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50Instructables667,004Views6,101CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • Wonders do seem to happen after all :)Today at work our water so badly colored that the girls preparing a bucket was told to do it again three times LOLAfter that it was finally acknowledged that we can not tolerate this for a business any longer.Several pictures were taken and next week my manager will contact our supplier and demand answers as well.As it turns out the ongoing pressure loss until the filter is blocked is also affecting operations as production times increase as a result.For my private connection I am still waiting on the promised call to inform me about their own findings on the matter.A more direct Email address to someone in the quality control department was given as well but I got no reply on my Email to there so far either.My neighbours either side of me today als...

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    Wonders do seem to happen after all :)Today at work our water so badly colored that the girls preparing a bucket was told to do it again three times LOLAfter that it was finally acknowledged that we can not tolerate this for a business any longer.Several pictures were taken and next week my manager will contact our supplier and demand answers as well.As it turns out the ongoing pressure loss until the filter is blocked is also affecting operations as production times increase as a result.For my private connection I am still waiting on the promised call to inform me about their own findings on the matter.A more direct Email address to someone in the quality control department was given as well but I got no reply on my Email to there so far either.My neighbours either side of me today also confirmed that their water is badly colored and appears cloudy.I suggested to call their hotline and to report a problem with the water.Both got the same answer:The water quality is above standards and we suggest you flush your lines or have a plumber inspect your pipes.What strikes on these responses is the advertising and promoting.I have no clue how many plumbers made good money from old ladies by doing really nothing and charging for it.If mud and sediment come into the meter then there is no way to eliminate it by flushing the pipes of the house, but what do I know...The next thing is the level of power here.I contacted several labratories to enquire on prices for a comprehensive water test.As I mentioned my tap water most told me directly that a test would not be required as my supplier would ensure the best quality by legal requirement anyway.And in either case the requested amount for testing 50ml of tap water is currently not on my budget.

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  • I assume contact problems.Take a good light and magnifiying glass to check the contacts, both for connectors and solder joints.A hairline usually means broken and requires resoldering.If the plug contacts don't look shiny then there might be a problem too.If in doubt check for continuity through the cable by testing from solder point to solder point.

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  • Downunder35m commented on darleen2009's forum topic Lexar flash stick/drive19 hours ago

    Can you provide all the details please?Model and size of the stick,operating system used, what did you do when it failed, what exactly do you mean by "stopped flashing"?

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  • Toxic is always relative, especially in a closed system.Have fixed a few ammonia based fridges back in the day after they got dropped or similar and got a leak.It is even possible to do this without much stink and gas / vapours escaping - I prefer to put my ammonia in the freezer over night ;)The key is to "fill" the fridge system twice so to say.Ammonia always needs a tiny amount of water but you really need to get all air out the system first to prevent corrosion.A flush with Argon or Helium is a good idea ;)The first fill is with an open system and the concentrated ammonia/water solution.Then all is cooled down big time.The next "fill" is by bubbling ammonia through the reservoir, preferably under slight pressure to prevent air entering the system.You want to full...

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    Toxic is always relative, especially in a closed system.Have fixed a few ammonia based fridges back in the day after they got dropped or similar and got a leak.It is even possible to do this without much stink and gas / vapours escaping - I prefer to put my ammonia in the freezer over night ;)The key is to "fill" the fridge system twice so to say.Ammonia always needs a tiny amount of water but you really need to get all air out the system first to prevent corrosion.A flush with Argon or Helium is a good idea ;)The first fill is with an open system and the concentrated ammonia/water solution.Then all is cooled down big time.The next "fill" is by bubbling ammonia through the reservoir, preferably under slight pressure to prevent air entering the system.You want to fully saturate the water with ammonia and fill the system with ammonia vapour - the fill level in the reservoir should then be leveled correctly or you have to go by weight and mol.It is far less critical as a compressor system in terms of overfilling but underfilling will give bad performance.I know the 12V compressors but for a few bucks more I prefer the liniar models as they use far less energy and are almost silent.Considering the prices I have a reason to go old school and with ammonia ;)No moving parts, no electricity, several options to actually heat the system.Ammonia based system were abandoned mainly due to safety concerns, especially in caravans and campers.A total failure in a home is almost unreal as these things prefer a slow coorosion from the outside.I do admit it still is not the best option for a safety concious mind but there are not too many options that wouldn require a compressor...Check the Icy Ball - those things never failed.... ;)

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  • Couldn't resist and did some visits to supermarkets and shops to check on ear buds.Turns out an awful lot does not come with any instructions on the packing and who reads the leaflet?And the designs can be confusing too.One that looks like over the ear actually fits the normal way as the long bit is angled and shaped.Quite a few however are designed to make a fitment error next to impossible.Their shape seems to make it really hard to put them in the wrong ear or wrong orientation.

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  • I tried some digging on the web and seems my idea is quite outdated already, at least in the modern world.We have many areas in this world where the people living there are at a dis-advantage.Be it the aftermath of war, femine or a non existing income for the country...Some people in these regions found ways to make even the worst of scrap and rubbish useful again.For example one poor but very inventive old guy build his own ammonia based cooler.But where the usual types have the reservoir to heat the stuff he made a custom flat container.To get the required safety margins under pressure he placed lots of short rods insdie to keep the sidewalls stable.Not sure if drilled holes in the plates and then welded it all up with the rods in place but it seemed to work fine.Ingenious was the use...

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    I tried some digging on the web and seems my idea is quite outdated already, at least in the modern world.We have many areas in this world where the people living there are at a dis-advantage.Be it the aftermath of war, femine or a non existing income for the country...Some people in these regions found ways to make even the worst of scrap and rubbish useful again.For example one poor but very inventive old guy build his own ammonia based cooler.But where the usual types have the reservoir to heat the stuff he made a custom flat container.To get the required safety margins under pressure he placed lots of short rods insdie to keep the sidewalls stable.Not sure if drilled holes in the plates and then welded it all up with the rods in place but it seemed to work fine.Ingenious was the use of a crystal ball - not for furtune telling though.Must have been some clear plastic and no clue where he found it ...As a sphere is a perfect lens in terms of angle the focussed beam heated up a suffiently big area of the box during the day at all times.According to his old school thermometer his contraption is able to get the inside of the fridge down to about 7° celsius - at an ambient temperature of around 35° C !And for the colder times he uses a simple kerosene lamp to supply the heat.As the fridge then needs far less energy anyways the fridge appearently makes it down to freezing temperatures once the ambient temps are below 20° C.Now I need to find an old ammonia fridge somewhere on the scrap or caravan second hand sites.With the lack of big spheres around here I guess I will have to settle for a bunch of slightly parabolic mirrors and a simple tracking system.But at least that way I can have the fridge in the shade :)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Kirbyotw's forum topic Ultra sonic flow meters1 day ago

    Depending on the enviroment and cable length interference can be an issue.Especially if the signal lines are close to other cables.Anything mains voltage or that has a modulated signal can cause your problems.We had it with other sensors and replaced whatever we could think off to no avail.Then one day a guy started swearing a bit too loud when the sensors failed and ruined the workpiece.After a few rounds of that another guy made the missing connection.For us the cause was an ultrasonic plastic welder, or to be precise it's electromagnetic holding clamps.The reverse protection diodes had failed and every time the clamps operated (or almost every time) the also missing earth connection on the fancy power supply caused a bad feedback in our mains lines.In the end we both fixed the diodes...

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    Depending on the enviroment and cable length interference can be an issue.Especially if the signal lines are close to other cables.Anything mains voltage or that has a modulated signal can cause your problems.We had it with other sensors and replaced whatever we could think off to no avail.Then one day a guy started swearing a bit too loud when the sensors failed and ruined the workpiece.After a few rounds of that another guy made the missing connection.For us the cause was an ultrasonic plastic welder, or to be precise it's electromagnetic holding clamps.The reverse protection diodes had failed and every time the clamps operated (or almost every time) the also missing earth connection on the fancy power supply caused a bad feedback in our mains lines.In the end we both fixed the diodes and power supply as well as adding additional filters for high EMF producing equippment.As a quick check you can try to add ferrite tubes over the signal cables, preferably with a loop of the wire going through instead of just a straight, single line.If that helps then you have EMF problems somewhere, maybe a loose contact or so.If it does not help at all then I suspect an intermittent failure of the computer.Double check that the power supply has a proper earth connection and that ALL connected equippment is grounded as well.For example modern switch mode power supplies can be a real pain in the behind.Connecting my external hard drive to power causes the monitor to make a single flash as its power supply is of the same kind and same outlet.Similar story for a lot of USB hubs.They fail to seperate the ground connections or at least have them filtered, instead it is a direct connection between ports, power supply, computer and connected things.

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  • You do know the difference between a radio and a radio?These days the terms fade a bit but if you want a walkie talkie then opt for something that is not a data transmitter but instead an audio transmitter.Sure, you can use some 32bit CPU, some code and digitise what comes in from a microphone.Compress the data in real time and let it run through a standard data transmission.But I guess there was a reason someone invented something as simple as walkie talkie...

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  • Are you sure you are using them correctly? ;)No offense, but some of these are actually designed so the cables go to the front and OVER your ear, then down where needed.This type will just fall out with the lightest movement if the cables just hang down directly as they pull the thing out.

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  • Downunder35m commented on labeed's forum topic TFT dashboard retrofit3 days ago

    I don't know why a filter is needed but assume it is just a fancy name for a splitter plug that provides the signals.If you have the pin layout of the new cluster (for the plug(s) and the cars can bus system it should be straight forward - if all is supported.

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  • A bit more precise please...Is nothing at all working, just something not working, what does still work?With a drop you can get anything from a contact problem over broken solder joints to actual cracks in the circuit board.In the worst case the microcontroll could fail if one or more faults cause big problem.If dropped while without power you should only have to deal with mechanically related issue from the impact.Do you have any equippment to test, like a multimeter?

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  • Downunder35m commented on labeed's forum topic TFT dashboard retrofit3 days ago

    Why then don't you start in the many Landrover forums?And depending where you are there is also legal issues to consider.Even if you have the new instruments: Does your oldie provide the correct wires and signals anywhere?

