Welcome to Instructables

On this page you can find links to some of our most frequently asked questions. What is this site? Instructables is a place that lets you explore, document, and share your creations. How do I post an Instructable? We offer a free and easy online class to coach you through posting your first Instructable or you can just wing it and start a new one today. How do I get help improving my Instructable?Ask the community for help in The Clinic. How does my Instructable get featured? The best way to get your projects featured is by following the Featuring Guidelines. Where can I learn more about contests? Our Contest FAQ has all of the information that you need to know about contests. What contests are launching soon? Check out our list of upcoming contests. Are you on social media? Yes! Follow us on Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter. How do I contact Instructables directly? The best way to contact us is through our Contact Page.

Posted by randofo 5 months ago  |  last reply 17 days ago


Site updates, upcoming changes and developments

As it seems the support team is still working hard to improve this ection I would like to take the opportunity to provide a base for everyone.Users can post bugs they find, feedback or suggestions for features they would like to see or have here.The support team could be so nice to keep us updated about what is planned and when to expect some problems or hick ups.Maybe even a list of things already in the planning for us.There is already a quite long list of requests that grew over the years, so maybe the support team could start the conversation with some infos? ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 6 weeks ago  |  last reply 9 hours ago


Replies for questions and topics still not working

I tried for about half an hour to answer some questions but gave up due to being unable to enter any text.Logging out and back did not help, same for a reboot.Guess I am not the only one trying to answer things to no avail....And by the way: Do we get a fix for the useless categories?Fail to see the point of selecting a catergory and channel if nothing ever appears in said areas...

Posted by Downunder35m 3 days ago  |  last reply 10 hours ago


I need an air moisture meter and possibly a thermometer in one.

Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.

Posted by PavelA12 14 days ago  |  last reply 11 hours ago


Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Medical Device. Cash Compensation

Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Possible prototype for a Medical Device. Cash Compensation. I am in Toronto. Not a scam.

Posted by dnicol1 25 days ago  |  last reply 12 hours ago


The Clinic // Get help with your instructables!

Hello and welcome to the newest version of The Clinic! If you have an instructable that's not getting the attention you think it deserves, post it in the comments below for honest feedback and suggestions to improve it from fellow authors and Instructables staff. We want to help you create the best instructables you can! Curious about the basics of creating an instructable? Check out my FREE How to Write an Instructable Class! You can also read through our Featuring Checklist. Posting a great instructable has many benefits, including: More viewsMore comments and followersHaving your instructable Featured on the site Having your instructable featured on our social media accounts (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest)Better chance to win contests Driving traffic to your websiteP.S. While I know the goal for any instructable is to get Featured, it's not the end goal here! We're sure to hand out features, but please keep in mind not every instructable is feature-worthy. Even the most popular authors have unfeatured instructables! Don't let it get you down - you're still amazing! :D

Posted by jessyratfink 3 months ago  |  last reply 15 hours ago


Magnetmotor - really impossible or just supressed?

