Free Nerf Wallpapers! From Nerfrocketeer of instructables.com NerfWalls presented by Nerfrocketeer (NK). All pictures are free for your use, (as long as you attribute to Nerfrocketeer,instructables.com, and Nerf/Buzzbee). Created, taken, and edited by Nerfrocketeer. I am also giving tips on how to take pictures like these. Feel free to ask for more info. You can use these pictures for your instructables as well!            By using any or all of these pictures, you hereby agree attribute all pictures to Nerfrocketeer, instructables.com, Nerf, and/or Buzzbee. You MAY NOT use these pictures in any inappropriate, disparaging, unlawful, plagiaristic, or spam-related media or other creation. Nerfrocketeer and instructables are NOT affiliated with Nerf, Hasbro, or Buzzbee. Nerfrocketeer, instructables, Nerf, Hasbro, and Buzzbee are NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS, LOSSES, or ACCIDENTS CAUSED BY THE CREATION AND/OR USE OF THESE PICTURES. Use at your own risk. Pictures may be recalled at any time with little to no notice given. 

Hi everyone!I have this stairs in my apartment, I got used to them, but now as we have a baby they are pretty much dangerous for little guy. I need ideas and suggestions on a design for new stairs. Space is really small. Photos are attached. Thank You!

Hello Community! In an ongoing effort to make sure that Instructables is able to focus its product development efforts where they count most for existing an new authors, we are officially retiring our native iOS and Android apps. Note that this does not affect mobile web. I expect continued investment in mobile technologies for years to come, but we will focus on the experience of people using Instructables through their mobile web browsers, rather than through downloaded apps. For those keeping score, this isn't exactly news. We have not released new versions of either app in over two years, and they have become steadily buggier and buggier during that time due primarily to changes in their respective environments. Android 2 and iOS 5 were current when we released them originally, and Android 7 and iOS 10 are very different beasts. Simply keeping up -- even without adding anything new or fixing any bugs -- requires a constant investment of development time from Instructables, and prevents that time from going to projects with greater impact. The original purposes for the apps were: 1) To lower the bar to Instructables authorship by providing direct access to upload photos taken on smart phones 2) To improve the browsing experience by making it faster Since they were released, mobile technologies have progressed to the point that #1 is no longer a concern. Our mobile web editor already has full support for uploading images directly from your phone. #2 is also coming into striking distance soon, as browser manufacturers begin to standardize their implementation of offline content for mobile web sites, sometimes referred to collectively as "progressive web apps". We'll be watching these technologies closely, and we'll be among the first to speed up your browsing experience with offline components when cross-browser solutions become available. We have already developed (and will continue to expand on) Accelerated Mobile Pages, which mean we display nearly instantaneously when you tap an AMP result on mobile from Google. You can identify these pages via a lightning bolt in mobile search results: In short, the reasons that we developed the native apps no longer apply, and we're dropping support for them in favor of putting those energies where they are able to have greater impact for the community: Mobile Web. The apps will soon be removed from sale from their respective download stores. For existing users who have downloaded these apps and are using them currently: feel free to continue doing so, though we would urge you to upload your Instructable Drafts to the website as soon as possible. While we don't expect the editing process to break, no support is available should you experience issues in the future. You can also use the apps to browse Instructables, though I believe there are already some issues that have started adding friction to this experience. Thanks, all, for your continued support of our vibrant community! ~Devs

Okay, so I'm a professor and I have a nice project to publish.  For a first time user of this site, I'm thoroughly frustrated with the lack of detailed feedback when something is wrong.  I would fix it if it would tell me.  Usually I just walk away thinking that the thing is simply not worth the time, but the reputation of this site gives me repose to try to find out why. My instructable was saved and shows up in my drafts.  Great. I hit publish and it goes to a page to request keywords and category.  Great. I put a minimum of 2 keywords and select a category.  Great. I press "yes, publish my instructable" and the page refreshes, clearing everything I've entered. After doing this ten times with no other results or feedback of what the problem is, I find myself writing this topic in hopes somebody knows why.  Whatever the answer is to this dilemma, its kind of ironic that the instructable site is so lacking in basic feedback when there is a problem.. Oh well, I hope you understand my frustration.

We’re excited to announce that Instructables.com just hit 30 million unique monthly users! Thank you so much for being a part of this fantastic, supportive, and inspiring community. You all are awesome. We are a community of makers, and we’re all striving to improve our skills. What makes Instructables special is that we’re also sharing what we learn, and in the process, we are becoming better teachers. The two things feed off of each other: improving skills and then teaching them. If I break down my build and explain it to someone else after I'm done, it gives me a chance to examine the how and why in my process that I might not have otherwise done. Creating an Instructable for a project is a chance to reflect and improve upon my design. All that is to say that I love the Instructables community, and I think it is making a positive difference in the world. We live in interesting times. As Instructables author Dominik Textor put it, “things you couldn’t find in a library in the past and had to travel far to learn can be learnt now in moments.” Instructables is a repository for a lot of knowledge, and it is growing every day. I can’t wait to see what you make next!

Hi all,I'm in need of help. Due to my previous jobs and general knowledge a friend has asked me if I could build an automatic pH regulation system that will monitor and maintain two tanks (it sounded easy to me at the time) but I've suddenly found myself out of my depth.Having spent long evenings searching on the web and on here, I've seen a few builds of monitors and a couple of dosing systems but none are just what is wanted as they are only set up for single tanks, or not combined into an auto-doser, or too "over-tech'd" or multi-purpose orientated and I don't have the knowledge to adapt or alter things to my requirements. Plunging straight in at the deep end with no real idea of what I'm doing and can actually be done, I'm thinking I should be able to (theoretically) assemble and program an Arduino controlled system, with the one box doing the job of monitoring and regulating both tanks independently, so two sensors, pumps etc., from what I gather it's by adding different boards to the base unit (I did say I know nothing). I don't need wifi or anything like that, just a simple device with a basic display showing the current values that will sit there and just do the job.I think I have the capability to actually build and program the thing having a background in electrics and a little knowledge of relay control systems - not electronics, I start getting lost just after the transistor/diode level and BASIC is more my programming level (yes, I may be THAT old, but I'm still trying to learn), and so what would really help me is if anyone out there can point me towards a site or pages where I can find the info I need, hopefully that doesn't assume years of prior experience, to either build or adapt something to what I want, or even aim me towards someone who could be able to supply me a design and components list, either for fee or free. Cheers!

Please Help how to do this. arduino display the battery level, battery charging ,beep when lowbat and full charge in lcd from a external 12v supply

