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Great job! Thanks for sharing this. I found an easier way to convert the photos to 4bit though, using this online conversion site:https://online-converting.com/image/convert2bmp/Even if they still look colored after converting to 4bit, they look grayscale on the e-paper!ThanksThanos
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Thanks for the demo gameplay. I think you placed a wrong video link in section 6 though... ;)
This layout is even better than pacman...! I think you should make the character jump when you touch the screen, so you can jump over the barels ;)
Ok, I had bad screen... I replaced the R1 on the bottom of the PCB of the screen with a 10 Ohm resistor and now I can see the image of the pacman clock. I still cannot setup correctly the touch. I used the Adafruit touch library and corrected all the references to pass the values of the library to the main code but now every time I touch the touch screen it resets the arduino... hmm... May I ask you for the code with the changes you did for the touch to work? My email is " tronicgr at gmail . com "ThanksThanos
Thanks for the solution for the touch. Its for this screen here right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272219211370 What did you use for the UTFT setting? "UTFT myGLCD(ILIxxxx_16,38,39,40,41); "I tried all the known models from UTFT, but the screen was staying black (only backlight was on). I just hope this is not just a defective screen...
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Looks good! I wonder if anyone will try a yellow color case :)
I had trouble too making the touch work, when i had it plugged in a computer usb port. When i used a wall usb charger the touch works fine.Must be the voltage issue, PC usb is 4.95v while wall usb chargers are 5.2v
Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Park-Display-Modul...It looks exactly the same as the SSD1289 that I have on front/back marking... hmm.
Oups, I take that back. The screen ILI9341 screen I use is in Shield form for arduino and only SPI: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1947 But I also have this one that can be driven in 8-bit parallel mode! Much faster! https://www.adafruit.com/product/2090Now If only could get the I2C touch driver to work as well... :)
I removed that small delay, but didn't fix much. I suppose the SPI interface is still too slow for this animation of both sprites. Also the code freezes as soon as I replace the URtouch with the Adafruit capacitive touch library, must be a conflict between the UTFT and the I2C FT6206 driver. I'll give it another try later but not sure if it will be resolved. As far as I know all the ILI9341 screen I seen are SPI interface and up to 2.8inch, haven't see any 16-bit parallel versions of this screen except the larger resolution ILI9481 screens (480x320). So I'm not really sure if the "Industry Park 3.2 TFT ILI9341 from Amazon is really an ILI9341.
Hi, I have an issue with the SSD1289 screen I just received. It looks like its skipping vertical lines or shifting them on the edges of letters or objects... See photo. Any suggestions? Also the contrast and the color quality totally sucks compared to the other screen I have (ILI9481, res 480x320), another reason I'll put effort to resize the code to the larger resolution screen when I get a chance. Another issue I got was trying to fit the larger screen in the case, I had to file down the edges of the PCB that hold the SSD1289 screen to fit in place! Sure they used much extra PCB area around that screen!
Ok, in "initlcd.h" I changedLCD_Write_COM_DATA(0x01,0x2B3F);to LCD_Write_COM_DATA(0x01,0x3B3F);And its fixed now.The LCD has these markings on the Back:www.saismart.comTFT_320QVTAnd the Front markings on the touchscreen are:INABO-TP32D 2-4
Thanks I'll check into that, and share updated code as this ili9341screen has I2C touch controller (adafruit capacitive screen)
I'll try it, thanks. Still doesnt fix the bad contrast and color quality of SSDxxxx LCDs. the ILIxxxx models are way better! See the next video where I attached a 2.8 inch ILI9341 SPI screen from Adafruit (Slow screen but works):
Thanks for the update! It would be easier if you put all the files of the code in a single ZIP file to download. Saving from Internet explorer does not save with correct filenames but random characters like i.e. "F4CIZM9J08EDEJQ"
Yes, a button on screen to activate the sound, or enable it randomly or by events would be cool. I'm very happy with the 3D printed version of the case, see on the photo how accurate the lip clips on the newly printed face plate and stays on with no glue.
I added a manual switch to activate the alarm sound (to check it). But I got an idea. Perhaps I'll modify the code to use an extra input switch to activate the alarm everytime it eats the cherry... ;)
Thanks! I melted a small piece of filament to join the lip to the front plate, much better than glue! Then cut and sand the excess melted material to make it flat.
And a photo of it done...
Ok, I designed a lip for the front plate, and a new front plate that have hooks to clip on it. See it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183736Printing it right now.
I was going to redesign it in one part with lip, but then it would make it hard to print with the current quality. Perhaps i can modify your part (lip) with hooks to clip on the frontpanel (design clip retainers on the faceplate).
Its just using the dimensions of the instructable.
Looks great gray too! Great job! Any chance posting a thingiverse with the additional lip on the front? I assume its glued on right?
Thanks! I'll be watching for it! I have some photoresistors laying around.
I agree about how hard is to resize to larger screen. But I plan to do it once, with ratio variables that depend on the choosen dimensions of the screen. This way you may resize it to even bigger resolution display if you wish just by naming the dimensions of the screen on top of the code. You might need new set bitmap files for each resolution as they dont resize as easy. It is extensive rework and might take awhile, but it worth it.
Hey! Adafruit just featured the 3D printed case remix I did, for 3D print Thursday! https://blog.adafruit.com/2017/03/23/pac-man-clock...
It didnt use much filament at 0.3mm height print. I think total 40-60 meters. I have a cost estimator option on the slicer, total cost was about $4 on filament... i buy filaments by 1kg reels that cost $30-$40, and print lots of stuff non stop since i got the printer 4 months ago...
No, you dont resize it that easily like in raspberrys. You need to resize all objects and locations in the code to the new size of the screen.
Thanks! The Filament I used is Bronze PLA from MatterHackers
Thats the plan, as soon i have revised code for the larger screen working I'll share it on thingiverse remix files, follow that for updates as soon its ready. :)http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183736
I updated the 3D print with front panel that has 3d printed grill as well...
I did a remix for the 3D printed case with hooks on the front-back plates to mount it on the case body without glue if you wish too. See it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2183736Thanks
Thanks! It lead me to the tools folder in the UTFT library and there it is!
What tool did you use to convert the pacman and ghost character bitmaps to C code data? Any link to it?
Ok, so I'll need to do changes in the code to resize things. I'll do that while waiting for the new screen with touch panel on it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272219211370 I also got the time set by compile time for now, using the system variable: "__TIME__ " and "__DATE__"
I found this tft that I think its perfect for the retro pacman clock... no need for shield, it has level shifting chips on it already and plugs directly on the ATmega2560: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272219211370It even breaks out some unused pins! :)
Ordered all parts on EBay to make it with 3D printed enclosure. Thank you for this work! Its amazing! The screen I ordered is an SSD1289, I think that's what you are using right?
Retro Pac-Man Clock