# jvandeyacht

Once you know me, you will never forget me.
• 2 months ago

Where did you get your wattage and color layout plan from? I have been looking for the theory/math for an LED grow light system that works with seedlings then flip switch and color plan changes to growth/flower. Your Led color layout seems to planned for random, so I was just wondering where your science in it came from.

• jvandeyacht completed the lessons Diodes, Transistors and Integrated Circuits in the class Electronics Class2 months ago
• jvandeyacht completed the lessons Resistors, Inductors, Switches, Getting Started With Electronics and 2 others in the class Electronics Class2 months ago
• Sorry it goes like this(100psi@10gpm)------~~ (100psi @8GPM)(100psi@10gpm)------~~--------------------~~------(100psi@6gpm)(100psi@10gpm)------~~-------T-----------~~-------(50psi@6gpm).........................................((50psi@6gpm).........................

There is voltage and there is amperage. Think of a garden hose, the pressure of the water is the voltage, the flow of water is the amperage. Resistors can affect both, but it is how they are hooked up that does it. Mostly, they affect amperage. if you kink the hose (kink is resistor) there is still the same pressure (voltage) but the flow is limited. Now, if you had two kinks but a T connection between the two, then the pressure at the faucet is still high, say 100psi (volts) and can flow at 10 gallons per minute. the first kink still has 100psi but reduces the flow to 8 gallons per minute. the 2nd kink still has 100psi but flow is at 6 gallons per minute. All this does is affect the flow (amperage) BUT, if we put a tap inbetween the two kinks and add a new hose, then the pressur...

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There is voltage and there is amperage. Think of a garden hose, the pressure of the water is the voltage, the flow of water is the amperage. Resistors can affect both, but it is how they are hooked up that does it. Mostly, they affect amperage. if you kink the hose (kink is resistor) there is still the same pressure (voltage) but the flow is limited. Now, if you had two kinks but a T connection between the two, then the pressure at the faucet is still high, say 100psi (volts) and can flow at 10 gallons per minute. the first kink still has 100psi but reduces the flow to 8 gallons per minute. the 2nd kink still has 100psi but flow is at 6 gallons per minute. All this does is affect the flow (amperage) BUT, if we put a tap inbetween the two kinks and add a new hose, then the pressure is reduced. Now there is only

50psi on both hoses, and the flow is still 8gpm at the first out hose and 6gpm at the 2nd. If we change how much the kinks are, then the flow (amperage) and the pressure (voltage) changes between the two. it is quite simple, if you can put it into a perspective of which you can imagine.100psi @10gpm ---------~~------T------~~----------------------(50psi @6gpm) I I (50psi @ 8gpm) I (100psi@8gpm)

• jvandeyacht commented on sweetB's forum topic solder sucker?2 months ago

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Infant-Baby-Newborn-Bulb-Ear-Syringe-Sterile-In-Package-Soft-Latex-Free-2-Oz/488576349

• I prefer to use the solder sucker. For a cheap find, just go to the baby isle at your closest 'Evil Empire' and get the bulb for sucking ears and noses. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Infant-Baby-Newborn-Bulb-Ear-Syringe-Sterile-In-Package-Soft-Latex-Free-2-Oz/488576349 I have several of these and they work just fine &&& don't cost a premium for packaging that says specifically for solder.

• Not really. There are way too many variables. The proper way is to put it on an engine sled. One that has extrememly little resistance to linear movement. Then mount the engine on that sled and attach your measuring device to the sled. For gross measurement, a fish scale would work, but if your planning on flying it in RC, then you would need something far more accurate. THis is about the only way to get a real measurement of thrust. The mathematical way you are talking about only gets you close. From there, you can add more blades of finer size/distance to compress the air more or add a larger intake or a smaller exhaust. But shy of the sled/scale, you wont get anything accurate enough of a measurement of thrust other than ballpark. I have built several small turbine engines as w...