Many people still buy and use a NordicTrack Ski Machine, although these machines are not as popular as they once were. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers. NordicTrack makes the one-way clutch sound very mysterious. In reality it is a one-way needle bearing and is available from Amazon or locally from a good bearing shop. The internal diameter of the one-way needle bearing used in my machine (Challenger, similar to a 303) is 5/8 inch. The outer diameter is 7/8 inch. The width of the one-way needle bearing from end to end is 5/8 inch. I originally had hopes of being able to install new one-way needle bearings, myself; but, they together with the bronze sleeve bearings on either side of the one-way needle bearing inside each drive roller are pressed into place. Pressing bearings is not a job for the average home tinkerer but requires a bearing press capable of exerting tons of pressure in a very precise manner. You can often have a local machine shop press the bearings in your machine's drive rollers. Or, you can send them away to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33 with a one week turnaround. The core of the rollers really does not wear out, but new rollers are available on the Internet from $65 to $95, depending on the vendor. From what I can find, some models used an alternate size. Check to be certain you order the correct rollers, if you choose to replace. One of my drive rollers suddenly began to hiccup. It seemed that the clutch did not always release immediately when I pulled my foot forward. Then I noticed a little mush in the response when I began to bring my foot back on the push stroke. Before you rebuild or replace your rollers, try this: Remove one side of your Ski Machine. See the second photo and check the exploded diagram in your manual. Four nuts and two screws, all plainly visible, need to be removed. Slide the washers and the roller off of the top side. The shaft and flywheel can be wiggled out of the other side without removing anything from that side. Remove the washers and the roller from that side, too. Flush the one-way needle bearing by squirting some penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, into the bearing. Work it both ways with your smallest finger. Push a facial tissue into the shaft hole in the roller and sop away the penetrating oil and any metallic dust it lifts. Do this several times. Let the rollers air dry. A little lubrication is good. People who comment on lubrication for one-way needle bearings use Tri-Flo (I am not familiar with it.) or they use a little ATF transmission fluid. You want enough to lubricate, but not so much that the bearings slip. (But, see the comments below where the oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings are supposed to supply enough lubrication for the needle bearings.) Put the rollers back in place on the shaft. Check to be certain they grab on the rearward stroke and release on the forward stroke. Reassemble the machine. Do not forget the washers between the roller and the side board. My machine works again as it should. The day will likely come when this simple fix does not help, and I will need to rebuild or replace the rollers then. But, for now, my rollers have a new lease on life. What follows is for your information. The first photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two are bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for the axle of each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics. This link is for an Instructable about a number of modifications I made to our NordicTrack ski machine, including how it can be stored vertically in a closet. If you do not have a digital monitor for your skier, or need to replace one, here is an Instructable on how to make your own from a digital bicycle speedometer.  Check NordicParts for any parts you need, also Nordic Fitness Ski Machines. Danny at Nordic Fitness Ski Machines has some very nice new rollers for sale.

I have a decorative garden light I am very fond of, but the solar charger/led light  is no longer working.  We tried switching out the batteries with new solar rechargeables but that didn't help.  I'm game for replacing the whole thing, charger, light, sensor and all, but haven't been able to find replacement kits anywhere.  The current unit uses one small solar panel about 3 x 4 inches and two AA batteries with one LED.  Clearly I'm not searching for the right words. TIA

Hello Everyone, I recently found out about Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. I have read that it does not affect the electrodes like salt or baking soda and it does not create any weird gasses like chlorine. The main reason for using stainless steel electrodes is to prevent this corrosion, but since sodium hydroxide does not create this corrosion, can I just use the much cheaper iron or regular steel as the electrode plates? Thanks in advance  

I have acquired a couple of tv zoom lens from canon tv station cameras. Does anyone out there know of a way to turn them into a telescope. Or ad a camera back attachment. It seems like a waste tossing them out. The lenses are fine, btw I'm cheap!

I have 3 "iCamera 1000" camera units laying around. I do not have the rest of the security system they are designed to function with, but there has to be some way to make use of them and have some fun. I have lots of cat 6 cable and RJ45 connectors to custom make a cable if anyone has the expertise to figure out how to make use of these. Before posting here, I searched and searched here and on Google but only found information regarding the "normal" application of these cameras..... I was hoping for something more outside the box which is why I am here. I included a front/back picture. Thanks for any ideas!!

I'll be making a concrete counter top for my outdoor kitchen. I'll shape a "box" in the concrete (just like a concrete sink), and build the propane burners into that. Will I run into any heat issues with the concrete? Should I line it with something to shield it from heat?

Though there's no members at the moment I figured I'd go ahead and start a topic. In this one, just post pics or scans of some of your drawings. Here's three of mine:

Global warming, climate change, jelly fish attacks, changed ocean currents...We all know the highlights from the news but what is the real deal behind all of this?It can't be denied that burning fossil fuels with no regrets has an impact on our globe.CO2 and other gasses or elements have been trapped for thausands of years.We release them all into our atmosphere and while doing so keep adding more harmful stuff.So, of course it is easy to say that if we would have nver used our fossile fuels to this extent then our world would be unharmed and a happy place throughout.Even if we would ignore the impossible task of making it where we are right now without having used any fossile fuels: How much would it be different?If we trust the offical climate data that has been collected then it clearly shows a rise in so called climate changing emissions since our industrial revolution started.Be it data from the ice, core drillings or just sample taken from old canyons - the results are all the same.Since the late 1800's there is a steady rise in emissions, CO2 and all the other things we don't really want in our air.And for good reasons all these green advocates try their best to stop us from doing more harm.Since the 80's we started to actually care more, better engines, catalytic converters, cleaning mechanisms for our industiral waste and chimneys.But did it make any change or difference?About 40 years now some countries try hard to do it right, so this must show up somewhere?!Well it does not.You see countries like the US never really cared about climate or the enviroment if there was a cheaper and easier option.Just check how long it took them to even acknowledge that our climate is changing due to our interference...Then there is China and as we have seen with the olympics they literally have to shut down production so you can see for more than a few km...But the same is true for so many other countries.Like everwhere else the industrial revolutions comes sooner or later and as always the cheapest way is done first and for far too long.And with the delay in reactions and consequences it is now certain that the worst is yet to come.Of course there is also another side to the entire story - nature itself.We destroy it where we can to safisfy our need for being cheap.Ever wondered where all this cheap furniture is coming from?Or all the wood used throughout the world?Rainforests are disappearing, flora and fauna is destroyed.In most cases with a lot of fires as it is still the easiest way to clean up when done.Now add the vulcanic eruptions that increased over the past 20 odd years around the world.And if you dare all the bushfires or natural causes.Combined this causes a higher impact than all our burning of fossile fuels - and it adds to the mix.And this brings us back in time.Taking the records of climete conditions all the way back to before the dinosaurs showed us that we had periods of much higher temperatures than what we might see soon.CO2 level at some periods were so high that the earth literally was a green house.So why did we humans amke it anyway onto this earth if chance were so bad?Species adjust, evolve or go extinct, new ones appear...Well, unless you are a croc or so and really don't care about Darvin and evolution ;)Does that mean we are on the way to become a new species?Sadly no, because we are the cause of all our problems.We now use technology and science to adjust nature and the enviroment to our needs.It gets too hot? Well add an airconditioner, will you!?The ground water is too contaminted to drink? Well, why do you think we invented bottled water?!You need room for new homes? Don't mind the flood planes, just drain them and build, there was no flood in over 30 years...See, even if we would go fully green and honur nature around the world from today on.Even if we try to clean up the mess we already created.The effects of what we did over the last 40 or more years are still in progress and far from over.Like a good stew it keep cooking until it is ready to serve.But strenght comes in numbers!Like a virus we keep multiplying even in areas with very limited ressources.After all, we just import what we need..Natural selection is being eliminated so pharma companies can make a living too.From just over 40 years our "natural" life expectency increased now to well into the 80's.You are not fertile? No problem we have means to fertilise your eggs with the sperm from hubby!Already suffering badly from diabetes, asthma or other chronical illness? No problem, have some kids anyway.And just to top it always make sure to avoid natural foods in favour for processed and artificial ingredients.In nature the weak, the sick, the old, the malformed and incapable are a food source.We took this food source away, keet them around, care for them and make sure really everyone has the same chance in life.In life - but not in nature anymore!Social evolution meant that natural selection was no longer a requirement to ensure a strong "tribe" or hunting party.We compensated the drain on ressources and all pharma companies are still very grateful for this.No this is no weird rant on humanity or the idea of some mad person, it is just the naked reality we like to ignore.A horse breeder will not accept a weak and constanlty sick horse for his breeding stock.A broken leg, like for a cow usually just means the animal is put down.Some dog breeders still prefer to cull a few pups just because the color pattern is not nice enough or the ears are too short.Even if you just breed fish you o through all sorts of troubles to ensure you have the best genes available in your tanks.You think this is already going to far with the ideas, I know :(But we have real world examples highlighting the results of the exact opposite: Inbreeding and ignoring the defects in genes and health.The british royal family destroyed the italian and russin monarchies the same was the spanish and protugise, even impacted on the french.In times when there was no clue about genetic defects or deseases that can be dormant in females but very active in males, the british royalty simply kept providing tainted bloodlines to the other royal familes.No offsprings that are male and of good health meant the end of their monarchies.The british survived by allowing the common folk to join the blue blood lines and now it is common in all the monachrchies left in the world.Remove the carries, provide fresh genes to get a better diversity.Really no offence, but just look at Charles and Camilla ;)Jokes aside: the story of the european monarchies shows what happens if things go too wrong.From hunters a gatherers that either kept healthy or died out we eveloved to having a gene pool that is full of nasty surprises.Again no offence meant in any way or to any person!If we compare our world with a big aquarium than it might have eveloved like this:Once there was a bowl full of plants, guppies and lots of other fish and creatures living on each other.Over time the guppies learnt when the feeding times are and made sure they get most of the food.Slowly the other psecies had not enough room and food anymore, only the hunter had a good linving with the huge supply of guppies.Then the guppies managed to reduce the dangers from all predators around and started to really take off.Soon every guppy had only conerns about having a good life and enough food.The waste got more and more, the sick and ill too.The last hunter able to fight them died off as he too suffered from the wasten the changed enviroment and gnetic defects transfered.Now there is little plants left, guppies everywhere, crap everywhere and even those guppies only living a few months still manages to find a partner to ensure their tainted gene pool spreads into the general population.We have no tank owner getting the balance right again, removing the sick and weak, we humans just keep going strong and if the crap pile gets too high we put grass and houses on top of it....We humans don't like to be compared with fish, a virus or any other lower being for that matter.These hings just don't affect or concern us.And anyone who dares to do so anyway has a long list of nasty words thrown at them.Is it because we humans can't tolerate the truth?Or is because deep inside we all know but refuse to think about it?

