Efficient/High output Joule Thief?

Right now, I am looking for schematics for the most efficient (1 cell and 1 LED) joule thief, to use as a durable reading light. I right now favour Quantstuff's 2 transistor SJT (http://quantsuff.com/LED2.htm) but I am not sure whether it is the most efficient. I've seen several others, but since they all claim to be equally as efficient, i'll have to rely on the experience of other tinkerers and hobbyists. So: what's the most efficient or high current or high voltage joule thief you know of?                                                                                                                          Thanks.

Question by .Unknown. 8 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


High Voltage Amplifier

I am trying to build a high voltage amplifier that will amplify an AC signal of approx. +-5V to a signal of approx +-100V.  I was looking into building a common-source amp using JFETs or a common-emitter amp using BJTs, but both seem to have an output waveform of 0V to +100V.  Is there a way to modify these amps to have an output waveform of -100V to +100V?   Also, if anyone has any better Ideas, please let me know. Mark

Topic by questionmark05 8 years ago


High Output portable power source, possibilities?

I'm designing a large scale robot, and I want a generator of sorts that runs very efficiently for a sustained period of time. It would need to be able to power 13 Large electric motors, 29 smaller electric motors, and run a smorgasbord of electronic systems to control them. Ideas? It needs to portable, long lasting, and be able to take on the demand of everything.                

Question by Slashaar 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


high output metal to metal thermoelectric generator?

I saw this on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNND2pxvxgU He has like 16 wires in this setup, and it generates enough power to light an LED... how much power could you get with some more wires? Say 1600? Does the thickness of the wire matter? Sorry to make you watch the youtube video, if you don't want to, here's what's going on. This guy, Nyle, uses copper wire lengths which he has heated at one end and cooled to coat each end of each length with copper oxide. He then bends the wire so that two ends of copper oxide-coated wire are touching and another end is about 3 inches from the junction. By heating the loose end, and touching one wire to another, he's able to generate enough current to light an LED... pretty neat!

Question by jmlidea 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


High Current measurement

I need to measure Current from a welding machine to make a alarm if it goes down below some level for ensuring better quality of welding. The current normally set is of the order of 200A max with around 100V DC.Not sure if i could use some clamp-on meters and pass those values out to Arduino for switching circuit. Shunt resistors may be a better option. But to make a signal conditioner to convert the ma output will be a problem i guess..is there something i can do with Arduino.. any ideas guys....? Thanks in advance Chuppandi

Topic by chuppandi 7 years ago


A need for high voltage supply. Answered

Hi friends!! I am making a generator.But the problem is that the output obtained is just 1 volt.Is there a way to increase it to 5volts??

Question by Beduk 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


oil burner ignition transformer and uses question ? Answered

I recently just got a hold of a Allanson oil ignition transformer, the output voltage is 10,000 volts at 23 ma. the power cord was cut so i have to connect another power cord. what gauge or metal is recommended for the output terminals and can i attach a power switch to the 120 A.C. volt line. i was planning on starting off making a jacobs ladder then later on making a tesla coil after i have worked with high voltage a little bit longer are there any more uses for the high voltage transformer i have  

Question by MonstaM 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


1kv to 10kv?

What is the best and/or most simple circuit i can build to convert (300-1000)volts to (6-12)kilo-volts or higher? NB: the input will be output from camera circuit or mosquito swatter ,ranging (300 - 1000 kv )

Question by lu2a 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


High Current Power Supply

For a project totally nonrelated to my tesla coil I need a way of regulating a voltage down to 36 Volts at 8 amps. My transformer (or a bunch of transformers hooked together) is suppose to have an output of about 38 volts at 8 amps, yet the voltage (with no load) is actually around 60 volts... Basically I need a way of regulating this voltage. For saftey, lets say the max input is 70 volts and it should be able to handle 10 Amps. The output voltage should be 36.

Topic by guyfrom7up 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


How to protect OpAmp output?

Hi, I have an OpAmp which controlls the Gate of a MOSFET. When the MOSFET dies, sometimes the voltage it's running on (50V) somehow gets to stand over the OpAmp's output which destroys it. What's the best way to protect the OpAmp from the high voltages that get to stand over the output? Will a zener do the trick? Trigger transformer won't be easy to use here because It's a PWM controller so I need nice block waves. Diode on the output? but won't this be bad for delivering good current to the Gate? ... Any ideas?

Question by DELETED_Electorials 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


How can I start a old monitor flyback transformer using its own driver?

I found an old monitor which i am pretty sure that it is not broken and it works now i wana use the high voltage output using the monitor driver but i dont know form which part should i get the high voltage please help me i need this immiedtly thanks

Question by maaktabkh 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


High Frequency Alternators

Look at a picture of some arcs from a common spark-gap Tesla Coil, and then compare it to the arcs from a solid-state. What makes the two so different? The difference comes from the Solid-State Tesla Coil to operate in CW (constant wave) mode. This means that its power supply is uninterrupted, whereas in a spark-gap type, power is being switched on and off hundreds of times per second. If the output terminal of a CW coil doesn't have a brake out point, no corona or spark will occur. For anyone who's investigating wireless power transmission or Tesla's version of radio, this is a very helpful feature, since corona only wastes energy. And if it does have a brake out point, it can create some pretty interesting spark displays, as I mentioned above. An arc to a grounded object increases the current in the arc to such a point that it turns into a white-hot "flaming" discharge. All-in-all, a CW type coil is a pretty interesting kind to observe. But solid-states can be pretty difficult and annoying to build, and expensive as well. Since solid-state technology obviously was not available to Tesla, he found a different way to operate his coils in CW mode- a generator that was specially designed to produce radio-frequency power. He had originally created it for high-frequency arc lighting. Today, I have seen absolutely no coils run by a high frequency alternator. Of course, an alternator would be admittedly difficult to build, but since it could probably deliver more power than a solid-state coil, it would be worth it. Does anyone know if there are any companies that still make these alternators? Would anyone be interested in recreating it? Should we even bother? Thank you for listening. Peace!

