Hi friends. I need someone to help me write Arduino code for my project. I will pay 20 US$ for each code you make...will put the money to your paypal account, or if you like can order something for you from EBAY and ship to your address.. please msg me I send you the flowchart and what the code is sopposed to do. Thanks

Though there's no members at the moment I figured I'd go ahead and start a topic. In this one, just post pics or scans of some of your drawings. Here's three of mine:

I was reading all of the labels on things in my house, mostly spray-able things like spray paint, spray adhesive, spray enamel, etc., etc., to see what's flammable, and on the bottle of ammonia we have it says "Do NOT use to soak aluminum utensils in...." or something like that. What does ammonia + aluminum equal or do? Is it flammable? Thanks all you chemistry-buffs!

I have double pane, insulating glass house windows that collect condensation during the winter heating months. The condensation is not between the panes, it is inside the home. The water builds up and runs down onto the wood frame causing rot. It occurs only on the bottom inch or two of the window. The home is in Northern Wisconsin where it is commonly 20 deg F outside and 70 deg F inside. The interior humidity is controlled and not excessive. Aside from setting the interior humidity to desert-like conditions, how can I remove the moisture and prevent further damage to the frame? Desiccant bags? Solar powered fans? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Gamecube controller I want to take apart, but it has triangle screws. They're like Phillips (four-pronged) but only have 3 prongs instead. I don't have a screwdriver for this, so I need a way to unscrew them.EXAMPLEUPDATE: Not trying to be impolite, but I am NOT looking for a place to buy this kind of screwdriver. I am looking for a way to unscrew them WITHOUT the specific screw driver.

Hi,My dog bought this item to me whilst walking along Duranbah Beach in Queensland Australia.It floats on water, weighs 323 grams, has a nice sweet smell. Ambergris buying experts in France say "definitely not ambergris".Passes all the tests for ambergris including hot needle.James Cook University, 5 marine biology experts came back to say "not certain from photos but most suggested ambergris"One image on ambergris New Zealand buyers website looks almost identical to this piece.I really would like to know what it is, if anyone can help with guidance or perhaps seen similar.Look forward to feedback.Thanks in advance.Best RegardsBrendan WarlowSheldon, Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.

Do anybody now the correct crossslot standart for NAS (National Aerospace Standard) and MS (Military Standart) screws? is it Phillips? Frearson/Reed/Prince? JIS/JISC? or any standart else?

Have one of those $180 steel framed, 10 x 10, two tier roof, gazebos that every retailer seems to sell now a days. (kind of like the one in the picture) Its perm attached over our hot tub. Problem is, the nylon top keeps deteriorating and then shreds and has to be replaced. Any ideas on a good, cheap or maybe recycled material, roof that would be permanent? (WI=Snow in winter, has to be strong enough for an occassional storm) And how to attach it maybe? Looking for a few brainstormed ideas because all I can think of is boring PLYWOOD! *GRIN*

Hi I have a Kam KHM600 Haze machine which currently has a wired controller. I would like to convert it to wireless operation. Does anyone have any advice on how to do this?

Hi my friends.I want to make my own CNC Router,but i want to add an Camera for point positions and cutting through black lines using mach3.\I will send an youtube link from one CNC that has this function.If anyone has an idea how can make something like this please write to me.

I have Bluetooth headphones, & I'm modifying them. I want my Bluetooth to light up tow external LEDs when I turn the device on. I can't wire a line to the micro LED, its to small for me to solder. I was thinking wiring the External LEDs to the Bluetooth's battery. Is there a way to make a simple connection from the battery, to the external LED wire & back to the circuit board, so when ever the Bluetooth is switched on, all the external LED is indicating is the power going to the circuit board?

I recieved a free, working TV the other day. The only problem with it was the pin from an RCA video cable had broken off inside the socket. I didn't want to spend money on an RF modulator for my DVD Player, so I figured out a pretty solid way of getting the pin out. 1.) Find a needle 2.) On a hard surface, bend the very tip of the needle slightly so that it forms a tiny barb. 3.) heat the tip of the needle with a lighter until it glows red hot. 4.) stick the needle into the plastic core of the broken RCA pin 5.) wait a few seconds for it to cool 6.) pull the needle out, and the broken tip should follow!