Which programming language is good for making websites like https://errorcode0x.com/resolve-steam-error-code-80/ ?? Please suggest me.

0I have a remote controller for a portable heater, and working on a small project to be able to control the fan on/off from an arduino with Bluetooh HM-10 module. I thought a solenoid might work by mounting on top of the remote but it doesnt have enough force, I want to remove/desolder the mechanical button and figure out a way to control it without the switch but kind dont really know what circuit I should use, kind of just learning how to use arduino.Images of remote and button traces below.Any idea how I could wire this up to arduino via some switch/relay circuit? Any circuit design / schematic would be helpful(See pics attached)

Need a partner for Peltier type project to chill liquid. Possible prototype for a Medical Device. Cash Compensation. I am in Toronto. Not a scam.

I'm wanting to battery power a PC but don't know exactly how to assemble it, here are the parts that i plan to get.My PC is going to draw roughly 150w, i would like it be charging and usable at the same time just like laptopbattery:https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-high-capacity-...PSU:https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/182249128437?chn=psCharger: what charger should i get?Don't know

Hi friends. I need someone to help me write Arduino code for my project. I will pay 20 US$ for each code you make...will put the money to your paypal account, or if you like can order something for you from EBAY and ship to your address.. please msg me I send you the flowchart and what the code is sopposed to do. Thanks

Just looking for some good Tech Resource books that go from basics to beyond.... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here at Instructables we run a ton of contests! We also get asked a ton of questions about those contests. Below is a list of the contest questions we get asked most frequently and also some questions that we feel could use a little more explaining. (Let’s be honest - reading the official rules is not fun.)Please ask addition questions in this forum topic - I'm sure there are some we have not covered!Important links:List of upcoming contestsContest suggestionsPrize suggestions General Contest Questions How do you choose which contests to run? We do this in a few different ways.Contests are planned based on past contest themes, what’s trending in search, which categories/channels need a little love, new site features or if there’s a certain type of content we want. Contest ideas also come from staff meetings and through the official contest idea forum topic.I have an idea for a contest! How do I tell you guys?Please post here and let us know! We can’t run all of them, but we love seeing the ideas you guys come up with. How do I win a contest?Post something awesome! Check out this collection of tutorials that will tell you how to write a great instructable. Why do Instructables employees enter the contests?We enter contests to set the bar and give an example of the type of entries we want in the contests. We're not able to win them, though!It's important to note that several employees were authors on the site before they worked here, though, so you might see some wins in our achievements! :) Entering Contests Can I enter if my country is not listed in the official rules?Yes! You can definitely enter.However, you must have a mailing address in an eligible country to win. If you have a friend in the US or another eligible country that can receive your prize, go ahead and enter!You can read more about our progress to add more countries to the eligible shipping locations here. I live in -----, why can't I enter?!Chances are your country has incredibly strict laws regarding gambling, sweepstakes and contests. We try our best to play by the rules, and if we can't meet the minimum requirements to run a contest in your country, we don't run them there!That's the easy answer. The hard answer is that it's very complicated and involves lots of risk and scary legal language. Why isn't my entry showing up in the contest? I entered three minutes ago!Real humans look at each entry! This means it take take a while sometimes. We work standard office hours, 9-5ish PST. We tend to moderate first thing in the morning, Monday-Friday.If you enter at the end of the work day or over the weekend, you may have to wait until the next business day to be accepted. Why can I only enter one contest with one Instructable?It’s all the spirit of fairness. In the past, we've had popular instructables sweep multiple contests with huge wins. This new rule will allow more authors to win! Why was I rejected from the contest?The number one reason for this is not fitting the contest theme - we try our best to explain the sorts of entries we’re looking for on the main page of each contest, so double check your eligibility there.We also sometimes make mistakes or encounter bugs during the approval/denial process. (Checking the wrong box, clicking the wrong button, breaking the back end of the site) It’s rare, but it happens! We’re human and can’t help it, but we do our best to right those mistakes as soon as we know they happened! Why can’t I enter an instructable I published before the start date into the contest?We want to see NEW and exciting content built just for the contest. If we allowed old instructables in, we’d just see the same things over and over again. Plus, the number entries in the contests would make it very hard to choose finalists and winners.Keep in mind that simply republishing an old project will not make it eligible - we check for that. ;) Can I edit my Instructable after it's entered in a contest?Short answer: YES!Long answer: You can make any modifications you want to an Instructable that's already entered! We get so many entries that there's absolutely no way we'd be able to police it even if we wanted to - but it's never something we want to discourage.Improvement is always a good thing as far as I'm concerned. :)However, we must caution you: it's best to get those changes done before voting closes. The voting period matters the most because that's the time that we start looking into picking finalists.Another slightly related caveat: don't publish a mostly empty instructable and try to fill it after the contest ends. We're starting to see this happen more often, always with a promise that updates are coming. You can never tell when we'll be reviewing it as a possible finalist, so chances are you'll get overlooked going about it that way. We are currently looking at 50-300 entries per contest, so anything incomplete doesn't stand a chance these days! Finalist & Winner Selection When are the finalists selected?Finalists are selected starting the Tuesday after the contest closes. The finalist selection process normally ends Thursday of the same week, depending on how tricky the contest is and how many people give input. How are finalists selected?Finalist selection is a mixture of votes and staff choices. We look for all kinds of things when it comes to picking finalists, including: Good photos! Pretty photos put you five steps ahead of all the other entries already, honestly. We're going to want to click through and look at it as soon as we see it if it's pretty! Good explanation of both WHAT the project is and HOW you made it. Sometimes it can be really hard to figure out what we're looking at. (Personally, if I have to spend several minutes staring at photos and reading to understand it, I'm not very excited about it anymore.) Try to convey the project through both photos and video if it's needed. For example - if it's a rocket, upload a video of it in action! A good story! I read more projects than you could ever imagine every month. I love it when an author takes time to explain why they made the project, or documents the errors they made along the way. That makes an instructable so much more enjoyable to read. :) Citing your sources/inspirations - look, we realize there's hardly an original idea on the internets anymore, so we can't fault you for that. But it's only fair to give credit where credit is due. We like that. Plus, it sometimes makes for an awesome story. Creativity! Look, I cannot even begin to tell you how many paracord bracelets, Altoid tin survival kits and Iron Man arc reactors I have looked at. My eyes glaze at the thought. Don't just go for the common and easy, take that project and put a new spin on it!!Relation to prize. In some contests, we offer a Judges Prize. Entries that qualify for this prize are also taken into consideration. We always suggest authors read their own work with an objective eye. Does it make sense if you aren’t familiar with the subject already? Did you provide enough description? Are the photos understandable? How many finalists are there?To find this out easily, go to the contest page and look at the total number of prizes to be awarded. The number of finalists for a given contest will match the number of total prizes. Why wasn't my project chosen as a winner/finalist?This can happen for all kinds of reasons, honestly. See the "How are finalists selected?" question above for a more in depth explanation of what we're looking for.The most important thing to stress is that we are going through TONS of entries for every contest, so it's important to set yourself apart. Choose a clear and concise title, tell us a story, share great photos, explain the project well. If there are projects similar to yours in the contest already, make sure your project exceeds theirs in awesomeness. Also remember that competition is fierce in the contests - there are always a LOT of amazing entries. When it comes down to selecting winners sometimes it's the little things because when you're comparing awesome to awesome the little things are all you can look at. So be detailed orientated when writing your instructable. Judging Who judges the contests?This is typically a mix of Instructables staff and authors on the site (your peers!). Each contest is normally assigned 10-50 judges.Lately we’ve had an average of 15-20 judges complete the process. I always try to add as many judges as possible, because more judges means the judging is more fair and helps to reduce bias. How can I help judge a contest?If you’re interested in helping us judge, check out this forum topic! To judge, you must have published at least one Instructable.We send out PMs to judges on the Friday after a contest closes. How do I judge a contest/access the judging ballot?We’ve written up an Instructable over it! You can find it here: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Judge-a-C...Once you're added to the list of judges, you’ll be able to access the ballot. Prizes How do you pick prizes? Can I suggest prizes?We've got a pretty small budget prize here, so it's a mix of trying to be frugal but still give you guys something fancy. We try to order most of our prizes from Amazon.com because they have reliable shipping and tons of options.If you'd like to suggest an awesome prize, do it here! I don't like these prizes, can I trade?Short answer: nope!Long answer: we choose prizes well ahead of time and order prizes at the start of the contest (for 95% of what we run) and we don’t make substitutions. We typically have anywhere from 100-250 winners a month (and increasing all the time!), so it’s not feasible to give choices and sub things out. Only three of us on staff work with ordering the prizes and shipping them out, so that would be lots of work!However, we have allowed winners to switch prizes with another winner on occasion (both parties must agree and let us know before we ship them!) and we’re fine with you selling your prize somewhere else. How do I get my prize if I win?When contest winners are announced, we’ll send you a message with a form to fill out. Make sure to fill this out completely and remember that we require a phone number and that we can’t ship to P.O. boxes.Winners are responsible for any trade tax or tariffs incurred for shipping to your location. We cannot reduce the value of the prize so you pay less tax (nice try, though, you sneaky hobbit!!). When will my prize ship?We try to ship prizes as soon as possible! 75% of our contests have prizes that are easily shipped right away and you should receive notification of shipment within a week or so.Sometimes we do have to order items AFTER the contest ends or wait for a sponsor to ship the items. If we think there will be a delay, we’ll let the winners know. We’ve been trying very hard to make sure we’re reaching out and updating winners about prize statuses.Also: VERY IMPORTANT - the sooner all winners give us their contact info, the sooner we can make big orders of custom sizes. Sometimes there’s a huge delay just because we’ve got one straggler. Be a good winner and let us give you prizes, dangit!!