When someone starts talking about a so called magnetmotor than most people judge right away.Laws of physics, perpetuum mobile is impossible, magnets are static....We all know the limitations nature puts on us... That however did not stop quite a few people since the 1950's to build working magnet motors. Or, to be precise: To make the claim, show them and then somehow disappear. A few though seem to have survived and even claim to make good business. Securely closed machine, stellite tracking and 24/7 online monitoring. Either just a bad and long running hoax or a real attempt to keep a secret secret. Even the somewhat famous Yildiz motor showed off around the world only to disappear.Some like them, some don't. Either way all this sounds like the perfect conspirary theory LOL So lets take a look on what is fake and what might be real but missing some vital clues. You can find several good Youtube channels created by people trying to build a working magnet motor. Some of them have no problems to admit failure and still keep trying and updating their projects. Did long enough and you see two outcomes. The first is giving up or "realising" that it will never work. The second often seems like a user is getting some relly good results and is really close to keep the magnetmotor running. Both disappear without and updates or traces. Now of course this is just confirmation that it will never work, but then again: What if it did already quite a few times? Even Tesla had patents for a magnetmotor and so far none of his patents were a hoax. Although none of his patents allow to actually build a working devices without some additional info and knowledge. And that is the key that I am trying to get: The lost knowledge.How can a magnetmotor never work? That one is quite simple from the start. If a linear model won't work no matter where you start then a rotary version will fail as well. And if a linear version works, it has to do so far at least 5 segments and with preferably increasing or at least constant speed. Having said that and assuming you know a little bit about magnetism: Ever wondered about shapes of magnets?? The common types are block, round like a bar and those disk like ones, some even with holes. A less well known version is the ring magnet. You can look them up as well as their corresponding magnetic field geometry - or what is assumed to be the right geometry. To give you a clue: All those floating spinning toys use a ring magnet in the base and onother one in the spinner. In the center is a dead zone for the magnetic field that is far lower than further out on the ring. And the strnger outer fields also reach further - giving the entire spinner a bowl like area to float on, the spinning just stabilises it like a gyroscope. A similar flat disk magnet wouldn't have this indentation in the field but rather a dome like sphere. The ring just kicks a dint into this sphere if you don't mind the simpification. Similar changes in the field structure happen when you combine two or more magnets. One example we all know is stacking identical smaller magnets. And often we are suprised how much stronger two thin disk magnets are compared to a single. Distance however sets a certain limit. And take those hook magnets... Just a small ring magnet in a metal pot with core. Remove the magnet and just by itself it is far weaker. Why? Quite simple.... The same way a transformer core directs the magnetic flow, the metal part of the hook magnet provides a shortcut for the magnetic field - and in return all is much stronger ;) Now you have some more clues, but still there are tons of options for failure... The most common is the sticking effect. No matter how well you planned and designed in most cases you linear or rotary prototype will stall sooner or later. Even if started manually at high speeds some seem to run very long but once they slow down and stop it is obvious they always stop where the magnetic field won't allow the binding effect to be overcome.Wouldn't dare to say that I have a working magnetmotor, but I might have some clues you want to try if you decide to give it a try yourself. So how COULD a magnetmotor actually work? Like in the Perendiv examples all over the web, you could aloow a moving responder to the rotor. Like a piston the responder will be lifted in areas it would otherwise limit or reduce the speed of the system. Well designed only a few mm would b required but it also means wasted energy to move the responder. Then there is the nice way of modifying fields by adding magnets in different angles and polarities. Lets say towards the end of your stages on the linear model it is hard to overcome the binding effect from the end of the previous stage. The perendiv model would now somehow change the distances. But you can also add magnets to lower the binding effect ;) Like a ring or hook magnet you can shape the field and offer a stronger repulsin field or a lower binding force. Last but certainly not least is the option of adding magnetic metals like iron or somehow weirder ones like bismuth. So, do we have any examples of something very common utilising any of this? We sure do :) Take a speaker apart and you end with the cage, the membrane, the actual work coil and the magnet. We don't need anything but the magnet so take a good and very close look. What in the audio world is called a shield to prevent the magnet from messing with things close by is exactly the same as on a hook magnet ;) Only difference is the tiny gap for the coil. The magnetic field is directed into two paths, one by the metal core, the other by the inner enclosure of the magnet or the magnet itself. The coil operates in the area of maximum flux.Last hints... If you take two identical and strong magnets with north or south facing up then it is quite hard to push them very close together. But check what happens if you try the same wen both soth poles (or both north poles) are placed on a magnetic surface - if in doubt your standard fridge door. Suddenly you can move much closer together with the same amout of force (not considering the added friction!). And similar story for opposing configurations. Where in free air or on a table the magnets would just jump together, on a metal plated you can move them much, much closer before this happens. Copper pipe and magnet fun :) Ideally you would have a straight copper pipe and a cylindrical magnet that has a loose fit in the pipe. Aluminium pipe work too or even a roll of aluminium foil if you have nothing else. A magnet in the pipe will travel very slow down the pipe, friction is not an issue here. So what is slowing it down? The magnet creates a field in the pipe and through that the pipe generates electicity. And funny enough this electricity creates an opposing magnetic field in the pipe - the magnet slows down. Even if you glue it onto a wooden stick it won't rush through it. Trying to push it by hand and you feel the created resistance. The faster you push, the harder it is to push! If you made it all the way down here with the reading then I have to assume you fit into one of three of my categories. a) You are a total sceptic and just read it for your amusement. If so, then please don't post a reply with usual negative feedback, instead see it as the same fun you had reading it ;) b) You are at least curious and like to play with magnets. In this case take the above as inspiration to explore more ways to have fun with your magnets! c) You are more or less frustated because you wasted a lot of time and some money to build a magnet motor that just won't work. A and B might go on and enjoy the fun, C however might want to read very attentive now ;) If you take some indicator sheet for magnetic fields, like these funny green ones, and play with moving magnets then you see a very interesting effect on the "screen". The otherwise static field lines change chape and sometimes even seem to disappear or shrink. With a small rotor assembly it almost looks like flashes when the magnets move past each other. This effect is often totally neglected and to be honest I overlooked it for a long time as well. Being able to see how the magnetic field changes gives the thing an whole new dimension so to speak. Creating a magnet with a complex shape is difficult to say the least. Only ferrite or ceramic ones can be used and you would cut of machine them according to your desired shape and with regards to the orginal center of the magnetic field. So most people revert to the classic way of shaping by adding magnets of various types, sizes and amounts. Modern neodymium magnets make this trial and error process easier as there are many sizes and strengths available. Add a detector shield of suitable size and you have hours of fun time ahead of you. But doing so in any rotary assembly is next to impossible. So what did Yildiz differently and what was missed so many times? Yildiz took it a step further and not only provided "shunts" to create very strong magnetic field from the generated electricity but also a second rotor. Since we all start small lets focus on the basics first. Remember the hook magnet and speaker or the copper pipe? Some examples for shape shifting your otherwise static magnetic fields: 1. A magnetic metal "connection" from one (low in the armature) pole to an opposing (high in the amature) pole with cause the field from the "high" pole to "bend" towards the connected magnet. 