Topic by ElectricUmbrella 9 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Parts for a high voltage supply?

I am trying to make a power 100-200kv power supply. I plan to do this by putting the positive output of a 7.5 kv flyback transformer through a cockroft walton multiplier. I have never done something like this before, so I am not completely sure about everything. I plan to make the multiplier with 14-15 stages. I thought that it would be okay to use 10 kv DC 1000pf ceramic disk capacitors in the multiplier. One thing I'm not sure about though is whether or not the flyback outputs DC or AC electricity. I assume it is DC since the input is rectified, but if it still is producing AC then I should probably use 15-20kv rated caps. The main thing is that I don't know what diodes to use. I thought I would use 1N4007 or something similar but the peak reverse voltage is only 1 kv. Does anyone know what type of diode to use, and where to get it at a reasonable price (below $2 per unit preferably)? 

Question by Higgs Boson 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


more output current with LM317 ?

Hi, for some time I have been wondering if I can make LM317 to output more than 1.5Amps. After many hours of searching I found that I can achieve this in 2 ways. The circuits are in LM317 datasheet which can be downloaded from here : http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317.pdf 1- By using a transistor with LM317 (page 16) . 2-By using several LM317 regulators in parallel and using TL080 (page 15). Second one seems better IF load is equally divided between regulators, it also has the benefit of producing less heat when  high currents are drawn. My question is: will the second circuit (LM317s in parallel) work and output more than 2Amps? is load equally divided between regulators in this design ? can I replace TL080 with another IC ? By the way, there is a circuit in page 12 called "tracking preregulator" , what is the purpose of this design ? PS. I know there are switching regulators which output more current, but I'd like to experiment with LM317.

Question by ehsan_zt 3 years ago  |  last reply 5 months ago


AtTiny85 port analog / digital setup order bug

/*How to configure port setup in correct order AtTiny? Bug in combiler or  what is wrong here? Circuitry here has two LEDs and one analog input.  LEDs are ON or OFF depending voltage of potentiometer. Simple code below makes digital output PB1 high impedance, so LED current is too low because voltage drops. If port configuration setup is made in other order port output works fine. */ /*                     ___     D5 PB5  1|o      |8  Vcc     D3 PB3  2|        |7  PB2 A1   Voltage measurement, potentiometer     D4 PB4  3|        |6  PB1 D1   --|>--|          GND  4| ___|5  PB0 D0   --|>--| */ byte led0 = PB0; byte led1 = PB1; byte potentiometer = A1; int voltage; /* It is important in which order pin configuration has been set. Wrong order causes PB1 to high impedance, low current, output. This must be combiler bug, I think. If port BP1 setup has been made using straight to register there is no problem in order. Any other analog input port and digital port combination works correctly. */ void setup() {   pinMode(led0, OUTPUT);   pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);  // Doesn't work if this is before pinMode(potentiometer, INPUT);   //DDRB &= ~(1 << DDB2); // Alternative working setup for led1 as output   pinMode(potentiometer, INPUT);    //pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);  // Works if this led1 setup is after pinMode(potentiometer, INPUT); } void analog_input() {   voltage = analogRead(potentiometer);   if (voltage < 500) {     digitalWrite(led0, HIGH);     digitalWrite(led1, LOW);   }   else   {     digitalWrite(led0, LOW);     digitalWrite(led1, HIGH);   } } void loop() {   analog_input(); }

Topic by PaavoM 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Comparator doesn't work as expected? Answered

Hello, I'm having a strange problem with the LT1016 (http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1016fc.pdf) When the -input is at 0.630V, and the +input is at 0.555V, and the comparator is fed with 5V, the outputs are because of some reason Q(inverted) = 2.10V and Q = 2.67V 2.67V for Q is just out of specifications (minimum High voltage of the pin should be 2.7V). 2.10V for Q(inverted) is not good as it should be less than 0.3V in it's low state. The "latch enable" pin is grounded. Both output pins are not connected. Why doesn't Q(inverted) go to 0.3V and Q to 3V, as the datasheet suggests? I tested this with another (also new) comparator; also an LT1016, and it behaves exactly the same. Pins: 1 V+ 5V 2 +IN 0.555V 3 -IN 0.630V 4 V- 0V 5 Latch Enable 0V 6 GND 0V 7 Qout 2.67V 8 Qout(inverted) 2.10V Any ideas?

Question by DELETED_Electorials 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


555 timer output hight and low? Answered

I just soldered up a 555 monostable circuit following an internet tutorial and for some reason the output seems to be both low and high. it can power a LED connected to the 0V & pin 3 and the 9V & pin 3. any ideas what might have happened?

Question by DrVonTrap 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Why not get high voltage by boosting 300V to say 2KV ?

Hi, I plan to build High Voltage of 4KV. The output current is very low (say 100uA). I intend to use this as focus voltage in a CRT application. Hence, I am exploring the ways to do so. I have seen people building high voltage (8-20KV) using transformer followed by voltage multipliers. Now a days, MOSFETs are available which can withstand voltage upto 4.5KV. So it should be possible to create boost converter which could boost 300V to 2KV. Then one can further boost the voltage using voltage multipliers. The input voltage of 300V is achieved by rectifying the line voltage of 220V/50Hz. Visiting internet, I do not see anybody doing so. Hence I wonder what could be wrong in doing something of this kind. Could somebody elaborate ? Regards, Hardeep

Question by hardeeps 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


DC supply for inverter

Hello. I need to figure out the component values for a "simple" high current power supply... and whether the component costs would even be feasible. I plan on buying a 3Kw output 12 DC inverter for use in Spain. I have several US devices that I don't want to run off a step-down transformer as running them at 50Hz instead of 60Hz will cause heating and eventual failure (I experimented with my Technics power amp, it got very hot and started to smell, then the output went way down... it's now on the "one of these days I'll open this up and take a look" pile). So, what I need to design is a 220 to 12 volt/300 amp unregulated supply. Ideas, anyone?

