

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller5 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    The KFB is basically an arduino mega, so if it recognizes your old RAMPS on your computer but not the KFB, there might be a defect.If it recognizes neither, what comes to mind is that the drivers are missing. If you have not yet, you'll need to install the Arduino IDE. Best place for that is to go here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage (check out the install the arduino Desktop IDE)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.05 months ago
    Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0

    Yes, as far as I can tell the KFB3.0 is still missing servo connectors and physically other than some different capacitors the KFB 3.0 is practically identical to the 2.0

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.05 months ago
    Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0

    as far as the servo connection is concerned, yes. What I'm not a 100% sure about is the power requirements for a regular Servo compared to that of the BLTOUCH

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c6 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Not sure I caught this message. Did ever reply and/or did you get it resolved?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller6 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I think the big question is, do you have the current Marlin configuration files? If so you can always restore to that. here is a recent video but it's not specific to the ANET https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pt_b2ZizQM

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V6 months ago
    Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V

    I can only speak for what I've experienced, which by now is hundreds of printing hours since the upgrade, and I have not witnessed any interference issues with the thermistor.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Fully Functional Drag Chain Fusion 360 7 months ago
    Fully Functional Drag Chain Fusion 360

    Fusion does get quirky some times. Assuming you now have both ends of the chain connected to "something" there is the possibility that one of the constraints was "violated". When you try "animate joint" on any of your joints, do any of them work?

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Linear Screw Double Rail8 months ago
    Linear Screw Double Rail

    The end connector really just serves to keep the screw "in place". Some 3D printers simply have this end loose in the air. All structural support and rigidity comes from the 12mm rods. The only movement issues that can be caused by the screw are backlash (which could addressed with a back lash nut. In all my 3D printer I've never had the need for one of those either

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Dragon Hands8 months ago
    Dragon Hands

    Thank you. Enjoy!!

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Thank you, this is awesome. There's a few in the works I believe, but yours is the first completed one. I personally only connect via USB to test things and send g-code commands. I use Pronterface for that purpose (http://www.pronterface.com/). The other reason to use the USB port is for when I use my Raspberry Pi and print via OctoPrint. Other than those I print mainly from SD card (anything other than SD card uses serial communication and can impact print quality). My primary slicing program is Slic3r (http://slic3r.org/) but a lot of people love Cura (I use it sometimes, it seems to do better with really small items). Either one is great, it's just that you get used to the one you start with and it feels harder to switch later on. After Maker Faire Milwaukee I'll be writing the ins...

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    Thank you, this is awesome. There's a few in the works I believe, but yours is the first completed one. I personally only connect via USB to test things and send g-code commands. I use Pronterface for that purpose (http://www.pronterface.com/). The other reason to use the USB port is for when I use my Raspberry Pi and print via OctoPrint. Other than those I print mainly from SD card (anything other than SD card uses serial communication and can impact print quality). My primary slicing program is Slic3r (http://slic3r.org/) but a lot of people love Cura (I use it sometimes, it seems to do better with really small items). Either one is great, it's just that you get used to the one you start with and it feels harder to switch later on. After Maker Faire Milwaukee I'll be writing the instructable for my CoreXY machine. With it you can go BIG!! It has room for 400x400 build plate (even though I only use 200x300 plate. You can see it depicted in my 24Volt upgrade instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-3D-Prin...If you have a thingiverse account I'd love the to see you post the "Post a Make" with lots of pictures.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Dragon Hands8 months ago
  • Core3D entered Dragon Hands in the Halloween Contest 2018 contest 8 months ago
  • Core3D posted an instructable Dragon Hands8 months ago
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    That is awesome and kinda unreal to see my design implemented. Thanks for posting that. 90c might be challenging with the MK2 beds. You might want to consider insulating it from below. I don't really go beyond 60c which is what works fine for PLA.

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Pretty much all ramps are operated with these universal power switches. In case of 24V that would be this one https://amzn.to/2sRqDwz. It outputs 15Amp. The ramps has 2 inputs 5A and 11A (simply connect them both).

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  • Core3D's instructable Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0's weekly stats: 8 months ago
    • Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0
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      4 comments
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    I have a previous build on which I used linear rail on Z. Two issues there. The bed rests on a single MGN but at the center, on the Z axis it would be to the side (which is probably why the Cetus has such a small bed). There too much flex. The other issue is power loss or even end of print. The entire X axis comes crashing down everytime you power down the Z-stepper motor (or have a powerloss). I had to change the Marlin software in the core to elegantly bring home the Z axis and never to shut down the motors (which is does on cancel/stop print). You can see that setup here https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantil... I took my lessons from that and moved on.