2. A magnet with an orientation of 90° to the last magnet is the sequence will severely influence the field of this last magnet! This goes for either orientations! 3. Adding a non-magnetic "shield" around a magnet, like a piece of copper pipe, will not affect the static field of the magnet. However it will severely alter the field of the enclosed magnet when another magnet passes it! It will also affect the overal field during the passing as the moving magnet will also induce a field in the copper by affecting the field of the enclosed magnet! Thickness and lenght of the shield influence the strength of these effects. 4. In a simple perendiv motor design the bar that creates the attraction for the spinning part is a magnet too. Either a long bar type or two small ones with an iron or nickel rod between them. There is no need for a piston or something that drives the bar up or out of the way ;) Just use the right magnet at the right spot on your rotor to repell the bar ;) Mount the ar with suitable springs and you suddenly can have multiple stages on your rotor instead of just the usual one! Don't forget the moving magnet on the opposing side of the segment in question though as otherwise you still will get stuck. (Hint: You can place a small but powerful magnet in the center of the opposing bar ;) Just make sure you limit the springs movement so the bar won't be pulled closer)Ok, hold on now! Does a magnet motor actually work or not? I can only give hints and say the laws of physics as we know them apply to magnetmotors the same way as everything else. Unlimeted motion without supplying energy is not possible. Limited motion with adding or using energy however is still possible and real. The same is true for being able to machine, 3D print or otherwise manufacture at very tight tolerence and accuracy levels. This includes bearings or bearing systems with very little friction losses. Just check these floting and rotating magnet toys that look like a spindle. Only a tiny needle like pin makes contact with a glass surface - next to no friction loss. A proper and supposedly working magnet motor should provide more energy than what it uses - one way or the other. No law of physics lets us get around the fact that such a motor could only keep spinning if the produced power or motion energy is at least the same as what is required to make it move. Magnets lose their strenght over time, they are like a very slowly depleting battery. So, isn't it funny that all magnet motors so far that claimed to work also had the requirement to replace the magnets once the things fails to work or start? And if you leave a very strong neodymium magnet shielded from outside fields or magnetic stuff than your grandkids will still find a quite strong magnet. Do a little performance test with your new magnets, like how much force is required is required to lift them off a steel plate. Make the same test with the magnets once you played around extensively with them in your motor. Now take a spare magnet that was never used from the orginal batch and compare both against each other ;) If the motor would not use energy then why are the magnets depleted to a certain degree, realted to runtime and usage time? Wait a minute! Does that now mean it actually works? Lets just say energy is certainly used. We only know similar effects from electromagnetic systems. But did anyone ever really check how much actual energy is in magnetic field generated by a non electric magnet? Get a good sized N52 neodymium magnet and check how much force is required to pull it off a steel surface. Now try to get the smallest sized electromagnet capable of that force and check how much energy it consumes at the level that equals the pulling force of the N52 magnet ;) Makes no sense to even try to compare these you will say now. I just say energy is energy and we were formed to only think in certain ways and don't even try silly things like this ;) To keep the fun up let us imagine we would actually have a similar energy available than what our electro magnet would require. In reality more because we wouldn't have electrical or flux related losses in the metal around the coil. Or is the imagined reality, no clue ;) If true it would mean even a motor with very bad efficiency would be able to create huge amounts of torque. Well, torque is basically acceleration. Which would mean our motor would not just be happy to spin, it would speed up until the bearing fail or the thing is ripped apart. Imagine a dental drill of that size and weight suddenly falling apart at full speed... Every example of motors claimed to be working, that are not fakes, seem to be happy no matter what the load is. It the thing turns a generator than it would have to slow down a bit with the increased load but they don't. With no limited factors otherwise this makes them a fake. Even a perfect motor would have to react to load changes.... Don't we agree that the stronger the magnetic force or field in a conductor the stronger the resulting magnetic and opposing field of the conductor? We use the difference to either drive a motor or take out electricity... But if you take the "open" shielding of a magnet in a changing field than the influence of the shield on the overall field gets stronger with stronger field changes. And properly desinged and orientated they would actually double as a natural limiter for the rotation speed. Once the electrical energy in the shield becomes too strong it will be able to cancel out the field of the enclosed magnet...If we assume a magnet motor is really possible and works with the intended output to keep it spinning or even take energy out: Then what would be possible downfalls that stop this thing happening in everyones garage? We can explore the stars but so far no one bothered to invent anything to visualise magnetic field in a 3 dimensional way other than by simulation. No realtime and true observation like this. The few working technologies that exist rely on sensors, interpretaion and filling in gaps. But imagine something like a detector shield as cloud! And then even better with selctive spacing to get a realtime view of where exactly the field lines go. All we can do is forget our teaching and try it out anyway ;) If by some mistake a magnet motor would really work right away, then chances are high the inventor would wonder why that thing takes off like mad and how to stop it. Unless well prepared it would certainly end in the destrution of the motor. But the inventor would know what to look for in the next prototype. The logical conclusion would be to the couple the energy taken to the speed while physically limittin the free load speed. The other one would be the design the electrical generator around the and within the motor. To even get close to this point you would have to spend endless days and nights working on finding a solution. The closer you get the more disappointment when the final model still fails to keep spinning for more than a few hours. Most people will then accept defeat and move on... Still not saying it actually works but if you made it to this point in time where it could be easier to move on and do other things:Ever wondered what would happen if you "shield" a magnet with a coil? Of course nothing would happen as we know. But try this in some fixed assembly that allows you move another magnet through the field of the shielded one. Perferably witha force gauge or some option to read out the energy required to move it through the various stages of the field. See what happens if you short the coil or add a resistor to it ;) Now if this coild is able to produce electricity then the more we use the more the effects on the required force would change. What do you think would happen if you combine common coil relations of electric motors to a "coil shielded" magnet motor? Right, all these coils would interact with the magnetic fields of the coils they are connected to... And through that with the overall field surrounding the enclosed magnet..... I leave up to you to imagine how these interacting coils could provide "resistance" or "acceleration"/"surplus electricity"...Like they say: You can only find out if you try ;) To keep up the positive thinking: A permanent magnet just sticks to any magnetic surface and does so with the same force. But the real energy loss in terms of getting weaker can almost be neglected. Any electromagnet capable of the same holding force woul require ongoing energy supplies to keep it up. It is using energy the same way the permanent magnet does! The difference is the permanent magnet is not seen as anything that would provide us with energy.... And if it can't provide energy other than passing through coils then why the heck does it keep sticking to the fridge year after year? It does require energy to keep this weight up doesn't it, even if you add a thin teflon disk and oil to reduce friction? ;) No magic, no "free energy" bogus, just plain physics viewed from a slightly different angle than what we learn in school ;) Have a good laugh and a good beer, then read it again and just consider some of the things here that are not mentioned in any literature about magnetism that we commonly use. Now I got you thinking, didn't I ? ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 1 day ago