Topic by tsmyles 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


can someone help me put an output jack on my guitar amp? and help with my amp stand?

So im building a guitar amp stand made of wood. my future plans are to put up to 4 12-15" speakers in the stand. i dont have the speakers yet but i plan on getting them soon so i need a way to put an output jack on my amps. I had plans to simply attatch a 1/4" jack to the leads from the amp speaker but I now have second thoughts about this because of the fear of doing damage to them (i had the same problem with my computer speakers and I blew out the amp) so how else could this be done? amp 1 -- -guitar amp -19W -transister amp 2 -- -bass amp -35W -transister i dont know if this information helps at all i also want 3 separate channels 1 for each amp (i might possibly get another amp so i want to be prepared) if one is a bass and the other a guitar amp do i need bass speakers or will any do for the Bass i want to control the volume of each channel separately so i will need to know what kind of potentiometer to get and i want the sound to be decent if one amp is not in use at the time basicly i want the stand to act like a high proformance cabnet with volume control and separte channels can this be done? Ive drawn a design is the wireing correct or can it be beter

Question by fastcar123 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


mA on high intensity LED?

I bought a couple of red "Coast LED Lenser" LEDs from Frys (www.frys.com/product/4137893). They are in the standard 5mm package, but they give no forward voltage and the mA looks a bit high, being without a heatsink . If anyone can tell me if it looks correct and not a misprint, i would be very grateful, since coast doesn't have them on their website anymore. Oh yeah, while trying to light one I ran 8.5V@4.5A (PS2 adapter) accidentally (forgot the resistor) and it exploded loud pop instead of melting or burning out the junction like the 3mm LEDs from ebay, if that helps. The specs.   Intensity :                       10,000 mcd   Directivity:                      15* (degrees)   Operating Lifetime:      Up to 100,000 Hours   Wavelength:                  620nm   IF30:                               mA   IFP:                                 100 mA   VR:                                  5V   PD:                                  120 mW   Topr.:                              -30* to +100* (degrees) I'm guessing the forward voltage would be about 2.00V +/- .20V

Question by LuciferTengu 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


How to make a 1-1.5 volt voltage regulator at 15 amps?

Hi, I want to make a high current (15 or 16 amp) voltage regulator that outputs around 1 to 1.5 volts. Does anyone know how this could be done cheaply and easily? I've looked at the 15 amp schematic in the LM338 datasheet (http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm138.pdf  page 11), which uses 3 LM338s in parallel, but I'm pretty sure that takes the minimum output voltage to about 4v, way too much for me. I've looked at using 2n3055 transistor, but it seems like I'd need ridiculous heatsinking and probably fans to avoid thermalling out. I'm thinking of taking my power from an old PSU, 5 v rails, so not too much of a voltage drop, but it's hard to find stuff that can handle these kind of currents. I'm pretty much stumped right now, anyone got any ideas?

Topic by lolkent 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


how to test neon transformers? Answered

I got 4 neon transformers on a dumpster dive. 2 are rated 6000v and 2 are rated 7500v. my multimeter only goes to 750v ac. i have insulated tools (im and electrician) can i just arc the output wires? if anybody is interested in them to build something cool i might be persuaded to give them to you for shipping costs.

Question by dannemillerd 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


High voltage transformer current limiting?

I have modified a MOT to output 10kV as a Tesla coil power supply but when testing I found that there was a very low voltage (maybe 2kV). The primary resistance was measured at 0.2ohm much less than the inductive ballast I've used to current limit. Is the voltage being drawn away from the primary to the ballast? If so how can I resolve this (keep in mind even with the ballast it still needs further current limiting)?

Question by The MadScientist 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Question dealing with high volt capacitors in series

As we all know (at least most) you can get free cameras at places that recycle disposable cameras. After having my fun hooking then in parallel to attempt coil gun, or just melting holes in water-filled soda cans. But I wanted to try to hook some in series, so instead of 320V, i got 640. I know series adds up so both are fully charged to 320V, but heres my question. 1: Can they ever blow seeing that the output is 640 yet their rated 320? 2: If i discharged between then, can i have a greater chance of them exploding comparing to parallel hooked?

Topic by Killa-X 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


High Current measurement using Arduino?

I need to measure Current from a welding machine to make a alarm if it goes down below some level for ensuring better quality.The current normally set is of the order of 200A max with around 100V DC.Not sure if i could use some clamp-on meters and decode the values. Shunt resistors may be a better option. But to make a signal conditioner to convert the ma output will be a problem i guess..is there something i can do with Arduino.. any ideas guys....?

Question by chuppandi 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Is this the correct way to wire this transformer? Answered

I have a nice little 120VAC to 7.5KV transformer that used to call an air purifier its home, but I'm not sure how to wire it. I have some guesses, but I want to make sure I don't burn down my house so I am hoping to verify them with the help of the instructables community. Here they are:The black and white wires are where you connect the source of 120VACThe green and red wires are the high voltage outputs. (I'm guessing that since this was meant to be a negative ion generator, the green was just connected to ground)You can just connect this to a power outlet and have it run WITHOUT burning down the houseI am not sure if you need a fuse, though.Note : The transformer looks like http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/images/G1783B.jpg except it also has a green wire.

