author
52Instructables706,479Views6,273CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • Downunder35m commented on MaDoGK's forum topic DIY BBQ grill8 days ago
  • Downunder35m commented on randofo's forum topic Recent Feed Page13 days ago
  • Downunder35m commented on gonzzo's forum topic Last update make this site pointless.19 days ago

    Try it again ;)You made the fastest fix ever possible I guess...

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  • Downunder35m commented on liquidhandwash's forum topic Site update?19 days ago

    Bad timing?Here all seems to be normal.Just imagine we would get notifications about what is done and when ;)You refresh a site or log in and you get a pop up informing you that today between 10 and 12 we might experience problems due to server or site updates.But then again it would deprive you from starting a topic about the issues you face ROFL

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  • Downunder35m commented on Palingenesis's forum topic Picture format (png) and sizing19 days ago

    I tried a few times to post the code I use for images, videos and such but if correct then even here the editor just sucks it in instead of presenting the code as is.Considering how many projects here deal with code, like Arduino it is almost neglegent not to have a simple option to insert code so it remains unchanged and plain.Could take a screenshot of the example in a text editor if that would help you....

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  • Downunder35m commented on alison katri's forum topic Tree house book19 days ago

    Did not know of any books or websites but did build some houses...Problem with the tree friendly approach is time and stability.Anything that is just wrapped around trunks or branches will sooner or later need adjusting to prevent the tree from outgrowing it.I usually aim for areas where strong enough branches grow out and use thm as the main support for cross beams.As there is usually never enough at the same level it means you start with a weird shape and build up from there to get a level floor.I have also seen the approach of putting the house on strong supports with the trunk going through the center.This however only works properly if the tree provides enough cover from rain.I usually decide on a design once I know the tree and was able to do some checks.Even something as simple a...

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    Did not know of any books or websites but did build some houses...Problem with the tree friendly approach is time and stability.Anything that is just wrapped around trunks or branches will sooner or later need adjusting to prevent the tree from outgrowing it.I usually aim for areas where strong enough branches grow out and use thm as the main support for cross beams.As there is usually never enough at the same level it means you start with a weird shape and build up from there to get a level floor.I have also seen the approach of putting the house on strong supports with the trunk going through the center.This however only works properly if the tree provides enough cover from rain.I usually decide on a design once I know the tree and was able to do some checks.Even something as simple as a string line can often give vital clues.Guess the key really is to be able to envision what is possible given the structure of the tree and the planned size and dimensions of the house.

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  • Downunder35m commented on jacindawalker's forum topic cancel account19 days ago

    I guess these things happen if you start working on several ends at once without having the ressources to complete it ;)As for accounts itself there is only one I know that works half decent.Delete you ibles, delete your topic and comments, then just move on.Like so many other websites now there is no archive option to remove those ancient topics.Most likely because every account counts.And having the right to create an account does not always mean you have the rights to actual decide what happens to it.Just imagine it would work with a click of a button...All of a sudden this website would be reduced to just 15% of the current content LOL

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  • Downunder35m commented on chaskaduo's forum topic Pictures disappeared20 days ago

    Nope, all fine here, got the pics and all.Using the current FF with the latest bugs not manually fixed yet.Did not try with chrome as I try to get rid of it due to eating up far too much of my ressources.But I did check on my tablet using Chrome and the standard broweser as well as the Samsung browser on my phone and they all give me the pics of the above link.Did you clear your browser history and cookies already?If not and if you don't really rely on the history then please give it a try.If you are in Australia then double check if your ISP is not offering something they like to call "faster browsing" or similar.It basically means the ISP is caching websites to prevent that a user has to load them fresh every time.Downside is that all content that changed between updating th...

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    Nope, all fine here, got the pics and all.Using the current FF with the latest bugs not manually fixed yet.Did not try with chrome as I try to get rid of it due to eating up far too much of my ressources.But I did check on my tablet using Chrome and the standard broweser as well as the Samsung browser on my phone and they all give me the pics of the above link.Did you clear your browser history and cookies already?If not and if you don't really rely on the history then please give it a try.If you are in Australia then double check if your ISP is not offering something they like to call "faster browsing" or similar.It basically means the ISP is caching websites to prevent that a user has to load them fresh every time.Downside is that all content that changed between updating the cache will be lost or at least outdated.I had to contact the support and needed about an hour until they finally admitted doing this and disable the "feature" on my account.

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  • Downunder35m commented on craftyv's forum topic Login process21 days ago

    I noticed recently that when websites make minor changes to their login pages or processes that brwosers can fail to recognise this.That means the auto-fill functions don't always work in these cases.Same story if cookies are used instead, once they are outdated the browsers fails again until they are cleared.Since the code monkeys are seem to work quite a bit lately we might have to deal with both options for a while.If in doubt clearing cache and cookies every now and then, plus loggin out and back in should solve most of the problems related to this.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Palingenesis's forum topic Picture format (png) and sizing21 days ago

    Transparency is not really required for pics here.No bckground means it has to be filled with something and I guess the default for this is nothing, or black.JPG is the standard, BMP often for very small images.The only way to change the location and size of an image you use is to use HTML when writing the Ible.Then you can place the image in the text where you need it and also define the prview size yourself.AFAIK there is no plans to make this process any easier or simpler anytime soon :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on chaskaduo's forum topic Pictures disappeared21 days ago

    I couldn't find an Instructable without pics so far - you have examples?