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Not really. There are way too many variables. The proper way is to put it on an engine sled. One that has extrememly little resistance to linear movement. Then mount the engine on that sled and attach your measuring device to the sled. For gross measurement, a fish scale would work, but if your planning on flying it in RC, then you would need something far more accurate. THis is about the only way to get a real measurement of thrust. The mathematical way you are talking about only gets you close. From there, you can add more blades of finer size/distance to compress the air more or add a larger intake or a smaller exhaust. But shy of the sled/scale, you wont get anything accurate enough of a measurement of thrust other than ballpark. I have built several small turbine engines as well as rebuilt, PMCS'd and maintained older helicopter turbines for racing boats. We always had to use an accurate sled. Even A&P folks do it that way. Maybe not to the gram with the real deal since they push many pounds, but same thing. small engine - small scale; large engine - large scale. Lastly, YES, I know. The turbo-fan jet engines on helicopters actually use the main shaft to turn the transmission to turn the main rotor and tail. If you make minor changes to the engine so it pushes air instead of power and speed to a shaft, then the same engine can push a vehicle, just not as efficiently as spinning a shaft on a rotary wing or an impeller in the water.

• jvandeyacht commented on VexFX's instructable Leather Plague Doctor Mask7 months ago

OMG OMG OMG OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOGMOGMGOMGOGMGOMG I have been looking for something like this for a while. I ABSOLUTELY Love your project and I so badly want to do a version of this for this year.... OMGOMGOMGOMGOGMOMGOMGOGMOGMGMGOGGMOMG..... THANK YOU!!!!

• jvandeyacht commented on printeraction's instructable Basic Gear Mechanisms8 months ago

check out https://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html I use this to design and print all of my gears that I end up cutting out of wood via a bandsaw and scroll saw.

Non round gears is a multi step process. First, you want to find the shape that you want, it can be almost anything but don't have your lines come back on themselves, ie, always go forward with your pencil, no back wards drawing. lets use a square for example, Next I use a online utility that I posted a link to in several replies in this 'ible. and I create a design of a rack and pinion using the size of teeth I like. Next (3) I print out the rack portion so I basically have a straight edge of gear teeth. Next (4) I start at one edge of my square and with the top of my teeth-edge lined up with the edge of the square, I trace my teeth onto the square. at the corners, you need to pay attention to the size of the spacing when you trace around the edge so that the width of the tooth ...

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Non round gears is a multi step process. First, you want to find the shape that you want, it can be almost anything but don't have your lines come back on themselves, ie, always go forward with your pencil, no back wards drawing. lets use a square for example, Next I use a online utility that I posted a link to in several replies in this 'ible. and I create a design of a rack and pinion using the size of teeth I like. Next (3) I print out the rack portion so I basically have a straight edge of gear teeth. Next (4) I start at one edge of my square and with the top of my teeth-edge lined up with the edge of the square, I trace my teeth onto the square. at the corners, you need to pay attention to the size of the spacing when you trace around the edge so that the width of the tooth or valley is consistant with all of the rest.After the teeth are traced on my first template, then I cut it out with a scisors. U like to use a thicker acetate sheet like the old overhead projector sheets. Next, I take that template and bring it to my next shape and as I rotate my first one, I am tracing the teeth onto the next. The trick is, your basically putting the pencil edge on the very tip of the tooth on your first template and as it swings around inside of the line on your second odd gear, your tracing the valley of the 2nd gears teeth. Then back them up to the point where the next tooth touches the line and then trace its center.this is a lengthy but simple process and in the end, you get two crazy looking gears that will mesh correctly. I will see if I can find a video on it as I know there are many. These two videos don't show quite what I am describing, but they come close. I will try to make a video for you when I make my next set of templates. enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-GPfgQ_c2k and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTeOrCxqzBs

• jvandeyacht commented on J_Hodgie's instructable MechWatch - a Custom Digital Watch8 months ago
• Taxidermy furs dont need to be clothing quality. If your just going to process it and then put it over a mount, you can treat it and then let it dry. it will be stiff as cardboard, but with taxadermy, it doesnt matter. You cant figure out down to the ounce as to how much you need. no two animals will have the same square inches. Doing the alum way, I buy the items by the pound. Borax is by the box but a box will be way more than enough for raccoons, possums, fox's ect. Work it by experimentation, make a bowls worth and test it, if it is way to much, then cut back a little the next batch you make.When you get it processed, I usually put mine on a frame and stretch them to dry hard. You want to use the alum-borax to process the skin to keep it from rotting or getting eaten by bugs.Wh...