Concrete propane grill - Heat issues?

I'll be making a concrete counter top for my outdoor kitchen. I'll shape a "box" in the concrete (just like a concrete sink), and build the propane burners into that. Will I run into any heat issues with the concrete? Should I line it with something to shield it from heat?

Posted by DenMike99 21 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


How to convert 120VAC to 90VDC @ .5amps?

Hello, I'm looking for a circuit the will convert 120VAC to about 90 VDC at .5 amps. If anyone could suggest a schematic or point me in the right direction of one that would much appreciated!

Posted by bigjohn412 25 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Cyclists....

Just for fun this time!We all love bycicles.Enjoy nature, loose some kilos or just having some fun with the kids.I even like to ride if I find the time and the right weather.But what about those courier riders in the city?Those fitness fanatics riding in a pack of 30 and surprising you on a winding mountain road by fully blocking it...The guy hitting you from behind on the traffic lights because he was only looking on his phone...Or maybe this drunk guy in the middle of the night not even realising that he uses the entire road...What is your worst nighmare experience with someone using just legs to get two wheels moving?And: What is your worst nightmare experience as a cyclist yourself?The guy cutting you off while turning and running over your bike?Someone "accidentally" opening their door when you ride past their car?Or maybe these parks constantly blocking the bike lanes and forcing you to go into the traffic?

Posted by Downunder35m 6 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Chinese laser cutter repair

Anyone in Boston area able to provide or know of a source for service for these chinese made machines. We are a public high school, with an 8 thousand dollar 80 watt co2 paper weight.

Posted by GeorgeF83 6 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


How to harness the energy in snow

I found a thread that asked this question previously on instructables but the author wanted to harness the kinetic energy of falling snow, and many of the criticisms involved the unpredictability of when snow will fall.I am specifically curious if it is possible to create a machine to remove snow that uses the energy of the snow itself. Ideally, it would melt the snow and use the water or steam to power itself.The things Canadian winters do to the mind...

Posted by shareefhadid 6 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Old Tv Speakers and Subwoofers

I have an old sansui tv, but ijust want to use its 2 speakers and 2 subwoofers, i means to convert it to only sound system, please help

Posted by dpokharna 4 days ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


Rebuilding NordicTrack ski machine drive rollers

Many people still buy and use a NordicTrack Ski Machine, although these machines are not as popular as they once were. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers. NordicTrack makes the one-way clutch sound very mysterious. In reality it is a one-way needle bearing and is available from Amazon or locally from a good bearing shop. The internal diameter of the one-way needle bearing used in my machine (Challenger, similar to a 303) is 5/8 inch. The outer diameter is 7/8 inch. The width of the one-way needle bearing from end to end is 5/8 inch. I originally had hopes of being able to install new one-way needle bearings, myself; but, they together with the bronze sleeve bearings on either side of the one-way needle bearing inside each drive roller are pressed into place. Pressing bearings is not a job for the average home tinkerer but requires a bearing press capable of exerting tons of pressure in a very precise manner. You can often have a local machine shop press the bearings in your machine's drive rollers. Or, you can send them away to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33 with a one week turnaround. The core of the rollers really does not wear out, but new rollers are available on the Internet from $65 to $95, depending on the vendor. From what I can find, some models used an alternate size. Check to be certain you order the correct rollers, if you choose to replace. One of my drive rollers suddenly began to hiccup. It seemed that the clutch did not always release immediately when I pulled my foot forward. Then I noticed a little mush in the response when I began to bring my foot back on the push stroke. Before you rebuild or replace your rollers, try this: Remove one side of your Ski Machine. See the second photo and check the exploded diagram in your manual. Four nuts and two screws, all plainly visible, need to be removed. Slide the washers and the roller off of the top side. The shaft and flywheel can be wiggled out of the other side without removing anything from that side. Remove the washers and the roller from that side, too. Flush the one-way needle bearing by squirting some penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, into the bearing. Work it both ways with your smallest finger. Push a facial tissue into the shaft hole in the roller and sop away the penetrating oil and any metallic dust it lifts. Do this several times. Let the rollers air dry. A little lubrication is good. People who comment on lubrication for one-way needle bearings use Tri-Flo (I am not familiar with it.) or they use a little ATF transmission fluid. You want enough to lubricate, but not so much that the bearings slip. (But, see the comments below where the oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings are supposed to supply enough lubrication for the needle bearings.) Put the rollers back in place on the shaft. Check to be certain they grab on the rearward stroke and release on the forward stroke. Reassemble the machine. Do not forget the washers between the roller and the side board. My machine works again as it should. The day will likely come when this simple fix does not help, and I will need to rebuild or replace the rollers then. But, for now, my rollers have a new lease on life. What follows is for your information. The first photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two are bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for the axle of each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics. This link is for an Instructable about a number of modifications I made to our NordicTrack ski machine, including how it can be stored vertically in a closet. If you do not have a digital monitor for your skier, or need to replace one, here is an Instructable on how to make your own from a digital bicycle speedometer.  Check NordicParts for any parts you need, also Nordic Fitness Ski Machines. Danny at Nordic Fitness Ski Machines has some very nice new rollers for sale.

Posted by Phil B 7 years ago  |  last reply 1 day ago


ionocraft

For those that know (or those that frequent Google's everchanging homepage) today is Tesla's birthday. Just typing in his name into the instructables search brings up loads of Tesla coils but not much else. Some research into some of his other (lesser known/theoretical) inventions uncovered an idea for an ionocraft, a silent flying craft with no moving parts powered by high voltage. (not the place to debate the origin of the invention, Major de Seversky is credited as the inventor of the ionocraft, I am just regurgitating a thought I had while reading on Tesla)A quick search reveals that not only is it possible to build these simple machines, high school kids build them as science fair projects! Although fascinating, this project is outside the realm of my ability for now (read: until my brain grows). Anyone with an inkling?Seeing how there's no end to dangerous instructables, what's one more? (I'll even go the next step and provide you with some plans)

Posted by mikeasaurus 9 years ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Electric bike motor help!