    Lead screw with linear rail could work. There's a spatial challenge there as stepper motors take up room.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    rotating 90 would change the orientation for the linear rail, which in turn would put all the screws for the linear block behind the extruder making assembly different. For the X axis not impossible but much more complicated for the Y axis which has the electronics on one side and attachment to Frame on the other. Since the entire bed "rests" on the linear block, not sure having it sideways would work

    Good question. the answer is no, there's enough room for the t-nut and belt. Just make sure the screw going in isn't too long, that would be a problem

    As for speed, I run mine at 50mm/s haven't tested where it breaks. It's a cantilever and will never have the rigidity of a full frame. It's the nature of the beast, especially considering this one is pushing the boundaries of comercial cantilevers that tend to stick to 120x120mm beds. My first implementation was with 8mm rods and I quickly found out it needed the 12mm rods.Direct drive might be pushing it. Maybe with a Pancake stepper and exchange the proximity sensor with a BLTOUCH (much lighter). Even then, I think you may be tempting the forces that re.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.08 months ago
    Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0

    The pic did look very misleading. Replaced it. Also changed the X to Z. Thanks for catching that!

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c8 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    awesome to see some pictures of other builds. As for voltage on the steppers, I'm not very scientific there. Most stepper drivers (assuming A4988) come preset. Here's my method:-Start at 0.6 volt -Run a test on one axis (makes up some gcode file that just moves X or Y or Z) and run the motor-Turn down voltage till motion stops due lack of power. -From there turn it up again till I get the least noise (when you go higher you tend to get more vibrations).

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c9 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Awesome, look forward to seeing the results. Also if you haven't printed the bed carriage yet, you should check out this little carriage. It has the holes for the MGN12 https://www.fankhauser.me/products/aluminum-y-carriage-for-tevo-tarantula. It is lighter then my printed carriage and offers better rigidity.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c9 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    The top part of the bracket (minifanAdapter) is connected to the present extruder clamp (no redesign required or additional clamps required) by two of the 3/8 Inch screws. The screws are self tapping but you could pre-drill two holes (with a very thin drill bit) to make it easier. The stretched holes allow for upward and downward movement to keep it a few mm above the nozzle tip.(this has been added to step 8.1)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Thx, I reached out to them to figure out the actual difference between the 2 and never heard back. Visually they also seem identical (couple of different components). I'm pretty sure anything described here still applies to the 3.0 version. This literally taken from the link you sent "KEB3.0 controller board is our company designed and developed according to the problems of 3Dprinter KFB2.0 controller board" Not sure what to make of that. So the question is whether the "improvement" over the KFB2.0 is worth $6 more.The very odd thing in the almost identical description on Amazon is that is say for the KFB3.0: The max support only 12V, supportA4988, DRV8825 and TMC2100On the image I clearly see 12-24V output.If find out more (what's actually different from the 2.0) I'...

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    Thx, I reached out to them to figure out the actual difference between the 2 and never heard back. Visually they also seem identical (couple of different components). I'm pretty sure anything described here still applies to the 3.0 version. This literally taken from the link you sent "KEB3.0 controller board is our company designed and developed according to the problems of 3Dprinter KFB2.0 controller board" Not sure what to make of that. So the question is whether the "improvement" over the KFB2.0 is worth $6 more.The very odd thing in the almost identical description on Amazon is that is say for the KFB3.0: The max support only 12V, supportA4988, DRV8825 and TMC2100On the image I clearly see 12-24V output.If find out more (what's actually different from the 2.0) I'd love to hear.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 to 24 Volt9 months ago
    Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 to 24 Volt

    How would you place these between the drivers and the motors? It's the actually drivers that supply the power to the motors. not easy to interject 24Volt there

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    check this out https://www.instructables.com/id/Connecting-BLTOUCH-to-KFB20/

    I wrote an instructable for hooking up the BLTOUCH along will all setting/connections for its servo https://www.instructables.com/id/Connecting-BLTOUCH-to-KFB20/

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Hardware SPI or Software SPI?

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  • Upgrading RAMPS 1.4 With TMC2130 Stepper Drivers

    Thx! I know there was issues with it at the time of this writing (and beyond) so I didn't even go that route. I'm glad it has all worked out for you.In Configuration_adv.h there is a section for Software SPI/*** Use software SPI for TMC2130.* The default SW SPI pins are defined the respective pins files,* but you can override or define them here.*/ //#define TMC_USE_SW_SPI//#define TMC_SW_MOSI -1//#define TMC_SW_MISO -1//#define TMC_SW_SCK -1Most of my printers now run on KFB2.0 which has a seperate SPI block of pins which makes it easier too. As an FYI, I tried upgrading to Marlin 1.1.9 and had to stop as it wasn't recognizing the TMC2130 for E0. Download the latest bug-fix to get around that.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I use Marling firmware. In step 9, I describe where to find the firmware and what board to use for the KFB. As for the actual configuration, it will differ from setup to setup. So depending on what your printer looks like and what functions it uses, your setup will differ. For the C3Dt/c printer I've uploaded the configuration.h file in step 1 (https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/). In that file you can look at the things I had to change for that specific printer (search for c3dt in the configuration.h). It will look very different from one of my other printers running Marlin on KFB2.0