When you add a link within an "Ible, there's an option to have it open in a new tab. I like to add links to some of the tools and materials I use, and always check the box for that as I find it a bit irritating when the link takes you away from the page you're on.I recently was looking at one of my published 'Ibles and clicked on a link, but it doesn't open in a new tab. I went into edit mode, checked the open in new tab box, and went back to the 'Ible... same thing.I logged out and tried it again to the same result. Tried it in a different web browser just to see too.If I go into edit mode and check the box, save, go out of edit mode, and back into edit mode, the box is unchecked.Has anyone else had this issue? It doesn't affect functionality very much but is a bit of an annoyance

Hello all, thought id share my progress of my 97' VW Golf mk3 VR6 2.8 to create some discussion and VAG banter. I brought her completly standard and wanted to build a real sleeper for road use and track use that is fast, practical for everyday use and safe for the family. When I got her back in 2009 she was a standard vr6 nothing really special just a well looked after example Firstly I gave her a good clean inside and out along with a service.......and by clean i mean really cleaning, shampoo the carpet, treat the leather, clean out the heater units, remove and shampoo the roof lining, polish and resin the paint, de greese and steam clean the engine bay to name some of the bits ive done. The result was a very clean base "template" Once all was clean and I could see areas for imporvement I began the work, replacing all the bushes, front and rear lower arms, brake lines, discs, calipers, exhaust were the easy steps When it came to the engine itself I did not want to mess about with it too much just improve the BHP and general running of the car as 174bhp from a 2.8 VR6 is shocking. So removed the engine and re conditioned the gearbox and clutch. While this was out I thought it best to also do the pull chain not a big job but much easier with everything out, once back in I still was not finished.... After giving the engine a full service with new plugs, leads, coil pack, oil change, rocker cover, inlet manifold, seals, upgraded air filter I decided to get the car chipped to see what BHP could be pulled out of her. Happy to say with all that work she was running on the first dyno 192bhp a massive improvement from standard 174bhp and all that from just replacing and upgrading some standard old parts with more expensive performance parts. Once the Chip was installed and the guys at the tuning store had done their works she was happily chucking out 216.4BHP With that I was more than happy and the work put in over the 6month period really showed. I then decided to have all but bumpers colour coded and did a few minor tweeks to the exterious to make her a clean standard example... I will add a full list of specs and work done soon, enjoy the pics feedback welcome

Hi All,Let's begin with this. I've never built much of anything in my life. I just had this idea I wanted to run by you in order to see how hard it would be to make.Each night before bed I turn on my fan right next to my head. I love the sound and the feel on the breeze. I want to know how hard it would be to place a water mister in front of the fan in order to feel like I'm out in a light rain.I found an inexpensive mister on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/Instapark-Operated-Gardenin...and I thought of placing an auto rotating (every 5 to 10 seconds) servo on the button. Let's make believe I'm a plant and I'm trying to water myself.How hard would this to be?Steve

