Tell us about yourself!
I had a space above the entry to my garage that was just begging for this project. Worked perfect for a 10x30 matrix. (boy was that a lot of cutting!) Turned out super fantastico. This shows that you can modify this instructable for probably any size matrix you want. BTW, I took the advice from comments and skipped most of the soldering by using ws2812 strips. Thank you for the great instructable.
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Looking forward to building this beautiful project. One thing that put me off was the high price of the glue sticks in the link (roughly $48 for 64 sticks). I did a little searching and found a 5lb box (approx 85-90) 10" sticks on Amazon for under $22. Check it out here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBC4CWK/ref=p...
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Really interesting and you're right, I had no idea humans could eat acorns. Along the same lines, are you aware of a way to process Buckeyes? I have a mature tree that drops many hundreds of them each fall. Never know what to do with them.
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Here's a thought. Do the same but instead of pennies use arcade tokens! (you can buy them buy the pound on eBay.)
Really cool! Thanks for posting this link.
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Decided to change the digits to my favorite color...Purple. You can't see it in the photo, but the colors on this little panel are gorgeous!
Love this clock! Finally got it working today. I also was having problems with getting the esp to connect to my wifi. In my case it turned out that the esp board doesn't like unusual characters in the SSID name. For example, I had used the SSID name of ^o-0^ . My phone, laptop and everything else could connect to it but not the esp. I changed it to all letters and boom! the clock connected to my network and is now working!
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Nice instructable. I'm most of the way through my setup and have run into a brick wall. Advice please? My project consists of one long string with 250 leds. The problem comes in when I try to configure the E1.31 network. The instructions say to enter the total number of leds x3 into the Last Channel box. In my case this would be 750. But....you cannot enter any number larger than 512 into the box. I'm stuck. Surely I'm not the only person to run a string this long. I've ran a power injector half way along the string and am able to run an arduino string test to verify all leds light properly. Any tips or tricks to help me finish my project?
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Very nice instructable! I'm also a watch hobbyist and hate to see a nice watch tossed away instead of being repaired. One comment: Using the same technique, you can replace your glass crystal with one made of Sapphire. While being more expensive than glass it is virtually scratch resistant and will look like new for a lifetime. Sapphire is what they put on most of the higher end watches.For those asking how to size a crystal for their particular watch: You measure the old one and order a new using the same dimensions. For this you'll need a digital micrometer. Fortunately these are fairly inexpensive and you can buy them on eBay. Where to buy a replacement crystal? Two sources I've used: esslinger.com and crystaltimes.net
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Looks terrific and can't wait to build this. One concern I have. I want to place this clock in an area that does not have Wifi. Can I build it, program it, set the time via Wifi and then move it to it's new location? Or does it need a constant wifi connection to sync time?Thanks!
You would have flicker that would drive you insane.
The LED strips are barely warm to the touch even though I'm using the foam insulating tape. I have no worries about a fire hazard. I have used the aluminum LED channels for a project inside my house with great results and would strongly recommend them for this purpose. However, this is a garage. I choose expense and functionality over beauty. Using the aluminum channels in the garage would have added hundreds of dollars to the project.
If I misspoke about it being safe and legal, I apologize. All the power supplies I used are UL listed. I assumed the 12vdc lighting was legal because you can go into any big box store and buy DIY kits for under counter lighting, etc. This is the same concept. I'm sure many of those are not UL listed.
None that I'm aware of. The lights run steady.
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Great instructable. I had a lot of fun making it this weekend. I did a few things different as you can see in the photo. I don't have access to a 3D printer so I just used hot glue to mount the laser and Arduino directly onto an old PC hard drive. This gives it a heavy, solid base. I had a few Arduino Nano's on hand and they work perfect for this project. Finally, I didn't want to go battery power so I found an old 5vdc wall wart and used that instead. Note: if you go this route, you'll want one that puts out 1.0 amps or higher. One last thing, I bought a pan / tilt housing with servos on ebay for under $15. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-2-Axis-Arduino-Pan-Tilt-Mounting-Kit-and-2-x-9G-Servo-with-Gear-Mounting/222293251320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649I pl...