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  • Do it old school using Ohm's law or use one of these:http://led.linear1.org/1led.wizThe resistor defines the voltage drop AND limits the current to the right amount ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic The Newman Motor Challenge !4 days ago

    If I have now so nicely proven that the Newman motor could never actually work, then why bother to create a 3D printed model that everyone can experiment with?Did you check the "Big ureka" video already? ;)If the Newman motor used a rotating magnet between two coils then where does this massive drum come into play?That is not the point where the critics might start to hate me...We don't fully understand magnetic fields and their interactions or for that matter manipulations quite that good.Mostly because we have nothing invented yet to visualise magnet fields in real time or at least halfway accurate.But I already mentioned the resonant oscillator bit wih the axle...All copies of the Newman generator are based on the early drawings but not on the final Big Eureka machine.Here,...

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    If I have now so nicely proven that the Newman motor could never actually work, then why bother to create a 3D printed model that everyone can experiment with?Did you check the "Big ureka" video already? ;)If the Newman motor used a rotating magnet between two coils then where does this massive drum come into play?That is not the point where the critics might start to hate me...We don't fully understand magnetic fields and their interactions or for that matter manipulations quite that good.Mostly because we have nothing invented yet to visualise magnet fields in real time or at least halfway accurate.But I already mentioned the resonant oscillator bit wih the axle...All copies of the Newman generator are based on the early drawings but not on the final Big Eureka machine.Here, all of a sudden, we get a rotating drum but no longer a stack of magnets and two visible coils anywhere!The drum is a much larger capacitor and in series with the battery and coil.It is also a quite efficient flywheel as all the mass is outside.I wondered for quite a while how it would be possible to incorporate the original design with a rotating drum like Newman did.Of course the drum is now also the axle, otherwise it wouldn't need to rotate.The previously used magnet stack however could not work inside it.Unless of course we would reverse the entire action and align the magnets differently.Using coils mounted on the inside of the drum with a fixed magnet in the center would work the same way as rotating the magnet.But it wouldn't be too efficient.That close to the metal drum the coils would no longer form any usuable air coil system as the magnetic fields would prefer to use the metal as a shortcut.Aluminium would be an alternative at first glance until you consider that it would generate a lot of eddy currents interacting with the coils.BUT! If the magnets are mounted on the inside wall of the drum their magnetif field would be much stronger, especially if the drum is used to create to create poles cvering 180° of the hull.Then we would end up with an immensly strong magnetic field going through the coils.From my initial tests about 4 times as strong as with magnets rotating inside the coils and no magnetic shielding.And now we suddenly can also match the coil dimensions and positions to how and where the field lines of the magnets go!Means we can place the coils at the exact same distance as the highest flux zone going from north to south pole.In return we get a much more instant switching between the corresponding fields as even tiny changes of the magnets positions will already cuase relatively high responses from the coils.Same when the contact is closed.Here the magnets and drum would be positioned at the point where a reversal of the electromacnetic field would have the greatest effect.IMHO this point would be when the magnets flux sone has just passed the horizone line of the coils.My initial tests here show that a 1/4 ratio here is beneficial.Not going into Tesla on the why here, but have to explain it somehow...We need harmonics for this system to work as advertised and no simple model can do this properly.If you know a bit about HAM radio then you know the 1/4 ratio is very common for all sorts of antennas.For us it is on so far two levels:The coils and drum form a resonant oscillator.That means our magnet must be timed in sync with these harmonics.The easiest way to do this seems to be forcefully.Newman and others stated quite often that we normal sientists will never understand magnets properly.And those who ever tried to understand what Tesla did with his transformers still fail to fully understand it.So lets just go with the flow and do the thinking like these old guys and just assume magnets and their fields actually work a bit differently than what we learned in school.If the coils are dimensioned and positioned so that the magnetic field passes the outside at an angle close to 90° we get the 1/4 we need.So really flat and wide coils wouldn't work, too stumpy and you have the magnet right on 90° and it become very tricky to get any decent contact timing done.Ideally the magnet would reach exactly 90° at the same moment the contact opens again.The elecromagnetic pulse would then act like the spark plug igniting the mix in the clylinder and all power goes into the down stroke of the piston.According to Some in Newman's machine the magnet pulls the voltage and current generated by coils out of phase.It also creates more electromagnetic fields in the coils.You can check this nice on some oscilloscope and by wiggling a magnet inside a coil at different angles.As we have no core material the electromagnetic field would be pulled along with the magnet.This continues until the interacting fields are no longer strong enough and the effect reverses.And like switching off a coil it would create and electric impulse at this moment.Since our rotor is in sync this energy adds up.Like a Tesla coil with a magnet instead of a primary coil...The really interesting part is now the drum again.Like in a Tesla transformer it is our "topload".And like in a modern ignition coil the impulse set loose when the contact closes is forced through the axle inside - against the magnetic field generated in it!When the contact opens both the impulse and magetic field collapse here.Since only a fraction of energy could make it back to the battery or capacitor it explains why the machine can not run without an external power supply.With the system in sync we not only get a quite high DC resistance but also the correct polarity for our connected battery.Explains nice why the motor runs at fixed voltages from the batteries but never from something like an adjustable power supply ;)It is much harder to explain why you wouldn't increase the voltage slowly.(You would need to time the increase with the rotation as otherwise it too obvious what really happens here)Check the videos closely and you notice he does not choose the voltages randomly!Ok, then, how would the real deal have worked back in the day?A normal motor always has a lot of waste to deal with.Be it the brushes, bearings, magnetic binding effects and so on.On top we have the problem with the core materials and contruction.We aim for maximum efficiency in a way our understanding of science allows us.We FORCE things to fit.Newmans motor however goes the exact opposite way.Where a normal motor generates a lot of heat due to the high current involved, it only deals with voltages and resonances in an air coil system.What would otherwise be seen as loss of magnetic flux density is now a resonant system in itself.The beauty of it seems to be that it is kept in resonance mainly by the magnet...Being resonant also means there is no need for massive wires to handle insane currents.We only need to be able to create a suffiently strong electromagnetic field.I leave it up to your imagination if a few turns of copper pipe or a lot of turns of wire are the better options ;)All we have is a little friction and some other losses but in return we have a big flywheel that can storee a lot of energy.The last question or puzzle to solve would be how the capacitor drum reacts with the magnetic fields.We know that we can affect electrons with magnetic fields, otherwise we would have never had analog TV's...Wouldn't that in return mean that charging a massive magnet causes a majory of the electrons to move onto one side? ;)Is it then coincidence that the contact is directed from the coil, through the inner (and insulated) axle and the out through the drum?Let's consider this option for a second...In the moment the contact closes we would not just discharge the coil but also the capacitor.The collapsing field drives the magnet away, the current of the coil however is out of phase at that moment - by 180° or close around it.When the contact opens we have short on the capacitor removed, causing a short for the coil in terms of accepting the stored energy and getting it into the empty capacitor.Means in reality we remove the electromagnetic resistance from the magnet as the coil now can use the out of phase current together with the newly generated voltage from the rotation.Instead of building up a huge force against the rotating magnet this force will be at max when the magnet switches the magnetic field in the coils around by its position.Now the capacitor drum gets a massive burst and the same cycle as before happens again, just this time with the voltage.The cycle continues and the motor only needs from the batteries what is required to overcome friction and electrical losses.But no longer what would be required to overvome magnetic binding forces, saturation and losses caused by the air gaps plus a few more.Newman proved this concept to be true by stating that only the size of Big Eureka and the strengh of the magnets matter.If all those "fringe scientists" are correct on their understanding of magnets and their fields then we are indeed going the wrong wroute in terms of creating motion from electricity or electricity from motion.We desire the strongest magnetic fields at the lowest input cost to make a motor move.But we also desire a very compact form factor for this.Meant we learned to compromise and use the current understanding of things to improve.A very often used phrase in this content is "The perfect AC motor is actually a DC motor!"Tesla invented AC for us but I think only to solve the problem of distributing electricity and having a source for his projects that later all required AC to work at all.An asyncronous AC motor for example "drags" a magnet along - the rotor.The megnetic field in this rotor is generated by the field of the electromagnetic coils.And ideally we would love to have the rotor is sync with the field.In reality it always runs a bit slower and the higher the load the slower it gets.In return the input power needs to increase and more heat is generated through losses.As said we learned to accept that we need much more input power than what we can expect in output as it is impossible to create the perfect motor.Sadly this impossible meant we gave up on trying to improve or change the concepts we learned so far.It was more convinient for everyone involved to keep it that way.

    Even if we never get a new Newman machine by online order, we can still try to understand and learn from it!A single inventor might always fail to get his machine on the market.He would at least need the money back to build the damn thing for you in the first place, then labour, and so on.And lets face it, if it is close enough to be impossible then it will disappear.But no longer if all over the world people start to follow and make improvements.Try what their limits allow and share what they know and developed so far.You can silence one, but try to silence that went viral, to make a link to our favourite video platform...Sooner or later there will be someone with enough money and interest and that person provides a few fully working machines to keen people thinking like the person for...

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    Even if we never get a new Newman machine by online order, we can still try to understand and learn from it!A single inventor might always fail to get his machine on the market.He would at least need the money back to build the damn thing for you in the first place, then labour, and so on.And lets face it, if it is close enough to be impossible then it will disappear.But no longer if all over the world people start to follow and make improvements.Try what their limits allow and share what they know and developed so far.You can silence one, but try to silence that went viral, to make a link to our favourite video platform...Sooner or later there will be someone with enough money and interest and that person provides a few fully working machines to keen people thinking like the person for free.Like the chinese people would start to copy it, build it in the garage...Before anyone could step in the electricity providers would fail to make any money from us.... ;)Shortly after fossil fuels would only be for someone who still loves to drive his oldtimer on the roads...The question is not if we can have free energy, only when everyone will have it ;)

    Just to satisfy the cirtics a bit:What we know from old documents, videos and so on does not show all the little details of Newman's invention.And if you ever checked a standard DV motor with brushes then you certainly notice the similarities.The main difference is that no core material is used, just air and that the thing also only has one contact for the coil, the other one is directly connected to the axle.No matter how often you watch the videos, if you see the machine starting one majory problem emerges.Unless the battery provides power the system only works if something actually spins it.The battery can only provide energy for a split second through the contact area on the axle.If you do some checks with a model you realise quite quickly that the coil would provide just a tiny imp...