Found an old topic that someone reactivated with a reply, so I though I do a new one to make it easier. "Moonshine" can be as tasty as any good spirit from the shops. I have done a few liters back in my days... There are a few things to consider right from the start though. What type of sugar is used, e.g. fruits, corn, wheat, potatoes or plain sugar and water. Equally important is the yeast, some prefer natural fermantation, others use baker's yeast, most prefer dedicated yeasts for wine. Even the water used plays a role in the final taste!Hygine is another thing that many people overlook or neglect. Anything that can grow in a warm and sweet enviroment will grow rapidly! That means if your yeast is not good or fast enough, other cultures can take over and sometimes totally change the outcome and quality. In some cases, like with fruits to the better but usually to the worse. Imagine you want to bake a nice cake with vanilla in it. But since your vanilla stick is already quite old and you stored it together with your garden herbs in one jar.... You get the idea of taste I hope ;) Just go from start to finnish like you would prepare chicken meat together with fish - keep it clean, keep it healthy.The still.... Now, if you trust some old blokes doing moonshine since they were kids then it all sounds so easy. But for the hobby brewer there are now tons of options available. Basic pot stills you can put on your stove, electric ones that are basically just an electric boiler with a cooling tube, tower models with several levels of control or the good old "reflux" still in copper. Why is it important to know your way around stills? Again, if you ask a cook then he will tell you why he uses a certain pot for certain dishes or why he won't work with certain materials. Sometimes it is for taste or ease of handling, often just preference. Lets check the main differences in material. We have the modern stainless steel and the classic copper. Stainless steel is easy to clean, won't affect the taste and won't cause any chemical reactions that would alter the taste of your product. That is true only if you trust the manufacturers ;) To compensate for the problems I will explain in a bit they use all sorts of gadgets. I call them brewing helpers and explain them in a bit. Copper on the other hand is now quite expensive and also deemed to be a pain to clean and sanitise. To be honest: how hard it is to clean a still only depends on the design. If you can seperate it into nice straight pieces with good access you can clean anything. But copper was and still is the prefered option for drinking vessels and cookware in a lot of cultures - and it is coming back into our kitchens now as well. Why is that then? Copper has natural sanitising abilities but also reacts with a lot of chemicals. And since copper is considered to be a "good" metal, these reactions usually happen only directly on the copper. Meaning all reaction products stay on the copper as well. Work with fruits or potatoes and a copper still can look dark black and really ugly when done. Do the same in a steel still and then compare the taste ;) Copper produces a far better taste! Especially sufur based compounds react strongly with the copper but also anything causing bad smells or tastes is reduced big time. To flux, reflux not not to flux at all!? A basic still heats the mesh to a set temperature, a cooling coil or similar lets the steam condensate and the alcohol (and everything else) drips out. More complex models have a more tower like appearance and with that allow for a better temperature control. Here the steam will cool down in the tower and at the right height you have the outlet. Brings a much more refined product. The best is still the reflux still however. Here the steam is allowed to travel further and cool down completely. Only a fraction is allowed to come out while the rest runs back down into the heated pot. From first to last model the quality, taste and purity improve. Lets take a closer look on what actually happens inside a still:Once the mix is hot enough that something can turn into a vapor or gas form it will try to escape. That is why we usually discard the first "head" coming out - it contains the most methanol for starters but also the worst of tastes. Again more on heads and tails later ;)In a simple still all steam produced is now turned back into a liquid.One reason why the alcohol concentrations is quite low, around 40%.But also the reason for the low quality taste that can happen.Even with a generous amount of head removed literally everything that is in the opt ends up in the spirit.A good temperature control is a must have and the less deviation the better.And as with all pots running low, once you are low enough all impurities left in your mesh will be concentrated.If the bottom now gets too hot they release unwanted tastes...We skip the tower models and go right to the reflux as the later is just better and includes all there is to say about the tower models anyway.At least on a hobby level a reflux still already starts with a quite tall boiling vessel.It just allows a better and more evenly heating of the mesh inside.While the bottom part is hotter than the top currents form that constantly mix what is inside.The heat is controlled so there is no real boiling, in the best option so that no part of the pot will go over 85° C.When all is hot enough so the first alcohol could run out the system is actually still closed.All vapour has to run back down the tower - which is why some towers even come with cooling fins...As a result all things with a low boiling point will stay in the tower as vapor and once the still is opened they come out first.The heads can be much smaller then too ;)Since the outlet is set at a suitable height and is naturally cooler than the steam, a lot of steam will condense above the outlet.Much more below it and only a fraction is collected to run to the outlet.That means that once the system has reached stable temps throughout that the tower is filled with ethanol vapour only.And since it is constantly re-boiled and runs back down and up all that comes out is already at quite high concentrations.With a good setup as high as 95% vol.It also means that you can have a great level of control about what exactly ends in your ethanol.Depending on how high the outlet is located a different amount of things that can either bond with ethanol or have a similar boiling temperature will be collected.Sole reason why most simple pot stills are designed to work with sugar and clean water only...When working with fruits as a base you often want quite a lot of the flavours and tastes preserved.Only experience and trying will get you tot he sweet spot where the alcohol content is just right and all wanted flavours are included.Go too high with your quality and the alcohol is too pure, go too low and the taste is bad...Which of course brings us back to why you should take your time before the cooking starts!I know far too many people who have no patience when it comes to the end of fermantation.Some yeast might be still active, far too much sugar left over in the mesh or just not enough care in general...You want most if not all of the sugar gone and used.What is not dead in terms of yeast needs to be dormant due to the alcohol concentration.And that can be the tricky part already!You see, once yeast dies off quickly due to the alcohol only the strong survive.In some cases, especially if you re-use your leftovers often, these few can still be active at over 20% of alcohol volume in the mix.The best option is to have a spare fridge and to put the entire container or drum in there.Let it sit cold for a few days, the yeast goes dormant, all sediments settly down to the bottom as no CO2 is produced anymore.Once all is really nice and clear use a hose or similar to remove the clear content only!Be careful here and once the levels are low use a seperate container to drain off!Take out what you can and if in doubt let what you take settle again for a day or two.Doing this time consuming step will make sure you only boil up what brings you the good stuff.On the other hand, when using potatoes, fruits or such you might have to press the liquid out and and add that to what you drained off already.I prefer to do this first and just put it back into the big drum again to let it all settle together.Ok, you only use sugar anyway but what comes out just does not taste or smell right...Would also mean you only use a basic still...As mentioned before the heads are what contains all the nasties.There are ways to actually measure if there is methanol present but for what we do now this is not so important.When the dripping start use shot glasses or such to catch it.Preferably while watching it ;)Smell what it is the glass when you put the next one under.The first glass should smell quite bad anyways.Quickly the smell in the glasses will change to something more "pure" and alcohol like - now start collecting for use.With a simple but good controlled still you will see the flow increases and levels out at some point.When the volume starts to go down your tails start.It is good practise to now use a seperate collecting vessel for the rest until what comes to fully discard.At some point you will notice the difference between just enough and really good temperature control.In a really good system the flow will go down to a slow drip or even stop.While in a dirt simple one the flow will just slow down for a while and then suddenly start running again.This running happens when the remainig water starts boiling...Keep smelling what comes out and once the taste or smell changes noticably again use a different container to collet what comes out. - This is you first tail collection.What comes out until the smell and taste go bad is your second tail collection - now you can turn your still off for a while.Let all what you collected cool down to room temperature is not already.Check what you collected from the heads, helps to have small jars for this ;)From start to last the smell should get better.If the last two or three collections smeel somehow interesting then add them to your main collection.Smell the first tail collection again - it should not be that bad anymore, especially if you let it cool down slightly open.Especially when working with fruits you might to add quite a bit of this to your main collection.If only sugar was used just move on to the last tail collection.In case you still don't like the smell mix the tail collection together and keep in a seperate and sealed vessel.Those tail collections can then later be used to destill them again (with more tails from other runs) to get a decent cleaning alcohol or something that might still be worth adding in small amounts for a better overall taste.However for sugar only mixes it can be considered to be for cleaning purposes only.What you have now is little waste and a lot of almost good alcohol.It still contains more or less amounts of unwanted things that mainly come from the yeast and their by-products.To "clean" you alcohol the best option is to destill it again - it will also increase the concentration quite a bit.Best option here is to use properly filtered and prefeably demineralised water to get back to a full fill of the still.If your still is quite small and what you collected would make for one or two full fills then go for it.Be warned though that you should not fill it up to the full mark, a bit under is better as the mix now will boil far quicker and more violent.Personally I prefer to have the alcohol conectration in the still at around 205% only.As we already discarded the worst of the worst in the heads during our first run only a tiny amount, like half a shot glass should be too bad in terms of taste and smell.Whatever comes after shall be fine.Again, once the tails start try to be carefull and if you can slow things down a notch.You will see a quite destinct reduction in the flow rate once the tails start - use a new container right away.The alcohol concentration should now drop quickly too as another indicator.If you want just pure tasting alcohol add what you comes out from this point to your tails container for later use as you don't want to drink it.Again, for fruits and potatoes you might want to keep the first bit of the collected tails.You alcohol concentration should now be already over 75% even if a basic still was used.The overall volume you collected will be lower accordingly of course - so don't be too disappointed by the liters you got from the second run.In a perfect world you now would use some nice barrel and let your creation age...But since we do moonshine...There is a chance that even after two runs you still taste and smell things you don't want or like.So if in doubt do it all again and get to 90 or more percent...Either way the final stuff should be now either watered down (filtered and clean of course) to the desired level.How to further improve on the outcome....There are little helpers along the way to get far bette results than without using them.If you check ready to go kits then they often contain specialised yest strains, a carbon mix and some "clearing aids".The yeast part is obvious, although I do prefer life prt wine yeast anyway.Carbon or activated charcoal is used to bind some of the bad odors and tastes the yeast produces.Keep in mind they are designed to work together, unlike using proper wine making cultures.Using power yeasts without carbon always results in a low quality.The clearing aids actually change the acidity levels and cause some things to mineralise or otherwise change so they settle to the ground.But they mainly make sure the yeast is dead.If you only use sugar then these kits are your easiest option and just follow their instructions.For fruits or anything else however you might want to try the slow route and use actual wine making yeasts for a change ;)And of course here we do not use carbon at all as we actually want to keep the taste of waht we use.We already had the proper way of getting the mesh to settle down, so that bit is clear.For sugar only you can now try to run your creation through activated charcaol or just add it and mix it.Let it sit and mix again for a few days.You do not need to filter the black stuff out, just drain it carefully and run the last bit through a coffee filter.Nothing will end in your destilled product.Inside the still you can use ceramic bioling thingies of all sorts.They provide a surface for water or mix to boil on instead of just the bottom.If you can't them for a good price then just use the stuff for aquarium filters ;)As said earlier too, copper is good but most modern stills are made from steel.If you can't find any copper wool pot cleaners you can cut some plumbing pipe into small sections.Inside the boiling vessel they will quickly turn brownish black while collecting bad things.Cleaning is easy with some cirtic acid/delimer/coffee machine cleaner...For a tower or reflux still it really helps to have these copper pads or wool inside for a far greater surface area to aid condensation and slow down the run off.I know how hard it is to get the stuff these days so if no other option use stainless steel ones and only loose the benefit of more cleaning through chemical reactions.Tools that come in handy....Monitoring the sugar and alcohol level to know when the mesh is right is quite obvious.What might not be is that you can correct bad level towards the end of fermentation.Yeast already dying slowly but far too much sugar left? Just add luke warm water to lover the alcohol conectration...Yeast going dormant with low alcohol levels? The sugar might be out so chack and if in doubt add some more.A good stir will help the remaining yeast to get more active in a day or two.So these little glass measuring tools should be put to good use from the start.During the destillation a purpose made overflow pipe to hold your alcohol tester is extremly helpful!The destilled liquid goes in through a pipe or hose at the bottom of the pipe.The bottom is closed, the top open to allow to drop the alcohol tester inside.Overflow or outlet should be just under the rim.During your run you can now see directly how the alcohol content changes.It will stabilse once the heads are finnished and get a slight rise just before it drops during the tails section.Improving basic desing of a basic still...Once you are done with a dead simple pot still and buy a reflux or tower model you might wonder why you did not build one yourself.What looked good on the pics and in the shop turns out to be still a bit away from perfect.The outlet might not have any flow control or is located to low/high.The vital overpressure protection might be missing and the thing sometimes runs out like a garden hose...For the later you can slavage some old pressure cooker and use the weight with the screw in counterpart in the lid ;)A simple hole in the top with flat weight on it works too, I used an old rubber plug from my bathtub one (could not find the purpose made one in time).For the outlet you can cheat a bit ;)Wrapping the tower with some insulating material improves on the heat loss - this helps if the still struggles to heat enough to provide a proper flow rate.Cooling the tower with wet towels, running water or similar well help on hot days or if the outlet is located reall high with little chance to provide decent condensation in the lower parts.How to cheat with the barrel....No matter if you just run with sugar or if you prefern corn, wheat, fruits....For some spirits good taste means good age.And well, good age for commercial spirits usually happens by resting in wooden drums.Oak, white oak, red gum and several other types of wood are used.Some small destilleries even use only locally available wood and won't even tell you which tree it was...Means we have a few chocices if we don't want to stick to the well known classics.But how do we make a barrel ?A good one is not just made from any old wood - the wood needs to be of the right age and moisture.To keep it simple just treat it like your firewood and let it rest for the same time.A good barrel is often "charred" - burnt with a flame or by rolling it with burning charcoal inside.This does two imortant things:1: It provides charcoal to bind remaining bad stuff.2: It releases some sugars from the wood plus resins and othe stuff.Both are an essential part of the final product and aging process!Now it becomes clear why a good sprit cost more than vodka...Using a neutral vessel like glass to age your spirit is one thing, preparing the wood the right way another...You see, size matters here in several ways.Big chunks provide a decent surface are without causing too much debris.The also provide more tannins for the color and more resins and sugar.Smaller chunks provide more charcaol for a higher level or binding impurities.But both will soak up far more alcohol than the correspong barrel size would!Obviously, if you are on a small scale on only got about 5 liters of alcohol to deal with loosing much is bad.The best way to char the wood IMHO is inside a clsed can or steel box.Just a small vent hole and a lot of turning with the right eye for when the wood is charred enough to be black and sealed.Opinions vary here but I use about a cup full of wood per 5 liters of alcohol at around 93% vol.Some goes for the storage, apart from dark some can't really agree here.Tossing and turning is as much prefered as undisturbed resting - take your own pick.The thig I do differently after the filtering off is to re-use the wood that is soaked.It goes into a freezer bag until the next run of the still and then the frozen wood is just added to the second still run to get back the alcohol in it, plus some nice taste and smell :)