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  • Downunder35m commented on hj212121's forum topic 12V DC Motor Wind Turbine 22 days ago

    You can use what you like as a load ;)Ok, jokes aside, there better options of course.I prefer simple light bulbs as they won't care about getting hot and won't go up in smoke.As you are on 12V anything from a car or 12V halogen system will do.One break light would offer you a load of 5 and 20W for testing.Adding them in series increases the resistance while connecting them in parallel lowers the resistance and through that the power in Watt.Bonus with light bulbs is that you also have a visual output - the brighter the light the higher the voltage.If you need more control over the load then I suggest to use Nichrome or Kanthal wire.You can measure the resistance of the wire with the multimeter or just calculate the required lenght based on what is printed on the label.

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  • It seems to be the common thing now that users are the ones doing the checks and return get the associated problems of beta testers.There are good reasons why people rely on certain addons, like protection from intrusive pop ups that can end you on in a phishing network.Would have been too easy to actually make sure that the certs a company uses won't run out or that someone breaks them due to non existing testing :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Simple fishing lures?23 days ago

    Thanks for that!A little low on the details but very close to what my grandfather did back in his glory days.And with the total lack of responses you just get the click from me today for it ;)

    Not sure if an Instructable is the way to go with that.Only started this because not a single fisherman I spoke over the past few years would even consider making lures.They all aim for the latest and most fancy ones as seen on TV LOLGuess I first need to show that homemade can work at least as good as expensive from the shop.

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  • That's a joke!So there is nothing that is not compatible, just the will of a company... :(

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  • I guess for this you would need internet access for the display or at least transfer the required data from your computer to the display.Comes down to finding the corresponding code in the website's HTML section and to follow what is there.Other ways, like using some coe to search for the corresponding images and counting them would work as well.Could not find any API that Google would provide to make it easier :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on craftyv's forum topic Login process23 days ago

    That for once might not be a problem caused by the code monkeys as it works just fine for me, using the latest FF browser.However:I did notice that both FF and Chrome had troubles with some recent updates.In some cases it might be necessary to turn off the auto-fill options, restart and then turn them back on again.After that both your username AND password should be pre-filled for the login.

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  • Downunder35m commented on rickharris's forum topic Interesting offer24 days ago

    99.995% of these "offers" are just scams.And for the remaining percentage I am not risking anything LOLThere will always be people who prefer to make a lot of money by not working and instead making others pay them for snakke oil.Good to see that we are being protected here :)

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  • I see you are one of the few who already saw the potential during times when no one cared about it.Like so many good ideas from back then :(I think the main problem in terms of vehicles is not so much the battery/fossil fuel problem.A car is seen as a piece of independence.Be it guided or in the modern driverless fashion it will take a long time to find enough acceptance.Just check trains.They would be far better off without the no longer required "driver".But surveys showed that commuter trust only happen if a human is "control".So we still use mainly trains that still someone operating the dead man switch.Trusting a car would be even worse for anyone who is already an adult today.Sure it is fun to sit back, have a drink and know you still get home safe but doing th...

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    I see you are one of the few who already saw the potential during times when no one cared about it.Like so many good ideas from back then :(I think the main problem in terms of vehicles is not so much the battery/fossil fuel problem.A car is seen as a piece of independence.Be it guided or in the modern driverless fashion it will take a long time to find enough acceptance.Just check trains.They would be far better off without the no longer required "driver".But surveys showed that commuter trust only happen if a human is "control".So we still use mainly trains that still someone operating the dead man switch.Trusting a car would be even worse for anyone who is already an adult today.Sure it is fun to sit back, have a drink and know you still get home safe but doing the same while sober...You watch the news while your car gets you home from work and suddenly it goes nuts and your life is at risk without you being able to do anything about it.Of course it will never happen but that does not mean this feeling is not haunting...Keep in mind we still have overpopulated town that use trams and similar to cause additional road hazards and traffic problems.That alone tells me that nostalgica won't be the fight we need to win before our streets are filled with automated cars of some sort.

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  • Downunder35m commented on rickharris's forum topic Electric vehicle motor selection25 days ago

    I had a chat with a guy who did electric racing karts down here some years ago.His theory to make BLDC motors work for more than RC models goes like this:Take a motor with a moderate kv rating.Calculate though the wheel diameters and chain or direct drive system the required RPM for a motor to get the desired top speed.Said top speed should be at about 90% of max speed of the motor to leave some safety margins.The key then is to select a motor that has a far high max RPM than what you need, preferably 6 to 10 times, more if you can.Keep the supply voltage in mind when doing this ;)As it was just karts the guy then used sprockets and a chain to get the desired reduction.For the motor usually these tiny sprockets the BMX guys on the back wheel when converting them to something more suite...