Question by Shagglepuff 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Write output on registery inside ESP8266

Could any one help me please? I have the following code to make MODBUS tcp/ip(its work good) the other issue in the code is ultrasonic sensor (trig on D1& echo on D2 and output distance on serial port)I want to write distance on one of memory register say (3). I use the command "digitalWrite(distance, MBHoldingRegister[3] )" its fail then I use analogWrite also fail what's the solution?#include #define trigPin D1#define echoPin D2#define analog_output D5float distance;long duration;int dataIn;int m = 0;int h = 0;int t = 0;const char* ssid = "MH_Ext";const char* password = "74375325";int ModbusTCP_port = 502;//////// Required for Modbus TCP / IP /// Requerido para Modbus TCP/IP /////////#define maxInputRegister 20#define maxHoldingRegister 20#define MB_FC_NONE 0#define MB_FC_READ_REGISTERS 3 //implemented#define MB_FC_WRITE_REGISTER 6 //implemented#define MB_FC_WRITE_MULTIPLE_REGISTERS 16 //implemented// MODBUS Error Codes//#define MB_EC_NONE 0#define MB_EC_ILLEGAL_FUNCTION 1#define MB_EC_ILLEGAL_DATA_ADDRESS 2#define MB_EC_ILLEGAL_DATA_VALUE 3#define MB_EC_SLAVE_DEVICE_FAILURE 4// MODBUS MBAP offsets//#define MB_TCP_TID 0#define MB_TCP_PID 2#define MB_TCP_LEN 4#define MB_TCP_UID 6#define MB_TCP_FUNC 7#define MB_TCP_REGISTER_START 8#define MB_TCP_REGISTER_NUMBER 10byte ByteArray[260];unsigned int MBHoldingRegister[maxHoldingRegister];//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////WiFiServer MBServer(ModbusTCP_port);void setup() {pinMode(14, OUTPUT);pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);Serial.begin(9600);delay(100) ;WiFi.begin(ssid, password);delay(100) ;Serial.println(".");while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) {delay(500);Serial.print(".");}MBServer.begin();Serial.println("Connected ");Serial.print("ESP8266 Slave Modbus TCP/IP ");Serial.print(WiFi.localIP());Serial.print(":");Serial.println(String(ModbusTCP_port));Serial.println("Modbus TCP/IP Online");}void loop() {distance = getDistance();Serial.println(distance);delay(1000);// Check if a client has connected // Modbus TCP/IPWiFiClient client = MBServer.available();if (!client) {return;}boolean flagClientConnected = 0;byte byteFN = MB_FC_NONE;int Start;int WordDataLength;int ByteDataLength;int MessageLength;// Modbus TCP/IPwhile (client.connected()) {if(client.available()){flagClientConnected = 1;int i = 0;while(client.available()){ByteArray[i] = client.read();i++;}client.flush();///// code here --- codigo aqui///////// Holding Register [0] A [9] = 10 Holding Registers Escritura///////// Holding Register [0] A [9] = 10 Holding Registers Writing/// Enable Output 14digitalWrite(14, MBHoldingRegister[14] );digitalWrite(distance, MBHoldingRegister[12] );//// end code - fin//// rutine Modbus TCPbyteFN = ByteArray[MB_TCP_FUNC];Start = word(ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_START],ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_START+1]);WordDataLength = word(ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_NUMBER],ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_NUMBER+1]);}// Handle requestswitch(byteFN) {case MB_FC_NONE:break;case MB_FC_READ_REGISTERS: // 03 Read Holding RegistersByteDataLength = WordDataLength * 2;ByteArray[5] = ByteDataLength + 3; //Number of bytes after this one.ByteArray[8] = ByteDataLength; //Number of bytes after this one (or number of bytes of data).for(int i = 0; i < WordDataLength; i++){ByteArray[ 9 + i * 2] = highByte(MBHoldingRegister[Start + i]);ByteArray[10 + i * 2] = lowByte(MBHoldingRegister[Start + i]);}MessageLength = ByteDataLength + 9;client.write((const uint8_t *)ByteArray,MessageLength);byteFN = MB_FC_NONE;break;case MB_FC_WRITE_REGISTER: // 06 Write Holding RegisterMBHoldingRegister[Start] = word(ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_NUMBER],ByteArray[MB_TCP_REGISTER_NUMBER+1]);ByteArray[5] = 6; //Number of bytes after this one.MessageLength = 12;client.write((const uint8_t *)ByteArray,MessageLength);byteFN = MB_FC_NONE;break;case MB_FC_WRITE_MULTIPLE_REGISTERS: //16 Write Holding RegistersByteDataLength = WordDataLength * 2;ByteArray[5] = ByteDataLength + 3; //Number of bytes after this one.for(int i = 0; i < WordDataLength; i++){MBHoldingRegister[Start + i] = word(ByteArray[ 13 + i * 2],ByteArray[14 + i * 2]);}MessageLength = 12;client.write((const uint8_t *)ByteArray,MessageLength);byteFN = MB_FC_NONE;break;}}}//===== getDistance - Custom Functionint getDistance() {// Clears the trigPindigitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);delayMicroseconds(2);// Sets the trigPin on HIGH state for 10 micro secondsdigitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);delayMicroseconds(10);digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);// Reads the echoPin, returns the sound wave travel time in microsecondsduration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);// Calculating the distancedistance = duration * 0.034 / 2; // distance in cmreturn distance;}

Question by methaq_ali 2 months ago


CFL Singing Arc Answered

Can you use a clf ballest to power a singing arc. My idea is to connect the 1kohm side of an audio output transformer to the 120vac input of a cfl and connect the other side to a cd player. I will turn the ac to dc by putting in a 1amp diode. so will it work? Also will a commom 3kv cfl work with dc? Please Answer! Please  Answer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Question by electricfan 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Am just wondering if a high input to my subwoofer will spoil it?