I have been trying to create color stripes in the same manner as Mariko Kusumoto. Cotton and silk thread have not worked. I think I need a different tool to apply polyester dye or different thread. The second image is messy but it was to test the strength of the dye on the bubbles. I think my problem now is how to draw the lines using polyester dye before steaming. 

I have a CMF bone growth stimulator that no longer works. These devices are set to die after so many uses. Does anyone have any ideas on how to reactivate these units? Or, hacking these things for another purpose?

Here's a look back at the 100 highest-viewed Instructables published in 2018. It's a fun collection full of inspiring, clever, and educational projects. Be sure to take a look:Top 100 Instructables of 2018Thoughts, comments or observations are welcome below!

Aka How to receive feedback, get featured, and be awarded internet fame + more!I know it's been a minute since I've put a post like this in the forums, so allow me to (re?)introduce myself.Hai!I'm audreyObscura. I love making stuff, playing with cameras, petting dogs, and eating pizza. I've worked here at Instructables since 2012 doing a little bit of everything, and I solemnly swear that the best thing about working here is getting to learn something new every day from amazing community members like YOU!These days, a good chunk of my time is spent queuing our posts on social media platforms and boosting Instructables authors that use Twitter and Facebook to share their projects. (And finding the perfect gif to reply to Twitter threads, I'm very good at it - try me.)I'd love to start featuring more videos and gifs on our channels, but need a little help from the community. We are looking for media to help give YOUR INSTRUCTABLES a boost on our social media feed! What we'd like to receive:Great, high quality, short-form videos (under 1 minute) GIFs! Under 3MB preferred (bonus points for perfect loops)Examples: What we don't want to receive: YouTube URLsProjects hosted outside of Instructables.com What you'll get out of it:Momentary internet fame and all the warm and fuzzies that come along with community recognition!An Instructables Author Thank You pack in the mail which includes our super sweet Robot Stickers, an idea notebook, pencils, and a super fun enamel pin!Feedback! We want to work with you and coach you through making great feature-worthy content. If you share something that isn't quite up to our snuff to post to our channels, have no fear, we'll still send you a little gift AND let you know HOW you can improve your content!If you go above and beyond, maybe we'll send you something extra too, so impress us! Send your vids to this email address!Have you already posted an Instructable with a great demo video or explainer gif? Drop us a link in the comment section below and we'll review your project to see if it's a good fit for our social media feed!Lastly, I wanted to leave this post with some inspiration and some skill building tips to get started. Hope these help: How to make a gif How to turn movie clip into a gifPlease comment below with any questions you may have, and I can't wait to see what you share.Thanks!-Audrey

For those of you who have time off over the holidays, what will you be working on?I have 3D printing and laser cut jewelry ideas I want to work on both for Instructables and Etsy while I (hopefully) have some time and I was curious if people had plans for projects they wanted to try to get done.

I have an electric billy cart with a dead controller board. I constructed the kit circuit below to replace the dead board and it works well enough for the job except for one small problem. The throttle on the billy cart utilizes a hall effect device and not a pot. The billy cart also has a handbrake with a switch that closes when applied. I use this with a resistor to discharge C2 and pull pin 4 (inhibit) high. This ensures a gentle start (as the capacitor slowly charges through the 100k resistor) if the brake is released with the throttle advanced. The output range of the throttle is 950 mV to 4.1 V if VREF (5V) is used as the supply. (I'm dropping it in in place of the pot.) 4.1 V is sufficient to achieve the maximum 90% duty cycle of the chip, but 950 mV leaves me with a minimum duty cycle of about 21%, and of course a motor that won't stop. Will changing the divider ratios 20k/2k2 & 47k/47k be sufficient to get me zero speed or am I going to have to do something more exotic? Thanks in advance.