Helli guys.. after a long time racing motocross, I would like to experiment into doing an electric dirt bike for myself.. My plan is to find an 85 or 125cc frame with no engine, and build from that.. the biggest question is, what motor could I use that is no less than 15kw, and on the affordable side? I was looking at the Turnigy Rotomax 150cc eqiv. And it has a max power output at 9000 something watts, would that be any good for a motocross bike? Would it burn out quickly since its pretty small? Notes: i am strictly looking for powerful bikes, a 2kw bike is not for me since I am used to overpowered 250cc two stroke hell-born suicide machines, thanks..

Posted by dsirotic 6 days ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Hp or Gateway Laptop?

I want a laptop but there are about 2 that are neck-and-neck in my decision.There's this HP which i really like its design and appearance and also the hardware inside it.http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9720310#And Then there's this Gateway which has a tiny bit of more parts like a different graphics card, larger hard drive, built in webcam, and lightscribe (not really concerned about these parts).http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8771297&type;=product&id;=1203815723402And I'm pretty sure i want the HP (more trusted brand in my opinion), but i just want a second opinion.

Posted by Caveman477 10 years ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Getting help for an instructable

How do I get help if I am trying to build what the instructable is explaining and the creator of it is not answering?https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-Project-Benc...Could someone else answer my questions?

Posted by fletch2770 13 days ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


How different is the tenor sax and the bari sax from an Alto saxaphone?

So, school starts soon obviously, and I am taking band. I currently am playing alto sax, and I am wondering if I should try to play tenor, bari and alto sax. However, I want to know what some main differences are, so if you play bari or tenor sax, I would appreciate any information. Thank you.

Posted by Rock Soldier 9 years ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Arduino

Looking for someone to write an arduino sketch for a stepper motor driven XY table Only looking for a basic, simple code Willing to pay but willing to accept volunteers also :)  Thanks!

Posted by PhillipF9 2 years ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Share your Instagram account!

I've been instagramming for a long time, mostly focusing on my embroidery work! But yesterday I decided to start a new account for my instructables and more personal stuff, like plants and pets and selfies and whatnot. I'd love to see what y'all are sharing on instagram!! Please share your username or a link to your profile in the comments below so I can stalk you all friendly-like. :DHere are my instagram profiles: making jiggy hand embroidery jessy ratfink P.S. Need some help getting followers and likes on Instagram? Check out my instructable over how to promote yourself (or your business!) on Instagram!

Posted by jessyratfink 11 months ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


What kinds of contests do YOU want to see on Instructables?

Hi everyone! As we're planning contests for the next year, we wanted to get suggestions and feedback on the types of contests we're running. :DIs there a contest we ran years ago you'd like to see again? Any contests you're sick of? A weekly challenge you'd like us to expand on? Do you want the contests to be more specific or more open ended?We're trying to shake things up in contest-land - so any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm especially interested in what types of tech contests you guys would like to see, as well as ideas for food contests. P.S. For anyone wondering about weekly challenges - we're still trying to figure out a way to do it that makes it easy for you guys to enter and easy for the editors here to run. But I promise we are discussing it! :)Have prize suggestions? Check this topic. Want to get a preview of some of our upcoming contests?

Posted by randofo 5 years ago  |  last reply 3 days ago


Cleaning the oil for a vacuum pump

Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 5 days ago


Cancel Membership

How do I cancel my 'instructables' membership? as well as block emails. I tried to change my email alerts but there was an 'error' on the page???

Posted by 1crazymama 9 years ago  |  last reply 6 days ago


Trying to make a turret with stepper motors, limit switches, and a joystick. I would like some help if possible

Making a turret that runs on four stepper motors to turn it 360 degrees. than one stepper to tilt the gun up and down, which has 2 limit switches and has a door lock actuator to fire the gun. all of this ruins on a 4 position joys-tic with a button to fire. trying to have this run on an Arduino Uno if possible. would need help coding and figuring out the wiring

Posted by Sweetcorn_18 6 days ago


What is the most affordable laser cutter for a beginner?

I really would love to try out laser cutting. ..But have no idea what knowledge it requires. I want to be able to design and cut custom wooden puzzle, laser cut fabric and also to cut felt and foam. I would like to start up a small home business. Keeping in mind that I have no clue what knowledge it requires and also know that I have 4 kids and will have to have this machine in my home. I do own a silhouette cameo but unfortunately it does not cut felt or wood. It’s a fun machine for cardstock and all…but nothing heavy duty. So is it safe to have a laser cutter at home with kids?? I mean will the light or whatever that comes off the machine be harmful for my children? Also how much is the cheapest desktop version? Will it be able to cut large fabric? Can it cut 0.5” or 0.75” hard wood?? Would that be pushing my luck?? Please let me know…so I can start saving up for it. I really really love crafting….but availability of items and affordability is a big issue. Thanks!

Posted by shazni 2 years ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Ducted vacuum cleaner anyone?

My sister approached me today with the news that her vacuum cleaner went up in smoke.While cleaning out the old rental and with the aim to clean the new home during the next few days.This made me thinking about the the ducted vacuum system that were quite popular around here.Most modern house won't get something like that and for the older ones it means once they fail they stay dead.After all the tenant can buy a vacuum cleaner to clean the carpets...Anyways...I had a look around here and in other places to check on home made solutions of the more modern type.As my sister is allowed some DIY to improve the quite old house I was wondering about installing a ducted vacuum system.Of course there is not much out there, commercially, that would be up to our modern times.Far too noisy, lack of sucktion and despite all totally outdated filter systems that won't keep the turbine or motor clean.Some people however came up with quite clever ideas.For example building your own cyclonic shop vac.Another one I quite liked was was a home made housing for standard drum type shop vac.Apart from the air noise the thing was almost silent.No screaming motor, no outcoming air acting as a funnel for the noise create.The air going in and through the hose was louder then the actual vacuum cleaner LOLI would like to create something similar by salvaging a proper shop vac as a bas for the sucking part.But as it is an old house I would really like a wooden solution to entire housing and casing problem.Not just a screaming thing mounted to the outside of the house....Far less noisy than the donor, cyclonic (proper) seperator and easy to empty.Like place a bag under it and open the bottom easy.Something originally intended for inside use might be weatherproved or placed in a properly covered area if required.Any ideas for the wooden part apart from starting from scratch with 3D models?Anyone here done something similar and willing to provide some feedback on how well it all performs?