Hello, I'm looking for a circuit the will convert 120VAC to about 90 VDC at .5 amps. If anyone could suggest a schematic or point me in the right direction of one that would much appreciated!

Hi,I have my Arduino mega connected to a 84 pixel Neopixel strip with an IR proximity sensor monitoring a basketball hoop. When the sensor is triggered the program executes a Neopixel animation. Simple as that. My question is:Is it possible for the Arduino to execute a Neopixel strip animation while simultaneously playing some type audio effects?

I've been getting into diy electronics and awhile ago I discovered Freeform (aka Flywire aka Deadbug) circuits and was immediately enamored. Recently Hackaday ran a Circuit sculpture contest, and there were some really great submissions, including The Ring Of Lights, 430man evolution, and one of my favorites, HYPNO-BUTT! VIEW THE REST OF THE HACKADAY CIRCUIT SCULPTURE CONTEST SUBMISSIONS HEREThis had me wondering what other works of art are out there waiting to be admired. I'd love to see any circuits of this sort that anyone might have or know of.

Hi,I'm new to Electronics but I love solar panels and hiking.S, I bought 2 of these:https://www.tomtop.com/p-l1613.htmland one of this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Solar-Boost-DC-D...and I connected them. I cut 2 USB Cables, connected + with + and - with - from each Cable and connected it to the DC-DC booster. The amperage is not doubled and the output Volts are lower than 5V which should be the constant output of the booster. The panels were solar oriented and the output was only 0.02 A with Bright enough sun from those 2 solar panels. The panels separately work fine, it is only when I connect them to the booster that they act weird.Is the problem in booster or is it me doing something wrong?Thank you!

Yesterday, I posted a instructable in Technology section under Arduino channel. The public link works, but it is not showing up in recent as well as in search results. Here is the link - https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Digital-Clock-With-7-Segment-LED-Display/. Can anyone address this problem and suggest what I did wrong there? This never happened before to me.