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    I had a chat with a guy who did electric racing karts down here some years ago.His theory to make BLDC motors work for more than RC models goes like this:Take a motor with a moderate kv rating.Calculate though the wheel diameters and chain or direct drive system the required RPM for a motor to get the desired top speed.Said top speed should be at about 90% of max speed of the motor to leave some safety margins.The key then is to select a motor that has a far high max RPM than what you need, preferably 6 to 10 times, more if you can.Keep the supply voltage in mind when doing this ;)As it was just karts the guy then used sprockets and a chain to get the desired reduction.For the motor usually these tiny sprockets the BMX guys on the back wheel when converting them to something more suited for tricks.He claimed getting a kart up to 60km/h this way was no problem, with a runtime that is still acceptable to make it through 5-7 "races" around the track before the battery needs to be changed over.Appearently, for better performance, it is best to modfiy the rear axle to a swing arm system like on motorbikes.With a motor system per wheel and an "electronic torque converter" the handling and acceleration would drastically improve.He did not want to go into details though how this electronic torque converter is supposed to work as that design of his is still used in licensed race karts - go figure...

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  • Lead Acid Battery Care and How to Restore Them

    Well, if I mean suphate then I use the term sulfate ;)The ting is that once "dead" you already have far too much sulphate on the plates, which reduces the conductivity, increases the internal resistance and lowers performance.The phosphates are usually kept in solution but won't form on the plates.In return they cause a chemical reaction that reduces the phosphate layer during the charging process.It works by a sustitution reaction but I guess explaining this in too much detail would be just plain boring for most people.

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  • Did you consider to check with your local council?Most have a dedicated hard rubbish collection and a sorting facility.Around here it wouldn't be a problem to get what you want in truckloads every months or so.Similar story for a lot of Op-shops.Some do have people with the qualification to check electrical devices for safety, those who don't often have to discard these things into the rubbish.Asking a few wouldn't hurt and if they have a lot of this "scrap" then they might actually be thankful if you take the "rubbish" off their hands.

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  • Depends on what it is used for.To filter ripple it wouldn't make a difference.If the capacitor is for anything else but to provide a stable and smooth DC you might get troubles.Considering it is a power supply you should be fine IMHO to use 2200µF instead of 1600µF.

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  • You can check Wiki for the USB charging specifications.Apple needs two different voltages while standard Android devices usually only need one voltage on both data lines.Additionally it also matters what type of cable you use.Sadly I have not found the ideal solution for the last bit yet.I have a thin and flimsy cable of 4m length that has no problems charging my phone at 2 amps.But another one that is just 60cm long and uses much thicker wires fails to provide more than 800mA.The newest phones now even require that the charger adjusts its output corresponding to the phone's demand and if that bit fails than the phone switches to a safe mode.In that mode you should still get 500mA though.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Boo-Dings's forum topic Ws2812b led problem 27 days ago

    I had all sorts of troubles with these Chinese LED strips.Does not matter if just the thin strip (LED's fail after a few weeks) or the enclosed ones.The worst for me are the so called waterproof lights as they seem to only keep water in but not out.If you check your trips carefully you will find wet areas that show corrosion.Mainly around the solder points, sometimes also close to the connector bit.Repair is usually not possible once the thin copper layer is oo fa gon.Only way out i to replace the broken sections.No matter how high the rating, for anything that yould get wet or is exposed to the outside enviroment I add silicone to create a better seal.

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  • Well, that is the one thing on my end that isn't broken.At least if you don't follow the Email links and use your profile to get to the messages.Everything from inside Emails is broken for quite a while now...

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  • Downunder35m commented on wanbli61's forum topic Laser perimeter trip4 weeks ago

    Not here for exactly your purpose but there are some for using an Arduino to transmit data.Concept is the same only that you have to deal with a simple zero or one instead of huge amounts of sensor data.I would go from the app side of things.If you find one that could be suitable you will also get info on the required hardware.

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  • Downunder35m commented on wanbli61's forum topic Laser perimeter trip4 weeks ago

    If I understand correctly then your only problem is with the secure transmission of event data.You could you router and home Wifi for this.Or provide an access point from the detector side of things.Means you either send the data through your home WiFi or through an independent network - the later would mean it is much harder to use both your internet over Wifi and check the data on a mobile device.There are also dedicated data transmission modules availabe that use free frequencies and their own encryption.Those can transmit your data and a suitable receiver connects to your router by ethernet.You should find suitable example if you look for Arduini based weather stations and data links.Some usful info also in the Arduino Playground once you found suitable modules for your task.A sligh...