My ibm comp spoilt its internal speaker. i think due to its high out power(its so loud). i use the same output to feed the sub woofer. i wondered if the high output will spoil it

Question by mauricewarebee 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


240v to 75kv transformer, shell type? Double winding? Need sum help please!!!!!

Hello! So I found this transformer the other day, it's a 240v to 75kv here where it's gets interesting, it's a shell type, with two separate transformers I'm guessing. It has a input for 240v on each end, it has 1-5 taps but 1 is not used 2 is phase 3 is neutral 4 is earth and 5 is not used. It only has condanuity between 2 and 3 on 240v side. On the high voltage side it has only one output and no condanuity to the core or anywhere, So I'm confused. I'm wanting to make it in to a high voltage Jacobs ladder setup. I have a varic that is 240v and goes from 1v up to 280v on the wiper side it is motor driven. Can I arc between the two hv posts? Also both transformers are have the same phase in parallel. Please help me!!!!! Thanks! 

Topic by nz dude 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


high capacity joule thief/dc-dc converter

I'm trying to make a dc-dc converter with the following characteristics: Output = 5V regulated at up to 30mA = 150mW Input 1V (or lower) from a slightly flat AAA. Assuming a pessimistic circuit efficiency of 50%, then the input current would need to be 150mW / 0.5 / 1v =  300mA which I think a AAA is capable of supplying. I'm using a variation of "led torch circuit 2" from http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/LEDTorchCircuits/LEDTorchCircuits-P1.html, but I've replaced with the 1n4148 with a schottky diode and replaced the 2 LEDs and 29R resistor with a 5k6 and 1k resistor respectively; this should limit the output of the circuit to just under 5v. I have a 150R resistor to provide a 30mA load to the circuit. When the input is 2.4V, the output is 4.62V which is close enough to 5v for me.  But if I decrease the input voltage to 1.14V, then the output voltage falls to 2.7V which is not enough. I have tried half a dozen hand wound transformers with various turns ratios, wire thicknesses and shapes (slug and toroid) but am unable to achieve 5v out (at 30mA) from 1v in. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to adjust, or perhaps a better circuit?

Topic by GrotBox 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


What determines the max output of a Nitrogen TEA laser?

I was thinking about building a TEA laser, using nitrogen from the air. Like many others, I want it to have a really high (peak) output level (high enough to ionise air). What's the limiting factor for the amount of power I can put into it? Does the air "saturate" or something when there's too much current going between the electrodes? How come you can't connect it directly to the HV power source, but you have to have a spark gap/capacitor to fire it? So would it work on AC? Thanks

Question by .Unknown. 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


How does this CCFL inverter work? Answered

Hello, I have this CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) inverter from a scanner. it powers the scanner light. That's the schematic, but I can't see all the components very good, I'm sure about everything that's noted in the schematic, but I don't know the value of that capacitor between both collectors. It's that brown one from the picture. So the question is: How does this circuit work? I'm still trying to figure out how the transistors switch, it's really weird, because when I try recreating this on my breadbord it doesn't work. And why is the first coil shorted out? What I do know about this is that it has an output voltage (very low current, serveral micro amps) of 2 to 3kV. It also works at a very high frequency, about 30kHz I think, and it has a ferrite core transformer. The primary windings are very thick, and there are about 10 turns. the secondary has Many windings, a few thousand. The primary current is limited by the frequency (Xl = 2*Pi*f*L) so high frequency means high resistance of the coil, and that means a low current. now  how does the switching process work? and what's the use of the brown capacitor?

Question by DELETED_Electorials 8 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Can a fluorescent light ballast be used to drive a Tesla Coil?

I'm thinking of the newer 'magnetic' high-frequency ones, or maybe even a CFL (https://www.instructables.com/id/MAKE-A-HIGH-VOLTAGE-SUPPLY-IN-5-MINUTES/). Of course a ~15 Watt CFL isn't going to output very much though.

Question by PhahQ 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Is it possible to wire computer PSU's in series to achieve a higher voltage? If so, how can it be done?

I want to make bench top PSU's out of old computer power supplies and I want a 24v output as well as the typical outputs, but I don't want to put a transformer on it that could only handle so much current (I might want to run some bigger motors off it)

Question by The Ideanator 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Microwave Oven Transformer Stack

This is my Microwave Oven Transformer stack. It is currently current limited using a heater. There is approximately 10 36 watt 4' fluorescent tubes in a string around my garage that I am lighting with the MOT stack .My MOT stack contains 4 Microwave Oven Transformers connected with their outputs in series and their inputs in parallel. They are mounted on plastic cutting boards. I am using threaded rod to hold the layers in place while the PVC pipe covers the threaded rod and it also supports some of the weight. The output of this is approximately 8800VAC at 350mA The Input voltage is 240VAC Thanks for looking, Please comment and remember to rate if you like it! Just say if you want any pics of a certain thing, e.g. the MOT stack arcing to wood/metal etc. (I will try to get more pics of it arcing soon but it is hard to use a camera that has like a second delay before it takes the actual pic from when you press the button, stupid camera) ********************************************************************************************************** Edit The new pictures are of an arc between two carbon electrodes. The other pictures are of 12 fluorescent tubes connected in series but arranged in parallel so you can see them all

Topic by thermoelectric 9 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Arduino Coding help? Answered