The Instructables community is incredible: you build, bake, and create amazing things, then share your projects and ideas with the world. I think it’s great when someone builds a project using instructions from our site, but it’s even more amazing when we inspire someone to start (or finish) that project they’ve always dreamed of. This has been my vision for Instructables: to have a positive impact on the world by giving passionate people great publishing tools to document their projects, and connect them to a community full of like-minded people. Today I’m able to share my plan for accelerating that vision, and making Instructables an even better place to be. I’m proud to announce that Instructables is becoming part of Autodesk. Everyone here at Instructables HQ is absolutely thrilled, because this is going to be awesome for the entire Instructables community. Instructables will still be the same site you love: we’ll keep the Instructables name and URL, the whole team is staying on, our policies haven’t changed, you still hold copyright to your projects, we’ll still run awesome contests, and the Robot isn’t going anywhere. However, we’ll now have the resources to make some improvements to the site I know our authors and community will love. Autodesk gives us the scale and support to grow and improve Instructables, build some great apps, and continue our mission of creating a positive impact on the world. Everyone on the Instructables team will become Autodesk employees, but we'll still wear our Robot t-shirts with pride. Autodesk is a great cultural fit for Instructables. They make tools for creative people: they’re the world leader in 3D design, engineering, and entertainment software. Even if you don’t recognize the name Autodesk, their software has powered the movies you watch, and designed the cars you drive and the buildings you work in. Instructables will be the community arm of the same team that makes 123D, SketchBook, Homestyler, and Pixlr, which will help provide creative tools, inspiration, and services for all types of creative people. Here’s Carl Bass, Autodesk’s CEO, talking more about his vision for the future of DIY. We’ve had a great time building Instructables, and look forward to taking it to the next level. Thanks to the Instructables team for all their hard work, our investors including O’Reilly Alpha Tech Ventures and Baseline Ventures for believing in us, and to all the authors and community members who have made Instructables a great place to learn and share ideas. I’m confident Autodesk will be a great home for Instructables, and will help us make Instructables an even better place to share your projects and ideas. I’m excited to join the Autodesk team, and get right to work. I’d also like to hear what you think: click here for info on an upcoming live Q&A; event, and click here to suggest how we should co-opt the resources of a multi-national corporation to make Instructables even more awesome. This announcement is duplicated on our blog here.

I would like to know how to put an extra water tank on this Hoover Powerdash Pet carpet shampooer. The one it's got is too small and has to be emptied constantly. Is there a way to do this without damaging the machine?

I'm interested in trying to make a faucet night light . (google it in images) - its a brass sill plat out door tap that looks like it has a water droplet and its illuminating GREEN ... I suspect it be fairly simple... to make the light go one or off - with a push button switch ( as the tap is screwed down)  as for teh water droplet any ideas??? I was thinking a  glob of  silicone.. ???? ( Thoughts?) Where would I get the LED from and would it work with 110volts? I figure I could just get a small plug in the back of the faucet ? Looking for thoughts and ideas on how to make it...

Hello,first time user here, so i would like to just apologize for the wall of text that's coming up.Im trying to build this little enclosure here https://www.instructables.com/id/Touch-sensitive-... and i have a hard time understanding the basics of the electronic schematic thats invovled, when he shows how to build it. Nor do i truly understand what components are in it, hence why i cannot determine the price of this build (based on electronics). So i was wondering if anyone could lable one component by one for me, aswell as how to connect them all together? so that i could calculate the pricing and see how much it would actually cost. Seccond thing is that i wanted to change it up a bit, and use neopixels, or ws2812b led strips instead with a teensy 3.2 and fastled library code, for that fiery effect. Thought that might look really cool. However im concerned with the power draw of these ws2812b led strips. Getting information from adafruit: 60mah per led at maximum brightness, but thats eye blinding, so a 20mah per led is more logical, as someone with neopixels wouldnt be running full white anyways, and more colorful setup, or patterns. Im able to get 144 led/m quite cheap, but then the power draw of just 1m is a whopping 8.64 A. Which is starting to sound pretty dangerous at 5v. But then again, im not buying neopixels to run at full white brightness, i want the patterns. Im wondering if there is any possibilites to make a admin command or a priority list or something to lower the brightness of the strip entirely without messing up the code? i know regular leds have ir remotes to dim the light. I mainly just want the red flame effect, which is only 20mah at max brightness and a peacefull 2.88 A, but i also want white light + i want the safety of knowing i can supply the strip of the power it needs, just incase. The video with the code is underneath: (code in video desc)and i know 144 leds/m is probably overkill, but then again, im getting them dirt cheap, + it would give off a much better fiery effect than a 60 leds/m or even a 30 leds/m thanks in advance for any replies, and sorry for my wall of text. :)

This is a portrait I drew of a friend of mine. It took me about 2-3 hours to complete. Please tell me what you think, thank you :)

As I've known so far there aren't receivers that mix audio.I want to mix 2 HDMI sources, lets say 1 is a PS4 and second is Xbox One, how would I mix them in 7.1? Mix the 2 audio sources into 1, is there a way of doing that? What is the simplest way.I know that there are stereo mixers, but haven't heard of a HDMI one.What is the simplest way of mixing both signals?I think it might have something to do with modulating the signals, but I dont specifically know how modulators work.

Has anybody made or thought about making an Instructable to make a 4 wheeled bike-like a car? I've seen them on the Internet for $3-4000. Thought it would be interesting because of higher gas prices.

I am trying to export a G-Code from Acura I noticed when I loaded the file, starts processing and at some point it stops. I can see the support material did not finish processing and the top portion is not complete.Then I make changes to the settings I increased the height of the layer and reduced the density.In other words is a lighter density overall. If i decrease this a lot, Then the software manages to finish the set up proces and the save button comback active to export Gcode.Seems like the large data of the higer density settings runs out of Disk space to create the cash.Does anyone know how can I fix this problem?I remember when I work in Adobe after effects editing videos, the software ask me to reserve a dedicated folder with an specific disk space just for cash, when this folder is full, the software ask you to empty the temporary cash files to make more disk space for more projects.Does anyone know how i fix the space disk or what ever i need to do to allow the software to finish procesing with higher density?Please helpYou can email me to gamelicruz@gmail.comThanks

Okay so i need some help with a prop for a photographing stuff in mid air.I need a device (flat surface) that I can place objects on and it will shoot them up in the air.Imagine a bowl of popcorn or a pair of glasses with water in them flying up in the air etc. I will then have sensors that will trigger the camera at the right time. (these devices and system I already have)My dream would be to be able to control this "jump table" device thru a simple solenoid valve. (12v) So my rough plan is to have to sheets of wood 40cmx50cm about 1cm thick.Next is to have a pneumatic cylinder in between these two that will push the top plate up and down.I probably need some sort of guides in the corners of the plates so it moves correctly.The pneumatic cylinder will be controlled by a solenoid valve, the solenoid valve i hope to turn on/off with a 12v power supply. The easiest solution for air source would be a co2 cartridge.But if that's to much pressure for the components maybe a cheaper air compressor in a smaller size is usable ?So what im looking for in general advice in terms of pressure and pneumatic cylinders, which i do not have any experience with.This video pretty much has the basic components i need i guess ?Any general advice what to look out for when choosing components and air source ?Thank you!

My partner and I just bought a house and we're doing some repairs and upgrades. One of the major things I want to focus on is making our front entrance less icy. Most of the time we're covered in snow, but whenever it warms up briefly we end up with an icy disaster on the front porch the next morning. :P Currently, the roof melt runs right off onto our front steps and it's a mess! (see picture for the icicle death trap)I have been using a "pet-safe" ice melt (we have two dogs who are in and out all day) but it doesn't do enough for how much I go through. I still break up the ice in the morning when using the ice melt because the ice builds up really quickly.Are there gutters strong enough to handle heavy snowfall? Some sort of heating element I could install? For reference, I'm in northern CO in the mountains and we tend to get feet of snowfall every winter! I've never lived somewhere with this much snow, but I'm hoping some of you do and can offer some suggestions :D

I'm making an arduino powered remote controlled flame thrower and i need an ignition source.  No pilot lights, and no tazers.  Any ideas?Thanks in advance  