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    If I understand correctly then your only problem is with the secure transmission of event data.You could you router and home Wifi for this.Or provide an access point from the detector side of things.Means you either send the data through your home WiFi or through an independent network - the later would mean it is much harder to use both your internet over Wifi and check the data on a mobile device.There are also dedicated data transmission modules availabe that use free frequencies and their own encryption.Those can transmit your data and a suitable receiver connects to your router by ethernet.You should find suitable example if you look for Arduini based weather stations and data links.Some usful info also in the Arduino Playground once you found suitable modules for your task.A slightly bigger problem might be the app as you might have to code it yourself.For some modules you can get rudimentary examples to be used on Android or IOS.It really helps here to have an unsecure device for testing as otherwise you also need to sign you app for every little change you make to it.Maybe it helps to thing ot of the box and to do a search for mobile apps that do similar, no clue.But I would look for anything in regards to wifi alarm and data transmission and go from the results to narrow it down.

    Why not start small then?Use two Arduinos and a display and make it all use Wifi or similar first.Or go really big and use a home security system that has additional inputs for glass breaking sensors and similar.With that you even get SMS notifications if need be.

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  • I am no expert with the use of flash memory but I think you got it slightly wrong.Please check here for reference.When working with the flah you not only need to get your data in there by defining it correctly (type of data for example) but also by calling it correctly.You pushed the jan data into the flash but you are not reading it from there, instead you try to read out jan as a variable.There is more examples in the Arduino Playground that might help as well, just go over there and have look in the related sections.As said, no expert but I think if you get the pushing and pulling of the flash data done the right way you code will work fine.Did you try to manually ready out the flash to confirm it is going in as planned?If so try the same for reading it out.If both work fine then it ...

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    I am no expert with the use of flash memory but I think you got it slightly wrong.Please check here for reference.When working with the flah you not only need to get your data in there by defining it correctly (type of data for example) but also by calling it correctly.You pushed the jan data into the flash but you are not reading it from there, instead you try to read out jan as a variable.There is more examples in the Arduino Playground that might help as well, just go over there and have look in the related sections.As said, no expert but I think if you get the pushing and pulling of the flash data done the right way you code will work fine.Did you try to manually ready out the flash to confirm it is going in as planned?If so try the same for reading it out.If both work fine then it is just the matter or using the correct commands in your code.

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  • Downunder35m commented on DattatrayaM's forum topic Electric Hub Motor4 weeks ago

    40 what?Miles per hour, km per hour, m/s?.Either way, math is simple...If the motor is on max voltage you need a new motor and bigger battery.Otherwsie just a suitable motor and controller or gearbox.

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  • Don't bother about categories as they don't exists anymore, just a leftover "bug" from a few years ago.In theory it does not matter how you connect the LED's.In reality one should try to keep the current on a reasonable level.Every LED needs a specific voltage and a max of about 15-18mA.In parallel you might be going a bit short on the expected runtime.In series the power consumption is significantly lower but it requires really equal LED specs.Plus of course a suitable resistor for every row of LED's.In parallel a single resistor per bunch of LED's might still work but it would have to be of bigger size.At least 250mW for the resistor, which makes it a bit bigger and causes some heat as well.IMHO and to avoid reworking it all a LED driver might be the best option.They are con...

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    Don't bother about categories as they don't exists anymore, just a leftover "bug" from a few years ago.In theory it does not matter how you connect the LED's.In reality one should try to keep the current on a reasonable level.Every LED needs a specific voltage and a max of about 15-18mA.In parallel you might be going a bit short on the expected runtime.In series the power consumption is significantly lower but it requires really equal LED specs.Plus of course a suitable resistor for every row of LED's.In parallel a single resistor per bunch of LED's might still work but it would have to be of bigger size.At least 250mW for the resistor, which makes it a bit bigger and causes some heat as well.IMHO and to avoid reworking it all a LED driver might be the best option.They are constant current power supplies.Means you set the output voltage you need, like 3 or 5V and the max current - the last should be a fixed value for them anyway.You can also substitude here with some home made circuits using the LM series of voltage regulators.Just check for current limiting voltage supplies.

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  • Not even a car PC psu of that power level will make it into your space requirements I'm afraid.Simple buck converters won't do either as the output is far from what a cumputer would require.I guess you need a bit more space....

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  • Have a look at WiFi enabled SD cards.They are basically a SD card with a built in WiFi module.Means you can access the files from the cam directly over your network.Just picked one quick link from the search as an example, shop around for better prices or more storage space:https://www.amazon.com.au/Toshiba-FlashAir-Wireles...

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  • There is a reason you did not find much with your search.Anything hat has a potential to harm other people comes with liability claims these days.You know littel things like the to be surprised person getting a little scare and dropping the buring thing, causing the house to burn down.Would say that you pay for it or that your friend should suck it up if he was not insured for this prank? ;)Back in glory days of disco fever ever half decent venue hd smoke machines.They were operated with great care.Leave it on too long and the dancefloor had a visibility of less than 50cm...Options like smell and color made it even more interesting.That was fine until too many fatalities happened.Now we use the safe option of sugar water and just keep cleing up the sticky residue everyhere- but the smok...