Great instructable. I had a lot of fun making it this weekend. I did a few things different as you can see in the photo. I don't have access to a 3D printer so I just used hot glue to mount the laser and Arduino directly onto an old PC hard drive. This gives it a heavy, solid base. I had a few Arduino Nano's on hand and they work perfect for this project. Finally, I didn't want to go battery power so I found an old 5vdc wall wart and used that instead. Note: if you go this route, you'll want one that puts out 1.0 amps or higher. One last thing, I bought a pan / tilt housing with servos on ebay for under $15. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-2-Axis-Arduino-Pan-Tilt-Mounting-Kit-and-2-x-9G-Servo-with-Gear-Mounting/222293251320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649I plan to make one more change and that's to add a shutoff timer. Again, great job! I really appreciate your work and uploading this project.Ken
Nice project. It would be really helpful if you posted the schematic of how everything is connected. It's really tough to figure this out just from your photos. Thanks!
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What a simple, fun project! Thank you 'dpeach'. Took me about a half hour to solder the wires together and install. I used 3M outdoor tape to attach to the underside of my trunk. This stuff works terrific. 30 inches of white LEDs light up my trunk like a beacon. Superfantastico! I'm going to look closer at this and my other vehicles to see where I can add more lights.
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I'm running about 50 meters off a single power supply. No problems so far.
If you are only using a single strip, an option is to buy aluminum channels with covers like these. I bought a set and they're terrific.http://www.ebay.com/itm/10m-10pcs-1m-led-aluminium-profile-for-10mm-5050-5630-3528-strip-led-channel-/252827312089?
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Wow. Good point. I don't really need a diffuser. It would probably just collect dead bugs anyway.....
In step #6 I said "You can get them from any of a hundred vendors on ebay. Do a search on: 5M 300LEDs SMD 3528 5050 5630 3014 RGB Flexible LED Strip LightsIf given the option, choose the 5630 non-waterproof variety. At least that's what I used."I felt that was pretty clear.Regarding the computer power supplies. If you are at all worried about insurance coverage in the unlikely scenario where they burn up your garage, make sure you use ones that are UL listed. I am interested in learning more about white reflective half domes you mention. Would you please post a link?
I agree. I've noticed that the color quality varies from strip to strip. But in my case, it's a freaking garage so I don't care. You may also be right about the life span, but again, it's a freaking garage. I have the lights on for maybe 30 minutes per week. For me, the cost savings outweigh any negatives.
One of the computer power supplies I used had a noisy fan so I just clipped the wire. I did it an an experiment to see how hot it would get. The results? After an hour, it's no warmer to the touch than any of the others. A year later and it's still holding out just fine.
Neat project. I think it will be a fun winter project for me and my cat. Here's an idea that would speed up the movement and extend the life of the servos: Instead of mounting the laser on top of the servos, mount mirrors on each one. Then mount the laser in a stationary position and point at the movable mirrors.
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I haven't added a diffuser, but am thinking about it. There is nothing ready made to fit over trusses, but I think a guy could take a diffusion panel, cut it to width, then use a heat gun to form the panel over a 2x6. I'd like to do it, but not sure if it's worth the effort. The LED strips only get slightly warm. The outdoor tape is working perfectly.I'm guessing I saved easily $2000 - $3000 over a commercial product. Look it up. Commercial LED lighting is crazy expensive.
The heat dissipation is really a minor issue as the LED pixels are barely warm to the touch. The L-Brackets would certainly simplify the project and you most likely wouldn't need to buy the expensive outdoor tape.
Nice! I'm proud of you for doing it.
I totally agree. I didn't run mine in series just for that reason.
Are you maybe trying to use a Laptop power supply? Those usually run at 19vdc. Most electronic devices (LEDs etc) run in a voltage RANGE, meaning that a LED designed to run at 12v might operate just fine from 10 - 14 volts. I haven't researched the voltage range that these LED strips run on.
The garage is another story all in itself. 1.5 years of miserable work but now I finally have the garage of my dreams.
I'm using 5 PC power supplies for this project. One for each of my trusses in the garage. I run about 7.5 LED strips off of each PC power supply. So far so good and the PC power supplies are not even warm to the touch.
30 watts per LED strip. I used about 38 strips, so a bit over 1100 watts. Less than a hair dryer.
I don't think there is an issue here since it's all 12vdc, low voltage.
Amazon. See the link on the last page of instructions.