I had to install Windows on an older HP laptop today.And being the nice guy I also updated the Bios to the latest available.Now these Windows tools for this job are great fun, start it, press a few buttons and all is updated.Well, until you realise the thing ends in a constant bootloop going back to the bios update part created on the recovery/backup partition.Going the official way by asking the support is pretty much useless as my searches only came up with copy and paste answers but no solution.Some people got desperate enough to order a new bios chip, program it and solder it in :(But the fix is sooo easy and obvious that it might take a little kick to realise it ;)I assume you downloaded the right tool and bios update.For HP and Lenovo it all comes in one pack anyway.I also assume the tool stated that all went fine and the backup and update were done correctly.Now the boot loop that you experience is actually on purpose ;)You are required to enter the bios - for my HP it is the ESC key, then F10.Here you load the defaults, then adjust what you need - like the boot order.Once you set the boot order to the internal HDD or the OS boot manager you are good to again.I hope that will help the desperate people that got nowhere by trying the support for their laptop ;)

Goodmorning everyone I am not very practical in this field, but I would like to know if it is possible to carry on this project and if someone can help me to develop itInstall IP cameras I want to create a card that powers a 47 v LAN port from the USB port of my PC so that the data cable can both power the camera and receive the video signalsI would need something like that in the picture even if it comes out bigger is not a problemthanks everyone in advance

First off, I would like to give notice to Electronics Projects for Dummies for most of this info.I wanted to make a site with many of the best sites to buy Electrical Parts, because it can sometimes be a strenuous activity. I have 10 here, because if you can't find something on one online store, you might be able to find it on the next.Reynolds ElectronicsReynolds Electronics is a good supplier of remote control components, micro controllers, and robot kits and parts. One feature that stands out on Reynolds Web site is the clear and helpful project/circuit tutorials. You can also find links for educational books on topics such as robotics and microcontrollers.Hobby EngineeringHobby Engineering is a sit slanted towards the hobbyist. This site carries some useful items that can be harder to find from other providers who are catered towards the corporate customer. it also has a good supply of micro-controllers, robot kits, parts, ad miscellaneous components and tools.All ElectronicsAll Electronics has an incredible selection of many of the useful items you would use to build your project. They are very inexpensive and it is easy to find your way around the site. This site also has a "consumer comments" section where the consumers get to talk about the quality of the product and more. (Thank you westfw)BG MicroBG Micro is a cool site for rare and pretty neat gadgets as well as a nice selection of alot of the items one will need for a weekend project. There is also a very nice search engine at the top which lets you search for an item you can't find on the left. (Thank you Las Vegas)Jameco ElectronicsJameco has a very nice site catalog. It's not very big that you sspect a forest was sacrificed in its making. I has great color photos with relatively easy to find components. This is one supplier wih a low price fuarantee which means that if you can show a part offered for less, the lesser price is honored. jameco also provides lower priced generic products as well as name brands.DigiKeyDigi-Key is a large distrbutor of components from various manufacturers, offering a very large catalog with lots and lots of choices. However, the site uses small print that might be hard to ead. The catalog includes line drawings but o part photos, but it does do an excellant job of labeling the parts. Overall, Digi-Key has a huge selection of products, but they might need a little looking to find them.loading...Mouser ElectronicsMouser ElectronicsAnother large distributor of components from various manufacturers is Mouser. I like how Mouser's site allows you to compile separate orders for different projects. You can come backa s many times as you like to complete your order and make your purchase. We also like how Mouser label parts because the labels are easy to read and provide alot of information about the specific part.Like Digi-Key, Mouser provides a very large catalog.RadioshackRadioshackEveryone knows Radioshack!. This electronics convenience store is pretty much like any food convenience store: CONVENIENT BUT EXPENSIVE. If you are stuck at 4:30 on a Sunday afteroon needing a small part to keep working on your project, this store is right for you. Be aware that not all radioshack are equal.Fry's ElectronicsFry's ElectronicsFry's has stores in nine states, and if you are lucky enough to live near one you can browse the isles in person. Fry's stocks all kinds of electronics and parts including an EXCELLANT selection of IC chips.Goldmine ElectronicsGoldmine ElectronicsIf you are in the market for bargains, try Electronic Goldmine.. This online store often offers sepcials that can save you money. Based in Scottsdale, Arizona, Electronics Goldmine offers great help with international orders and also offers wholesale items on auction on eBay.Quick Tip: Try clicking Electronic Goldmine Treasure Ball for the best deals!FuturlecFuturelec offers a very nicely done site with color photos of the parts that makes for easy browsin. Futurelec also offers semicnductor news links and also links to recently added parts to help you keep on the top of the latest and greatest as well as PCB design and manufacturing services.[htpp://maplin.co.uk Maplin]MaplinThe British suppplier Maplin has stores scattered around the U.K. and also offers an online store.Unlike electronic gadgets and appliances that operate on different voltages in European contries, electornic components are pretty standard. Although Maplin will ship overseas, you might want to check out U.S. Suppliers first.SparkfunSparkfun was originally a PCB Manufacturer, and turned in to a company well beyond their expectations! They have a large variety of PCBs, LEDs, and MANY more everyday electronics components. The site is well organized with so much to choose from!

I recently ordered a REX C100 for my electric melting furnace project. As it came already with a SSR and temp sensor I only added a sensor capable of reading more than 400° of the supplied one. These controller are dirt cheap and have lots of support in the modding community - although you now can get them new in all variations so no more modding required. Internally they run on 12V DC, so even mobile use is possible (but this time after modding). My problem with this controller started with the not included manual. As it is no China clone but an original from RKC Japan, I downloaded their manual and tried to adjust the max temp settings as well as changing to the thermocouple. To my surprise the menus for that simply did not exist on my model. Reading a few more manuals showed that to get to the "initial or factory setup" you need to change the lock code. Here things get confusing: Once in the lock menu setting most manuals state to enter "0000" to activate the hidden menus. (Mine was alreay on 0000) Others state to set the code to "0100". In any case you have to hold the setup key for a few seconds to store the changes and after that hold the settings and shift key for about 5 seconds to enter these factory menus. After being close to send the unit back I tried different code combinations and finally found that "1000" actually activates the hidden menu on my model! But again there was no joy as several vital settings still did not show up. To finally get all settings another step is required: The first item in the hidden menu is "CODE" and it shows as "0000". After changing this to "0001" the setup key can be used to get to the settings to change the max and min temps. Once all this done the controller actually shows the selected sensor and if Celsius or Fahrenheit is used at the start and from now on simply by clicking through the hidden menu with the setup key you can get to the min and max temp settings again. I hope this info will help someone running into the same brick walls as I did...

Iam new here, after searching on google and many electronic forums and all, I still can't find a LED Strobe light circuit, which would run off a 12v dc Car Battery.You Tube is loaded with lots of people displaying them, but can't find the circuit to make one for me.check what i want the LED columns to do for me.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_FCks1c6E4orhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE6JZ9fPVqEorhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7kf1MnJ2R8Please help me with this, Iam a L.E.D. Fan and can't sleep, i dream of strobes and can't find one, huh.I've some Mods done to my car lights, I'll make some videos and share them with you all here soon.Thanks for your time :-)

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I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.https://showbox.red/ https://downloadnox.com/ https://downloader.vip/vpn/

So, I will start with what I have in mind.  (Might be total rubbish because I don't fully understand).  You have a solar collector box, not more than 1 meter square.  painted black 1 to 2 cm deep,   and probably with glazing over top. The box itself is metal fully closed up and the back is insulated.  From the box through the insulation there are some metal tubes that go to another box at back for the cooling chamber. Tubes are constricted so the air sprays through to the cooling box and it goes into steel wool as it expands. On the reverse stroke, it does not go so much through the steel wool because the nozel constriction is  on that side not the hot side.   Power is taken away from a liquid piston somewhere attached to both chambers  or a diaphragm at the back. (It can be water cooled). I want the strokes to be long and slow. Can it work?   Temp difference will only be around 40 degrees C and the pumped air ( 2 valves  in chamber off of liquid piston) only needs to go to 2 psi. )    I have been in contact with a guy in Germany who made Sterlings that worked with sun heat.    But he didn't use Fluidyne (also called liquid piston stirling) and he did not pump air.          My specs are extremely low, I only need 60 litres per hour of air at 1 or 2 PSI.  It would be very cool to make it from such basic materials.                 Thanks Brian