This is from a 1949 Pfaff 332 sewing machine foot pedal. (I believe the machine was brought to the US by a war bride.) When I tried the machine recently, it wouldn't completely stop when I took my foot off. We opened it up and found this partially decomposed multi layered 'thing'. Other than dust and dirt, it looks like the only damaged part. Does anyone know what it is? Does anyone know what a modern equivalent would be?

The kicker now is that your smartphone holds far more information than a pocket ever did, How is the battery designed to last longer?

Hello fellow instructables :) Right I need some help and advice on a design brief to help fix my problem. Problem - I live in a ground floor flat and there is 1 flat above me, 2 scum bags occupy it, a couple of 22 year olds and they have obviously never been taught consideration for others and they bang and thrash around all through the early hours of the morning. When they bang on their bare wooden floor it sounds like a heavy metal dumbbell coming through my ceiling and it wakes me abruptly and its ruining my life :( I've complained to the council the past 18 months but there not interested. They have not put any carpet down in their flat in the last 18 months and it looks like they have no intention of doing so (they can afford fags n booze tho), plus they have a baby due any day now, great.. so now there making their problems, my problem. Solution - The only thing I can think of is making a soundproof sleeping closure, a large box like a 4 poster bed but all sides solid made out of a layer of MDF then insulation then more mdf, but I have some questions before I start. How would I get adequate air in and out ? Would this even stop the banging on my ceiling waking me up ? or would it still penetrate the box ? How would I control the temperature, would it be too hot in there ? Something like the image below but more solid with a door. If anyone has any experience with this or input or any good ideas I'd be ever so grateful. Cheers in advance. Matt

For mayn years it was almost logical to get full root access on your new smartphone or tablet.The other fraction might now it as "jailbreaking"...No one really needs it unless they are not happy with they way the mnufacturer designed the operating system and features.The removal of bloat, apps the user never needs, is still the most common reason for rooting.Custom ROM's offering a different experience are right behind.Now we also have TV's, entertainment boxes of all kinds, even from our ISP's directly.The main provider for the operating system is now Google with only a few "competitors" left.Apple has a strong hold of the mobile and tablet sector too but is not really presented in other areas.Android is still open source but Google heavily modifed it to suit the needs of data collecting and security for features like banking, access control and so on.What is good for the normal user and perfect for those with security in mind can be really bad for those actually just using a device.No matter why you buy a new phone from your provider, you almost never buy it for the added apps and services.Rooting has become more and more difficult.One reason of course is constant security updates and removing possible access options for even simple things like getting USB debugging and an unlocked bootloader.People dedicated to find ways to remove provider locks, creating custom firmwares or the basic tools required to work with firmwares were called hackers.If you buy a new car and decide to modify it with a new engine, seats or whatever than no one will stop you.So why don't we have the same rights for our electronic companions?I wouldn't call it hacking, I would call it actually owning and controlling your device instead of Google letting control you - or Apple, but who cares....The other reason is dead simple: Those guys who started it all have retired or found employoment with those they fooled for so many years.Chainfire should ring a bell for anyone ever concerned with rooting.The master is gone now and only a few people are willing to take his legacy.For Asian devices the community over there is better off but for our market region right now Magisk seems to be the only option left for modern devices.The sneaky ways to lock us out....Security comes at a price, simple as.You can offer secrity for money transfers if the device is not trustworthy.Same for online streaming - you want the money for what you give and prevent that someone is able to make unwanted recordings without encryption.The list goes on with access control system and literally everything we use our devices for that involves some security.Even with the lates PIE systems Google's own devices are still quite friendly in terms of gaining root access.Different story though if a manufacturer makes full use of all the latest addition at Google's disposal.Device security no longer starts with the boot we see.It is now possible to create a hardware based tree of trust.This means any modification to anything will cause a failure.This locks out all "tools" able to read out partitions and vital data while a device is in fastboot mode.And of course said fastboot can be fully disabled as well now.For security reason a so called A/B configuration is used.Updates come over the air and are applied to the dormant system.Next start will boot the new system and then update the old one, no requirement to manually apply and update.The recovery can also be abandoned and replaced by a system using a copy on the device itself that is updated through OTA updates with the firmware.So both ways to gain official access can be full removed from the user.From there we get encryption, hash checks and literally everything working in its own user space - a full SELinux enviroment at the highest level.There are already devices utilising a lot of this and so far the only way to get any sort of insight was done by those intercepting OTA updates on a router level.And apart from quickly changing the encryption with the next updates nothing was gained.Is it all coincidence?Of course not.Well known leaks were kept open for years.Kernel updates gave improvements and closed really old leaks but never all known ways.With the retirement of the best rooting experts these holes were suddenly closed.Checks of latest kernel releases showed that there is no known vulenerabilities anymore that can be misused to gain access.And those finding new ones and making them available for us are bascally gone now.Encryptions and packing algorithms changed, same thing for the actual handling of partitions and rights.Anyone with a decent understanding of how the old ways worked will be able to figure it out with some time wasted on it.From there however the outcome is often dark.The tools needed to work with these new files are not always updated anymore.The developer simply moved on and most of the time without publishing his source codes.And the still best way to protect your firmware from tampering is to encrypt it.In the old days it was enough to sign a ZIP file with a release key not available to the public.Custom recoveries allowed us to get around this.This still works to some extent but now we also get additional checks starting from the bootloader.A modified system will be detected and stopped and a stock system will stop i a modified boot is detected.Even using a custom recovery by flashing or through fastboot is preventable now.Right now the only way for most new devices is a total wipe and the installation of an unsecure firmware with everything.As you already guessed this is to prevent now as well.So does all this rooting stuff actually concern you?Of course not!If you never had any need for rooting or no clue what to do differently with a rooted device than you are a happy camper.But your neighbour or friend might think differently.You see, I have two problems when it comes to "stock" devices.a) I have no clue what data they collect from me and what it might be used for.b) I do not like being forced to agree to terms that are endless and of questionable content just to use the damn thing.For crying out loud: In most cases it is now impossible to even set up a new device without working internet and a Google account.....