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    Just to satisfy the cirtics a bit:What we know from old documents, videos and so on does not show all the little details of Newman's invention.And if you ever checked a standard DV motor with brushes then you certainly notice the similarities.The main difference is that no core material is used, just air and that the thing also only has one contact for the coil, the other one is directly connected to the axle.No matter how often you watch the videos, if you see the machine starting one majory problem emerges.Unless the battery provides power the system only works if something actually spins it.The battery can only provide energy for a split second through the contact area on the axle.If you do some checks with a model you realise quite quickly that the coil would provide just a tiny impulse that creates and opposing magnetic field to push the magetes on the rotor away.Hook a small motor with a crank system to a wheel and you ca observe how it gets a little kick every time the motor touches wheel.But to get it spinning at all you would need a longer impulse as otherwise the wheel might not spin far enough to engage the motor again.Through the mass and at enough RPM this pulsing effect would minimise but it won't at low RPM's.They key that is missing is what is required to actually get the Newman motor working at all.Model replicas use very low friction bearings and quite high operating voltages.A coil with thick wire might produce more amps but no usable voltage.Too many turns and the resistance is so high that you need to increase the voltage to generate a sufficiently strong field.Imagine pushing a kid on a swing with just one finger and you can only push the finger for 2cm each time.Will be quite hard to give the little one a decent fun time.No toy sized model I ever tested did more than to run for a long time on a battery - without any load applied.Add a load and it either stops or the battery drains really quick.I think it would make sense to try a visualisation of the currents, voltages and magnetic fields.The battery is pretty clear for the providing side of things, unclear on how much, if any juice is actually going back in it.But the coil...We not only have two air coils that are seperated but also a magnetic field between and inside them that rotates.In an open air coil system voltages can build up through harmonics.That is how for example, a Tesla transformer can produce such high voltages.We however have a capicotr missing for this.And doing this just with two coils is a damn hard task as just calculating coils for a specific harmonic frequency is a true pain in the behind.The axle however could be seen a capacitor with a really low capacitance.To make this in any form usable the timing is extremely tricky.The contact to close the system needs to happen exactly when the power output from this resonant oscillator is at max level AND when the rotating magnet is at the exact right position to be replelled.At least this explains why there is just one contact and the half of the rotating mating seems to be unused.I have to assume the effects of the electromagnetic field and the rotating magnet are somehow influencing each other.To say it like some of the old folks would have:The magnet pulls the electromagnetic field with it while the generated voltages remain in the coil.

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  • It might not be that simple.Check the Arduino Playground for some examples.I would start with one routine just for the buttons and the potentiometer.In there you assign variables according to the input.The second routine does the actual work.Here you use the variables to define the output - the LED.In the Playground you should find examples on how to run two or more task at the same time using interrupts orby including other code for example.The later works by just calling the code by "include codename.h" or whatever you specify for it.For PWM control of a LED you will find plenty of usable examples from simple to complex.Doing it all in just one code block is certainly possible too.Pretty much similar to the above, assing the intup to variables and after that have the rest de...

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    It might not be that simple.Check the Arduino Playground for some examples.I would start with one routine just for the buttons and the potentiometer.In there you assign variables according to the input.The second routine does the actual work.Here you use the variables to define the output - the LED.In the Playground you should find examples on how to run two or more task at the same time using interrupts orby including other code for example.The later works by just calling the code by "include codename.h" or whatever you specify for it.For PWM control of a LED you will find plenty of usable examples from simple to complex.Doing it all in just one code block is certainly possible too.Pretty much similar to the above, assing the intup to variables and after that have the rest deal with output.Key is not to make it too long and to include checks to eliminate someone pressing more than one button at once for example.

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  • A thing people often forget is that a rectifier is also sort of an isolator.Whatever comes out of your rectifiers can not really go back into another one due to the polarity of the diodes.The real problem starts with the load on the system.The big wind turbines work by providing a syncronised and matching AC voltage to the grid.So the load requirements can be neglected as it is designed to be a one way system anyway.In your case however it would mean that under enough load some generators will struggle.Imagine you are drawing about 5kW.Means ideally each generator would supply a bit of 1kW.Any generator running lower than that will get a far greater load until the overall demand is low enough again.I was thinking for about 4 hours to come with a quick and simple solution - something I u...

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    A thing people often forget is that a rectifier is also sort of an isolator.Whatever comes out of your rectifiers can not really go back into another one due to the polarity of the diodes.The real problem starts with the load on the system.The big wind turbines work by providing a syncronised and matching AC voltage to the grid.So the load requirements can be neglected as it is designed to be a one way system anyway.In your case however it would mean that under enough load some generators will struggle.Imagine you are drawing about 5kW.Means ideally each generator would supply a bit of 1kW.Any generator running lower than that will get a far greater load until the overall demand is low enough again.I was thinking for about 4 hours to come with a quick and simple solution - something I usually don't for a reply here...But then it really hit me hard!There is a dirt simple but slightly costly solution to your problem!Since you are running a 48V supply system you can use solar charge controllers after each rectifier!These only allow a current draw that the source can handle.So if one generator is happy to provide 2kW, one 1.5kW and the rest just 800w, then these solar charge controllers will spread the load so each generator is running without overload conditions.The simple models have a fixed setup, the more expensive models can be bought with an adjustable input current limit.Makes a lot of sense if you create your own solar system and want to go cheap on the panels then these controllers set the limits that are otherwise regulated directly within the panels.Ebay can provide you with some chinese models at low cost to try.Only downside is that you require 50amp controllers, those are not the usual standard for the cheap ones as they only go to about 20A.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Ha_mido's forum topic Arduin4 days ago

    Yes you can.

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  • Downunder35m commented on christ479's forum topic Webcam module pins layout4 days ago

    Contact HP support and hope you get a lucky day.Laptop stuff usually does not come with any specs at all.

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  • I highly doubt it should be a resistor!A fuse would make more sense.Having said that, a resistor in this location would most likely act as a current limiter.From a 3.7V cell to get about 2 Amps out that resistor would need to be below 2 Ohm already.More like a shunt really.If the power bank has a higher battery voltage then the resistor would be a bit higher in value.For a 3.7V battery I and assuming the output is only good for 1A on the USB ports I would start with a 10 Ohm wired resistor of at least 1W.Check the output and if way below specs reduce the resistor to about 5 Ohm )2 10 Ohm parallel for example).From there same procedure until you end up wih the stated output current.

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  • If cleaning alone won't work, try some of the first 10 hits from here.http://bfy.tw/Mmkm

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic The Newman Motor Challenge !6 days ago

    That is why I am making a small 3D printed model ;)Basic 8mm smooth rod from printer left overs, two bearings, bobbins for coils and of course a holder for the magnets.Allows for easy building and gives still the freedom to tinker a bit.Will have to some tests if with PLA the bearings are really necessary, should be good enough without.Anyone who can 3D print somehow can then just do their own little tests.Won't have any fancy shielding or such, just the plain basics.More might come when I have time to update the general model I have.

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  • Start by just measuring the resistence of the affected button in comparison to the working ones.I suspect that the same rubber and graphite combo is used as on the remote.If the resistance on the working buttons is quite low but extreme high on the faulty ones:Take the pads off and clean both surface carefully with soapy water - preferably in a controlled way like using cotton buds or similar.Test again and if still no good check the tutorials on how to repair faulty buttons on remote controls - or ask here again ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic The Newman Motor Challenge !8 days ago

    What's it really about with the 2020 version?Some "fringe scientists" a long time ago stated that an AC motor is actually just a really, really bad DC motor.If only gets its efficiency from the fact that the electromagnetic field is rotating.Their theory is that it is nothing than a rotating electromagnet.And those can be far more efficient than anything AC.If you check the magnetic fields from a standard Newman Motor's permanent magnet then it is the same as any other magnet.At least for the official drawings.The real deal did not use such a simple configuration but instead has several magnets aligned to produced a choked field.In essence a ring magnet with another magnet inside that is of opposing polarity but weaker than the rest.The resulting "dome is then flattened q...