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    check out this guys project https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-RGB-LE...He uses twelve volts but even with 5 you may go the same direction with the mosfets as your LED strip might pull more power then the KFB can provide. The challenge is finding PWM enables pins that are available. the following pins on RAMPS are PWM enabled 2,4,5,6,7,11,12,13,44,45 and 46.Some of these are simply missing from KFB2.0. here are some candidates:D2 (signal pin on MAX_X Endstop)D44 (on AUX-2)D46 (pins under Z Stepper base)Hope this helps. Some of the missing pins on KFB certainly don't make this easier.

    At this point you may know as much as I do. I've never connected RGB LEDS. In the configuration.h there's a section on RGB LEDS with 3 pins assigned (may need redefine for KFB) so the software is ready. KFB2.0 has the 5V fan power output as well so that could be the + your lookingThe wiring I'm a bit fuzzy on. I would have to buy the strip and try it myself. Might make a nice instructable. Budget and time are a bit constrained as I'm preparing for the Milwaukee Makerfaire.//#define RGB_LED//#define RGBW_LED#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) #define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34 #define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43 #define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35 #define RGB_LED_W_PIN -1#endif// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver//#define NEOPIXEL_LED#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GR...

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    At this point you may know as much as I do. I've never connected RGB LEDS. In the configuration.h there's a section on RGB LEDS with 3 pins assigned (may need redefine for KFB) so the software is ready. KFB2.0 has the 5V fan power output as well so that could be the + your lookingThe wiring I'm a bit fuzzy on. I would have to buy the strip and try it myself. Might make a nice instructable. Budget and time are a bit constrained as I'm preparing for the Milwaukee Makerfaire.//#define RGB_LED//#define RGBW_LED#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) #define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34 #define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43 #define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35 #define RGB_LED_W_PIN -1#endif// Support for Adafruit Neopixel LED driver//#define NEOPIXEL_LED#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE NEO_GRBW // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h) #define NEOPIXEL_PIN 4 // LED driving pin on motherboard 4 => D4 (EXP2-5 on Printrboard) / 30 => PC7 (EXP3-13 on Rumba) #define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 30 // Number of LEDs in the strip #define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once. #define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127 // Initial brightness (0-255) //#define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST // Cycle through colors at startup#endif/** * Printer Event LEDs * * During printing, the LEDs will reflect the printer status: * * - Gradually change from blue to violet as the heated bed gets to target temp * - Gradually change from violet to red as the hotend gets to temperature * - Change to white to illuminate work surface * - Change to green once print has finished * - Turn off after the print has finished and the user has pushed a button */#if ENABLED(BLINKM) || ENABLED(RGB_LED) || ENABLED(RGBW_LED) || ENABLED(PCA9632) || ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED) #define PRINTER_EVENT_LEDS#endif

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    If you're using the micro switch with only 2 wires connected to the outside pins (com/nc) it doesn't matter as all you're doing is breaking/closing the circuit. connect them to the board at GND and pin (d40/d42) (do not connect to VCC). once connected, you can test them if your endstops show as triggered when you haven't depressed them, you'll need to go in marlin (configuration.h) and flip the #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.from true to false (or vice versa)

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    My bad, the initial video I posted used 5 Volt LEDs. For 12 Volts LEDs (which I assume yours are) It will involve a bit more as none of the signal pins get close to that. Like I said, I simply use a manual switch between my LED strips and PSU. If you want to control it with g-codes you you check out this video by Tom Sanladerer. I think he does exactly what you are looking for. The "Spare pin" he talks about in the video could still be the 57 pin, the actual power will be drawn from the PSU and the signal from ramps via mosfet will operate the on/off/dim capabilitieshttps://youtu.be/fb3hrjEiE3s

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  • Core3D's instructable Taking Steady Lapse Video of Your 3D Prints's weekly stats: 9 months ago
    • Taking Steady Lapse Video of Your 3D Prints
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  • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount

    Great. I just did an instructable on OctoLapse. It makes for really cool timelapse videos with OctoPrint https://www.instructables.com/id/Taking-Steady-Lapse-Video-of-Your-3D-Prints/

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller9 months ago
    Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    To have them software turned on/off? My LED strips are connected to my PSU and I use a manual switch to turn them on/off. If you want controlled by g-code; in The following video someone connected LEDs to RAMPS. D57 on RAMPS mentioned in the video is A3 on the KFB2.0 (see image attached)

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  • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount

    That is correct. As for the external power I recommend you get a 3Amp power cord (with on/offf switch). This is my setup. I have my Rapsberry Pi hanging (via magnets) on my cabinet. The Raspberry Pi itself has wifi built-in so that's how you connect to it via browser (or other client). Octoprint allows you to create multiple printer profiles, so I can use my one Raspbarry pi to control 3 printers (in this case one at a time, although I've read about multiple printers at once).