Posted by Downunder35m 9 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Wanting to design a cree led powered dock rechargeable torch running on 18650 cells

Hi all, I had an idea the other day that it would be very useful to have a powerful torch in my van that is kept charging in a dock all the time (as required at least) when the engine is running.I know I can get similar torches that charge via a USB cable, and that I could plug the cable into a cigarette lighter socket etc, but what I would like to do is as follows:Power from a 12v (ignition switched) source in vehicle, to a charging dock.Torch must be powered by 18650 lithium-ion cells (2 ideally).Torch would run a cree (or cree style) powerful LED chip/diode (maybe up to 10w arbitrary power).Torch does not need to have a wire plugged into it, but can be simply placed into the dock after use in order to resume charging. The connector for charging is not important but likely a jackplug type arrangement, or else spring terminals.Housing will be 3D printed, and using a lens from an existing torch (probably).So mostly I'm happy about making and designing this, except that I'm not certain about what setup (either the circuit design if bespoke or what off the shelf module etc) I should use for taking 12v to charge 2x 18650 cells in situ.I have got small USB charging modules already, and I have things like voltage boosters/reducers, and tons of electronic components, but the USB charge module is no use for using with a 12v supply etc, so I'm not sure how to best address this part of the project.If anyone has suggestions on good ways to accomplish this I'd be really grateful, thanks!

Posted by Mr Joshua 8 days ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


Wanted: Looking for EMPTY Nitrous Oxide Canisters

Looking for EMPTY, only empty, Nitrous Oxide canisters.. the small kind, for like airguns or whipped cream.

Posted by laminterious 10 years ago  |  last reply 7 days ago


'Car FM transmitter to spy bug'

Hello, i am looking for some tips on how to transform an FM mp3 transmitter to a spy bug.. i have that transmitter you plug into the lighter in your car, put an aux cable or an usb in it, and it then trasmits to a set frequency so you can tune in with your radio.. i was wondering would it be possible to just get rid of the jack, and solder a microphone instead? If not, how would I go around that?

Posted by dsirotic 8 days ago  |  last reply 8 days ago


Unusual uses for coffee machine cleaner or delimer/descaler

Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!

Posted by Downunder35m 10 days ago  |  last reply 8 days ago


How To Unscrew Three-Pronged Screws Without a Three-Pronged Screwdriver?

I have a Gamecube controller I want to take apart, but it has triangle screws. They're like Phillips (four-pronged) but only have 3 prongs instead. I don't have a screwdriver for this, so I need a way to unscrew them.EXAMPLEUPDATE: Not trying to be impolite, but I am NOT looking for a place to buy this kind of screwdriver. I am looking for a way to unscrew them WITHOUT the specific screw driver.

Posted by Aeshir 11 years ago  |  last reply 8 days ago


How do I unsubscribe to instructable emails? I have updated settings but I do not want any emails and they keep coming.

Help me to unsubscribe from the emails I get from Instructables.  There is no unsubscribe button on the emails and I updated my profile deleting all email updates but I'm still getting emails... Help. 

Posted by ClassicStyle 5 years ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Extemely simple automatic emergency light.

I'd like some help to settle an argument regarding my extemely simple automatic emergency light.According to my friend, who installs emergency lighting, this circuit is too simple and has too many components missing but I say he's wrong, if one part fails it can easily be replaced. I'm not and electronics expert either.I'll explain the circuit...5v comes from a 5v 2A phone charger. Battery is a 32Ah 12v SLA. 12v charger is a smart charger with built-in status monitor.SPDT 5v relay rated to switch 12v @ 17amp maxThe light is a 12v 5 metre LED Strip with built in current-limiters and draws arount 2A.Basically, 5v powers the relay which means the battery is connected to the smart charger that keeps it topped up while there is mains power (240v here in UK). If there is a power cut the relay turns off and battery is switches over to the LED light Strip. Its that simple.It works as designed, no parts have failed and I haven't found any signs of over-heating. My friend believes it should all be one circuit and not seperate parts and is a fire risk as it is.He just won't let it go, so does he have a point or is he just being a/an _________ (fill in the blank, lol)? I've included a schematic of the circuit. Not sure if I've drawn the relay properly though.

Posted by cyberraxx 6 weeks ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Raspberry Pi: Launch Python Script on Startup

Hello sir, Running Python script at boot works fine with crontab, only thing is that I am stuck to it. How to come out of it ?How to stop it. Cntr+C does not work

Posted by dgkanade72 9 days ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Prize suggestions and feedback needed! What would YOU like to win?

Hi everyone! Here at HQ we're always planning contests, but sometimes we run out of prize ideas. :D I would love to hear any and all suggestions for products you guys would like to win! I'd also love to hear feedback about prizes we've offered this year - what did you like? What didn't you like? Do you prefer getting a shiny new electronic toy or a prize pack more suited to the theme of the contest? Have a suggestion for a contest theme? Check out this topic!