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    What's it really about with the 2020 version?Some "fringe scientists" a long time ago stated that an AC motor is actually just a really, really bad DC motor.If only gets its efficiency from the fact that the electromagnetic field is rotating.Their theory is that it is nothing than a rotating electromagnet.And those can be far more efficient than anything AC.If you check the magnetic fields from a standard Newman Motor's permanent magnet then it is the same as any other magnet.At least for the official drawings.The real deal did not use such a simple configuration but instead has several magnets aligned to produced a choked field.In essence a ring magnet with another magnet inside that is of opposing polarity but weaker than the rest.The resulting "dome is then flattened quite a bit and the field strength is at a max where the coils are.Take a meter and check yourself - on the edges your permanent magnet has a much stronger field.You can only do so much choking and shielding on a hobby level....But imagine the created field lines are flat enough to allow 3 more coil sets without interfering.Then the main arguement would be that we have three additional drains on the battery/capacitor...Is that so?You see in the original design, that everyone follows, the battery only activates once per revolution.As it is quite easily possible to add another battery and set of conection we could and should actually work like a double piston system.Why just use the push once if we can use two batteries and a push at both magnet positions? ;)You might say now because that other impulse we get from the reversed field without contact will charge the capacitor.Again: The battery only connects at the contact point.Means that revers pulse is totally unused!The second battery not only provides twice the torque but also a more uniform "pushing" - like having one person pushing you either side on a swing.The worst critics say Newman did exactly that with a hidden and quite powerful battery...With the same principle we could place four more coils into the gaps.And even with just a simple diode recitifier stack we would get some nice output going.The key is to use fast diodes so the short impulse through the contacts can be fully utilised.And of course you will need a suitable energy storage system capable of handling high current impulses, like the upcoming graphene batteries."Big Eureka" was running at quite low speeds for obvious reasons, like that such home made stuff simply is not balanced enough.It also used normal batteries that can't really handle quick impulses very well.Our modern alternatives do much better here.In all videos you see that the RPM's go along with the battery voltage.And it seems there no relation as such to the current drawn in return.A normal motor requires more and more amps the faster it runs, Newmans did not.To apply some vortex ideas and out of the law thinking we need to go one step further though.Some people really like to play with high voltages, so a Tesla coil might be something you already played with, or one of these plasma balls.The simple ones use basic oscillators.And if those are tuned to the RESONANT frequency of the coil then the magic happens with long arcs of fun.Hold on a minute....We have a coil and a capacitor.So we might have some LC oscillator...Too bad we have those pesky contacts and no freely swinging oscillator...But we could use the additional coils and matching capacitors for this.And if we drive the input voltage so we match the resonant frequency of our newly created LC oscillators....The the critic of course has to reply: "You will slow the motor down because the megnetic field from the oscillators will interfere with it!"I say: "Will it?"In reality the field from the magnet will affect them much worse - or would the oscillators in resonance actually support it? ;)Think about the facts of using multiple harmonics from different energy sources!In resonance the additional coils create a rotating electromagnetic field.And this field is in sync with the rotor.A shielded magnet will not be affected by this rotating field.As long as the rest of the system acts like an air core transformer we only need to get enough RPM to make it into frequencies commonly used for Tesla coils...A good engineer could then go as far as to add a rotating ring of magnets on the outside of the coils to generate an even higher magnetic flux from the permanent magnets on the inner rotor.Like commonly used for hard drives or the generators i wind mills.Newman officially did not usitlise any of the above.Instead he even claimed it would not improve the performance at all.This was based on his theory of sinning "particles" in the magnetic field of permanent magnets.The system would only work if the coils would be free.If Newmans motor really had the efficiency those old engineers in the original videos claimed it had, than how much higher would it be if fully modified?Maybe Newman simply did not dare to go that far as then a motor without a load would spinout of control quickly.And how would you explain to someone that you have no issues breaking our known laws of physics? ;)Since we operate in resonance the coils wouldn't really need to have have massive wire diameters.Litz wire will do just fine for a small model and copper piping for a bigger model.The limit is really only set by how far you can go with your magnets and tolerances.And far here in terms of real distance for the magnetic field.Like any big generator in the real world you would need to upsize the magnet according to your coil diameter.Vortex stuff comes into play when you consider the relations between all fields and rotation of the system as whole.The coils must be within the region of maximum flux.So, the thickness of our donut ring is limited by this.If you max this out AND have the ability to also max the resulting electromagnetic pulse, then even I currently fail to even imagine the efficiency of such a system.Why the powered axle??It would be as easy to use some insulator and a contact finger like on old car ignition systems.Battery contact on one side, the coil contact on the other.Well, this secret can only be found if you dig much deeper and into older inventions.Or if you check modern ingnition coils, the ones that go directly onto your spark plug.The core is supported by strong magnets on either end and creates a long rod magnet.The generated impulse then must first "pull" down the pre-charged coil, preferably to the point where the geerated field in the primary equals the one from the permanent magnets.When it collpses the core "pushes" back and increases the speed of the field change and the overall field strength.And you get a much more powerfull spark from a tiny coil than what you could ever get out of a standard , full sized old style coil.Newmans theory was now that by getting the battery power through the axle the impulse from the coil will add energy to it in the same way but "reversed".It magnetises the axle.And this magnetisation is often overlooked in modern copies.There is a reason a Newman Motor won't work if you spin it in the other direction ;)For us and any decent sized motor it is the ultimate limitation.The axle must be able to allow a shortcut for the field without getting saturated.Final questions for the geeks:Considering the field from the magnet at the point of contact, how would the resulting field in the axle look like?And how would electrons travel in such a twisted field considering they start to travel at the creation of the impulse from the coil?If it works in one direction for an ignition coil, than what would be consequences for the current- and voltage flow in the axle?Physics tells us we can not accelerate electrons in a conductor, they always travel at the speed of light.But do they really follow that rule all the time?And if we consider the coil would be like like one half of a transformer and the axle the other then we would get quite some high currents and a very low voltage....So what again would happen to a magnetic field if a conductor in it has a current flowing through it?Right, the field of our permanent magnet is now affected and twisted as well...Calculate that spin and the resulting twist and funny enough you end up with the geometry for a Rodin coil...I leave it up to you to find out if a rodin coil around a Newman 2020 motor would produce electricity and at what power levels.

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  • Check Theromofisher,com for example...

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  • As already said so nicely you only need common ground.Without batteries a capacitor or LC combo is only required if the power supply has a bad output quality.Wiring and coding examples can be found in the Arduino Playground - just ask Google and then check the many available example for your needs.

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  • Downunder35m commented on thecountrychick's forum topic Plans9 days ago

    If you mean something more detailed or complete than the Instructable you found then chances are low.All can be downloaded as a PDF but it still only contains what you see on the screen anyway.

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  • That actually still works on the neodymium ones.Partially that is.If you heat them up the loose it, but if placed hot between two other strong magnets they get magnetized again.

    Quite old in terms of the original video but it shows how complicated energy really is...

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  • Just use a reed contact and magnet ;)Like for these speedos on push bikes.Any moving part on the driveline will do.Just don't mount the magnet close to the ABS discs if your car already has ABS.Readout gives one impulse or "closed" contact per revolution.If mounted on some axle then the same calculations as for these bike speedos apply in terms of wheel diameter and turn ratios.Of course you can just a GPS and read out the impulses per second or millisecond at a fixed speed and go from there.Another neat way is a a magnet mounted where the speedo cable originates.What is easier depends on locations and accessebility of course.

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  • Downunder35m commented on pmk222's forum topic Flexible arm material10 days ago

    Look at monitor or TV mounts with an arm, the good ones come with a "ball" mount.Basically just a pot with a hole that is a bit smaller than the ball.The pressure from the screws on the plat fixes it in place - or keeps it slightly movable for adjustments.Should be possible to make one if you don't want to buy one.

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  • Before you going into things consider that the distance from the head to the paper is not much more than what the paper is thick.A shoe is far from flar or even, so you would need something like whats used in the industry to make the date stamps on bottles or cans.But those only know one color and a few pixel.Have a look at water painting, ebro art and such.Here the picture is create or placed on water, the part then submerged through that paint layer.Takes the paint and it goes all way around no matter the shape.Easiest approch however would be to make some stencils and to use a fine airbrush gun ;)

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  • Not sure if it is feasable for your project but:Back in the day I had a similar problem on a machine, different production though...For us the main problem was that the sensors failed far too early as the problem exceeded the specs for the enviroment.Was about 20 sensors later until a combined brainstorming of people having no clue about it found the solution.Final solution was construct a "bypass pipe".Basically the air to be monitored was pumped through long pipe loop.The sensor was mounted where the inside temp was low enough for the sensor to operate properly while still high enough to prevent any condensation.For just humidity though it is also possible to use ceramic sensor plates.Basically just some metal strips close to each other with the ceramic being like a absorben...

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    Not sure if it is feasable for your project but:Back in the day I had a similar problem on a machine, different production though...For us the main problem was that the sensors failed far too early as the problem exceeded the specs for the enviroment.Was about 20 sensors later until a combined brainstorming of people having no clue about it found the solution.Final solution was construct a "bypass pipe".Basically the air to be monitored was pumped through long pipe loop.The sensor was mounted where the inside temp was low enough for the sensor to operate properly while still high enough to prevent any condensation.For just humidity though it is also possible to use ceramic sensor plates.Basically just some metal strips close to each other with the ceramic being like a absorbent sponge.Only problem is that most of them are not linear and quite costly.

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  • By "supressing" I mean that the few real ones are flodded by the amount of fake ones.And I remember the times where people used their own song collections to provide music, now even your radio playing in the background can cause a take down.Still tons of definately copyrighted videos are out there, TV shows, documentaries and so on.A lot is "tolerated" as long as it brings views.I can't upload y video that conatains about 15 sec of a song playing the radio in the kitchen but some older ones that contain full songs are still online.Comes down to the algorithms, same for flipping videos to avoid detection as a copy.Try it ;) Take a popular video that you can not reupload as a copy, crop one side a few pixels then mirror it vertically - the upload will be accepted LOLTh...

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    By "supressing" I mean that the few real ones are flodded by the amount of fake ones.And I remember the times where people used their own song collections to provide music, now even your radio playing in the background can cause a take down.Still tons of definately copyrighted videos are out there, TV shows, documentaries and so on.A lot is "tolerated" as long as it brings views.I can't upload y video that conatains about 15 sec of a song playing the radio in the kitchen but some older ones that contain full songs are still online.Comes down to the algorithms, same for flipping videos to avoid detection as a copy.Try it ;) Take a popular video that you can not reupload as a copy, crop one side a few pixels then mirror it vertically - the upload will be accepted LOLThe ads are another story though.There is days when it seems to be impossible to watch any video without first getting an ad, especially when using the client and not the browser.Sure, really not everything qualifies for an ad but I also had 1 minute videos without ads that still required me to watch 10 secs of ad before it even started.Location again I guss as friends overseas report different findings or worse depending on the country or proxy used.And funny enough there is still some good guys out there who post long videos and reject any ads being shown, no matter the view count.Thing is though Youtube is Google and search works quite similar.Finding a video that does exist but had little interest so far can often be next to impossible unless you know the exact title or URL already.All I say is that every year it becomes harder to find real information without being side tracked by endless amounts of realted fakery.If it would be baking then you would would see tons of stuff telling you how to bake cakes and bread without using any water, milk or flour LOLAnd to raise the dough we would only need a specially designed bowl but no yeast or baking powder ROFL

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  • I ,like some other already tried to create feedback, bug reports and suggestions.Sadly the response from the support is still a hit and miss.No sticky for any of this either, so finding information on what was reported or suggested already goes missing too.Only real thing that might still work is to contact the support directly by Email.Be as precise as possible and include as much information on the problem as possible.Like OS, browser, what exactly went wrong or fails to work at all.If you get a reply that is not automated you know you did what you could.

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  • Downunder35m commented on HiveA's forum topic Wifi Mesh11 days ago

    Depends on material, size, interference, requirements - you want me to guess? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Robert1234567's forum topic Cat grooming frame/scaffold12 days ago

    You can't contain a cat for that it will only make it worse.The key is to make the cat like the procedure.Worked for my cats ;)

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  • For the screen:You will need to make suitable brackets on the metal frame of the TV.That is the part INSIDE the plastic frame.Sometimes you are lucky and use the holes for some mounts of the plastic housing if they go through holes in the frame.For the rest:Consider to make seperate housings for all devices with a small cooling fan.Some foam strips on the sides could then keep the devices secured in their housing.The housings itself you can fix to the box as all is removable now.Add a cover behing the TV with vent holes on one side and a fan on the other side, preferably blowing the air right out the box.With that you will be able to remove and heat inside, just include suffient venting for the housings and devices inside so outside air will be sucked in around them.