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    • Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 Case and Rotating Mount
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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c9 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    I've uploaded the configuration.h file into step one of this instructable. I went ahead and added //c3dt/c to every change I made so simply search for c3dt in something like notepad++. Do not blindly copy this configuration.h into your set of marlin files. They tend to make changes between minor versions that could cause issues. I hope this helps and I hope you'll hop over to https://www.patreon.com/core3d_tech Even a dollar a month makes a difference.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c10 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Glad you're making progess. Love to see the end result. There are a number of reasons why your display may not be working right off the bat. -If it's the 12864 LCD is the DOGLCD uncommented in configuration.h //#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based#define DOGLCD // Full graphics display-in configuration.h uncomment#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLERcomment (//) //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER-Are the ables properly connected exp1 to exp1 and exp2 to exp2-There have been some reports that the connectors for cables to the board are wrongly alligned in which case they ended up cutting off the knobbies from their cables and turning them around. I personally have never witnessed that and am skeptical about it.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c10 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Yes! I believe that one will do the trick. Here's another one I think should work https://www.fankhauser.me/products/aluminum-y-carriage-for-tevo-tarantula

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c10 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    in configuration.h set the board to either #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB or#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_LSee step 9 in https://www.instructables.com/id/Wiring-the-KFB20-...Also make sure in the Arduino software you have the proper board and chip selectedHope this helps

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  • Core3D's entry 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c is a winner in the Make it Move Contest contest 10 months ago
  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c10 months ago
    3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    Anything is possible, but it wasn't the intention of the design. The design at it's core has the universal power unit. It is exactly the same height at 1020 and supports the Y Axis. If you choose to go with 2040 (I'm guessing there's hundreds of designs specifically for 2040 out there) you will need to rearrange things with spacers. But more than just spacers.First challenge: The backbone (The 1020) that connects the Z-Axis to the Y-Axis, matches the power unit. If you use 2040, you will not reach the height of the power unit (and thus it could not support the Y axis). You would have to lift the 2040 in the back (corner bracket to Z-axis could possible support that plus some supports below the 2040)Second challenge: 2020 is about 5.4mm lower than 1010 profile. The Bed rests on top of th...

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    Anything is possible, but it wasn't the intention of the design. The design at it's core has the universal power unit. It is exactly the same height at 1020 and supports the Y Axis. If you choose to go with 2040 (I'm guessing there's hundreds of designs specifically for 2040 out there) you will need to rearrange things with spacers. But more than just spacers.First challenge: The backbone (The 1020) that connects the Z-Axis to the Y-Axis, matches the power unit. If you use 2040, you will not reach the height of the power unit (and thus it could not support the Y axis). You would have to lift the 2040 in the back (corner bracket to Z-axis could possible support that plus some supports below the 2040)Second challenge: 2020 is about 5.4mm lower than 1010 profile. The Bed rests on top of the Y Axis. and hovers over the the electronics case at a distance of about 3mm. That won't work with 2020 as the bed would no longer fit over the power unit. You would either have to heighten the bed by adding some bracket between Linear slider and bed frame (the most precarious part of this printer, as you're balancing a 200x200 bed on top of a 40x40mm slider block.Third challenge: All the connectors are off. The connectors to the power unit and Y-axis would have to be redesigned as the distance between power units screws and 2020 would be off by 2.7mm. The Electronics case which sits positioned over the exhaust of the power unit would have it's back screw hole off by 2.7mm.Fourth challange: The hot-end bracket that holds the hot-end and and probe was designed to to fit 1010 (where the connector meets the belt grip (that runs inside the rail) will be of by 2.7mm (doesn't sound like much but when you look at a 6mm gap, it's a lot). Same to be said for the Y-Axis slider bracket as it would be off from it's belt grip as well. I"m sure there will be a 4th and 5th and possibly more challenges as you look even closer. The C3dt/c was designed specifically for and around 1010 and the universal power unit. I created 2020 versions of most actuators (along with the cad files) so you can get creative and design whatever 3D printer (or CNC/LAser cutter) you want to make. Can you make it work with the C3dt/c? Sure anything is possible and the best of luck to you. Was it meant to be? No. I'm currently in the process of designing a printer, using the same actuators but specifically around the 2020 extrusion. The challenge I have with that one, is that it tends to look like any other 2020/ printer there.

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