I have a bunch of empty Zipfizz containers. I don't want to toss them in the trash (no plastic recycling in my area). What in the world could I make with them that would be useful?

Hi everyone. I'm stuck with power supply problems in my project. My project is a drink dispenser (cocktail machine) with water level indicators. I was thinking of putting 4 water pumps connected to relay modules, controlled by Arduino or microcontroller (something like attiny). The microcontroller would receive a command with 2 push buttons (tasters) and depending on the button pressed, it would combine 2 liquids from 2 tanks into one glass. Now, the code isn't a problem. I need to add a liquid level indicator to the circuit (4 indicator circuits for 4 liquid tanks). Now, the pump I was thinking of buying is rated 5V and the current draw is about 150-250 mA. Attiny2313 operates on 2.7V-5.5V. I found the water level indicator circuit also rated 5V ("https://www.electronicshub.org/water-level-alarm-using-555-timer/" but I was thinking about the one without 555 timer). Now, my question is, what is the best way to power all these components. I was thinking about getting a 220V to 5V 2A PSU adapter ("https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V-TO-DC-5V-12V-24V-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-Adapter-LED-Strip-Light/152134115704?hash=item236be66178:m:mnohYz4NZlT_Dq5l5lWNUMg:rk:1:pf:0"). Will that be enough and will it destroy any of my components. Thanks in advance!

This post is not about the Pixlr editor that was removed from the site. I use Pixlr express several times a week, and now it doesn't open up on any computer that I try.  Is there a chance that you could try to access pixlr express and let me know if it works on your computer? I've tried a few so far on all browsers, updated flash, restarted, etc. https://pixlr.com/express/ I just get a gray screen :( Thank you!