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  • It the same priciple that used on magnetic hinges.There is a new type that "locks" the door or panel in a fixed position.We had them on some equippment last year until they started to collect too much debris.As a toy however this is quite neat!Since you already made one:Ever wondered what happens to this nice effect if you shield the small magnets? ;)I mean a ferromagnetic ring over both sides of the small magnets.Although I have to say it works best if the distance between the magnets is smaller then their diameter.You would end up with a ring magnet ;)And the principle of combining magnets with opposing poles is just one clue on how to make a magnetmotor working.Find the other three and you got yourself a magnetmotor running :)

    I am currently working on simplifying a very old design.The original uses a lot of brass, push rods and springs.Has a patent, is claimed to work but requires constant care and oiling.And of course the output is barely enough to keep it running let alone to power some tiny generator.I am hoping to eliminate the moving parts for the magnets as well as the brass by using a 3D printed model and some modifications.Should be possible to reduce the magnet count down to under 200 as well.While experimenting with a small version that was just meant to check alignments I noticed a very strage effect and Liquidhandwash posted a nice toy that comes close to this effect.In the right combination and using the correct distances you can create what I call a null-field.Right at that point of null the ma...

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    I am currently working on simplifying a very old design.The original uses a lot of brass, push rods and springs.Has a patent, is claimed to work but requires constant care and oiling.And of course the output is barely enough to keep it running let alone to power some tiny generator.I am hoping to eliminate the moving parts for the magnets as well as the brass by using a 3D printed model and some modifications.Should be possible to reduce the magnet count down to under 200 as well.While experimenting with a small version that was just meant to check alignments I noticed a very strage effect and Liquidhandwash posted a nice toy that comes close to this effect.In the right combination and using the correct distances you can create what I call a null-field.Right at that point of null the magnetic field lines cancel each other out.But unlike soundwaves this happens by diverting the field lines.There is no real use for this that I found so far unless you could create a coil that fits in this null-field.Then and in a rotating assembly you would not get two polarity changes in the coil when the magnets go past each other but four.And like in modern ignition coils the magnetic pulse created would be much stronger because the field from the magnets is overcome and "reversed" in that area twice.In something like the impossible magnetmotor however the effect can be utilised to overcome the binding forces that otherwise would stop the motor.The momentum of the rotor pushes past the first binding point but them the resersal of the magnetic field in that area will push the rotor out by cancelling the binding moment.Accurate timing and distance is the key, plus of coure the right amount of mass in the rotor.Too much and it won't have enough force to accelerate enough, too little and the binding force will get it stuck.So how would one go these days if he wanted to build a magnetmotor?Starting linear is always good but also brings the problem of transfering it accurately into a round model.Starting with a flat ring is a good compromise.Be it a turntable or a model railway track loop...Creating something that pulls the moving part in is easy, keeping it moving a bit harder.Always keep in mind that the final thing has no start and no end!Most people use just 3 repetitions in their assembly.Might work if you have a high speed camera and analyse the frames to detect where and when things slow down - but it is very time consuming.5 to 6 repetitions however should show you an ongoing acceleration until the moving part shoots out of the end.If works sometimes or when starting from some specific point then you are still fighting higher binding forces than what the system can overcome.If in doubt experiment with some added weight ;)Whatever idea you come up with:1. It won't work with just plain magnets in a row or similar - you always need a modified start and end that matches.2. You will need to combine magnets in weird combinations or machine your own shapes from ferrite block magnets.3. If you can create linear motion from various starting points in a segment then consider what you do where to reduce the binding effect.Hint: Shielding and shaping the magnetic fields ;)4. Only consider additional magnets in other places than where it binds as a last resort!Shaping the magnetic fields is far mor effective and minimises the amount of magnets required.5. If you are linear: Ever considered a ramp for your moving part? ;)Like an arch bridge you can overcome binding forces if the momentum is high enough and the "bridge" increases the distance where it binds most.The toy video posted can give you vital hints here!

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  • Downunder35m commented on Disasterific's forum topic Digital blood pressure monitor 13 days ago

    Nope.The pumps used are designed to provide positive pressure only.In theory you could try modify the mechanism or revers the valve but it leaves the problem of the design.Get a cheap vacuum food sealer, they are far from perfect but at least offer a half decent vacuum.For anything that should come close to a real vacuum and not just low pressure you would need a proper pump though.To get bubbles out of resin the above should work.

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  • All recent versions of Autocad will let you open and export DWG files.You can find a basic tutorial for that here:https://tutorial45.com/convert-dwg-to-stl/However, this process will fail if the DWG file is made badly.Unless it is fully "watertight" and solid it simply can not be converted.The informations must match for a success.Sadly a lot of programs are great for 3D design with no regards to any after use.For them it only needs to look good on the screen or a print.Only real solution to desging from the start with a program that is capable of handling the tast from start to finnish.Or to design in such a way that you can export at least parts of the creation in a proper way.I can not import or open the file you attached, so either it is far too bad or not compatible with ...

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    All recent versions of Autocad will let you open and export DWG files.You can find a basic tutorial for that here:https://tutorial45.com/convert-dwg-to-stl/However, this process will fail if the DWG file is made badly.Unless it is fully "watertight" and solid it simply can not be converted.The informations must match for a success.Sadly a lot of programs are great for 3D design with no regards to any after use.For them it only needs to look good on the screen or a print.Only real solution to desging from the start with a program that is capable of handling the tast from start to finnish.Or to design in such a way that you can export at least parts of the creation in a proper way.I can not import or open the file you attached, so either it is far too bad or not compatible with anything I have at my disposal.More options with other programs are listed here:http://www.cimetrixsolutions.com/downloads/SSYS-BP...Without knowing how bad your file is I can only suggest you check for what you have in soldid objects and then try to use them for what comes next.But I assume you won't heve enough to go with, at least no if you want something that is close what you have as a DWG.There are tools, even online, that claim to be able to repair your 3D files but from my experience they fail if most the object is incomplete.

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  • Downunder35m commented on BubbaCaz's forum topic Removing Warts14 days ago

    If it grows back hard then it could be a sign it is growing back.Had troubles years ago after getting infected in a hotel spa.One was particular nasty as it started to grow inwards so to say and in a spot not properly checked by the doc.With all the pain from the surrounding and removed warts it was quite late diagnosed.The doc tried the freeze method first to remove what he could.Two weeks later it was decided to do an ongoing treatment with acid.When it runed out to be too far done it had to be surgically removed.And I mention this because because I think mine appeared like yours.Mainly just a really hard area but flat, not itching or otherwise irritating.Well until the hard skin becomes the irritating factor and grows out.Some warts love to embed themself in very bad tissue - bad for...

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    If it grows back hard then it could be a sign it is growing back.Had troubles years ago after getting infected in a hotel spa.One was particular nasty as it started to grow inwards so to say and in a spot not properly checked by the doc.With all the pain from the surrounding and removed warts it was quite late diagnosed.The doc tried the freeze method first to remove what he could.Two weeks later it was decided to do an ongoing treatment with acid.When it runed out to be too far done it had to be surgically removed.And I mention this because because I think mine appeared like yours.Mainly just a really hard area but flat, not itching or otherwise irritating.Well until the hard skin becomes the irritating factor and grows out.Some warts love to embed themself in very bad tissue - bad for you that is.Especially if one was not fully removed this can cause them to go very deep into your tissue.You can try the usual after care options assuming you just have to deal with some badly growing skin.Soaking the are until you get the granny look on your skin should soften it enough to see what is going on.Just skin will appear white and be quite soft then.If a wart is still hiding under there then only the top layer of that hard sking will be softened.The tissues underneath will appear more like aforeign object in your skin.If so then your best option is to go back to your doc and discuss option to a proper removal.Last but not least there are these over the counter remedies...The freezing stuff might help to some extend but only for warts that are not going too deep.Those tinktures based on salicylic acid and similar do work but required patience and time - plus a great deal of care to avoid destroying the healthy tissue around the wart.The later can be tricky if it is going to deep.In some countries you can still get these wart sticks - a dark brown or black wax like substance.Those act like a strong acid and they are banned in many contries due to their side effects on the healthy tissue and of course because they can be harmful if they enter the blood stream where too much damage was done.Handle with care and if in doubt select a doctor with some expertise on the matter.

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  • Downunder35m commented on TamurT's forum topic Help me design the Circuit,16 days ago

    Look for a "step down converter".Or "DC DC converter".Some come with a fixed output voltage but most are adjustable, just check before buying.These things turn a wide range of input voltage into a fixed output voltage.No need to limit the current coming from the batteries as the router will only take what it needs.You might want to add a larger size electrolytic capacitor to the output of the converter to minimise interferences.2200µF or bigger should do.

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  • I had a nice discussion and experimenting time today with a good friend of mine.Unlike me he made all the up to a degree and does real studies on things for money now.He stated that I can not take a bunch of magnets and create a new one without an weak spots between them.His showoff was to join about 10 disk magnets to a cylindrical magnet.Like that there is the north and south pole at the ends and the rest acts like a single magnet.Although on the field viewing sheet you could see where the magnets touched there was no difference in feel to a similar cyclindrical magnet from one piece.The he used some layers of carboard to seperate them with even spacing.As expected you could really feel where one magnet was and where a gap was.He was happy to have made a point and that his theory as c...