I need some guidance on how to write some Arduino code. The physical side is an Arduino mega ADK connected to some buttons and leds. On the code side, I modified the button sketch. I am stuck on how to add multiple buttons. in the void loop. I just need someont to show me how to add 1 after that i can figure out how to add the rest. Thanks,  Kaden const int button1 = 24;     // the number of the pushbutton pin const int button2 = 25; const int button3 = 26; const int button4 = 27; const int button5 = 28; const int Bucket1 = 2; const int Bucket2 = 3; const int Bucket3 = 4; const int Bucket4 = 5; const int Bucket5 = 6; const int Bucket6 = 7; const int Bucket7 = 8; const int Bucket8 = 9; const int Bucket9 = 10; const int Bucket10 = 11; const int Bucket11 = 12; const int Bucket12 = 13; int buttonState1 = 0;         // variable for reading the pushbutton status int buttonState2 = 0; int buttonState3 = 0; int buttonState4 = 0; int buttonState5 = 0; void setup() {   // initialize the LED pin as an output:   pinMode(Bucket1, OUTPUT);   // declare LED strip pin as output   pinMode(Bucket2, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket3, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket4, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket5, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket6, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket7, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket8, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket9, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket10, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket11, OUTPUT);   pinMode(Bucket12, OUTPUT);   // initialize the pushbutton pin as an input:   pinMode(button1, INPUT);   pinMode(button2, INPUT);   pinMode(button3, INPUT);   pinMode(button4, INPUT);   pinMode(button5, INPUT); } void loop() {     buttonState1 = digitalRead(button1);   buttonState2 = digitalRead(button2);   buttonState3 = digitalRead(button3);   buttonState4 = digitalRead(button4);   buttonState5 = digitalRead(button5);   // check if the pushbutton is pressed.   // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:   if (buttonState1 == HIGH) {     // turn LED on:   digitalWrite(Bucket1, HIGH);  // turn LED strip on when button is pressed   digitalWrite(Bucket2, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket3, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket4, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket5, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket6, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket7, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket8, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket9, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket10, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket11, HIGH);   digitalWrite(Bucket12, HIGH);   }   else {     // turn LED off:   digitalWrite(Bucket1, LOW);  // turn LED strip on when button is pressed   digitalWrite(Bucket2, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket3, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket4, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket5, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket6, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket7, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket8, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket9, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket10, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket11, LOW);   digitalWrite(Bucket12, LOW);   } }

Question by FarmerKJS 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


HELP - Arduino - "Expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token"

I have only just received this Arduino UNO and am trying to teach myself the language. I thought it wouldn't be that bad as I am already familiar with python, however, I was getting loads of errors (most of which I have managed to solve from searching through forums) and have landed on this one. I get this error - "exit status 1 - expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token"This is my code...int ledPin = 0; //declares all different pins for different segments of displayint ledPin1 = 1; int ledPin2 = 2; int ledPin3 = 3; int ledPin4 = 4; int ledPin5 = 5; int ledPin6 = 6; int ledPin7 = 7;int inPin = 5; //declares analogRead pinint alphaValue = analogRead(inPin); map(alphaValue, 1, 1023, 1, 4) //maps 1-1023 to 1-4void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //declares pin types pinMode(1, OUTPUT); pinMode(2, OUTPUT); pinMode(3, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, INPUT); #define low digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); //defines 'low' digitalWrite(ledPin1, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin2, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin3, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin4, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin5, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin6, LOW); digitalWrite(ledPin7, LOW); }void loop() { // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: if(alphaValue == 1){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); } if (alphaValue == 2){ low digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin2, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 3){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); } if(alphaValue == 4){ low digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin1, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin5, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin4, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin6, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin7, HIGH); digitalWrite(ledPin3, HIGH); } }

Topic by LOU_DEW747 6 months ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


Help with building a tesla coil? Answered

I want to build a tesla coil, but I want to verify with the instructables community that it won't blow up, burn down my house, turn into skynet, etc. Here's my plaaaauuuuuuhn: For the transformer, I'll be using an old negative ion generator thing that takes in 120VAC and outputs 7.5kv(pic). For the primary, I'll use old speaker wire in  a cone shape (possibly using acrylic). For the secondary, I'll use 32- gauge magnet wire (pic). And for the spark gap, I'll use two bolts in a box, possibly with a computer fan cooling it. And for the capacitors, I'll just use an array of Leyden jars. My questions: 1. What diameter should the coil form be? I have some random white tubing which has an OD of 1/2 inches, 1/2 PVC piping (which actually has an OD of 7/8 inches), and 3/4 inch PVC piping. And is there a better alternative to these? 2. Should I use chokes on the input/output of my transformer? For those, I think I'll just wrap a bunch of wire around a pen. 3. Should I varnish it? 4. How powerful will the EM be from this thing? Exploding computers aren't that good. If I have made any errrors, please tell me.

Question by Shagglepuff 9 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Flyback transformer problem?

I have recently dismantled an old CRT monitor i have had lying around for ages to get the flyback transformer. I have been trying to get the correct pins to using methods found on the internet none of which have seemed to work i have found what should be the primary coil and have applied the current and placed the high voltage output in front of each pin to try and find the high voltage ground, this has not worked so i have applied the current to all of the pins in every combination and still i am unable to get it to work. Please help me.

Question by Hav0c 7 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


high voltage power supply inputs with a relay??

Hi, I Have a high voltage power supply (5kv) its basically  a flyback driver with a flyback transformer. there's no documents on it. here's my problem. It take 24v DC  and it goes through some sort of weird relay (http://www.selectronic.fr/includes_selectronic/pdf/Siemens/DS2E_S.pdf) and the 8th pin is connected to ground 9th pin seems to be the output. I just cant get it to work. I'm really horrible with analog electronics. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Question by mman1506 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


feedback from potentiometer to aurduino to slow?