Posted by randofo 5 years ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Display issue for edited IBLE

I added a step in the middle of a published IBLE, and the step shows fine in the editing screen. When I go to the IBLE, the pictures are in the right order, but the text is missing from the new step and all of the text for the steps are now out of sync from that point forward. Is there a way to correct this?

Posted by Lorddrake 10 days ago  |  last reply 9 days ago


Ever heard of Ceramicrete, MgO cement, Magnesium cement

Has anyone ever worked with MgO cement?  Where can buy it in US? MgO replaces the Ca found in portland cement. MgO cement makes a concrete that will incorporate cellulose and other organics into the crystalline structure. absorbs CO2 instead of generating it, is an order of magnitude stronger than portland, does not require wetting, and cures in minutes. So basically, you can take some burlap or old blanket and paint this stuff on, then fill the void with straw and cement and make super strong, light and thin structures. I have looked for it locally but it does not seem to be available to consumers in the US, probably because of the lack of sheep crap which is the typical source of Mg. It is amazing stuff. This is pretty much the only article I could find about the stuff: http://greenhomebuilding.com/articles/ceramicrete.htm

Posted by bsims1 5 years ago  |  last reply 10 days ago


Active Noise Cancellation for cars not equipped

I am playing with an idea. Higher end cars come with active noise cancellation systems to make the drive quieter and more enjoyable. However compact and subcompact class cars do not. With the noise canceling technology is available on every shelf for headphones, I am wondering if this could be hacked and repurposed to reduce road noise in a car. The system (Im presuming) would require one microphone, one noise canceling circuit board, and one speaker per wheel well. So it would require two pair of noise canceling headphones to accomplish. The idea is to improve the cabin noise quality in an off the shelf kind of way. Currently there are no aftermarket systems within the normal financial reach of most people. Only a hand full of aftermarket systems out there are available and priced @ 4K USD or more. If this works, it could be marketed at around 100 USD per unit. And provide a much nicer driving experience to the compact and subcompact cars.  By placing the microphones under the carpet and on the wheel wells metal surface the system should ignore the stereo, and correct road noise transmitted from the wheels to reduce cabin noise. Stereo interference is a common problem with cabin mounted microphones on OEM systems. So, your mission if you choose to accept it, is to devise a way to reduce road noise in a compact or subcompact car using off the shelf noise cancellation circuitry available to the average person. If your successful this should be a very easy way to upgrade most cars not equipped with such a system. Having a noise canceling system in a car reduces noise fatigue, and improves the driving experience for all of us.

Posted by ydeardorff 5 years ago  |  last reply 10 days ago


Contest banner missing in some accepted entries

I have two different contest entries that have been accepted and they show up on their respective contest pages, but the voting banner is not displaying inside the instructables.https://www.instructables.com/id/Mushroom-Powder-L...https://www.instructables.com/id/Ender-3-Pro-Initi...This appears to be a sporadic issue since two other contest entries that were submitted around the same time in different contests have the voting banner displaying properly.https://www.instructables.com/id/Chocolate-Eclair-...https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Tripod-Q...

Posted by Lorddrake 14 days ago  |  last reply 10 days ago


CANT PUBLISH

I can not publish my instructable! it sais it is published but it does not come up if you search it and i can not add it toi any groups! please help!!!

Posted by uniFREAK134 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 days ago


Instructable edits do not appear in published version

I have made and saved edits in the following instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Jigsaw-Puzzle-Light-Acrylic-Laser-Cut/However whenever I vist the publish instructable they are not shown (I have done edits in other intructables and these have shown up, so I am not sure what is different this time).This is what is published: https://prnt.sc/mi1o90 but this is what is in the edit and preview screens: https://prnt.sc/mi1o4s. You will notice that the 3rd and 4th bullets in the preview screen are missing from the published. I also have changes in the last step that are not reflecting.I have cleared my cache, tried different browsers, networks and ISPs on different devices.I have a few quesitons:Can anyone see the changes that I claim not to be able to see?If this is an issue, will unpublishing and republishing fix it?If I unpublish will I loose my "featured" status as well as the viewing stats?Your help is appreciated.

Posted by abasel 14 days ago  |  last reply 11 days ago


Removing hair dryer heating element

Request for help:  Does anyone know how to remove the heating element from a hair dryer to have it only blow cold/cool air?  I've opened it up and there are a lot more wires than I expected.  I have just enough electrical knowledge to be a little bit above dangerous, so I thought it would be best to ask for help.  Thanks!

Posted by WaffleM 6 years ago  |  last reply 11 days ago


List of Upcoming Contests (updated 1/8/19)

Hello everyone! Below is a partial list of the 2019 contest calendar. Keep in mind that this list is subject to change and contests will continue to be added throughout the year. The contests below are already in planning, and I've left off ones that we're still trying to decide on. The months indicate when the contests will be launching. All contests will launch near the beginning of each month. Keep in mind that the list below is not set in stone. All contests and dates are subject to change!FebruarySweet Treats ChallengeThis is a quick challenge for all recipes sugary and sweet.Organization ContestShow us your tips, tricks, and tools for keeping your workspace, home or calendar organized!Build a Tool ContestUse your tools to build more tools!Paper ContestBack again by popular demand! All paper, all the time! There is a judges' prize for paper machines.Remix ContestThis contest is your chance to take an existing Instructable and use it as inspiration for something new.MarchWeaving ChallengeOh, what tangled webs we weave...Tape ChallengeAnything that uses tape is eligible to enter.Trash to Treasure ContestAnother contest back by popular demand! Take your old junk and turn it into a keepsake. Pie ChallengeWho doesn't like fresh-baked pie?Pocket-Sized ContestThis project is open to any contest that can fit into a pocket. The general rule is that if you need to describe the pocket your project can fit into, it is too big.AprilJewelry ChallengeDesign and make your own custom jewelry for you chance to win.Fat ChallengeThis is your chance to cook recipes with fats. You get no extra points for any weight you gain.Leather ChallengeIf you couldn't guess, the Leather Challenge is open to all things leather-working.Arduino ContestMake something with an Arduino and really wow us to win some awesome prizes.Woodworking ContestThe Woodworking Contest is once again back by popular demand!Gardening ContestApril showers bring May flowers. Get out in the dirt and get planting.MayColors of the Rainbow ContestWe had so much fun with this contest last year, we decided to run it again. There will be special judges' prizes for each color of the spectrum.Fandom ContestShow us how you are a super fan of a video game, TV show, movie, book, music group, or (really) anything else!IoT ChallengeThe IoT (Internet of Things) contest is open to all electronics projects that network with other devices and make new friends. Party ChallengeYou gotta fight for your right to.... Paaaar-ty... Challenge!CNC ChallengeHere is a quick challenge to show us what you can do with your CNC machine. This includes mills, lathes, 3D printers, laser cutters, vinyl cutters and any other computer controlled manufacturing machine. *All contests and dates are subject to change. Please leave suggestions for prizes here. You can also leave suggestions about contests here. Have a contest question? Check the Contest FAQ!