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    There is a reason you did not find much with your search.Anything hat has a potential to harm other people comes with liability claims these days.You know littel things like the to be surprised person getting a little scare and dropping the buring thing, causing the house to burn down.Would say that you pay for it or that your friend should suck it up if he was not insured for this prank? ;)Back in glory days of disco fever ever half decent venue hd smoke machines.They were operated with great care.Leave it on too long and the dancefloor had a visibility of less than 50cm...Options like smell and color made it even more interesting.That was fine until too many fatalities happened.Now we use the safe option of sugar water and just keep cleing up the sticky residue everyhere- but the smoke is not the same anymore.Using a smoke bombe is certainly fun but ever though about the fumes and products of burning one?Even the tiny ones come with a very valid warning to only use the outdoors.Those for stage use have even thougher requiements to use them.Crazy might be right term here - no offence though I like these ideas myself ;)If not even the Chinese produce something similar for their fun festivals then I just have to guess they know why.After all they invented all this stuff ages ago.

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  • Downunder35m commented on rickharris's forum topic WHY WHY WHY can't I post4 weeks ago

    Tried to post a new topic....Once done I clicked the fancy orange button....."loading" appeared on the button...I wait...I wait...I wait a bit longer but no change.I take a snooze and check again : "loading".I can post replies, I can check my profile, I can do the lot, just not post a new topic.Does not happen all the time, sometimes it just works fine.But it fails often enough for me to ask myself why I still bother to try :(

    Well, checked again and the loading finally stopped.Got the "Publish" button back :)Only too bad that using it only brings back the loading with no end in sight LOL

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  • Downunder35m commented on sher dil's forum topic Train Direction4 weeks ago

    A train (model) is nothing more than a simple DC motor that gets its power from the tracks the train is riding on.Lights are powered the same way.I had a different brand back when I was young but the transformers for trains worked all the same back thenInside the box is a center tapped transformer, rectifier and a wire wound potentiometer.On the "advanced" models you also find a capacitor after the rectifier.The only special part is that potentiometer.The transformer I had used one that had two windings.Center tap of the transformer is zero voltage, and the two halfs provide with the diodes or rectifier a positive and a negative voltage.On the potentiometer the center tap is connected to the output or what goes to power the train.And well, the positive and negative connects to...

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    A train (model) is nothing more than a simple DC motor that gets its power from the tracks the train is riding on.Lights are powered the same way.I had a different brand back when I was young but the transformers for trains worked all the same back thenInside the box is a center tapped transformer, rectifier and a wire wound potentiometer.On the "advanced" models you also find a capacitor after the rectifier.The only special part is that potentiometer.The transformer I had used one that had two windings.Center tap of the transformer is zero voltage, and the two halfs provide with the diodes or rectifier a positive and a negative voltage.On the potentiometer the center tap is connected to the output or what goes to power the train.And well, the positive and negative connects to the windings of the potentiometer.In return you get nothing with the knob in the center but increasing speed or voltage in both turning directions.It is lossy, is is messy and it wastes a lot of energy.A simple and cheap lab power supply might be far too high on the full voltage of around 30v but you don't have to crank it that high ;)And as Jack said, if you add a three way switch you can select the direction of the train by reversing the polarity.Added bonus is that you can see how much current the train draws.Can be quite nice to see problems like worn brushes or similar before they become a real problem.But as said, since you are dealing with just a normal DC motor checking a H-bridge controller might be n option too.Ebay also has cheap replacements for the switches of cordless drills.Not too hard to create something with a dial to press the know in to crank the speed up.And with a bit of tricker you can also include the direction switch into the design - or just operate it manually ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on rickharris's forum topic WHY WHY WHY can't I post4 weeks ago

    It seems I am NOT the only one experiencing this.Started to think I am imagining the struggles.Now to your actual problem...I simply guess you had a normal, brushed DC motor as the original.Brushless DC motors that basically work like a three phase AC motor are labelled differently fo various reason - none that make too much sense though if you ask me."Electrical" values...Your DC motor might have been for 180V or so and had a max speed of lets say 400 RPM with no load at the set 180 Volts.Means you know the torque and speed go down with an increased load while the Amps go up accordingly.A brushless motor like the one you linked comes rated at 580kV.Bad online seller making 580 Kilovolts out of this only add to the confusion.In reality it stands for Thausand RPM per VOLT.Meani...