So this is the code i use but i would like it to be reading the value of the potentiometer after each number appears on the 7 digit display  i put in the serial read to tell if my poteniometer was working correctly and just because it is fun to watch the numbers fly by. const int l1=2; const int l2=3; const int l3=4; const int l4=5; const int l5=6; const int l6=7; const int l7=8; void setup () {   Serial.begin(9600);   pinMode(l1, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l2, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l3, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l4, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l5, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l6, OUTPUT);   pinMode(l7, OUTPUT);   }   void loop() {     int dt = analogRead(A0);     delay(1);     Serial.println(dt);      digitalWrite(l5, HIGH);      digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);      delay(dt);      digitalWrite(l5, LOW);      digitalWrite(l3, LOW);      delay(dt);      digitalWrite(l6,HIGH);       digitalWrite(l5,HIGH);       digitalWrite(l4,HIGH);       digitalWrite(l1,HIGH);       digitalWrite(l2,HIGH);      delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6,LOW);       digitalWrite(l5,LOW);       digitalWrite(l4,LOW);       digitalWrite(l1,LOW);       digitalWrite(l2,LOW);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l5, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l2, HIGH);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, LOW);        digitalWrite(l5, LOW);        digitalWrite(l4, LOW);        digitalWrite(l3, LOW);        digitalWrite(l2, LOW);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l7, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l5, HIGH);         digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);         delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l7, LOW);        digitalWrite(l4, LOW);        digitalWrite(l5, LOW);         digitalWrite(l3, LOW);         delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l7, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l2, HIGH);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, LOW);        digitalWrite(l7, LOW);        digitalWrite(l4, LOW);        digitalWrite(l3, LOW);        digitalWrite(l2, LOW);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l7, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l1, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l2, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, LOW);        digitalWrite(l7, LOW);        digitalWrite(l4, LOW);        digitalWrite(l1, LOW);        digitalWrite(l2, LOW);        digitalWrite(l3, LOW);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l5, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l6, LOW);        digitalWrite(l5, LOW);        digitalWrite(l3, LOW);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l1, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l2, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l3, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l4, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l5, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l6, HIGH);        digitalWrite(l7, HIGH);        delay(dt);        digitalWrite(l1, LOW);        digitalWrite(l2, LOW);        digitalWrite(l3, LOW);        digitalWrite(l4, LOW);        digitalWrite(l5, LOW);        digitalWrite(l6, LOW);        digitalWrite(l7, LOW);        delay(dt);   }

Question by harry88 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Reefer meets High Power LEDs (looking for help)

Well this is my second post and I am a bit more learned in the ways of LED circuits from many of your posts.Objective: Create a high light output LED array that will peak at around 16,000K for growing coral for reef aquariums.Primary strategy: connect 10 or more Luxeon III stars in seriesPreferred requirements: Energy efficient, Low Heat emittance, Needs to peak out at the appropriate spectrum for the coral ( I have that covered just by changing the ratio of cool whites to royal blue Luxeon III's)At the moment I a just going for a simple on/off, later i would like to employ a form of automated dimming so that it fades on and off so there is not such a sharp on off with the LED's. So far I have a circuit that i plan on modeling my LED array after since it was readily available for me to dissect. The following is an LED array. I know that there is a diode rectifier bridge built in there and a smoothing capasitor but there are to components i do not recognize they are connected at the positive and negative ends of the circuit. One is the Yellow (doohickey with part # 684j 250) component attached to the positive lead and the other is a clear (fuse/resistor hybrid) component next to the resistor on the board.https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGX/D7E2/FBQ33XYA/FGXD7E2FBQ33XYA.MEDIUM.jpghttps://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGX/D7E2/FBQ33XYA/FGXD7E2FBQ33XYA.MEDIUM.jpgI was able to draw the circuit and it seems pretty straight forward but I just need to know if I will be able to spec the appropriate components to operate 10 leds in series (Each LED operates with a Vf=3.9 V and I= 1000mA ) they will need a supply of more then 40V DC.Any help or dialogue I can get the more the better and the more I will learnIn addition I looked at Dan's high power constant current but not sure how well it would operate under the conditions that I have specifiedPrimary LED's in use for the Reef light: (note all are stars)LED part # Color Type Vf Amps LuxLXHL-LW3C cool white Lambertian 3.9 1000mA 80lumensLXHL-LR3C Royal blue Lambertian 3.9 1000mA 445mWLumensLXHL-MW1D cool white " " 3.42 350 mA 45 LumensLXHL-MRRD Royal Blue "" "" 3.42 350 mA 220 mWLumensThere was little to no difference between the 700 mA series and the 1000mA series so I did not list themI look forward to all your helpTom

Topic by Aquatope 11 years ago


Help with sketch, and a safety question? Answered

The model I'm building calls for 13 LED's and fiber optics running from about 6 more LED's. I have managed to get them all running on one arduino and breadboard, will this be safe? The arduino will run on a mains adapter and has a pot for flashing speed, a pot for brightness, and an on/off switch. After lots of trial an error and a lot of luck I have the other LED's acting just as I want. But I am having trouble getting 11 and 12 to stop flashing, any ideas? int sensorValue = 0; //make a variable where you can store incoming //analog values void setup(){ pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //tell arduino what you'll be using these pins pinMode(11, OUTPUT); // for (output). pinMode(10, OUTPUT); pinMode(9, OUTPUT); pinMode(8, OUTPUT); pinMode(7, OUTPUT); pinMode(6, OUTPUT); pinMode(5, OUTPUT); pinMode(4, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); //initialize serial } void loop(){ //we put the code we want executed in a loop Serial.print("sensor = " ); //sends what's in quotes via serial Serial.println(sensorValue); //sends our variable (sensorValue) //via serial digitalWrite(12,HIGH); // lights the led digitalWrite(11,HIGH); digitalWrite(8,HIGH); digitalWrite(4, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(4, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(6, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(6, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(5, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(5, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(7, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(7, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(5, HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(5, LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(10,HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(10,LOW); delay(15); digitalWrite(9,HIGH); sensorValue = analogRead(0); delay(sensorValue + 25); digitalWrite(9,LOW); delay(15); }