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    I had a nice discussion and experimenting time today with a good friend of mine.Unlike me he made all the up to a degree and does real studies on things for money now.He stated that I can not take a bunch of magnets and create a new one without an weak spots between them.His showoff was to join about 10 disk magnets to a cylindrical magnet.Like that there is the north and south pole at the ends and the rest acts like a single magnet.Although on the field viewing sheet you could see where the magnets touched there was no difference in feel to a similar cyclindrical magnet from one piece.The he used some layers of carboard to seperate them with even spacing.As expected you could really feel where one magnet was and where a gap was.He was happy to have made a point and that his theory as correct as always.Then I placed the magnets in identical orientation with on pole onto a flat mild steel bar.Two strips.One with the magnets as close to each other as possible, then with a spacing similar to the diameter of the disk magnets.In either case there was no noticable "gap" to feel and only one the viewing film was really close to the magnets it revealed the different poles, above that threshold and it appears as one field.He went silent for about 15 minutes, tried all sorts of things and kept shaking his head."Can I take those home and do some proper checks?"Well that was last Sunday and so far I have not hear back from to explain to me where the gaps disappeared to LOL

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Just for fun!17 days ago
  • Downunder35m commented on ambientvoid's forum topic Flywheel car18 days ago

    Comes down to mass and rotational speed.A toy car is light and the flywheel in comparison make the majority of the weight.Take a push bike on a straight and get it to a certain speed.The energy you need to provide with your legs to maintain the speed is the smae your flywheel would have to provide.A multi geared flywheel that is kept at very high speeds will provide more energy for longer than a slow turning wheel - with same mass and dimensions.Of course more energy is required to get it to that high speed.Upscaling a toy car to something real with a driver would mean to have a flywheel of over 200kg.And with that weight comes to problem of moving it.There might be little to no overall gain for you unless your ride always starts on top of a hill.

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  • Downunder35m commented on RicKami's forum topic Electric touch...20 days ago
  • Germany of course also uses AC ;)The elctronic ones should be just a simple regulator but the problem might be the power.At just 120V your machine uses a motor that requires a few more in Amps, or milli Amperes.Check the power rating of machine and the new foot pedal.If the pedal can supply more Ampere (A) than what the machine needs it should still work.You might have problems at low speeds and high work lods, like when doing thick materials.In case it won't work or not good enough you can always try one of these:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sewing-Machine-Pedal-1...If in doubt replace the plug for the machine or the entire cable with what you have from the broken one ;)

    Can you provide some images of the dead pedal?I would say the replacement should be fine unless the machine would really require DC from the pedal.Have not seen a Singer that requires this.

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  • That explains a lot.The model itself is far from being perfect.You will have areas where material gets trapped or that are just too uneven.If it is not that important then try my old candle trick:For really bad originals I either make a silicone model or mold first - or take the shortcut.Wax does not stick to much, is easy to use and work with.Only problem is the stuff is hot when you have to heat it.For a first test:Prepare enouch liquid wax to submerge you part.Clean your part with quite warm soapy water and a soft brush.Dry it with a lint free cloth or paper towel quickly - if the thing can absord water then wait with the wax and let it dry properly in warm oven or sunlight.You don't want to mix any remaining water with hot wax!!!Either way once fully dry and still quite warm cover ...

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    That explains a lot.The model itself is far from being perfect.You will have areas where material gets trapped or that are just too uneven.If it is not that important then try my old candle trick:For really bad originals I either make a silicone model or mold first - or take the shortcut.Wax does not stick to much, is easy to use and work with.Only problem is the stuff is hot when you have to heat it.For a first test:Prepare enouch liquid wax to submerge you part.Clean your part with quite warm soapy water and a soft brush.Dry it with a lint free cloth or paper towel quickly - if the thing can absord water then wait with the wax and let it dry properly in warm oven or sunlight.You don't want to mix any remaining water with hot wax!!!Either way once fully dry and still quite warm cover it fully with wax.Let all excess drip off, if doubt use a hair drier to use the hot airflow to push away what you don't need.The resulting wax coating should be extremely thin and if tested on the back with your fingernail then next to nothing should scrape off.Very tiny imperfections, cracks and such however fill be filled or at least smothed out.Your project might now succeed.If it still gets stuck it mean you have areas that form an undercut or areas where material gets trapped.Use a lot of light a magnifying glass and have some quickly made poking, scraping and smoothing tools ready.Wherever you spot an area of trouble use some warm and soft wax to fill or smooth it out.Some tiny hobby knife blade or metal strip can be heated quickly over a flame and then create a perfectly smooth surface on the wax.Little marks you might create along the way canbe fixed the same way or by "dunking a flame" - a lighter or match quickly placed and removed usually smooths out what it left.Once done and satisfied you can heat up the model and wipe off most of the way, leaving a protective coating.

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  • Let me start with batteries like yours...It is evident that there is more than just a positive and negative connection.Means it could be connections to different cell combinations, inside or outside control and safety features and so on.Messing with those without knowing what is what and what exactly is inside can be quite dangerous.Overcharging of lithium cells....You find this a lot on the web and usually only as a way to "fix dead" batteries.It is true that a controlled voltage spike can get a dead battery back to a state where a charger might accept it.But this "knowledge" was just taken from the old lead-acid batteries.Lithium cells undergo chemical reactions of a different kind!In the worst case nothing will cause any voltage to go through such a bad cell witho...

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    Let me start with batteries like yours...It is evident that there is more than just a positive and negative connection.Means it could be connections to different cell combinations, inside or outside control and safety features and so on.Messing with those without knowing what is what and what exactly is inside can be quite dangerous.Overcharging of lithium cells....You find this a lot on the web and usually only as a way to "fix dead" batteries.It is true that a controlled voltage spike can get a dead battery back to a state where a charger might accept it.But this "knowledge" was just taken from the old lead-acid batteries.Lithium cells undergo chemical reactions of a different kind!In the worst case nothing will cause any voltage to go through such a bad cell without destroying it.-But lets be nice and assume you could actually access the real battery connections and apply you direct power shock:The cells are without any usuable charge, so the lithium and other chemicals are literally used up.Most of the cell won't even be able to take any charge.The areas that still do however will change the chemicals and lithium in that area.This process in a good battery is very even and uniform.As a result you can end up with what I like to call charge pits.Small areas that hold a charge long enough to allow a normal charger to take them on again.You face two big risks:1. The individual cells will be at different levels of failure.Through that it becomes impossible to charge the individual cells evenly.See it like several different resistors in series: The lower resistance in some causes heat to build up and the chemical reaction to go out of control.Far too simplyfied but you get the picture.2. The charge pits can grow out of control.Imagine you pump more and more energy into a cell that can only utilise about 20-30% of its chemicals and metals.So called spikes can not only form by bad battery design and failing protections but also really good in those pits!The chemical reaction should cause a gradual build up of fresh material that is your available charge.It is like growing mountains - you want them to be as flat as possible to get the most charge without the tops breaching the insulations and causing a short.Ever seen some of these videos where lithium batteries go up in flames while charging? ;)This happens once a spike has pierced the insulation and reached the opposite pole.The only half secure way would be to try something with every single cell of your battery.Chances are it will never get to a decent capacity anyways.Plus you still risk bad failures in the long run.IMHO the best and safest option is a replacement, especially if the battery is quite old or had a lot of charging cycles already.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Tripmine56's forum topic Anyone notice?22 days ago

    The support is working on some fixes, or better they work on quite a few.Some disruptions or things not working at times comes with it.Now it is weekend, so give them till Monday afternoon.Otherwise send an Email with some more details to the support directly so they have a reference.

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  • Try to dust the mold with corn starch, blow out the excess.And if you have no intentions to paint it then spray oil works well too.Cooking oil can be cleaned off, silicone oil is better but impossible to glue or paint the cast when done.

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  • Down here it is mostly still the old wild west mentality and law.Responsible for water, supply and such is the provider.They do the reports, tests and get the money for the water.Somer higher authority claims to make sure all is fine but for the entire state there are only about 8 field working people for this job.There is no requirements of any sort to give a landowner enough power to enforce a check.I tried sever times from my private connection and even by showing the guys upon arrival that without flushing the water on the meter is already affected.For work we now got something that is basically a copy and paste job from what I got multiple times for Emails.Stating all tests came back clear and that our filtration problem is caused by our pipes and plumbing.The fact that the water f...

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    Down here it is mostly still the old wild west mentality and law.Responsible for water, supply and such is the provider.They do the reports, tests and get the money for the water.Somer higher authority claims to make sure all is fine but for the entire state there are only about 8 field working people for this job.There is no requirements of any sort to give a landowner enough power to enforce a check.I tried sever times from my private connection and even by showing the guys upon arrival that without flushing the water on the meter is already affected.For work we now got something that is basically a copy and paste job from what I got multiple times for Emails.Stating all tests came back clear and that our filtration problem is caused by our pipes and plumbing.The fact that the water from our meter there is also brwonish was not even mention in their nice letter.Most people around here were made aware that the water quality might suffer slightly in terms of clearity and sediments.But the related works are over for many months now and people just think it will clear up eventually with no concerns at all.I drank better water from creeks while fishing :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on liderbug's forum topic Sr04 like device works to 300ft23 days ago

    Not sure as don't do much with ultrasonic.But I would say the reflections from the pipe might cause interence issues sometimes.

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  • What exactly is not working? The button for the reply or the entry of text?The text is possible if you click in the first row where you could enter text.The button itself works fine for me here but if not try to log out and in again.

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  • That powder can be quite hazardous, so please don't let the suff get airborner or end in your drain.With the wet method you just put the contamited water in an open container and let if evaporate.(I do that in my garage)After that discard the entire container in your houshold rubbish bin.Please wear gloves and avoid skin contact!It is easier than what you might think.A straight tube can be done quickly with a pipe cleaner brush and some soapy water.The key is to use the detergent directly in the tube, meaning you let a few drops run in and then use the brush with water.Only good working option I found for these twisted tubes is to use an ultrasonic cleaner.Fill cleaner with luke warm soapy water, preferably bubble free.Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the tube and fill it comple...

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    That powder can be quite hazardous, so please don't let the suff get airborner or end in your drain.With the wet method you just put the contamited water in an open container and let if evaporate.(I do that in my garage)After that discard the entire container in your houshold rubbish bin.Please wear gloves and avoid skin contact!It is easier than what you might think.A straight tube can be done quickly with a pipe cleaner brush and some soapy water.The key is to use the detergent directly in the tube, meaning you let a few drops run in and then use the brush with water.Only good working option I found for these twisted tubes is to use an ultrasonic cleaner.Fill cleaner with luke warm soapy water, preferably bubble free.Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the tube and fill it completely with water!Submerge the tube in the cleaner and turn it on.You might need several rounds but don't have to flush the tube out until you really see the white stuff letting go.Usually mine are done after 6 to 7 rounds all up with little to no residue left.There are other methods that still wrk on these tubes but I can recommend any as the health or enviromental hazards would be to great.