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Taxidermy furs dont need to be clothing quality. If your just going to process it and then put it over a mount, you can treat it and then let it dry. it will be stiff as cardboard, but with taxadermy, it doesnt matter. You cant figure out down to the ounce as to how much you need. no two animals will have the same square inches. Doing the alum way, I buy the items by the pound. Borax is by the box but a box will be way more than enough for raccoons, possums, fox's ect. Work it by experimentation, make a bowls worth and test it, if it is way to much, then cut back a little the next batch you make.When you get it processed, I usually put mine on a frame and stretch them to dry hard. You want to use the alum-borax to process the skin to keep it from rotting or getting eaten by bugs.When you get your form, I will use some alcohol to wet the skin so I can work it, though not wet- soaking. just enough to soften the skin a little.Once you folded and pinned your fur on the form to verify proper size form, then tie the fur over it to let it dry again. It will be stiff, but then you can work it off the form and continue your glue down and taxidermy process.It is worth it to take taxidermy classes, even if only online. part of a good taxidermist is to find you own processes for skin-fur-feather-scale processing. Taxidermy is far more than just slopping a skin on a form.

putting your hard skins in a big tumbler with hard balls and turning it for a few hours will work quite nicely too. If you can get a 55 gallon metal drum, then you can make a good tumbler for cow/cattle skins. Ive make a metal drum into a bulk fish scaler by pounding hole into the drum and tumbling in water. making a base with some cheepo wheels from harbor freight and a big riding lawnmower belt with a 1/4 hp motor is not only cheep but works wonders.forget the shoulder busting branch breaking method, process the skin and tumble it. it is how the commercial industry does it and for good reason.

I know this is old, but good for future....If you want just the leather, your hide is fine. If you want a fur, then it is toast. The best thing to do is to always salt the heck out of it, then roll it up and stick in freezer until you can process it. I usually roll mine into burlap so the freezer can help dry it by way of evaporation. if it is in a bag, it cant get dry very well while frozen.I find commercial products to be easiest as they have everything there and instructions with better pictures to follow than this .. rehashed . not much for experience . ible. Personally, unless you did the work and can show it, you shouldn't be posting an ible. taking info you took from other sources and rehashing it out is not the point of this website... just my opinion.The turpentine way wo...

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I know this is old, but good for future....If you want just the leather, your hide is fine. If you want a fur, then it is toast. The best thing to do is to always salt the heck out of it, then roll it up and stick in freezer until you can process it. I usually roll mine into burlap so the freezer can help dry it by way of evaporation. if it is in a bag, it cant get dry very well while frozen.I find commercial products to be easiest as they have everything there and instructions with better pictures to follow than this .. rehashed . not much for experience . ible. Personally, unless you did the work and can show it, you shouldn't be posting an ible. taking info you took from other sources and rehashing it out is not the point of this website... just my opinion.The turpentine way works quite well for small furs. Mine usually come out stiff. The author eluded to parts of the finish work on furs but from lack of doing it, never finished this ible.Once you have processed your furs, you put them in a big drum, or in my case, a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, as well as sawdust, some rubber / plastic dryer balls and tumble them for an hour for small or 2 hours for larger furs. The point of this is to beat up the skin and make the whole thing very soft and workable. I use 2-1 by volume of sawdust to fur skins. 4 balls per square foot of fur. after tumbling, I will take out the furs and check them. if the skin is soft enough for my needs, then it is done, if not, it goes back in for another half hour at a time until complete.then you just shake off the dust, vacuum it till nice and clean. You can wash them if you choose, but make sure you dry them completely as fast as you can, the skin is now tanned, but it can still rot if wet for too long, or it will/can dry hard.Do your own research or read the instructions from a commercial package. This ible is almost useless and will leave you with a rotting, stinky, chemically scary mess. It is not complete enough to properly process a fur.Sorry if I offended anyone - truth hurts.

• Aww you cheated.. I was wondering how you got such a good glue job and yet left the inside weathered with different width wood. Paint..... It’s like being a kid and seeing how the magic show works....This is super cool. I’m not going to make a cube but plan on using this technique to make bizarre shelving in the bar. Thanks for the brilliant idea.. super cool!