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    It seems I am NOT the only one experiencing this.Started to think I am imagining the struggles.Now to your actual problem...I simply guess you had a normal, brushed DC motor as the original.Brushless DC motors that basically work like a three phase AC motor are labelled differently fo various reason - none that make too much sense though if you ask me."Electrical" values...Your DC motor might have been for 180V or so and had a max speed of lets say 400 RPM with no load at the set 180 Volts.Means you know the torque and speed go down with an increased load while the Amps go up accordingly.A brushless motor like the one you linked comes rated at 580kV.Bad online seller making 580 Kilovolts out of this only add to the confusion.In reality it stands for Thausand RPM per VOLT.Meaning at 10 Volts it would already spin at about 580.000 RPM.Again both sellers and stores add to the confusion by messing with this value as in reality those motors actuall are rated at 580 RPM per volt.Correctly labelled it would then actually read 0.58kV.Quite often only checking the datasheet or actually asking clear this up properly.The other issue is the stated Watt the motor can tolerate.The higher the RPM the less chance for a lot of heat to build up in the windings.Like your normal DC motor it will be heat up much quicker at low RPM with a high load.There are no real limits for the operating voltage of a brushless DC motor either.Whatever the controller can provide will be accepted.And since these usually go along with certain Voltages from the S combination of battery packs....48V is still considered save enough for a human and usually is the max for standard brushless motors.Higher than this usually means the application is fixed, like in a machine mounted to the floor - with proper isolotaion and all.Like whe dealing with mains power...If we take these 48 Volts and the stated 4000W we get a max of about 83 Amps.This certainly can only be for short bursts and with forced fan cooling or similar to keep the windings cool.But just doubling the voltage and we get about 40 Amps...Again the confusion wouldn't be perfect if some manufacturers and sellers would "translate" the power to the speed of a normal DC motor.In these cases they would simply divide the Watts with the RPM's.For example if a standard 200W DC motor does its job at just 5000RPM while the brushless cousin makes it to a max of 25.000RPM the divide the max Watt of the brushless motor by 5 to match the RPM.Or the other way around by multiplying the Watt value of the DC motor accordingly.Whether or not you can use a brushless DC motor without a gearbox to replace the 250W DC motor depends on many factors.Most of all the corresponding speeds, voltages and torque values.

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  • Make Clear Ammonia From Cloudy Ammonia

    It does work if the soap used is of that kind.But it also leave the problem of having the lime in the ammonia.Hence the approach to destill it out and concentrate it while at it if required.

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  • Downunder35m commented on KulvinderBoparai's forum topic Wiring a Bubble Machine4 weeks ago

    If I interpret the drawing correctly then you might have blown something already.Great job providing the details here !Here is what should have been connected to what:Try it like this;Mains power (live) to the switch.Mains power neutral connects to neutral on the transformer and motor.From the switch you take the switched mains power and connect it to the transformer and motor live connections.Like this the switch will then turn on the motor and transformer.The output from the transformer goes to a rectifier you need to add.Means the 12V output of the transformer connects to the AC input of the rectifier - polarity here does not matter.Output of the rectifier as labeled on the casing goes tot he fan motor AND capacitor - poistive to positive and negative to negative of course.If the fan...

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    If I interpret the drawing correctly then you might have blown something already.Great job providing the details here !Here is what should have been connected to what:Try it like this;Mains power (live) to the switch.Mains power neutral connects to neutral on the transformer and motor.From the switch you take the switched mains power and connect it to the transformer and motor live connections.Like this the switch will then turn on the motor and transformer.The output from the transformer goes to a rectifier you need to add.Means the 12V output of the transformer connects to the AC input of the rectifier - polarity here does not matter.Output of the rectifier as labeled on the casing goes tot he fan motor AND capacitor - poistive to positive and negative to negative of course.If the fan did not blow up during your first attempt(s) then it shall work now.In case it does not: please check if actually 12V is coming out of the transformer!As it provides AC it should not need a big load connected to it but some of these LED transformers simple switch off if you start them without a load.You can also just connect the AC side of the transformer to mains power and measure with a multimeter if 12 AC is coming out, might be a bit higher without a load, so maybe 18V.No output at all: Try adding a 12V / 10W light bulb to the transformer output.If the light goes on when you connect mains power then you might need to keep the light as a ballst for the transformer to operate.Could double as a nice spot light for the bulles as well.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Kiteman's forum topic Unable to view comments4 weeks ago

    Well, it is always nice to know the code monkeys are aware of some problems and trying to fix it.Thanks for the update!And please give a bunch of bananas to the code monkey(s) - they deserve a treat! ;)

    Not sure if it is really related but:I noticed that quite often these background things that appear in the bottom bar of Firefox when loading a website take like forever to complete.At least for me it then means in those cases that I am facing problems.The redirector for some (or all) buttons seems to play up as well.Almost as if the script behind it is pointing to the wrong area code to execute.Like we had a while ago when clicking buttons did nothing at all.

    Nice if it is indeed fixed for you, but here the problem is persisting.Following a comment link rom my Emails gets me nowhere and the comment tracker is still empty.But at least your topics seem to make it here while mine last few ones all seem to be published in the digital nirvana.Maybe we should start to donation buttons everyhwere!?If everyone visiting the site donates 5 cents we might get enough money to employ a second coder for maintenance and bug fixing....