Is it allowed to enter 2 different projects in the pcb contest?https://www.instructables.com/contest/pcbcontest/

We are making a parabolic solar hot water heater and have been working on it for several years now.  We have been searching for a better glue to stick the 8' x 4' sheet of aluminized Mylar to the PET backing.  We have tried everything from axel grease to double-sided tape but really need something that we can roll on with a paint roller, that won't eat the Mylar (which is basically plastic) and which will allow us at least 5 minutes to place the Mylar and to move it around a little until it is in position - and then harden. The most recent type of glue we were looking at was something like the glue that comes in a small stick that kids use for making things with paper - a glue stick i think it's called.  However this is not liquid enough to be able to be applied with a roller (i suspect we need a roller in order to get it on fast before it sets). Anyway, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  Have a super morning!  :)

Clock working fine except that when it is dark there is no time displayed and it is obvious that the dimmer is sensitive.Open up the clock by removing four tiny posidrive screws and carefully prising the top and bottom apart. ( preferably with a plastic prising tool to avoid damaging it). Disconnect the supply to clock. Small white two pin plug in the motherboard attached to dimmer. Remove plug and short out (connect together) the two pins that it plugs into. For a simple repair push some aluminium foil trimmed to size (like the thickness of aluminium foil on shop bought mice pies) between them. This will eliminate the dimmer and allow the time to be displayed in the dark. unaffected by the dimmer.. OR simply snip the red and black wires and join them together.These clocks cost about £60.00 so it's worth doing.

I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.

Hi,I'm creating a show and have just seen an Instructsble "Ghost Knocker" that was posted about 6 years ago.It's exactly what I've been looking for a long time. It's not possible for me to make it due to time constraints etc and want to ask if there is anybody in the community who could make one for me. It uses an Arduino unit.The link to buy the kit is no longer available and electronics are not my strong point...If there's anyone out there who can then please let me know and an estimate of the cost and time-frame etc.Link: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-Gh...ThanksLanceS24

Hi Everybody, I'm working on a robotics project requiring strong linear actuators(LAs). For the most part I see that using LAs is the same as using DC motors. The red and black cables of the LA would connect to the motor +/- terminals of a motor controller. The main power source would connect to the battery +/- terminals of the motor controllers, and the motor controllers input could then come from a microcontroller or single board computer (SBC) using PWM / R/C control. This should allow me to control the direction and the speed of extension. However, for my application I and going to need multiple LAs the need to extend exactly in sync. The best way I can think to do that is to sense their individual extensions and program the LAs so that they stay in sync with each other. From what I've seen what I'm looking for are LAs with built-in limit switches and potentiometers.  What I don't know is how to hook these up to their motor controllers and microcontroller/SBC. An example I'm looking at is this one from Firgelli Automations: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=94&products;_id=159. Unlike hobby servos this LA has 5 wires. Two are the positive and negative power wires and the other three relate to the potentiometer. I know you can control the extension this way but so far I've only found youtube videos and couldn't see how they hooked everything up. This datasheet for different LA (http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/L12_datasheet.pdf) helped me understand what the potentiometer wires do, but not how to use them with a PWM microcontroller. Does anybody have experience with this? Thanks for reading

I'm having some trouble with the cover image of my instructables: sometimes the image of the first step is the one that goes to the cover (like I want it to be), but sometimes any aleatory picture goes to cover. How can I choose the cover image, and how can I change the cover image of an instructable already published? Thank you!

Hello Great Mind. I am interested in Robotics but I don't know where to start. I think I will be needing an instructor, too. I really need your help and advice.

Hi guys how are ya doin? :DRecently I'm working on the next project, which is about battery powered bicycle led lamp. So in that case I want to use LED driver. Then I've founded this schematic with CMOS 555 timer, who runs more than 5 LEDs in series. Excited by this new found schematic, I bought the parts & connected them like so. Unfortunately, it turns out, it wont work. :/ At 3.7v they won't even light up, but at 5v they start to shine a little bit. I'm wondering do I need to put different transistor (in my case it was PN2222A - that's the one I had and its equivalent to 2N4401)? Or what the problem with this circuit.I would more than thankful for your help. :D

Can I wire 7000 lithium ion battery cells (about 75kwh) in parallel, and then use a lightweight bike engine hooked to a DC generator and connected in series to the batteries to boost voltage? Are there any flows in this design concept, for use in a hybrid race vehicle to increase the longevity of the batteries?I am trying to develop a race track car which is hybrid, thus utilizing electric motors immense torque.We build original race cars with common petrol engines but now I’m seriously thinking of developing a next generation race car. I know batteries don’t last long in high drain situations and thus any race car I sell will need a battery replacement after a race season. I’m sure this will be bad for business. Thus this is why I’m thinking of ideas to prolong the battery life by reducing current drainage. That’s why I want to have an engine generator with its sole purpose is just to boost voltage, and about 20,000ah worth of batteries connected in parallel so I reduce current demand per battery cell to well under 1C. Giving a Tesla p100d as an example I would require about 1200 amps and 400 volts to produce 480kw of power. If wire all 7000 battery cells in parallel to produce the same amount of current then each cell will need to provide about 0.18amps that’s very low to sustain longevity of the batteries. The generator is then connected in series to help boost the system voltage to 400vIn extrem simple terms, (the batteries provide the current, and the engine generator provides the voltage)I hope you understand why I’m looking at it this way. I know it might not be the most efficient way, but is it a practical doable way? Thanks

Hello I am an avid inventor of new product designs:I am currently working on Project: Foam-Fan: For Global Cooling Prize:See Details Here:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/richard-bransons-gl...I have entered my preliminary submission, received great feedback from GCP, and I am now seeking a developer team to help prototype this invention for the next stage of submissions.Feel encouraged to browse my Product Design Inventions on Twitter (User: @jay_bee12345) and message me back if you'd like to collaborate on developing my product design works. Details:https://twitter.com/jay_bee12345I also regularly post and update Product Design Articles on LinkedIn, Let's Connect!Example:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/2-new-nokia-inventi...My LinkedIn Profile:https://www.linkedin.com/in/jaswinder-brar-8098791...Let's Work Together & Innovate the World!Thank You.Jaswinder Brar.Calgary, Alberta, Canada.JSB23@hotmail.CA

Hello everybody, I have made my own USB IR receiver using and Arduino to program the core of the project which is an attiny85. I dealt with a lot of issues and got desperate as well trying to put it together. After many hours of study and research on the Internet I came up with a solid procedure to make it work. Now I enjoy my own receiver that I can program to work with any remote. The procedure is not easy, so I made my own guide for future reference that evolved into an instructable to return to the community of makers and developers part of what I have got from them:\ https://dltutuapp.com/ dltutuapp.com/ showbox.red/

I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Nox ShowBox Mobdro

I am working on a project that involves multiple sensors as well as a handful of output devices, and am looking for the best solution on how to collect data from the sensors, have certain actions occur based off of the sensor input, as well as be able to have a web-accessible page where the logged data could be viewed. Additionally, I would also like to be able to modify certain variables (such as changing thresholds for when output devices are activated, for how long they are activated, etc) on the webpage. A very similar solution to a different situation that I am familiar with is OctoPrint. With OctoPrint, you can view your 3D printer live from the comfort of any machine on the network, as well as send custom commands to it, or even initiate prints. My application would be very similar to what OctoPrint offers, with the addition of being able to view collected data from sensors, as well as changing variables within scripts. The current hardware I plan on using consists of an Arduino as an analog to digital converter for the analog sensors, as well as the controller for relays and other output devices. The Arduino would be plugged into a Raspberry Pi (or really any machine would work, I think), which is essentially how an OctoPrint setup works. Ideally, I would like to have the Raspberry Pi act as the webserver/host (I would be the only individual accessing the webpage, so a pi should be enough for that? If another computer would be needed to host the webpage, then Ideally I would like to omit the pi altogether.)I would like the input data to be logged and displayed in a graphical manner, through graphs and charts. A friend recommended using a database, such as MySQL; is this a good option, or is there something that would be more efficient? The control/data page wouldn't necessarily need to be accessible to the world wide web, although that would be convenient (I would prefer not needing to pay for a domain though). So long as I could access it from the local network, that would suffice.If there is some program/software that allows me to do all/most of this, that'd be great. Otherwise, I'm just looking for input on what would be the most optimal route going about this. Ideally the less complicated the better, but I'm not afraid of learning new things.

Hi everyone, Do you have any suggestions for an amateur to buy her first one printer? Thanks for your advice firstly!

I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel http://movieseriesworld.com/ out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated Thanks...

Is this somehow related to discharge rate? I'm trying to replace existing sub c batteries, but their price is put me off. Can anyone provide some info? If use equal capacity aa, what the difference gonna be (once again discharge rate)? I would  really appreciate any info about this.

Does anyone have an idea about collecting plastic waste from lakes and rivers?If you do share your ideas it should be a machine which is automated to collect plastic waste from water.

Over the years here at Instructables, we've seen our fair share of truly inspired Holiday Sweaters get posted as folks head to their holiday office parties and family gatherings. We love the home-made handicraft and nostalgia factor holiday sweaters have, and how they can range from totally adorable to wildly over-done. We recently were reminiscing over this collection of Ugly Holiday Sweaters and it struck us that we could have a little fun with the community this holiday season, so we decided to throw an online Ugly Sweater Party this weekend!If you show off a photo of yourself in your holiday finest, or rather holiday ugliest, in this forum post, or on Instagram/Twitter, we'll send you a prize pack with some Instructables goodies. Once you've donned your festive apparel, share it below in the comments, or post a photo and tag your pic with @instructables and #iblesUglySweater so we can see it! We'll repost the best outfits and pictures in our feed. We'll be awarding prize packs to all the folks that participate before Monday 12/17 11:59 PM PST.Want a prize pack but, don't have anything in your closet to show off? Get inspired and get craftin'! Our personal favorites from the community are jessyratfink's Crazy Cat Lady sweater and this Stranger Things sweater by .F that can be programmed with cryptic messages. They both use LED lights as a material but work with different electronics skill levels for the complete beginner as well as the practiced tinkerer, and still show off the range of what is possible for a holiday wearable!Looking for even more ways to celebrate the holidays with Instructables? Check out our Ornament giveaway and Holiday Decor Contest!

I've just published my first instructable 1 hour ago.I would like to en ter in the "First Author Contest" but I forgot to put it in.How can I do ?Could you help me ?Friendly,Tanguy.

I am living in a condo (apartment Building, 2nd Floor). For the last 5 days my house smells of chemicals like paint or something very close to the paint . In the living room we have small office area with computer and printer where smells very strong. Also this smell is in the kitchen, in the bedroom, all over the apartment. I am the only one that can smell it. It is not paint. The refrigerator works ok, the stove is electric and the furnace is turned off.  The Consumers checked for gas, but there was non. Who should I call in order to come and detect where  this smell is coming from? 

As far as I know, DeWalt has not incorporated lights into their cordless drills as some other manufacturers have. Could someone make an LED light which would come on when the magnetic field produced by the drill motor is sensed? Perhaps a sensor taped to the drill body, and a small LED light pointing forward, or a ring of light around the drill chuck? Rufus 123Movies GoMovies

Ok, so I'm working on a project. I need to know how I can reduce 18volts down to 12volts. If someone would explain how to calculate this myself I can figure out what resistor (or series of resistors) I need.

Every now and then I order a sample of an integrated circuit from companies such as TI, Atmel, or Microchip. But can I get too many. If I order too many do you think they will catch on to my using of their free samples for hobby use and not research? I stopped ordering because I am afraid they might start charging me for all the chips I ordered. What's your opinion?

While I am a a hands-on person, that mostly extends to art and sculpture rather than engineering. Therefore, I thought I ought to bring this question to people with a little bit more knowhow in that area. See, with the cold winter months coming on camping is becoming a little more arduous. More to the point, heating a tent safely is a real problem. I don't trust gas powered heaters....but there's not a whole lot of alternatives out there. So I was wondering if anyone here could think of a way to safely heat a tent for a prolonged period of time. Preferably without gas, electricity, or risk of fire.