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Oh, I’ve looked it up - it’s a US-only thing. That’s why I hadn’t heard of it.in NZ, we have a thing called the ‘Yates Guide’ which gives a pretty good indication of what grows where, but then we are about half the size of California, a couple of big islands and we span the same number of lines of latitude as the USA. We don’t get the same sort of variation you have - pretty temperate / moist the whole country over :)
We are on the equator - growing isn’t so much of a problem. Bugs and keeping what you grow is a problem :)
A lot of those shipping cartons have a plastic barrier, which slows the breakdown down, but isn’t a problem in a couple of years :)in fact, it’s a better barrier than plain cardboard and funnels water to the roots of the plants. The plastic will degrade eventually, much faster than in landfill.
What do you mean by ‘zone’?
This is great! It’s close to the same method used in Permaculture, but they use all sorts of stuff as a barrier - old clothes, etc., and just lift up a corner as you have more stuff to tuck under.Old shoes and boots, bits of wood, carpet, cardboard, newspaper, anything organic will soon be taken apart by the biota underneath. They even eat the boot soles... although that takes a couple of years.https://www.regenerative.com/magazine/9-step-easy-sheet-mulching-techniquehttps://permaculturenews.org/2016/01/22/mulching-with-purpose-and-precision/
Using a laser power probe designed for CO2 lasers, like a Mahoney power probe.
You don’t get a black edge on paper and card if you are using your laser correctly. A 40W A4 Laser is around US$350 with everything you need to cut up to 5mm ply, mdf, etc. and thicker if you’re patient.
Nice job. I’ve wanted some high-powered LEDs, now I know what to do.thanks
Try paint stripper designed for acrylic paint. Works great.
You can use paint stripper designed for acrylic paint - it’s main chemical constituent is ethyl acetate, is safe and you can just brush it on, wash it off.
“So currently, there is no easily accessible chemical to smooth PLA the same way acetone does to ABS.”Heaps of them.Probably the easiest is paint stripper for acrylic paint. Safe, easy to use. Cheap.Then there’s MEK. Get it just about anywhere in the world.
NodeMCU is firmware supporting Lua.This poorly-named instructional is about using ESP8266 with the Arduino IDE
Lampshades: Support Hardware & How to Choose Them
What ^^^^ said.Here is some smart code for NTP automatic clock, with geopositioning, so no matter where you are, the time is correct - DST and all.https://github.com/myk3y/RingClockHe uses FastLED library with WS2812B LEDs - same as NeoPixel.
I work a lot with extruded alu. Right-angle brackets are great for keeping things aligned square, but butt joints require pulling the T piece into the upright for stability and strength. If your T-slot nut becomes loose, it can fall apart in seconds - there's only a couple of thread rotations holding them together, where a bolt is in many turns and will give you lots of warning of failure.I use self-tapping 40-50mm M6 stainless hex head bolts, which don't require you to tap the hole. I simply drill using the correct size bit to allow the bolt to bite and then screw them in with a battery drill set to ratchet mode (don't over tighten on battery, do it by hand.) Hex heads make it a breeze.I use these (or equivalent). Drilling the alu is easy with a hand drill, lubricate the hole and let i...
I work a lot with extruded alu. Right-angle brackets are great for keeping things aligned square, but butt joints require pulling the T piece into the upright for stability and strength. If your T-slot nut becomes loose, it can fall apart in seconds - there's only a couple of thread rotations holding them together, where a bolt is in many turns and will give you lots of warning of failure.I use self-tapping 40-50mm M6 stainless hex head bolts, which don't require you to tap the hole. I simply drill using the correct size bit to allow the bolt to bite and then screw them in with a battery drill set to ratchet mode (don't over tighten on battery, do it by hand.) Hex heads make it a breeze.I use these (or equivalent). Drilling the alu is easy with a hand drill, lubricate the hole and let it find its way. Only drill as deep as the bolt will sit - no need to waste time and effort. Drilling the facing side out to allow the bolt head to sit flush is best done with a drill press.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Cylinder-head-self...
Large Motors Class
He means 'fine art' oil paints - they are nearly all thinned by linseed oil, hence, oil paints. You get them at art stores. The good quality (Winsor and Newton, for example - http://www.winsornewton.com/au/shop/oil-colour/wi... ones will work just fine, but just whatever is local will work as well.
What a useful instructional, thanks.I always thought copper had to be brazed. You didn't specify what kind of solder - you shouldn't use lead/tin solder for water or any application that will deliver something that will be consumed. For those applications use a good-quality lead-free solder.
I've been there - the NodeMCU is OK, but I would recommend using the WeMOS D1 Mini over the NodeMCU - cheaper, better designed: https://wiki.wemos.cc/products:d1:d1_miniI think my best price was about $6 including shipping, plus they have a bunch of nice add-on shields, including a great little 64x48 pixel I2C OLED display.Since I bought the D1 Mini, I haven't looked at a NodeMCU, and I have a bunch of them.
Using something like an ESP8266 and the Arduino IDE would achieve all your existing requirements, is wifi-attached and much, much cheaper than an R'Pi.Using WS281x LEDs and the Arduino FASTLed library gives you control over colour and brightness.You can use some of the smart networking libraries available which creates a hot-spot, allows you to connect and set up on your home network, which means you can send them to friends, etc.
Depending on the level of GPS support you need, you can get an I2C GPS with breakout for >$10: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-GYNEO6MV2-GPS-Module-NEO-6M-GY-NEO6MV2-Board-with-Antenna-R179T-Drop-Shipping/32815376782.htmlNot that I would consider building a lamp with GPS :) But they are great for playing with.
Introducing LoRa™ !