Question by lifeofB 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


coMBINING ARDUINO SKETCHES

Every thing is okay except line follow command ,,,when i say line follow it only goes forward but does not follow line my code is String voice; int LS=10; int RS=9; int LED=13; char getstr; int in1=3; int in2=4; int in3=5; int in4=6; int ENA=2; int ENB=7; long duration, distance; int trigPin=A0; int echoPin=A1; int buzzer=8; void forward() {   digitalWrite(ENA,HIGH);   digitalWrite(ENB,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in1,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in2,LOW);   digitalWrite(in3,LOW);   digitalWrite(in4,HIGH);   } void back() {   digitalWrite(ENA,HIGH);   digitalWrite(ENB,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in1,LOW);   digitalWrite(in2,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in3,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in4,LOW);   } void left() {   digitalWrite(ENA,HIGH);   digitalWrite(ENB,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in1,LOW);   digitalWrite(in2,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in3,LOW);   digitalWrite(in4,HIGH);   } void right() {   digitalWrite(ENA,HIGH);   digitalWrite(ENB,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in1,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in2,LOW);   digitalWrite(in3,HIGH);   digitalWrite(in4,LOW);   } void stop() {   digitalWrite(ENA,LOW);   digitalWrite(ENB,LOW);   } void on() {   digitalWrite(LED,HIGH); } void off() {   digitalWrite(LED,LOW); } void line(){ if(digitalRead(LS) && digitalRead(RS))     // Stop   { stop();   }     if(!(digitalRead(LS)) && digitalRead(RS))     // right   { right();   }     if(digitalRead(LS) && !(digitalRead(RS)))     // Turn left   { left();   }     if(!(digitalRead(LS)) && !(digitalRead(RS)))     // Forward   {     forward();   } } void setup() {   pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);   Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(LS, INPUT);   pinMode(RS, INPUT);   pinMode(in1,OUTPUT);   pinMode(in2,OUTPUT); pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);   pinMode(in3,OUTPUT);   pinMode(in4,OUTPUT);   pinMode(ENA,OUTPUT);   pinMode(ENB,OUTPUT); pinMode(buzzer, OUTPUT); } void loop() {   while (Serial.available()){ //Check if there is an available byte to read      delay(10); //Delay added to make thing stable     char c = Serial.read(); //Conduct a serial read     if (c == '#') {break;} //Exit the loop when the # is detected after the word     voice += c; //Shorthand for voice = voice + c   }   if (voice.length() > 0){     if(voice == "*go ahead"){       forward();       }     else if(voice == "*go back"){       back();       }     else if(voice == "*turn right") {       right();     }     else if(voice == "*turn left") {       left();     }     else if(voice == "*light on") {       on();     }     else if(voice == "*light off") {       off();     }         else if(voice == "*stop") {       stop();     } else if(voice == "*line follow") { line();           }       voice=""; //Reset the variable after initiating   } }

Topic by BibekP4 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


which flyback transformer should i get? irf 644?

I am working an making a singing ark and is basically 555 timer circuitry powering it. which flyback should i chose to build it? i heard vintage ones are great but i dont know. i know some of them have a built in rectifiers. will that make the output suck? i have the circuit im using below. i do have an ignition coil at hand. will that work? or is the resonant frequency way off? can i replace the irf 644 with a higher power chip? if so (i know i can) can you give me the specs of them? i found an irf 740 that if 400V at 10A. will this work? is the amps too little?   i would like to get most of all the stuff i need from Radioshack thank you in advance.

Question by -max- 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Need pre wired high power leds

I am in need of a pre wired High Power Led board. Something like a Cree XR-E Q2 Emitter. I would like to find a supplier that I could buy pre built/ wired boards (plug and play) to install in a small lighting package. Ideally I would like to find a pre built light that I could incorporate into my project. I need a high output 12v white light, that I can make a reverse light out of. I am hoping to market the product so a supplier over a retail option would be best. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance  

Topic by returnforservice 8 years ago


Cockcroft–Walton High Voltage Power Supply

Greetings! I have wanted to begin experimenting with high voltages recently and have already collected a series of projects that I would like to conduct. The only issue is that of my high voltage power supply. I have not the funds or resources to buy into a NST or MOT system and ended up looking for alternatives. I at first tried the ignition coil route that ended in failure and have now moved on. My question is, will a Cockcroft–Walton generator be able to run say, a tesla coil, jacob's ladder, or even a farnsworth fusor given that the necessary voltage is outputted from the multiplier.  Kind of between a rock and a hard place here, Thanks anyway!

Topic by SidC1 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Low Voltage High Current power supply

I am going to start off by saying I have no electrical backround, I can solder and am very mechanically inclined. I am wanting to use these as a laser power supply. I have a 24v 50a, a 48v 25a , and am getting a 5v 175a power supplies. I would like to do the voltages and amps adjustable with a potentiometer to go from 0- to their rated output. I see voltage regulators all over but they arent made for high current and usually dont make the current adjustable. How could I do this? Most laser diodes these would be used for are 2.2-3.5 volts.

Question by wby300 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago