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P.S. I had a lot of trouble soldering the 8g wires to the print bed. 8g is very thick wire and doesn't solder easily to the small solder tabs on the heated bed. I dropped down to 10g, but even that is difficult. In the end I has to solder terminal lugs to the sires and then solder them to the heated bed. As a result the 1/4 inch spacers were inadequate and I had to print longer spacers (12mm in PETG.)
Hi Danny,Nice printer. I am in the process of assembling a version of it. I decided to print parts for the frame instead of using aluminum parts (I have another printer and this is RepRap after all.) I also decided to mount the motors in the base, although it is a tad crowded under there. My big question is: why the suspended extruder? Wouldn't a fixed Bowden extruder work just as well? Also, is the counter weight used solely to suspect the extruder, or does it have some other function related to the printing process itself?
DIY Arduino Based Mini CNC Machine New Design
Hi, I'm a newbie to all this hardware stuff, too, and I had a similar problem. Turned out I didn't quite understand how breadboards work. I thought the + and - horizontal rows spanned the entire length of the board, but turns out they are separated into blocks or sections (2 on my board). Make sure you have the 3.3V and the GND lines attached to the breadboard block that contains the sensor wiring.P.S. A Raspberry Pi T-cobbler/breakout board makes life much easier for prototyping circuits with a breadboard.