Posted by randofo 5 years ago  |  last reply 12 days ago


How to subscribe for newsletter

Hi, I want to know how to subscribe to get newsletter? Thanks and Thanks for who are going to help 

Posted by hassanwael55 3 years ago  |  last reply 12 days ago


How to get an old and filthy toilet back to glory

I moved into a new rental and it was a bit neglected to say it nice.My longest nouisance however was the old toilet.Calcium and urine stains turned the bottom, where the water sits, into a black, crusty mass.Toilet cleaners of all sorts provide a nice smaell, but even bleach or things like jiffy did not do a thing.Hours were wasted trying to scrape, brush or just swear the filth off but no luck.All I managed was to turn the black into a slightly grey crust, still ugly.One day I had the honor to clean my water kettle and to remove the calcium deposits in it.Of course I was lazy and just some delimer, citric acid, as instructed.Let it sit a few hours, wipe it out, nice.Hmmmm.....Hold on a second, what would happen if I use that stuff in the toilet?!?So I flushed some hot water through to warm up the bowl, then about 1 liter of boiling hot water with two packs of coffee machine cleaner dissolved in it.Let it sit over night only to be very disappointed the next morning.It looked like nothing changed.Unlike pots and kettles my toilet appeared to still have al crusts stuck in it.When I flushed however most of it just flushed away!A little brushing and the rest was gone too - a clean and white toilet again!No more calcium and other hard deposits :)

Posted by Downunder35m 14 days ago  |  last reply 12 days ago


Call for contest judges

Hi everyone! You might have noticed we're running tons of contests these days. We need judges more than ever to make sure our contests keep running smoothly and fairly! The judging process is fairly simple and normally involves looking at contest finalists and rating them on a scale from 1-9. Judging is typically open Friday afternoon through Monday night, though some of the larger contests have judging that runs for a week. Time spent judging is around 30 minutes to two hours - it all depends on how thorough you are! If it’s not a good time for you to judge when we contact you, no worries. We always try to assign more judges than we need in case something comes up. You can find out more about judging a contest here. Don't worry!  Judges are selected after finalists are selected, so volunteering to judge will not affect your chances of being a finalist in any contest you enter. To be eligible to judge, you must have posted at least ONE instructable. Let us know which contest categories you're interested to judge in the comments below: Food Living > includes Home and Craft; so please just say Living if you are interested in either or both of these. Workshop Outdoor Tech Play NOTES: If you are interested in Halloween we'll pick judges based on categories/entries we get in the contests. Costume > Living   Decor > Play, Outdoor, and/or Workshop  Prop > Living and/or Play   Food > Food   Things will depend on what types of finalists we end up with. For example: If we were to have a lot of Tech finalists in Decor, then we would pick judges from that category as well to judge that contest. If you list categories you want to judge, but also say you would judge any, it gets a little confusing. Please try to either pick categories OR say any contest.  Thanks for helping us keep the site awesome!

Posted by jessyratfink 5 years ago  |  last reply 13 days ago


Help Replace Discontinued Range Hood Vent Fan Switch

The variable speed fan control on my Thermador HT48HQS hood vent does not work and the replacement switch is no longer available.  I'm looking for some help in making a new switch.  The Thermador VTR1000Q motor is mounted on the roof and controlled at the hood with a variable speed control knob. The motor is rated at 115V 60Mz 7.8 Amps. Photos of the switch assembly are attached. From what I understand, the speed control knob is a potentiometer that regulates the speed by proving a range of amps from 2.5 to 8? If I could make a variable speed control that would be great.  But I'd be more than happy to have create an on/off toggle switch or a toggle for low on/off high.  Can anyone help me?

Posted by Cjmacyogiboo 2 years ago  |  last reply 13 days ago


Issues with text content not updating to the web view.

I am having an issue when I update text content it is not being updated to the web view but when you create a PDF all of my changes are present. This has happened on my last two Instructables. I have tried ever browser I have and forced refresh on each with no change. Same result from my iPhone X for seeing the changes in content.Please Help I want to make sure my changes get through, Thanks

Posted by twhite101 13 days ago  |  last reply 13 days ago


Common water insoluble powders to use as heatpipe wick.

I'm wanting to make a heatpipe which works against gravity and so am looking for commonly available materials to use as a wick. Like a sugarcube on a spoon soaking up coffee. Except that since I'll probably be using water as my working fluid, the wick will need to be insoluble in water, as well as heat proof to a couple hundred degrees. A few things I've thought of to try are flour, talcum powder, chalk dust and sand. Thoughts?

Posted by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago  |  last reply 13 days ago