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  • Downunder35m commented on liderbug's forum topic Sr04 like device works to 300ft23 days ago

    Have you ever tried a laser sensor on a water surface?Should work just fine and several industrial ones are capable of these distances.

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  • Then you already have your answer - it is a JPG.Take a screenshot, copr it and save as JPG.With that it will be no problem at all to integrate it into your Ible.

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  • Downunder35m commented on NoPawse123's forum topic Light Cannons24 days ago

    Keep in mind the power requirements even for LED's.It is often better to have the power supply or driver close to the light instead fo using long wirse between the two.

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  • It does not really matter what type of solder you use as long as the connections are made properly.To me it looks like you have a problem with the heat.Try to heat the leg of the part AND the solder pad at the same time.Then add just enough solder to make a nice connection.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Palingenesis's forum topic An Other One24 days ago

    Looks quite nice, why not make an Instructable out of it?I like the portable idea that allows to put it on whatever surface you like.

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  • You are definately not wrong on that one but a lot of them just get what is "normal".However, I noticed a quite disturbing trend with both Youtube and Google, possibly because it is one company.Start watching these fake videos and you get more and more of them as susggestions.Quite fair in terms of what might interest you but it seems highly biased.Getting new videos suggested seems to be a hit an miss but you can be certain that those like yours always end up in the suggestion list.Might go overboard here, but considering Google is one of the most powerful US companies it looks like a good way to eliminated that anyone ever sees real videos that were uploaded.Especially if said user is just a free user and does not agree to have ads embedded.If I take proper people like our K...

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    You are definately not wrong on that one but a lot of them just get what is "normal".However, I noticed a quite disturbing trend with both Youtube and Google, possibly because it is one company.Start watching these fake videos and you get more and more of them as susggestions.Quite fair in terms of what might interest you but it seems highly biased.Getting new videos suggested seems to be a hit an miss but you can be certain that those like yours always end up in the suggestion list.Might go overboard here, but considering Google is one of the most powerful US companies it looks like a good way to eliminated that anyone ever sees real videos that were uploaded.Especially if said user is just a free user and does not agree to have ads embedded.If I take proper people like our King of Random than it makes sense to get more of the same from the same uploader.But those fake free energy videos seem to have a life of their own.Want real fun? Check how many videos you still find for fuel magnets or vortex devices for your airfilter in the car ROFLNow you can even get fuel additives that together with the right HV cables for your plugs increase your milage by over 40%!I order the petrol additive and two sets of these leads for my diesel ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on daftasacoot's forum topic Animating toy soldiers25 days ago

    No offence but why would you use an audio player to control a servo?The player needs a SD card to work, so using that with some custom code to mode the soldier would be far easier.Otherwise use the many example for "light organs" and replace the lights with servos ;)Makes the soldiers dance to the music....

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  • Downunder35m commented on NoPawse123's forum topic Light Cannons25 days ago

    Normal stage lights could be used as well as custom LED lights with a lens.What you need is a search light like source.Beam diameter is set by the actual light used and the lens (system) ensures the beam stays highly focussed for a long distance.Anything in front of the lens would then act like a shadow cast and affect the shpe of the beam - bat signal ;)A normal drone might not be feasable here due to the power requirements but frame systems fo 3D like beam movements do exist for stage use.Depending your skill set it might be possible you make your own.Biggest problem would be the visiblility.Without smoke or other reflective stuff in the air the light won't be visible at all.Not even a laser would...Less smoke for better clearity means highe power for the light.More smoke for ease and...

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    Normal stage lights could be used as well as custom LED lights with a lens.What you need is a search light like source.Beam diameter is set by the actual light used and the lens (system) ensures the beam stays highly focussed for a long distance.Anything in front of the lens would then act like a shadow cast and affect the shpe of the beam - bat signal ;)A normal drone might not be feasable here due to the power requirements but frame systems fo 3D like beam movements do exist for stage use.Depending your skill set it might be possible you make your own.Biggest problem would be the visiblility.Without smoke or other reflective stuff in the air the light won't be visible at all.Not even a laser would...Less smoke for better clearity means highe power for the light.More smoke for ease and efficient use might mean you disappear in smoke.

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  • What format do you use?I would try standard ones like JPG or PNG.If hosted o a server you might want to try to embed it using HTML.

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  • Damn, I like your comment Jack - Well done indeed!Have some updates and additional concerns though.Maybe just coincidence but at work we struggle now with our filtration system as well.The pre-filters should be good for about a month based on out usage for drinks and such.Longest usage time until blocked is now down to 3-4 days!!This is a massive financail drain, especially if you consider that these pre-filters won't catch all.The usage time for our fine filters and the reverse osmosis system is down from 24 months to just 3 month.Of course my boss finally decided to let me know about it and while at it dumped the responsibilities on me.First order of new business was to call our water provider to enquire on any works on the the water system in out area.Negative, nothing major done for...

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    Damn, I like your comment Jack - Well done indeed!Have some updates and additional concerns though.Maybe just coincidence but at work we struggle now with our filtration system as well.The pre-filters should be good for about a month based on out usage for drinks and such.Longest usage time until blocked is now down to 3-4 days!!This is a massive financail drain, especially if you consider that these pre-filters won't catch all.The usage time for our fine filters and the reverse osmosis system is down from 24 months to just 3 month.Of course my boss finally decided to let me know about it and while at it dumped the responsibilities on me.First order of new business was to call our water provider to enquire on any works on the the water system in out area.Negative, nothing major done for over 4 months and the big problems appearently started after this.So I pointed out that since about the time of last work we have filtration and clearity problems.With the amount of water we use daily the common agrrement was to send someone out ot check.The guy came today...I replaced the pre-filter and gave it up for inspection and tests."Can't do this here, have to take it to the lab."And as always, they claimed to be only responsible for thing up to the meter.So some samples were taken from the tap next to it.This is what according to the guy who knows came out from the tests:Chlorine below detection levels - I was fine with that.Bacteria count zero - no clue how he tested by I didn't care about that one.Sulphate, magnesium and ammonia checks came back negative as well.When I asked specifically for an iron or iron oxide test I was informed that it would not be part of the test procedure.Final blow came with the clearity check.The guy stated this test would show any contaminents, sediments and anything that would be defined as visible.Test scale on the meter goes from 0 for basically destilled water to 1000, which would correspond to a muddy puddle on a dirt road.I confirmed the reading myself and it was 20!Asked for another test, which was fine and provided a sample from bottled water.The reading for this was 18...."See, all is fine and your water is already as good as it could be!"Getting supspicions at this point I kindly asked if it would be ok to verify the test I did this morning - the guys laughed and agreed.So I grabbed my white buckets and with the water guy watching filled on from the tap in the washup room.Quite quickly it became evident that the water has brownish color, like from tannins or tea."Well, you definately have a problem with your plumbing mate!"Asked to hold that statement while I took the second bucket to the tap next to meter.The already half filled previous bucketnext to it I opened the tap.No surprise to me, the water in the bucket had the same brownish color.When I asked the wate guy how this possible could equal to what I find in bottled water I got nothing.So I asked how it is possible that his test claim to have tested totall clear and fine water.Again no answer.Took him a full minute until he said he would test our filter and have his equppiment checked for calibration issues.Without stating what happend at work I privately called our water supplier to ask about my water quality at home.Appearently they did a check in my stree just last week and all results came back fine.If I have any issues with water then I should call a plumber to have my piping inspected.Asked if someone could come out to actually confirm these results by testing my water I was told this would not be required as my area is on the same distribution pipe as the previously tested house.Is it just me or do I see a system behind this?Waiting for a reply from my real estate agent in regards to having the hot water system and piping of the house inspected due to the bad water quality.Did not mention that some if might come from the outside of course.Before writing this I grabbed a white bucket and went to two neighbours.Stated my problems and asked if I could fill my little bucket from their tap to confirm that the problem is just with my house.Lets just say they were quite concerned when seeing that the water in the bucket was neither clear nor appeared white as it should in a white bucket.Same brownish color as in my house and at work.Side story:One of my neighbours got a bit emotional when she realised the water quality might have other effect as well.She showed me her enclosed verandah or green house.Didn't ask how many but I estimate about 120 orchids.Except for a few that require special treatment anyway they all were in a really bad shape.I recommended to try bottled or destilled water with added nutirents instead of tap water...Knowing she is a breeder now makes me feel a bit sad as it might take over a year for those orchids that survive to thrive again.Anyways the all said they will contact our water supplier right away.Wouldn't surprise if the problem is well known and that the test equippent is made to show favourable results instead of real ones.Sadly there is no legal option in this country get proper help on this matter :(

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  • You can always use a patent for private use, just not commercially ;)For a different project a few years I considered a slightly different approach to a similar problem.My case was not 64 positions and the resulting chess pieces, just basic positioning.The entire multiplexing idea and RF signals is well and good but f you would prefer to stay away from the patented stuff you go optical.I try to explain my approach while considering the amount of chess pieces and possible positions:Preferably each square would have a small induction coil to provide wirless power to the chess pieces.Additionally there will be an IR receiver in each square.In every peice you have a receiver coil to provide electricity.The power goes to a chip providing an optical signal code to identify the piece.The squar...

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    You can always use a patent for private use, just not commercially ;)For a different project a few years I considered a slightly different approach to a similar problem.My case was not 64 positions and the resulting chess pieces, just basic positioning.The entire multiplexing idea and RF signals is well and good but f you would prefer to stay away from the patented stuff you go optical.I try to explain my approach while considering the amount of chess pieces and possible positions:Preferably each square would have a small induction coil to provide wirless power to the chess pieces.Additionally there will be an IR receiver in each square.In every peice you have a receiver coil to provide electricity.The power goes to a chip providing an optical signal code to identify the piece.The squares only need to kept powered up while a piece is actually present.If a removal is detected all remaining squares are activated to be able to recognise the new position once the piece has transmitted its code.Optional: Only activate possible squares based on the type of piece and position it was on.Wouldn't be too hard to program a small chip to send one of 32 possible ID codes...And if you make it work properly you still claim a patent on it if you give me some credits for the idea ;)Don't know enough about induction systems for identification purposes but somehow I think my idea is still a bit easier to realise and for more "elegant" and flexible.No problem adding a bit more info and use the board for other games ;)Only real downside might be the optical part.Position problems can be address with a suitable reflector in the base but dirt or smear not so much.But then again a proper chess player would keep his set and board nice and clean, would he? (Or she?)

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  • Damn, I wish I could be on a beach near you now....You should consider first how and how much the printers will be used.Same for the type of usage, like just for printing things or for students to take apart and modify.Do you have anyone with enough knowledge on the topic, able to fix faults and problems with the hardware?If not and it is a high demand arrangement then it might be best to pay more but get a service contract in return.Personally I think that quite soon you would someoneone knowing enough to deal with this "for free".Renting out or accepting print jobs from the general public or other students can provide help to reduce the running costs!But of course it means you would need someone running these print jobs when the machines are not in use by students.Could be a...

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    Damn, I wish I could be on a beach near you now....You should consider first how and how much the printers will be used.Same for the type of usage, like just for printing things or for students to take apart and modify.Do you have anyone with enough knowledge on the topic, able to fix faults and problems with the hardware?If not and it is a high demand arrangement then it might be best to pay more but get a service contract in return.Personally I think that quite soon you would someoneone knowing enough to deal with this "for free".Renting out or accepting print jobs from the general public or other students can provide help to reduce the running costs!But of course it means you would need someone running these print jobs when the machines are not in use by students.Could be a good training thing for the students though.Fixing customer models, printing them and proding the customer with the resulting print.In terms of recommendations for printers it would be nice to have some more details.Just filament printers or maybe one DLP printer?Required build volume? - Maybe just one big printer and then one or two smaller models?Speed requirements - A big print on a standard printer might take a full day while a high end commercial model might do it in 8 to 10 hours...Although you are literally in the middle of nowhere it is still a part of the US.My best recommendation at this point would be to check what is available in your region.Service, spare parts or a repair is much easier if only "local" companies are involved.Flexibility is a must in both terms here.As a student machine you want to be able to use a wide variety of plastics and not just PLA and ABS.So at least one should be fully capable of handling all common soft and hard filament types.Upgrading this at a later stage is not just time consuming but in many cases also far more expensive.Been there, done that :(Having said all that an maybe given you more than you can chew right now:If you use more than one machine or have high volumes then considering to recycle make a lot more sense than for a private person.Although a recycled filament is never as good as the original it is still perfect for drafts or support material.The additional investment of a filament extruder can be made up quickly, especially if postage costs would drastically increase the price of new filament.Features are also a big thing to consider.For most things a plain and dumb printer will do.Having features like automatic bed levelling, a heated bed or easy and quick to change extruders and nozzles might be vital in the long run.Things like a webcam or remote control might sound nice but trust me:Having a stand alone model where people just have to insert a SD card and hit the print button eliminates a lot of hassles.Last but not least there is the problem of reliablity, especially if used without proper supervision and training.Accidents happen, especially during very long prints.Some printers allow for a recovery function.With that you could clean up a failed print to the last layer that is perfect.Calibrate the nozzle height accordingly and the printer will resume the print from there.Usually only found in higher end models, the rest can still do with some manual tweaking of the G-code and some basic calculations.Personal view on this if money would not be a problem:IMHO a "near perfect" solution would be to have one big sized X-Y printer, one smaller model and one good sized delta-type printer.After checking availabilites and postage costs, plus considering the climate I don't think a resin or powder based printer is a good solution.The running costs would be quite high, same for attention required to keep it all clean and properly working.A good a and reliable filament printer capable of a build size of 15x15x15cm is good for a lot of print tasks out there.A bigger model capable of 30x30x30 or more will be of huge benefit if larger parts would be a requirement.-Especially if you would plan to reduce costs by accepting outside print jobs from the community.Knowing how great the spirit is on the islands I just assume woul would provide some form of outside access.The delty printer is of interest because it allows students to compare the two main types of printers out there.The movements are totally different and prints will come out slightly different on them as well.Not better, not worse, just "different" - hard to explain.‘A’OHE PU’U KI’EKI’E KE HO’A’O ‘IA E PI’IYou will find what suits, with proper details and requirements given someone will be able to provide with some suitable printer models.If not then I will look some up for you ;)A hui hou !

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  • Take a look at all these magnetmotor videos out there on Youtube.I really love the fake one with the PC fan LOLThen there are the many videos showing 3 rows of magnets on rotor and stator, the later to be closed with hinges...At least for those some folks are honest and admit failure...So what is actually causing these failures if the concept was not to create a fake?Take a normal asyncronous motor as one example.The rotor appears to be slotted or angled but if not straight.This helps to overcome certain issues but also allows the rotor to slip without loosing too much momentum.There is something I like to call "the honest guy test".Here you can see how the rotor spins with and without the stator.Funny thing on an almost working model is how it reacts.You see, when started slo...

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    Take a look at all these magnetmotor videos out there on Youtube.I really love the fake one with the PC fan LOLThen there are the many videos showing 3 rows of magnets on rotor and stator, the later to be closed with hinges...At least for those some folks are honest and admit failure...So what is actually causing these failures if the concept was not to create a fake?Take a normal asyncronous motor as one example.The rotor appears to be slotted or angled but if not straight.This helps to overcome certain issues but also allows the rotor to slip without loosing too much momentum.There is something I like to call "the honest guy test".Here you can see how the rotor spins with and without the stator.Funny thing on an almost working model is how it reacts.You see, when started slow in both cases the rotor won't spin long but noticable longer without the stator.And when started at a quite high speed it is the other way around.Here the thing suddenly spins much longer with the stator than without it.As mentioned in the topic already, we have binding forces between the magnets.Even if you have fully opposing poles meeting there will be a dead zone.In this dead zone the magnet will actually attract ;)This means you are fighting two fundamental problems that seem to confirm the laws of physics still apply.Overall the forces will actually nullify to nothing.Taking for granted what we know about energy and momentum a true magnetmotor would be able to start by itself from any position.Checking some claimed to be working models there is one thing they all have in common:Or better two, they need a push to start or they lock in a fixed position when stopped!Those really sceptic people now say it is not a perpetuum mobile - and of course they are right!However, if you widen the definition only slightly then even with a push start a working magnet motor provides more energy than what was required to start it - and it keeps running.The one thing you never really see in carefully edited videos or during presentations is how the magnets are aligned, enclosed and how other matals are used in the stator or rotor assembly!For most the few visible parts seem to be for stabilityor to keep it all together.Lets talk about binding, dead zones and "potting mixes"...If you take a coil and move a magnet past it then some electricity will be generated.Same if you drop a magnet through a coil or pipe.But honestly: Did you ever consider how this magnetic field or electricity would change the magnetic flux?In a pipe you end up with opposing magnetic fields, thats what is slowing the magnet down.If you do it the other way around and use a potted magnet then the effect is quite different if a magnet passes it!Like in a LC circuit we get a dimishing impulse.The potting affects the magnet, the magnet affects the currents in the potting.The passing magnet will now create a strong impulse when passing over the dead zone.And in return this impulse severaly lowers the magnetic field strenght of the potted magnet.Plus: The magnetic field of the pot is of the opposite to the magnet!The overall pushing and pulling forces will be almost the same but the binding forces drastically reduced.From a certain speed up the binding forces are lower than the forces moving the rotor...And does it still fail to work, or if done good stops after a while instead of getting faster or keeping the speed?Alignement and repetition...Three rotors and stators are there for a reason!A single system always has binding forces stopping the movement sooner or later.Just not enough energy to overcome friction and all the stuff as well.To eliminate this we often see that the magnets or the rotors are aligned similar to a asyncronous rotor.However that is not entirely correct, maybe on purpose, who knows..What you really want is to make sure that while one rotor is in the position where the binding forces would stop it, the other two are at positions providing a comined "trust" that is slightly higher.I give you a free hint here: This will never work with the same amount of magnets on stator and rotor! ;)There is a natural ratio you need to stick to.That way you have single binding points around the perimater instead of all of them binding at the same time ;)Ok, got it but it still slows down and stops after a while :(Well, it has to because you still have a fully static system.Unless your potting and additional shielding is next to perfect you still have more losses than gain.But if the rotor now spins much longer with the stator around then try to get a faster starting speed ;)Static is not always best!If you are good enough then it might work for you but in 99% of cases it won't.Right now we use the potting to affect the potted magnet.But we could use coils instead...To keep the example quite simple imagine a rotor with 5 magnets and a stator with 7.Calculating two unknow variables is quite easy possible if you paid attention in school.Doing it with three is slightly harder but works too.What you want is to create a follow up impulse.What is produced by a coil right then the magnet passes goes into another coil to pull the magnet closer and to overcome the replusive forces a bit better.Once you get your tables calculated you realise 5 and 7 won't really work with the alignment all the time.You need a number of coiled stator magnets that actually allow you create the right pattern through the coil connections.All coils need to be used and always connected so the the strongest coil feeds into a weak one to pull a magnet closer.Remember these drawing toys to make nice looking spirals on paper? - they can give you clues here ;)Instead of wasting energy through heat alone we now actually use the magnetic impulses and the resulting electricity to ADD to the system.A feromagnetic ring on top of the coil can be used to manipulate the magnetic field enev further without compromising the impulse too much!One thing I so far fail to find on Youtube is to use two cylindrical magnets mounted in non-magnetic bearings.The ones you might see don't use the bearings at the ends of the magnet but instead let them rotate from pole to pole like a motor.Do a little test for me ;)Place two magnets with their pole onto a non magnetic bearing of your choice - very low friction please!Now bring them close together so you feel they either pull or push on each other.Fix them in a position that won't let them snap together or that provides a good push.-Now start to spin one magnet and watch what the other one does! ;)If we see magnetic field lines like teeth on a gear the other magnet will start to sping as well.See them as a general force and there will be no interaction.Assume it would spin:It would mean we have usable forces around a magnet that spins on its pole axis.And if it does not spin then why do we speak of magnetic field lines instead of a magnetic field sphere? ;)Easy to do, so figure it out and explain your findings if you can ;)

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