• i learned that lesson the hard way, I have had a finger ripped off of my gloves from the table saw a few times. Now i have tight fitting shop gloves. I will still wear gloves, but only form fitting. The ones she is wearing in the picture with the mitresaw most definately are not the ideal route to go.

impressive work. I have spent the last year looking at other peoples ideas and designs for my small shop. I need one part dedicated to small gas engines as i like to rebuild 2cyl snowmobile and jetski engines and 500-700 cc motorcycle engines and the rest for woodwork. Your glued wood work surface keeps coming up as ideal, and your process that you used looks the most simple. I saw your other videos, WOW, you put a LOT of work into that. I am incredibly impressed. I would have thought you used a router for flattening the counter, not hand plane and power planer...I am impressed.

• jvandeyacht commented on Yonatan24's instructable Impossible Screw in a Block of Wood1 year ago

You can use carbon steel. Take your block or piece, drill your holes, insert your item, TIG it closed, grind it clean, then tarnish to a fine petina.

• jvandeyacht commented on More Cowbell's instructable Easy Generator to Home Hook Up1 year ago

If you calculate for lambda and delta, your generator will never..... be able to push enough wattage thru the lines to hurt anyone on the other side of the transformer. Most houses or small squares are all on one, maybe two phases. When your pushing, your pushing thru one phase of the transformer and the resistance due to inductance of the singular phase will resist the step to the other side. I'd still never consider energizing my box from a generator without an interlock in place anyway. My insurance company will deny all claims from electrical issues if one is not in place. This is true even if the generator isn't hooked up. I'm not looking to start a fight and it's always best to play it safe but know that if you do the math, you can't push across the transformer if you have an av...

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If you calculate for lambda and delta, your generator will never..... be able to push enough wattage thru the lines to hurt anyone on the other side of the transformer. Most houses or small squares are all on one, maybe two phases. When your pushing, your pushing thru one phase of the transformer and the resistance due to inductance of the singular phase will resist the step to the other side. I'd still never consider energizing my box from a generator without an interlock in place anyway. My insurance company will deny all claims from electrical issues if one is not in place. This is true even if the generator isn't hooked up. I'm not looking to start a fight and it's always best to play it safe but know that if you do the math, you can't push across the transformer if you have an average home generator of 10k or less and hooked up to one phase.

• jvandeyacht commented on Paige Russell's instructable How to Dry Herbs1 year ago

Paige.... I have never met a Paige that was not creative and awesome or one that I didn't like. Keep up the greatness.

Yea, those dang cats make more noise than 3 frogs at the same time do too.... in all seriousness, microwave ovens cook and destroy the cell walls, air dried herbs and peppers are best. Just like when smoking meats, slow and low last forever where as fast and hot spoils the pot.

• jvandeyacht commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Unusual Uses for Vaseline1 year ago

Good luck holding down the button on a spray paint can.

Lol, did you hear the one about being able to drill a hole in your Iphone to increase your gain and to turn on all features? Pj directly on lenses...... sheesh.

• jvandeyacht commented on Kandrix's instructable Wooden Fidget Hand Spinner under \$12 years ago

Dan, have you ever heard the old phrase; idle hands are the devils tool? This fidget toy is something that just allows you to keep your hands busy and occupy your mind so you don't drive everybody nuts by running around and being crazy. I have several fidget toys that I keep under my desk while at meetings so I can focus more on the meeting. It is amazing how it works something small and simple.

• Even though it's soft,I love Walnut. It smells good, it looks good, it's easier to work with, and it looks good. I know I said that twice,it's on purpose. There's a local shop by my house gives away their scraps from furniture making. I love using the scraps instead of letting it go to waste. Beautiful work on those cutting boards, I'll have to do that for Christmas gifts this next year.

• jvandeyacht commented on BobbyArndt's instructable Pruning Tomatoes For Maximum Yield2 years ago

I never compost tomato vines. I did that 15 years or so ago and got blight into my compost bin. Had to completely start a new bin to use in tomato garden. I will mulch the tomato vines in my yard and use it to help the grass.

• This one is funny as they get. Some really great ideas too. I keep a bag for all of my orphan socks or ones that I won't wear anymore. I typically use mine for polishing the fine flatware or for polishing chrome and aluminum parts on the motorcycle. Then when I'm done, I just throw them away. I don't like cleaning a washing machine after cleaning oily or otherwise chemically contaminated rags. Thank you for the great instructible

My kiddo does that. She prefers non matching brightly colored under armor type of socks but I think the whole point of the instructible is to just have fun and repurpose items we would just otherwise toss out.