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  • Downunder35m commented on yourlocalnoob's forum topic Movie Tickets4 weeks ago

    You might know what the exact problem is, but I can't follow it.If someone posts a freebe then someone will use it.Why would the ink fade ?As said you made it quite confusing ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on sher dil's forum topic Train Direction4 weeks ago

    Transformer or SMPS followed by a rectifier and H-Bridge.The h-bridge you can even buy as ready to go components if you look around as they are a standard motor control element.But at least for me nothing beasts the old transformer with knob on top.Corroded contact or worn ones are fixable and can be cleaned as well.

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  • Downunder35m's instructable Quilting Templates in Metric's weekly stats: 4 weeks ago
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  • Downunder35m commented on iceng's forum topic Your full of Bugs !4 weeks ago
  • Might be stupid question but why not make some additions to the switch for the fan?For example a simple slotted disc and IR- gate sensors salvaged from an old ball type mouse.Disc is on the shaft of the switch, the sensors positioned so the slots go through them correctly.In the off position the coresponding slots are filled or covered.Position one and the first gate has a free slot in it.Position two has the second one activated.Position three activates the first and second.For all five position you would need sensors from another mouse but it continous in the same binary pattern.Of course you can also use a small magnet on the knob and small reed switches to indicate the position.Both solutions offer a total isolation from the mains voltage and the best safety for the user and electro...

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    Might be stupid question but why not make some additions to the switch for the fan?For example a simple slotted disc and IR- gate sensors salvaged from an old ball type mouse.Disc is on the shaft of the switch, the sensors positioned so the slots go through them correctly.In the off position the coresponding slots are filled or covered.Position one and the first gate has a free slot in it.Position two has the second one activated.Position three activates the first and second.For all five position you would need sensors from another mouse but it continous in the same binary pattern.Of course you can also use a small magnet on the knob and small reed switches to indicate the position.Both solutions offer a total isolation from the mains voltage and the best safety for the user and electronics possible.Just think about it and you might get the idea you need to create something that does the trick for you ;)

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  • You need the drivers for the Arduino board in use.So if the thing is detected as an unknown device and complains the drivers you downloaded are not for it then check the serial chip used or the datasheet for your Arduino board.With the right driver is it then as easy as uploading your code with the Arduino IDE - after selecting the right board of course.Maybe these links give any additional clues:https://www.instructables.com/id/Tiny-GPS-Tracker/http://arduiniana.org/libraries/tinygps/Keep in mind though that not all FTD drivers work with all cloned boards, or specifically the serial chip in use.And well, if use a tiny, naked Arduino board then you need something to program it directly with a serial programmer for example.As I always say: Provide all the details we could possibly need a...

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    You need the drivers for the Arduino board in use.So if the thing is detected as an unknown device and complains the drivers you downloaded are not for it then check the serial chip used or the datasheet for your Arduino board.With the right driver is it then as easy as uploading your code with the Arduino IDE - after selecting the right board of course.Maybe these links give any additional clues:https://www.instructables.com/id/Tiny-GPS-Tracker/http://arduiniana.org/libraries/tinygps/Keep in mind though that not all FTD drivers work with all cloned boards, or specifically the serial chip in use.And well, if use a tiny, naked Arduino board then you need something to program it directly with a serial programmer for example.As I always say: Provide all the details we could possibly need and we won't have to try to interpret what we see in our crystal balls ;)

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  • Cameras can only be "detected" on a hobby level once the IR is activated.Best IMHO is a cheap nightvision monocular.With those and in the dark you can nicely see "illuminated" areas from the camera as well as the camera lights itself (even if claimed to be invisible).Viewing angles can't really be detected so you would have to go with common sense and location.For example a cam on the corner of the house watching over the entrance will have a focus on that areabut not wide angle.A cam in front of the house to watch the footpath might be a wide angle one though.Try to imagine what the person would preferable see as clear as possible from that cam location.A cam in the back corner of the house aimed towards the front but with another house close by makes most sense wit...

