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I have a 50amp industrial variac. However, your rating depends on how high you want to go. If your building a 3kw heater than 10-20A is fine.
I initially used 1/4" stainless for venting. I changed it to 1/2" for venting.
That's a great deal. Nice job scoring that.
You need to get the proper solenoid valves that can accept that voltage. If you can not find this you need to get a step-down transformer.
Go to my website tutorial which goes into much greater detail and explains the purpose of most of the components along with schematics and picked oriole diagrams I give the name of the website at the top of this instructable
No oil when using concentrated O2. You should be able to find some lithium or silicon grease. Many SCUBA compressors use something like this. I've had one valve stick once and I fixed it by cleaning the solenoid valve. I probably have a reference on my Liquid N2 site at www home made liquid nitrogen dot com
No, 40 psi works fine. Make sure you are connected to the correct port. They should just work. I would call the company.
The valve opens when under pressure. The gas goes one of the two on top and through the single vent on the bottom, pressurizing the tank. When the power goes off the pressure pops the valve, opening the other vent. If the valve is not brand new there may be dirt that is making the solenoid stick and you will need to carefully disassemble and clean it. You can also call Versa. If you do not like your valves I have two for sale that work perfectly.
nooil residue mixed with liquid oxygen causes explosions
The project will probably run about $1000
Interesting. I might try it and see if there is a significant difference. I would have to use a solder gun and not a torch. If I used a MAPP torch the temperature might change the properties of the steel tubing, reducing its failure pressure rating and risk a pipe rupture. Solder, though, may not stick to the smooth stainless steel surface. I'll post my findings if I do it.
Alysson I'm just curious I've received a lot of comments today how did you find this instructable? was it featured somewhere ?
Look at the videos on the link. O2 diffuses into the porous CMS due to the high pressure and N2 rich gas exists.http://www.homemadeliquidnitrogen.com/PSA/CMS%20material.html
Visit www.homemadeliquidnitrogen.com/PSA for more information.Each tank is isolated with a solenoid gas valve. Both tanks join at the bottom and feed to a flow valve that controls the amount of gas that exists. This allows the pressure to build since more gas is going in than coming out. See the diagrams at the above link.
I think I left the contact information on my website tutorial for the N2 generator.
I currently have a matching pair of two brass Versa 1/4" 3-way valves that I used for this project. If you are interested in them you can email me privately. They are $130 a piece or $240 for the pair. They are practically brand new and in perfect working condition.
Send me your email and I'll reply back with the arduino file you need for the build.
I think if you go to my website tutorial the code is there.http://homemadeliquidnitrogen.com/PSA
Air. You should read the full explanation at www.homemadeliquidnitrogen.com
Smaller scale - yes.With PVC? Not a good idea. With the given diameter of the tube and a pressure over 100psi you risk bursting the tube and getting shrapnel in your body.
The higher the pressure, the purer the outgas. I get over 98% pure with a pressure of 130psi. You can do 100psi and get about 95-93% with the same amount of material. If you use narrower tubing you will need very long pieces to hold enough material to get a reasonably concentrated gas.
I got mine from Interra Global. See if Bill Wallace is there. He helped me.Tell them Crystal Clear Solutions referred you. I don't get anything from it but I'd like them to keep track of this. Let me know if they can help.
You can get a little more info at www.homemadeliquidnitrogen.com/PSA
The sensor gives a reading of the AC current waveform that drives the coupling transformer connected to the RLC tank (the part with the Celem capacitor and work coil). This is not necessary to get the circuit to work: it provides information on the proper function of the system. Knowing this, I attached a diode and smoothing capacitor to a DC ammeter to get a constant analogue reading of the current. This is important, because if the current gets too high I know I will overheat the mosfet switches. For the smaller circuit this was about 20A; for the 10kw units this was about 50-60A for short periods. I used a voltage divider to feed the current value into the uProcessor and wrote a subroutine that constantly monitored the current. If it got too high I detuned the circuit to reduce ...
The sensor gives a reading of the AC current waveform that drives the coupling transformer connected to the RLC tank (the part with the Celem capacitor and work coil). This is not necessary to get the circuit to work: it provides information on the proper function of the system. Knowing this, I attached a diode and smoothing capacitor to a DC ammeter to get a constant analogue reading of the current. This is important, because if the current gets too high I know I will overheat the mosfet switches. For the smaller circuit this was about 20A; for the 10kw units this was about 50-60A for short periods. I used a voltage divider to feed the current value into the uProcessor and wrote a subroutine that constantly monitored the current. If it got too high I detuned the circuit to reduce the current. This is useful if the workpiece falls out of the coil. When this happens the current shoots up without anything to quench the tank. Having this feedback I could quickly reduce the current and protect the mosfets. I was thinking of producing a second generation board that would also get input from a thermocouple connected to the mosfets and would shut the system down if the temperature got too high. I never did it as I sold my project to a blacksmith.I hope this helps. You can go to my site http://inductionheatetutorial.com for a little more information.
If you look at this schematic from my tutorial websitehttp://inductionheatertutorial.com/inductionheater...the sensing transformer is there on the right side.
You can get a better idea of the parts and cost at my tutorial website:http://homemadeliquidnitrogen.com
Very nice. I built my analyzer. However, I got the O2 electrode from an anesthesia machine. You will have to find that part. The rest just involved building a circuit that could sense the voltage generated by the electrode and convert that to a value between 0 and 100.