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    Cameras can only be "detected" on a hobby level once the IR is activated.Best IMHO is a cheap nightvision monocular.With those and in the dark you can nicely see "illuminated" areas from the camera as well as the camera lights itself (even if claimed to be invisible).Viewing angles can't really be detected so you would have to go with common sense and location.For example a cam on the corner of the house watching over the entrance will have a focus on that areabut not wide angle.A cam in front of the house to watch the footpath might be a wide angle one though.Try to imagine what the person would preferable see as clear as possible from that cam location.A cam in the back corner of the house aimed towards the front but with another house close by makes most sense with a narrow field of view and a certain amount of zoom.Unless people really spend big money the cams will be without audio.Consent is funny thing these days.In most areas a house owner does not need consent from a neighbour when putting up cameras.Just not part of the council or city bylaws.You can fight it in a civil court on the base of the possibility that your neighbour records you.Unless your little kids love to play naked in the backyard you won't have much chances though."Reasonable" is the term used.Like it is reasonable to assume the neighbour records on a loop and only keeps recordings of incidents.Or that it is reasonable that your neighbour is not watching the security footage 24/7 just to collect recordings of you.But it is also reasonable to expect the neighbour is doing the right thing and won't abuse his security system to cause trouble for other people.As long as all is "reasonable" there is little to no point in making a fuzz about cameras anymore."Protection" against spying cameras....In some cases a person might want to limit the use of a neighbours cam.For example if one of them would have a more or less clear view into your bedroom.Apart from covering up there are only two things that I consider plausible to work.a) Using some IR lights aimed at the camera.You can get "IR flood light" or additional IR LED rings for cameras quite cheap on Fleabuy.Even during daylight they work fine if the camera does nout use a strong IR filter.At light it is literally like someone is hollding a flashlight to your face - you are blind, or better the cam is.b) Direct attack with a small laser pointer - be aware of the illegal sides here!If nothing else helps then a laser aimed directly at the lens will certainly overpower the chip and prevent any clear images.The legal laserpointers with a power of around 0.5mW in red do just fine here, same for the green ones.Downside, apart from the legal stuff, is that most toy lasers are not rated for continous use.And wasting a few hundred bucks just to blind a camera is not for everyone.Get caught and the law will be quite strict these days.If you are really got then of course some paintball gun would do fine too ;)If you are really concerned about the legal and privacy issues then check state, county/council laws in regards to authorisations and restrictions.But as said, sometimes "protection" is valued higher for properties than for people...

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  • So called "security" or "spy" shops online offer what you need from cheap to proffessional.I know corresponding apps also exist at least for Android.Like those where you place a filter foil over your cam to search for IR light sources or those RF detectors that show you if there is transmitting devices close by.To know what sort of detector you need you first need to know how important you are.A CEO of a big company certainly will have to deal with better listening devices than some babysitter on a 4 hour assignment.This means one will encounter frequencies totally outside normal bands while the other only needs to worry about the common and free frequencies like WiFi, UHF and so on.Similar story for the cam itself.Only spy toys make use of IR lights, pro devices won...

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    So called "security" or "spy" shops online offer what you need from cheap to proffessional.I know corresponding apps also exist at least for Android.Like those where you place a filter foil over your cam to search for IR light sources or those RF detectors that show you if there is transmitting devices close by.To know what sort of detector you need you first need to know how important you are.A CEO of a big company certainly will have to deal with better listening devices than some babysitter on a 4 hour assignment.This means one will encounter frequencies totally outside normal bands while the other only needs to worry about the common and free frequencies like WiFi, UHF and so on.Similar story for the cam itself.Only spy toys make use of IR lights, pro devices won't use it to AVOID detection and instead use very light sensitive lenses and chips.Then there is the problem of recording and transmission delays.To avoid detection many devices only transmit once the motion stopped for long enough or not at all - like thise babysitter monitor teddies.There are detectors that are able to find even a cam that is only recording and has no transmitter at all, just by detecting the very weak EMF produced by the electronics.Apart from being very costly those only work in a clean enviroment, having several cell phones, computers, lights and such working makes their use next to impossible.

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  • I guess you want to create a wireless Dolby system on the cheap.So lets start with some basics:Your controller needs to be able to split the channels and sort them for the individual speakers.The timings need to be matched to avoid delays and really weird sound effects.Even if you just want 5 stereo speakers.All receivers and transmitters need individual BT addresses and NAMES/ID's!The pairing needs to be limited so each receiver can only pair with the corresponding transmitter.If you need to compensate for distance then of course you need to adjust the signal delay accordingly.For the actual audio part you need to seperate the channels and if the signal is digital, like HDMI, then you also need to decode it.Let me know once you got the audio and pairing problems sorted.

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  • As said I would just use a purpose built door holding magnet.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Mpc1055's forum topic Arduino Pish Button code Issue5 weeks ago

    I have not run your code but think the problem might be within your loop.Both if functions for the button pressed could go in the same section.Only other thing is the actual adding and subtractions.Although you defined a delay it is quite possible that your Arduino gets confused.Count is set as an integer with the value 000 - it would make sense to make this just 0.A statement like press=count++; is logical from a users point of view.However firstly defining press like count to 0 and then actually adding real values would be better.Similar to press=press+1; or press=press-1;Inlcuding a check for zero and negative numbers should be added as well.My suspicion is that your press count stuff at some stage cause invalid results.A computer always needs to have clear and defined states, for th...

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    I have not run your code but think the problem might be within your loop.Both if functions for the button pressed could go in the same section.Only other thing is the actual adding and subtractions.Although you defined a delay it is quite possible that your Arduino gets confused.Count is set as an integer with the value 000 - it would make sense to make this just 0.A statement like press=count++; is logical from a users point of view.However firstly defining press like count to 0 and then actually adding real values would be better.Similar to press=press+1; or press=press-1;Inlcuding a check for zero and negative numbers should be added as well.My suspicion is that your press count stuff at some stage cause invalid results.A computer always needs to have clear and defined states, for the rest we need to tell the thing what is going on ;)

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  • Downunder35m's instructable Dual Tone Emergency Whistle's weekly stats: 5 weeks ago
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